UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 739

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 AlanLittle 16 May 2021

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...     also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

And for those looking for more theoretical background, there's a useful subject index of published research studies on the Beta Angel project. Not sure how actively maintained if is though. https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory/

In this week's Psyche Vid, Adam Ondra enjoys some of his local lockdown esoterica: youtube.com/watch?v=38SXvVY3OD0&

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_738-7346...

AJM - "I took miniAJM for his first trip to the indoor wall. He had a great time" Your days of being the strongest climber in the household are numbered now. Just as well you managed to get a good bouldering result in first.

Ally Smith - in the words of the prophet Dave Mac, keeping at least a couple of maintenance level sessions going in the face of other commitments will always pay off in the long run.

BarneyLoosemore - now that sounds like an excellent Pembroke trip. Brazen Buttress is high on my to-do list too if I ever make it down that way again.

biscuit - frustrating when the head is getting in the way of realising the physical gains from lockdown training. I'm sure you have the self-awareness, experience and general nous to get past it.

Liam P - I wouldn't worry too much about whether or not 6a onsight is "good" or not - you are where you are. For me personally, I found from that level up to about 6c or so was relatively easy to progess by mostly trying to onsight things, only "redpointing" things second go that I hadn't quite onsighted. Progression from there into the 7's required learning some systematic projecting tactics and abandoning the idea of trying to onsight everything.

planetmarshall - Lattice Lite *and* TFTNA benchmarks? Both at the same time sounds ambitious if you're actually going to try to improve on both fronts rather than just maintain one of them. Do you do the Alpine Combine uphill speed test on a box or a real hill? I find the results between the two wildly inconsistent.

Rebecca Ting - how many VS's is the Stanage VS Challenge? All of 'em? All starred?

Roadrunner6 - alarming tales of bad things happening to others - be careful with your taper! 

Ross Barker - top marks for dodgy weather determination. I can't help thinking too many people give up too easily in the face of questionable weather these days, given the number & quality of climbing walls that are (usually, outside lockdown) available as an alternative

Si dH - that does indeed sound like a solid training week. Hope this week's rest/deload brings a performance explosion!

Somerset swede basher - nice wall sessions, shame about the car. Must be the first all indoor week for you for a long time?

the sheep - good use of the reopened pool. I remember supporting a mate of mine on a tri down your way, years ago, that started with an open water swim in Stoney Cove. Is that the one you're doing?

Tom Green - hope the weather/work circumstances have been better this week for the "take advantage of working in Pembroke" strategy.

Tyler - another dodgy weather outdoor determination winner!

AlanLittle - progress is progress on the proj, even if it is taking a lot longer than you thought it would back in November. 

 Si dH 16 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan.  I had a fairly good rest this week. I did a full session on Tuesday but otherwise just some flexibility work on Friday and a very low-volume fingerboard session today, so I'm feeling fairly well recovered.

M: rest

T: another evening session at the Hangar. The three whites (v5-6ish) in the first re-set area that I looked at all had cruxes on small crimps and I spent most of the session getting spanked on them. Flashed another white that was more shouldery and less fingery.

W: rest

T: rest

F:  hip mobility routine

S: rest

S: 5 x 10-second hangs on my portable crusher board with bodyweight + 10kg. (This board seems a bit more friendly on my bad finger in a half crimp position than the lattice edge or smaller beastmaker holds, I'm not sure why but I have never found it caused me any problems warming up outside, so decided to try it at home.) I'm using a max hang protocol but sub-max weight as I'm being very careful with the finger, I'm just hoping I can gradually build strength up without setting the injury back.

I've made an updated plan for the next few weeks, starting at the wall again on Tuesday.

Si

 AJM 16 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> how many VS's is the Stanage VS Challenge? All of 'em? All starred?

It's all the starred VSs from the 1989 (?) guidebook, so 36 spread across the edge iirc.

 AJM 16 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> AJM - "I took miniAJM for his first trip to the indoor wall. He had a great time" Your days of being the strongest climber in the household are numbered now. Just as well you managed to get a good bouldering result in first.

Thanks Alan - was pleased with both results, both in rock and on plastic. As long as he is generous at sharing beta and putting clips in and allows me to live my dreams vicariously through him that’s fine

Not my highest energy week. Some useful admin done, but frustrating showery forecast left me unable to plan and it just bled into my motivation to do other stuff a bit. I definitely prefer certainties - either dry or wet - over a never ending stream of scattered but sometimes heavy showers and the appearing and disappearing illusions of weather windows they tend to create. Certainly could have done more, especially easier things which combine more easily with climbing and are therefore less sensitive to the vagaries of planning for the outdoors. Today was good though, rescued the week with a good plastic session.

