UKC

Early posting this week, as I'm going up into the mountains tomorrow to try to escape the heat, and most likely will be back rather late and tired in the evening.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday (usually!) for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...     also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

And for those looking for more theoretical background, there's a useful subject index of published research studies on the Beta Angel project. Not sure how actively maintained if is though. https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory/

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_751-7378...

AJM - good wall successes and lime project progress. Hope this week was reasonably bearable despite work/quarantine/lurgies?

Ally Smith - hope the groin strain is behaving itself?

biscuit - glad to hear of the return to form - a good week on trad and on plastic. I too am feeling the shadow of the pandemic still hanging heavily over autumn trip planning.

Liam P - very solid training week there given the family circumstances. Frenchies bring back 80s memories - proper old school training there. You'll be hanging a bachar ladder up next!

Ross Barker - glad to hear the elbow is behaving itself. How's the Northumberland trip going?

Si dH - another solid training week. What are copenhagens? Googling is only finding me calisthenics enthusiasts in Denmark.

Somerset swede basher - I like the look of Trewortha. Still on holiday this week?

Steve Claw - well done putting square-on boarding into practice (I'm going to have to defer it to my next board power phase). Were you still at scout camp this week?

the sheep - "with the sprint tri a month away it really is time to get my arse into action!" - indeed. So did you?

Tom Green - I like the look of your LLanymynech project. Did you get back on it this week?

Tyler - ... and some weeks time on rock is more about the principle of the thing than actual training benefit. Benching after all the cardio stuff does sound like a fairly reliable recipe for weak benching.

AlanLittle - a couple of good Frankenjura ticks snatched from the jaws of this summer's ongoing iffy weather, well done. Now keep the momentum going.

===========  PLANNING AHEAD - NEXT FIT CLUB MODERATOR =================

OK folks, planning ahead. I'm currently looking at heading off for a retsina'n'tufa holiday at the beginning of November, covid delta permitting. At that point I'll have been statting for exactly a year, and will pass the baton to somebody else. Volunteer(s) please.
 

Morning Alan. 

Yeah, we got through. Feeling a bit run down and tired as a result, didn't really train, just a 20m or so fingerboard session about Tuesday. Frustratingly the only morning I could have got out was Thursday when the weather was a bit meh.

Drove to North Wales yesterday. Popped out this morning, but a bit tired still, not much time to warm up and on-off mizzle meant nothing really achieved. Went to the Barrel to try The Minimum (V7) and Bulling 747 (V6) but didn't really made any impression on either. 

Weeks weather looks decidedly mixed. Have to see what gets done. Keen to go to some different places - aside from sheep pen I have never bouldered in ogwen, never been to the Barrel, not really visited much. But let's see how it goes. The ground is wet underfoot and the forecast is hardly ideal!

Ogwen is lovely, if you ever want any recommendations for problems or venues give me a shout and I'll happily throw some suggestions your way!

Cheers for statting as always Alan, good job!

It was a good trip indeed! Feel like I didn't get maximum value out of it as I went solo, but visited a lot of interesting crags and fondled a lot of cool rock. Also, ferns. Lots of ferns. No ticks though!

Elbow and dodgy finger were completely fine all trip. Now officially considering the elbow to be 100% non-dodgy, and the finger about 95% there. The finger probably just needs to keep being intelligently used and it'll not be too long until I can be fully confident in it.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T -  Almscliff en route to Northumberland. A couple of easy fun things (including the classic Matterhorn Ridge (f4+)), then retroflashed Dolphin Belly Slap (f7A) and scuttled my way up a very coarse Patta's Arete (f7A).

W - Bushwhacked in  Hepburn for a bit then sacked it off to Bowden Doors. Honestly spent more time being dazzled by the bold routes than anything else. Cave RH Problem (f6B+) is a proper Northumbrian sandbag!

T - Trudged into Queens Crag, topped Humpty Dumpty (f6C+) relatively quick, then had a bash at World Line (f7B) but frustratingly there are a couple moves my stiff hips wouldn't allow me to do. Other stuff looks amazing but not the idea venue for a solo hit.

