UKC Fit Club Week 748

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 AlanLittle 18 Jul 2021

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:-     also this -

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:-

And for those looking for more theoretical background, there's a useful subject index of published research studies on the Beta Angel project. Not sure how actively maintained if is though.

Last weeks post -

AJM - solid DIY Club progress. But I take it the Tuesday & Sunday sessions were a climbing wall rather than home wall?

Ally Smith - sounds like encouraging progress on the roof project. Iirc this is something you've  been looking at for a while?

biscuit - your new plan seems a bit light on rest days. Any firm MTG targets for Arco (assuming the Brenner Pass hasn't been swept away before September by flash floods & landslides)?

Liam P - jab, house move AND a board breakthrough. Quite the week.

planetmarshall - interesting benchmark results. Whether they're good or bad depends on whether you see steep burl or fingers as a higher priority to work on right now.

Ross Barker - glad to hear you're liking the new gym. I had no problems from my first AZ shot - got my second coming up next week too.

Si dH - got well soon, I hope?

Somerset swede basher - good news on the recovering finger and the boulder project successes

Steve Claw - welcome! Sounds like you have a realistic view of your stregnths, weakenesses and what you want to work on.

the sheep - at the risk of repeating myself: you're going to have to step up the running & biking a bit at some point. Open water swimming is always nicer than chlorinated pools though.

Tom Green - the Llanymynech project does indeed sound close. Never try out new clever ideas on a redpoint burn!

Tyler - was the Kilnsey turn back due to discouragement from the toe/ankle problems? Understandable if so. I picture Cave Route being "protected" by a collection of dubious rotting 70s aid gear as seen in a Big Ron slideshow some time in the 80s. Hopefully not so these days?

AlanLittle - face it, it's your mate's willingness to go to dubious crags in shitty conditions, rather than give up and go to the wall, that's causing his performance to race ahead of yours at the moment.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan. Another mega-busy week of baby wrangling and decorating. Forced myself down the wall for one session but I’m just treading water at the minute.

Pram Shunting: 3 hours. 


  • 3x 2&2/3 Frenchies. Inching towards the 3x3, then I’ll up the lock-off time from 4 seconds to 5.
  • 3x 10 Pseudo Planche Push Up
  • 10x Board. Repeated my board breakthrough 1st go. 9 goes on the Left Mirror but still can’t link it. Frustrating but feels like it’s coming.
  • AeroCap 3x 3 Laps (72 moves) of 5a Circuit Board

Thinking of putting my head above the parapet and asking for a day out climbing this week. Wish me luck!

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan, I was really pleased with last week. Hoping that I can get moffatrocity done next week before we are away on holiday.

Mon. Drove around but could only find dry rock at The Tor. Managed to do Problem 9 Variantion 1 (V8) which, although lacking in King Line status, is something I've tried on various sessions over the years and never managed before so happy with that.

Tues. More gardening and cleaning than actual climbing but managed to clean and climb Baby Roof (V8). I think that FA must have been 5' with huge sausage fingers to give it 7B but it was still a good climb.

Wed. 5km run

Thurs. First proper session on moffatrocity. Did all the moves but no links.

Fri. 23km Road bike.

Sat. Rest.

Sun. Unexpected boulder session, back on moffatrocity. Wired my beta for the traverse section and did 3 laps of that, then 3 laps of JR refining beta, then 3 burns trying to put it together where I fell off the big move on JR each time. Coming together nicely. 

 Si dH 18 Jul 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan. Another tough week this week, but things should improve from now.

M: rest, still a bit ill.

T:  rest, still a bit ill.

W: lunchtime - 3* 30 second density hangs and a couple of one arm scap pull-ups with the theraband assistance. Still feeling full of phlegm but wanted to get something done.

T:  rest

F: evening - 3* 30 second density hangs, an hour on the board up to 6c/+ish and a couple of one arm scap pull-ups with the theraband assistance. Feeling basically over the bug now.

S: got my second vaccine dose.