Monday - administrative evening #1 - sorting out roof box and bike carriers so that we can fit all the pads as well as all our clutter when we go on holiday. Not training, but supporting long term gainz nevertheless

Tuesday - administrative evening #2 - faffing trying to make plans for weekend away next week

Wednesday - nothing. Lethargy and ennui. Roof box arrived, which obviously then poses the question of where on earth one stores these things (assuming I don’t want it on the car the whole time).

Thursday - finally beat the lethargy and did a short antagonist session in the evening

Friday - nothing, busy at work, resting whilst holding out hope for a brief weather window on Saturday morning

Saturday - the weather window was there, but after a terrible night with microAJM we were too tired for me to be able to escape. Managed a short walk with my parents, miniAJM, and microAJM in the rucksack, out near Swanage.

Sunday - took miniAJM to the wall again. I felt like I got a lot more done this time, more of an actual session whereas last time was more playing about and supporting miniAJM. Flashed some hard stuff, did a few things in 2-6 goes, plus some easier things. I got back on the board, and was reminded that I climb it so much like a weak sport climber - if I am not sideways on I am lost! More regular access to a steep board would probably be so good for me - big moves on steep ground are not my forte!

OP AlanLittle 16 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

STG: Weight back below 85kg. 
    Start Couch To 5k. 
    New Project STG: link from the third clip to the end of the hard climbing on Dookie.
MTG: Complete one of my local (Zellerwand) 7a projects - short, sharp power endurance. Complete Couch to 5k
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Rest day. Half an hour stretching
T: An hour walk/jog in the woods. Had the beginnings of a slight calf twinge this time, unlike the last couple of times, but managed to back off sufficiently to avoid it becoming a full blown strain.

W: Climbing Wall Reopening Day! Given a (correct) dismal forecast for tomorrow, I decided to head to Boulderwelt and enjoy some actual company and movement for an evening. Wonderful. Skin stopped play after an hour or so.

T: Rainy bank holiday hillwalking, Kramerspitz. First time in ages I've worn a hardshell in anger for anything except scootering in thunderstorms on Kalymnos.

F: Möhren - headed out to a venue that we thought would dry quickly after all the heavy rain on the last couple of days, only to discover that a quarry with horizontal breaks full of slimy mud was not the ideal choice. Ran laps on a couple of nice easy cracks, and slithered my way up a damp & muddy 6b second go as the crowning triumph of the day. Happy to be out.

S: Took delivery of a copy of Overcoming Gravity. I've had my eye on this for a while but shied off because of the expense. But lockdown has now made it abundantly clear that merely owning a few kettlebells and thinking "I really should do some general strength & conditioning" is insufficient motivation. I need some structure and some goals to aim at. Hoping the book might give me that; lots of reading to do first though.

S: Wall, Thalkirchen in the afternoon. The absence of the forecast thundery showers in the morning made this feel very much like a cop out. But at least I was able to start putting some of the ideas from my coaching session a few weeks ago into practice.

All in all a frustrating long weekend in which the weather was nowhere near as bad as forecast and I could have got more done given more determined partners. Unfortunately of my two current determined partners, one had family commitments and one is injured. Plans are coming together though for a Frankenjura expedition on the next long weekend in three weeks.
 

 Liam P 16 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan. Top tips on my quest to baseline my sports grade - the plan is to get lots of Grade 6 mileage in this summer.

I received Overcoming Gravity as a Christmas Present a few years ago and have dipped in and out of it. It’s a great book that I have definitely benefited from strength wise. You’ll have to join the Parallette Club!

Which leads me to my Parallette Saga...

M:

  • Parallette Tuck Planche Pulses 5x 6
  • Parallette Tuck Planche Holds 5x 6s
  • Parallette L Sit 5x 10s

T:

  • Managed a V4 during my warm-up. First one since I started back at the wall and back to my high water mark.
  • Tried Campus Ladders and my right arm from the shoulder down felt really tweakey. Suspect I got a bit excited and overdid the Parallettes so my rotator cuff isn’t happy.
  • 2.5 laps of the 5a Circuit Board (60 moves) confirmed it wasn’t getting any better so called it early.

W:

  • Rested the tweakey right shoulder

T:

  • More rest for the tweakey right shoulder, followed by a long drive to Gogarth and a sleepless night in the van for the only weather-window of the weekend...