S: feeling tired and headachey so called off training this morning. Probably vaccine after effects. Felt a bit better in the afternoon but stuck to gardening, didn't want to push it too soon.

Apart from illness the last few weeks have also had a very heavy workload in the 'office.' I've worked a few hours each on Saturday/Sunday this weekend, which is very unusual. I'm hopeful my workload should be lower again for a while now so I should be able to get training again properly this coming week.


In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers Alan. Yes, the wall sessions were at the Project, my local in Poole.

Monday - achey! Some stretching and some L sit to tuck planche attempts in the evening. First time in ages I have done the latter and was pleasantly surprised with my form.

Tuesday - rest

Wednesday - glorious sunshine, great to be out, but couldnt find company for dws so ended up bouldering; terrible bouldering conditions Cuttings Boulderfield, session #2 on Liquid Sun. Took a little while to remember the knack, but had a good session. Something of a eureka moment with shoes - I think I had tried with the Furias at some point in the last and rejected them in favour of the Oasis, but on giving them another go I’m not sure why since the full toe covering of rubber makes the whole “toescum top of the left foot to move the right heel along” thing substantially easier. Since the problem is a long slopey lip traverse, this is significant! I think my best goes would have left me slightly shy of overlapping halves save for the topout - I have done the topout before as the finish of another problem but I’m not sure that sequence is best suited to being done with far more moves under the belt. My friend claims a significantly easier sequence which I tried but didn’t commit enough to. Goals for next session would be to sort out the topout and try to get the whole thing in overlapping halves, I guess. Torn between being psyched to go back and wanting to try to arrange a few sessions in a short period during cooler weather to dial in the microbeta and take advantage of better conditions.

Photo and video here, of the stand and the sit:

Thursday - shoulders feeling battered and skin a bit trashed.

Friday - original plan had been to take the afternoon off and hit the big L with the family. Unfortunately work had other ideas. The only silver lining is that apparently it was really greasy so I’ve reclaimed half a day of holiday to be used when the humidity is low and the holds are dry and grippy. Did a bit more work on the wall.

Saturday - jab number 2 plus a bbq with some of my team from work, which was great

Sunday - supposed to be the big L again. But microAJM had a rubbish night and wasn’t feeling great, and obviously as a knock on we were tired, and my arm aches a bit from the jab. So I took miniAJM to the beach and in the afternoon did a hot and sweaty session getting the last of the ply mounted and the campus rungs drilled and up on the wall. I’ve also drilled 30 wooden domes for feet, got about half of them left to countersink tomorrow and then those can start to go on the wall.

Post edited at 20:54

 Si dH 18 Jul 2021
In reply to AJM:

I like the spanner hangar.

In reply to AlanLittle:

> was the Kilnsey turn back due to discouragement from the toe/ankle problems? Understandable if so.

No, just poorly motivated

> I picture Cave Route being "protected" by a collection of dubious rotting 70s aid gear as seen in a Big Ron slideshow some time in the 80s. Hopefully not so these days?

There have been various attempts at modernisation over the years but last year it got a proper re/retro bolt and word is it’s much better like this but AJM and Ally are I. a position to say what it was like before

M: Depot, strapped the ankle up and went for a few of the Reds, probably managed about 70% of them in the 2 main halls. 
W: Gordale to open the account on CCRH, got there late due to traffic and the top half was wet. One stickclip go third of the way up, then Jenny stick clipped to the crux, where it got wet and I had a couple of goes on TR to here. Moves above look quite hard but didn’t really try them, then it’s into the crack where I’m told it’s just a case of keeping on trucking. Surprised how good it was so pretty psyched but will need another evening to work the crux before I can risk the weekend crowds. 
Sat: Had a ‘thing’ planned in the Peak so we went to Newstones, not exactly primo but it was great to catchup with folk and I got up some stuff but shut down on most things. 
S: Family dim sum precluded a Gordale evening trip but keen to get back into project mode. 

Weight recovered post holiday but is back up again now

Post edited at 21:29
In reply to AJM:

Have you sequestered MiniAJM’s bedroom to put up a board?

 Ross Barker 18 Jul 2021
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> I think that FA must have been 5' with huge sausage fingers to give it 7B but it was still a good climb.

Got any beta? I'm keen to get another soft 7B ego-boost under my belt

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan,

Hot down here this week, so a change to the normal routine. (Mon, indoor ropes - Wed, indoor boulder - Fri, outdoor fun)

M - Indoor ropes at Redpoint. Leading routes at 7a/b, keeping to the steeper walls.  3*20 Press-ups

T - Rest

W - Change to normal boulder, as it was hot and wanted save my arms to go outside on Thurs. Had an easy evening in Avon, tried out The Prince (8a+) couldn't do any of it.  Watched some teams melting in the heat on the easy trad routes, including someone adventuring up Puke (HVS 5a) (they made it).  Then went to the main walls to check out my route for the morning, and did Bog Wall Traverse (none 5c) because I was there.

T - Main Wall Eliminate (E4 6a) Warm day, started early in the morning to stay in the shade.  Got about half way up and moved up to the dodgy undercut flakes on the 2nd overhang and got this strong feeling deep inside that I was going to die, which I haven't had before (probably reading too much Andy Kirkpatrick).  Reversed a bit and lowered off.  Not wanting to do nothing, went up Krapp's Last Tape (E3 5b) and finished just as the sun hit the wall.  Went home 3*20 Press-up, 3*10 Pull up on BM and 3 x 20 dips.

F - Depsite the heat, decided to go and hide in a quarry in Avon and do some routes that were newly put up since last visit.  Mostly high 6's but one 7b that I got 2nd go (1st after working it all out).  Then went and abseiled in on Main Wall Eliminate to check out the "loose" flakes, turns out they are keyed in enough to not (easily) come out, and may have taken my weight, however a large microwave sized one just above dropped straight out!  Home and 3*20 Press-up, 3*10 Pull up on BM and 3 x 20 dips.

S - 3*20 Press-up, 3*10 Pull up on BM and 3 x 20 dips.

S - 3*25 Press-up, 3*10 Pull up on BM and 3 x 20 dips, all before breakfast (and it getting to hot)

In reply to Tyler:

It was a bit hybrid when I did it - Ally onsighted it, I think, but basically placed only 1 or maybe 2 wires, clipped a load of pegs and a load of bolts. I think the bottom was bolted (it's shared with something up the wall to the right?), the middle was pegs I think, then there was a bolted section shared with Cave Route Left and I think there was then some pegs or gear on the easier section to the loweroff? I did it with the draws in, everything extended where I wanted it and so on, so in terms of how I approached it it was as if it was bolted. By then it was a weird hybrid due to sharing ground with two bolted routes already, so it's not surprising that the remaining sections have been bolted I guess.

I thought it was a great route, one of my two favourite 7b+s in the UK.

In reply to Tyler:

It used to be our spare room a year or so back, which had a spare bed in it, my campus board and a little climbing wall we build for miniAJM about the start of lockdown #1. Then we moved microAJM into it, and it became quite cramped, so eventually we decided to combine the climbing walls, take out the spare bed and turn it into a playroom for adults and children alike

 Ross Barker 18 Jul 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Ross Barker - glad to hear you're liking the new gym. I had no problems from my first AZ shot - got my second coming up next week too.

Yeah, it's a nice refreshing change and the owner seems like a nice chap. Minimal issues with my jab as well. Despite it being a million degrees it's been a pretty good week!

Last Week:

M - Contrast baths.

T - Rest.

W -  Gallt yr Ogof Boulder. Couple of hours in the sun trying stuff that's way too hard for me. Very good finger workout at least!

T - 5G vaccine. Contrast baths.

F - Sore delt and sudden urge to purchase Microsoft prodcts. Contrast baths.

S - Contrast baths.