F:

A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)

Finally! I didn’t make the mistake of psyching myself out on the Promontory this time and just abbed straight in - still intimidating though! High-tide start, led P2&4. I can’t say anything that hasn’t already been said, but what a line. P2 felt just on the cusp of my comfort zone (5a?) to be challenging, P3 a romp on flakes, and P4 a joyous jug haul in an amazing position. Feels like a bit of a breakthrough route for me which I’m psyched about.

Followed by a weekend of more resting, beer, and reminiscing on a great climb!

Post edited at 20:18
 Tyler 16 May 2021
In reply to everyone:

I’m looking for a partner to climb with in the Lakes bank holiday weekend if anyone is in a similar position. We’re staying in St John’s in the Vale so north or east preferred. 

 Tyler 16 May 2021
In reply to Liam P:

Glad it lived up to expectations! It really is something special. 

 Tyler 16 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

The indoor sessions will do you more good in the long run Alan, don’t fall into the trap of trying to enjoy yourself!

T: Depot - I knew it! After easily dispatching three purples last time word must have got out as tonight all purples were stripped! Failed to make much progress on the reds I didn’t manage last time (think I did two of them).

F: Depot- only had 90 mins, cursory glance at the new purples confirmed the previous set was an aberration. Nothing for me here. New blacks so did all of them and felt quite tired by the end. Had a play in the big new roof but I’m angles the skin. 
S: Drove 7.5 hours to the north of Scotland, we had originally intended to come on Monday but the forecast suddenly improved. 
S: An Teallach Ridge (Summer) (Grade-3). Amazing scenery, lucky with the weather. Worried about my ankle (some weird graunching on the way up but a few pain killers later it disappeared although sore no). Introduced Fi to short roping, she did well (she didn’t get scared) but some of our antics would not be welcomed by les Compagnie des Guides!

Now eating Pot Noodle in the van and planning walks up Suilven and Stac Pollaidh 

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan, greatful for the continued stating stint. Yeah, first week with no outdoor session in ages... but certainly not the first week with no ticks! In need of a week that was lighter on the elbows this week so I just did 2 climbing sessions. 

Mon and Tues. Busy at work/rest.

Wed. Late evening session at Roche Abbey. Its swimming night for the kids so didn't leave Sheffield til 7ish. Nice it's light til gone 9pm now though. First time at Beef Buttress so worked from the easiest stuff upwards. Did a couple of 7As and a couple of 7A+s. Plenty to go back for.

Thurs. 9km run.

Fri. 5km cycle to collect the car from the garage. 3x10 press ups.

Sat. Child free day! 2km swim with Mrs. Swede then long (15-18km?) walk. Up Ringing Roger, round the plateau and down Chapel Gate.

Sun. My elbows had been grumbing after 3 high volume sessions last week and another on Wed so keep everything at bodyweight and it felt OK. 6xrepeaters, 3x10 slow shoulder shrugs, 5x5 on the min pull ups, 3x10 press ups. 

Post edited at 21:17
 Ross Barker 16 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Ross Barker - top marks for dodgy weather determination.

Cheers for statting as usual! I had a whole week free and I'd be damned if I didn't get out at least once!

Had a decent week as it goes and some interesting introspection about my finger injury:

Finger is still being a little bitch about healing so I've contacted a local hand specialist to see if they can help - if they can't I guess Sheffield climbing clinic is the next closest, unless anyone can think of any others? Preferably near Shropshire!

Last Week:

M - 4x20s 10kg rehab hangs. Will try doing 6 sets next time as I think a bit of volume will help get more yummy blood into my fingers.

T - Rest

W - Gym session. Last session was June 2020, last session before that was March 2020, so I'm a bit rusty on plastic, but the biggest shock was how easy it is to keep pulling on and getting loads of volume in, forearms had a low-level pump the whole session. Played it safe and jumped off a few problems, but was happy to climb a couple of things up to about 7A if they weren't too fingery or could be open-handed.

T - 50 pushups.

F - Rest.

S - Boardroom. Similar to W, had a near constant low-level pump on the go. Fell off lots and didn't annoy the finger too greatly. Contrast baths before bed, I experienced great success with this healing a pulley injury 2 years ago, but they take a level of discipline that I appear to be lacking. I think part of it was refusing to acknowledge the severity of my current injury, as I had convinced myself I'd done everything right to avoid it (previous injuries were caused by hitting the Moonboard three times a week, and the next by throwing myself at Demon Wall Roof a million times to try and beat sundown). Gonna try and make these daily, only takes 15 minutes and I need to stop being such a wanker about it.