S - Mega sweaty Wales mission. Intented for  Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet) but no parking, so opted for The Sheep Pen. Tried to warm up on Dog Shooter (V4) but really struggled on the crux (despite flashing about a year earlier), didn't think it was a good sign for the day. Tried Gnasher (V6) a bit, almost stuck the crux, and could do it from a French start, but didn't think it was worth any more skin given the conditions. Eventually shuffled over to a shady Klem's Bulge (V6) and got it first try after 2 hours of wasting skin on shit beta. Felt good. Dead chuffed. Cooled down on a cheeky Milestone Roof (f6A) then dunked my head in Llyn Ogwen. Contrast baths.

Next Week:

M - Rest and rehab.

T - Gym? Local crag? Bah, I'll figure something out.

W - Rest and rehab.

T - Same as Tuesday.

F - Rest and rehab.

S, S - Hoping it isn't 30 degrees again.


Rehabilitate finger.




 AlanLittle 19 Jul 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

No actual flooding where I live, although it's been pretty rough elsewhere - "greetings from Atlantis", as a colleague from Düsseldorf said in our daily team call - nevertheless generally discouraging weather plus pressure of work kept me indoors this week.

STG: plan autumn sport trip, assuming no delta 4th wave / 3rd lockdown
STG: Board power phase: any moonboard benchmark, kilterboard 6A @ 40°
MTG: Summer 2021: Fill out my couple-of-goes pyramid around the 6c-ish level before moving onto to any more harder projects. 
MTG: Autumn 2021 trip. Ditch the lockdown weightbelt (3 to 5 kgs) beforehand and get fit 
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Rest day. Half an hour stretching
T: Boulderwelt, kilter board. There's a first time for everything - including, as it turns out, a fire alarm at a climbing wall. Which, relaistically, meant I was saved by the bell. Felt like I was well on my way to a spectacularly weak & discouraging session. Probably  not fully recovered from the weekend.
T: heavy work (zoom meetings) day, didn't feel like going to the wall. Bike one hour, token max hangs.

F: Lockdown may be over, but permanent home office is still eating away at my ability to distinguish one day from another. Case in point: I went to Boulderwelt, and was in the middle of my warm up before I twigged that the reason I was feeling a bit weak and stiff was because I had forgotten that I trained yesterday. Oops. Ran away from the moonboard and did some moderate puntering about on the ordinary gym problems before cutting the session short. 

S:  my son decided today was a good day to open his birthday bottle of 18 yo single malt, after which my "training" for the evening consisted of watching the Briançon semifinal on youtube.
S: Wall, Weyarn. Autobelay endurance laps, including faster repeats as recommended by my coach.

Next week: second movement coaching session Wednesday, second jab on Thursday. Keeping plans for the weekend open depending on how I feel post jab (was ok after the first one apart from a slightly sore shoulder)

Post edited at 07:54
 Tom Green 19 Jul 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Hi FitClub. Thanks for statting, Alan -some good wisdom as always.

Poor week for training, good week for climbing with a trip to Cornwall. To be honest, I came away from Cornwall a little disappointed with a few annoying failures, but on reflection it was a good week. I think I just dismiss/forget about the successes and focus on the failures a little too much.

Week 28:

M: Climbing at Carn Barra -humbled to 'warm up' on a VS, only to find it quite hard! The holds and gear all seemed a bit awkward having not climbing on Cornish granite for 10+ years! Highlight was actually seconding the delightful lower section of Sunny Corner Lane (E3 5c) although I then fell off the top moves having tried to be too clever on the rather 3D sequence. Also, mildly hungover from the previous night's football.

T: Climbing at Carn Barra -back on granite form today! Highlight was leading Ra (HVS 5a) -a bit of a personal milestone as a benchmark that the effort spent trying to improve my jamming over the last couple of years has paid off. 

W: Climbing at Kenidjack -loving the Killas Slate. Led Saxon (HVS 5a) and Rock Dancer (E1 5b) and, in total contrast to my form on the granite, found them easy to the point of wondering if they were both overgraded. In a classic case of never being happy with what you've got I was actually a bit disappointed they weren't harder and scarier! Went to Sennen in the afternoon and fell off seconding Samson Arete (just too burly) and Gillian (pumped removing gear that my lanky partner placed out of reach!)