S - Rest, contrast baths.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Outside, please, weather gods!

W - Rest.

T - Rehab hangs?

F - Rest.

S, S - Outdoors would be nice again.

Goals:

Rehabilitate A2 pulley

Suavito

Tierdrop

Rigpa

Roadrunner6 17 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

m: 6.5 mile steady road run 7:30 pace

t: Final track workout, 2 miles easy, 6 miles on the track alternating marathon and half marathon paced miles. 5:50 and 6:15 pace.

w: easy 6 mile trail run on the local mountain with the dog

t: 10.2 miles solid pace road run, 6:40 pace.

f: 4.3 miles easy trails with the dog

s: 11 miles at 6:30 am with a mate, pretty steady 7:25-7:30 pace. pm: 22 miles road/gravel ride on local roads and trails.

s: am: lost 2-1 at soccer, no one died. So a good day. first loss in 2 years for our team but had to end some day. pm: 6 miles dirt roads easy with the dog.

About 55 miles for the week so about what I wanted.

OP AlanLittle 17 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

According to the forecast I‘m now looking at a week and a half of unsettled thundery showers. Walls have reopened in the nick of time - now I just need to set a replica of my Zellerwand proj (twelve slightly overhanging fingery moves, crux at the end) and work it to death

Post edited at 07:24
In reply to AlanLittle:

> now I just need to set a replica of my Zellerwand proj (twelve slightly overhanging fingery moves, crux at the end) and work it to death

Up down up on a 20 degree board might do the trick.

 Ally Smith 17 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Ally Smith - in the words of the prophet Dave Mac, keeping at least a couple of maintenance level sessions going in the face of other commitments will always pay off in the long run.

Just as well, as I while we were away all I managed was a few pull-ups, press-ups and hang grippers!

50min board session Friday; dozen problems 6B+ to 7B+

Sunday: 2.5hrs bouldering. Doing all the moves and some chunky links on a pair of 8A's. Seems a year of board climbing has paid off.

 the sheep 18 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan, the tri is at Bosworth Water Park. Although coincidentally Stoney is right on my doorstep. I took the eldest there the other day to scope out the swimming as she previously had not wanted to swim there as its so deep. However she liked the look of the place so its on our list of venues for later in the year. The water temp is still a little low for our liking 

Its been a slow week with work being busy, only managed 3 swims. However on the plus side i got my second jab on the Monday which is brilliant. Had written Tuesday off as I felt terrible after the first one but was thankfully fine   

Hopefully a more active week ahead!

 biscuit 18 May 2021
In reply to Tyler:

I’m about for Lakes climbing. Free that weekend but can’t do every day. I’ll be in dad duty one day (doesn’t matter which)  but we’ll be looking at getting out on the others. We’re off Fridays as well. 

 planetmarshall 20 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> planetmarshall - Lattice Lite *and* TFTNA benchmarks? Both at the same time sounds ambitious if you're actually going to try to improve on both fronts rather than just maintain one of them.

Yes, good point. There's a bit of crossover with the strength and conditioning work, but the more specific exercises are obviously different and that's where I'm concentrating on the Lattice Plan. I'm mostly adding an aerobic base element to the Lattice exercises.

> Do you do the Alpine Combine uphill speed test on a box or a real hill? I find the results between the two wildly inconsistent.

Real hill - I usually run up Jacob's Ladder to Kinder Low.

Last Week

Lattice Lite Plan Week 1. It has a strength focus which I was a bit surprised at - thought Aerobic Power would be more applicable to Route climbing. I'll stick with it, though.

Monday

Boulder Pyramids (half session) - Substation

Difficult to find the intensity with these - I find there's a very fine line between hard enough and outright failure.

Wednesday

Boulders - 6 problems EMOM, 3 sets - Substation

Thursday

Bouldering - unstructured session. Made a bit of progress on one of the blacks - Substation.

Friday

Trail Run (Taxal Edge/Windgather) 12km/385m

Saturday

  • Strength and Conditioning
  • Max Hangs (Half Session)
  • Wrist Curls
  • Alpine Combine Test

Sunday

Trail Run (Cheshire/Lyme Park) 7.5km/271m

Last Week's Goals

  • 3 x 0.5 Strength and Power sessions. - Done
  • 1 x Power Endurance session - Done
  • Various strength and conditioning sessions. Do the Alpine Combine test from TFTNA - haven't done one of these for a while. - Done, though skipped the hill climb until I can get outside to do it
  • 20km trail running. - Done
  • 3 HVS->E1 routes from Graham's list, and 1 benchmark E1. - Couldn't get outside, though probably could have done with a slightly more optimistic attitude to the unsettled weather.