T: Climbing at Chair Ladder -what a magical place, great to be back there again. Very pleased to lead the crux pitch on Bishop's Rib (E1 5b) and also happy to second the hard pitch of The Spire (E3 5c) cleanly.

F: Climbing at Bosigran -crushingly hot day. We struggled a bit all week with cons on the granite -it needed the sun on it to dry up the sea fret grease, but as soon as the sun was on the faces they were unbearably hot! Very, very disappointed to blow the first pitch of Bow Wall (E2 5b), falling off one hard move pulling from the jams on to the tiny cramped slab on second. Cruised the second 5b pitch on lead and had found everything apart from that one move on P1 trivial, so feel like this should have been a straightforward tick. Frustrating.

S: Climbing at Hella Point -great place to hide from the ridiculous heat. Led Sun Shadow (HVS 5a) -nice climbing on a really cool crag. Then finished the trip with another frustrating failure at Carn Gloose. Astral Stroll (E1 5b) which, despite the rock being almost too hot to touch at 6pm, had a big wet section that I couldn't pass and ended up aiding through. Again, everything else felt pretty steady, so it was another classic route that felt like it got away. Frustrated at not having enough in hand  to not get psyched out and shut down by the conditions. Annoying to finish the trip on a downer!

S: The looooong journey home from Cornwall.

Week 29:

Going to be a bit of a worky week.

Run x 2

Fingerboard x 2 

Llanymynech session.

STG (End August):

Eliminator (V4) and Yates' Layaway (f6B+) 

Grid Iron (6c) and Jack the Smuggler (7a)

Red Square (E2) and Black Wall Direct (E2 5c)

Edale Skyline and Cheshire Gritstone Trail

2021 Goals:

35 E-points

Run 30km vert and 1000km

In reply to Tom Green:

Smashing the Hard Rock ticks there Tom!

 Tom Green 19 Jul 2021
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Haha! Think they were smashing me more than me smashing them! Had previously done Suicide Wall though so that’s Cornwall’s Hard Rock ticked off! Don’t need to go back now!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Start on back wall.  Left hand to bottom of crack at the lip thumb down.  (intermediates available to get there if your fingers are slim enough to slide into the roof crack - mine were).  Shuffle feet up the back wall a bit. Right hand just above the left.  Shuffle feet up a bit more (good foothold out right somewhere).  Goey move to go again with the right hand to the good high jam thumb up.  Lock the right arm and get good holds above and left of the crack with the left.  Right hand up to good holds above and just right of the crack.  Very bunched move to get left toe on the lip (think I cut loose for this - worth stretching first, it is really bunched).  Press out the mantle (try turning right hand to a palm as soon as you can if struggling to press it out).  I didn't use the small holds just left of the crack that the guy in the picture is using but I could fit both hands in the crack the whole way and i fitted well in the bunched toe up move.

I think I was just perfect body size to be honest - enough span to reach the lip with toes still on the back wall, small enough hands to use the crack anywhere and short enough to find the bunched toe up move OK. 

In reply to Tom Green:

Do I remember from some distant fit club you using Jenga blocks as board footholds, or am I thinking of someone else?

If so, how did it work out? They seem to be in a whole different price league to any sort of manufactured foothold!

 Ally Smith 19 Jul 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks again for the stats Alan.

> Ally Smith - sounds like encouraging progress on the roof project. Iirc this is something you've  been looking at for a while?

Yep - looking at is the correct term - I started investigating the possibility and bolted it back in April/May while on SPL, but I've only had 2 short goes trying the moves.

I've been doing a bunch of specific training for this route (middle-2 repeaters and groin stretches) and feel like i'm making decent progress. Hopefully it should just be a matter of "keep-turning-up" (Moose's mantra) now...

Week 28

M – Classic repeaters (7/3/6/3), M2 @BW+8kg and F2 @BW. Pretty pumpy and good skin conditioning too. 5x5 “on-the-minute” pull-ups @BW+20kg. Stretches.

T – 23km / 49min ride. Stretches.

W – Gorge. Ab’d in and added 3x new bolts to “The Smoking Gnu” and cleaned 50% of the slab section before the wire brush gave out. Bouldered a bit, including trying a newbie. Went and did some more cleaning, went back for dropped hoody and found someone topping out the newbie. Boots back on, copied their beta and did it. You win some, you lose some Mid-Crag Ascent (f7A)

T – Stretches. Bench 6x5 60kg. Static hold core.

F –  Deadlift 4x5 100kg (slightly sore hip, so stopped short of planned 5x5).

S – An-cap 6in6. Tried hard but fell lots – too darn warm. 7/3/6/3 M2 repeaters @BW+8kg (5 sets). Superset with reverse flys (4x8) and flys (4x8).

S – 43km flat loop before it got too warm. Home by 10am. Way too hot for planned tidal walk to Hilbre Island with Squiggle, so did shady walk in Delamere forest instead. More stretches.

 Tom Green 19 Jul 2021
In reply to AJM:

Yep. That’s right. Essentially fifty footholds for eight quid! 

They are great for me, as I use the board for circuits so want something positive but not too big. They are a good balance to the half domes. 

 Si dH 19 Jul 2021
In reply to AJM:

> Do I remember from some distant fit club you using Jenga blocks as board footholds, or am I thinking of someone else?

> If so, how did it work out? They seem to be in a whole different price league to any sort of manufactured foothold!

If you are short of footholds and don't need them urgently, I think I have a bunch hanging around the back of my board that I don't need. Half domes are basically impossible to use on it so I replaced most of them.

 Si dH 19 Jul 2021
In reply to Ally Smith:

What holds do you do 2 finger pocket repeaters on? I have always found them quite friction dependent so doing repeaters I think I'd always struggle towards the end of a set.

In reply to Tom Green:

Some beta if I may please Tom... what size is Ra for jams? And what did you ab off for Saxon (or did you do the slippery walk in of doom?)

In reply to Si dH:

By half domes, I assume you mean with the top cut off, not a pure hemisphere? (I.e. like in the pic here )

I've got 30mm hemispheres as the bad feet, but I'm assuming (I may find out today how wrong I am!) that they will still be the right side of useable at 15 degrees.

Half domes as the better feet would be great if you aren't using them - do you know roughly how many you have?

 Si dH 19 Jul 2021
In reply to AJM:

I meant pure hemispheres actually. I have ten of those. However I do also have a few of the ones with the top cut off that I don't need - there should be four but I can only find three (I still use the rest of those on my board.)

PS I think you'll be able to use hemispheres on 15 Deg board for most moves. You'll probably want a few better foot holds so you can do some bigger moves too without cutting loose. I found that using hemispheres on my board (just past 45 degs) was basicallly impossible without jugs, so I took them all off except on the kicker.

Post edited at 11:46
In reply to AJM:

I used to climb on a board that was only gently overhanging and had a load of 2p coins glued to it for footholds.  It really forced you to engage your core and made a more fingery workout in a limited space.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

I'm hoping that's what my domes might do, just with less requirement for edges on the shoes! 2p coins sounds hardcore though - how steep are we talking.....

In reply to Si dH:

Pure hemispheres on a 45 sounds like a nightmare!

I think I am all good for hemispheres, and probably need more decent footholds than the 3 "top off" domes you mention - but thanks very much for the offer

 Tom Green 19 Jul 2021
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

I have quite small paws, so often ‘perfect hands’ cracks are a bit baggy for me. Ra was perfect hands for me in the bottom half; baggy hands above the ledge then good fists to finish. I think for the average of hand, it would be tight hands to perfect hands to baggy hands/tight fists. 

We cheekily abbed in to Saxon down someone else’s lines. They had rigged a rope down the slope from the gearing up spot below the path (slings and nuts) to the belay at the top of the cliff, then just clipped in to the end of this with their main ab rope (although you could also build a sling and cam belay here if needed). The hand rail rope down to the cliff top was nice, but not essential -the slope wasn’t as deathly as people had said (although it was dry when we were there). 
Edit to add: if we’d rigged the ab ourselves we’d probably have just done it in one from the top blocks near the path, but our ab rope is 100m. If your ab rope is less than seventy-ish you’d probably struggle to do this. 