Alpine Combine Test - 

Some work to do here, but definitely better at pressing than pulling.

Number in 1 minute

  • Dips (on the rings) - 15 (Good)
  • Situps - 27 (Poor)
  • Pullups - 14 (Poor)
  • Box Jumps - 22 (Poor) (considering this a win since I couldn't do them at all before my leg operation)
  • Pressups : 30 (Good)
  • Hill Climbs - TODO

Next Week's Goals

  • 2.5 Strength and Power workouts
  • 1 Power Endurance workout
  • 3 HVS->E1 routes from Graham's list, and 1 benchmark E1. - Again bit of a stretch goal
  • 2 Strength and Conditioning sessions
  • Add in some Hill Sprints
  • 22km trail running
Post edited at 13:24
OP AlanLittle 20 May 2021
In reply to planetmarshall:

>> Do you do the Alpine Combine uphill speed test on a box or a real hill? ...

> Real hill - I usually run up Jacob's Ladder to Kinder Low.

Run? In big boots with a 30lb pack? Impressed

 Tom Green 21 May 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Hi All. Thanks for continuing with the stats Alan.

Pembroke remains frustrating -the tiny breaks in the crap weather don't correspond to the tiny breaks in my work. 

Week 19:

This week looks better on paper than it probably was in practice! Slightly lacklustre sessions -although unsurprising given that I'm pretty knackered from having to actually work hard for a change!

M: Hill run (/walk!) -Cadair Idris. 6.55km, 564m vert, 8:26/km. Tried to be clever and do an off piste loop, but the weather crapped out big time so turned it in to a there-and-back resulting in a hideous knee-shattering descent. Distracted myself from the present reality by daydreaming of the Corris Round  youtube.com/watch?v=pKv2BaVq1EE& 

T: Alpine start & finish for work.

W: Climbing: Penally. Managed to grab an hour between jobs and soloed the hilarious Sea Tube (VD) 

T: Alpine start & finish for work. 

F: Climbing: Dovedale. First time in Dovedale -cool place (although the massive chain from the lip of the Bat is pretty obnoxious... is that a lower off or to moor ships to? What a mess). Had a massive fight on a very wet John Peel (HVS 5a) then had a hilarious time falling off harder things. Good to clock up some falls on gear. 

S: Rest.

S: Trail run. 9km, 209m vert, 5:52/km.

Week 20:

Try to fit in some prehab and fingerboarding/conditioning on work days.

2 Runs.

1 Climbing day.

STG (End Q2):

Max Hang total 85kg

Weighted Pull-up total 88kg

Thug circuit 1-on, 1-off

Eliminator (V4)

Grid Iron (6c)

15 E-points (1/15!)

Edale Skyline and/or Cheshire Gritstone Trail

MTG (End Q3):

Yates' Layaway (f6B+) 

Jack the Smuggler (7a)

Black Wall Direct (E2 5c)

One of: Cairngorm Classic Rock IAD, El Cap nose-day (880m climbing), Welsh 3000s

2021 Goals:

35 E-points

Run 30km vert and 1000km

 Si dH 21 May 2021
In reply to Tom Green:

Good effort if you climbed John Peel clean in the wet! Not something I'd have jumped on...

 Tom Green 21 May 2021
In reply to Si dH:

It was either that or George and George looked intimidating!

 Si dH 21 May 2021
In reply to Tom Green:

Next time you are there in the dry, do George. It's brilliant, one of the best E1s on peak lime.

In reply to AlanLittle:

It's a weird ass list based on the 1989 guide, so includes things with a single star that used to be VS (HS-HVS), but neglects things with lots of stars that presumably since became VS...the good thing is it is making me climb lots of styles I would never normally look at, and too many slabs (though to be honest, I have actually enjoyed the slabs). But I will probably get to the point where there are only silly Steve Bancroft and Joe Brown jumping campus traverses left (eg Cleft Wing (VS 5b) Cleft Wing Superdirect (VS 4c) which I will just have to decide to be in the mood/climbing wall fit enough to do. Or just go for the one day challenge to then force me to do them. Definitely wouldn't want to second them though so it'll be a lead!

This week a little heavy on work but yoga every day, 11k run (300m vert) and started back at the local wall including a few on the V4-6 circuit.

In reply to Tom Green and Si dH:

What Si said!


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