Post edited at 13:42
 Tom Green 19 Jul 2021
In reply to Somerset swede basher:


In reply to AJM and Tom:

Not more than about 15 degrees I think.  You spent a lot of time cut loose.  It was awesome

 Ally Smith 19 Jul 2021
In reply to Si dH:

> What holds do you do 2 finger pocket repeaters on? I have always found them quite friction dependent so doing repeaters I think I'd always struggle towards the end of a set.

The middle row pockets on a BM2000

In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:


There is an outcrop just up the slope that can be used to ab in and belay off. Just avoid the obvious nut placement everyone uses that is on a loose block.

I think abbing in is easier, and you then also have a rope to belay off at the top. (although the walk down is ok when dry)

I was using an 80m ab rope last time I was there, and I think it had plenty spare.

Post edited at 17:39
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

It is, admittedly, horrendous conditions right now, and this was a far from comprehensive exercise, but I tried to hang on a small campus rung (20mm) with my feet on the domes, and I'm certainly not going to be moving statically on them on holds that size, I can say that much! Maybe the crimps I buy should be a bit bigger.....

In reply to AlanLittle:

> planetmarshall - interesting benchmark results. Whether they're good or bad depends on whether you see steep burl or fingers as a higher priority to work on right now.

I think my fingers are definitely comparatively weak - I can't hold bodyweight on a 10mm edge. It's something I'd like to improve, for sure.

Last Week

Lattice Week 10


Project Bouldering at Substation. Mostly red problems V4-V5


Trail run 8.75km/224m


Trail run 9.03km/118m

Sport at  Smalldale Quarry


Cragging at  Kinder Northern Edges. Fair bit of faffery and extremely hot so only the one lead

Last Week's Goals

  • Two leads at E1 or above - Not quite, but one HVS and a 6b
  • 30km trail running - get started early in the week or this won't happen. 18km trail running and a lot of walking - counting this as Done.
  • Find some more fingery routes on the bouldering wall - Done
  • Some good weather is coming - try and get another mountain trad trip organized - Hopefully this week.

Next Week

Lattice Week 11.

  • Struggling a bit with the training regime in the hot weather - need to start early.
  • 33km trail running or equivalent
  • Two leads at E1 or above
  • Two leads at 6b or above
 biscuit 22 Jul 2021
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers as ever Alan. Top quality statting.

Yes not many/any rest days but other than Wednesday they're all short fingerboard based so it feels quite manageable.

M - Mobility, jogged bout 3 miles, press ups and density hangs

T - An Cap hangs

W - Boulder - V hot obviously. Greasing off V6's. Got one (flashed, soft) but good try hard session with structure. Tweaked my wrist again which i tweaked a couple of weeks ago but it seemed to settle quickly. It's still lurking it would appear. 

Aero Pow - foot on campus - Owch! 1m45s down to 45s over 6 sets

Aero Cap - easy circuits up to 6c for 1 on 1 off x 10

T - An Cap hangs

F - Trow Gill. Very dusty and very hot. Warmed up on a 6a+ and a top rope of a 7a on the far end. Hung around for a while figuring what to do. The shady side looked very dirty. Decided on having a go on Pimp with a Limp (7a+) in the full sun. What could go wrong? The obvious of course. I came off just before the flake stabbing for what turned out to be a greasy, dusty sloper. Got back on, found the better hold and continued to under the overhang. Lowered from there with swollen and sore feet. Had another go later but ground to a halt at the overhang. Figured the moves and one to go back for.

S - Walk over Loughrigg Fell

S - Neckband crag. Great day. Gillette (E2 5c) was the highlight for me but Gandalf's Groove Direct (E2 5b) and Razor Crack (E1 5b) were also 3*.

This week more of the same - get consistent with mid week training

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