F - Back Bowden Doors. Projected Severus Snape (f7B+). Got the crux lunge quickly, in about 5 goes, with a generous helping of lank. Eventually worked out the techy tensiony second half, and gave it about 5 good redpoint goes before my pinky callous gave in and bled everywhere. Very annoyed - not at not sending, but now this flapper is going to give me grief. Too windy for an easy circuit.

S - Morning at Hepburn. Soloed Photo Opportunity Arete (f5) twice which was good, tried Rheumatology (f7A) a bit but dry fired off and couldn't be arsed with the thin skin. Trekked into the woods but the flies were raging despite the breeze so sacked it off back to the car, and eventually back home. Nipped by  Craig y Longridge but it was seepy and drizzly, so campused around on some big holds while trying to decipher the lines.

S - Well-deserved rest.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - Gym. Weather looks rubbish.

T - Rest.

F - Likely gym again.

S, S - Cheeky outdoor session if time and weather allows.

Goals:

Rehabilitate finger (going rather well).

Reckless.

Rigpa.

Thanks - if there's a clear enough day I was thinking about heading to the Milestone stuff and trying things round the pit, Harvey Oswald etc, looks like a decent concentration of things to do there. 

I agree cave right hand feels like a definite step up from the left hand, doesn't it!

Thanks Alan.

M-T: nothing, too much work.

F: afternoon - 3* 30 second density hangs,  3*5 one arm scap pull-ups with theraband assistance, 2*3 power pull-ups. Finger felt good but I felt weak at the scap pull-ups, probably due to lack of sleep. Evening - drive to lakes for a week

S: rest/family stuff

S: quick hit at Armathwaite this morning. I flashed the 6b+ at Sandy Cove, which is a very good problem. Tried working the arete (7a) for a while z but there was a move in the middle that I needed to really pull on a sloper and slap for the next hold with my heel up... didn't really have the psyche required to go for it on my own with a single pad. Nice to get out though.

Si

Milestone stuff is decent. Milestone Roof (f6A) is super classic and not too hard, bit crimpy/reachy but not insane. Bring a tarp for the landing, it's not a bog by any means but it is always wet. Ping (f7A) is very safe and quite good fun, if you find the pit stuff to be a bit too spanking.

I'd recommend visiting Caseg Fraith, Ogwen Jazz (f6C) and Oh Yeah (f6C+) are good little problems (plus a few taller, vertical technical things just to the left).

If you really want to work your fingers out then  Gallt yr Ogof Boulder's Smackhead boulder has a bunch of stiff but safe lines with mainly perfect landings, only a short flat walk from the parking.

I found most stuff in Bowden's cave to be really tough, except the LH problem, sort of felt about right at the grade.

Cheers, arse is definitely back into action. Feel like I can happily complete the tri. Not going to be setting a PB however did the same event before and completely made a hash of the swim leg so want to get it right this time 

Monday, 5km run 

Tuesday, 45km cycle 

Wednesday, 10km run

Thursday, 1.5km swim and stretch class at lunchtime and 5km run in the evening 

Friday, rest day 
 

Saturday, unintentional rest day. Ended up being manic running around after the kids

Sunday, 5km run

Thank you Alan.  Scout camp was just the weekend, this week I was back at work for 2 days then off to the Gower for a family and friends camping holiday.

M - Quick Woody session in Flashpoint after the good results last week.  I worked up the grades 5A, 5C, 6A, 6B, 7A Really stoked with the results, however the board at Flashpoint is definitely easier than the one at Redpoint (or Redpoint is a sandbag).

T - Outdoor session with Dom the Swede Basher.  Had a really good time at Uphill quarry.  Chiming for You (7b), Living Dead (7b), Proper Job (7a), Inhuman (7b+)

W - Drive to Gower

T- Beach Day with the children, set up a Top rope on a few routes on  Tor Bay and Great Tor

F - Managed to get out with a friend to Trial Wall, Rhossili and did Retrobution (7b) and Crime and Punishment (7a+). Really enjoyed them both, definitely going to go there again, as lots more to do.

S - Nothing, Beach

S - Surfing at Rhossili, Drive home. 3 x 25 Press-ups, 3 x 10 Pull ups on BM, 3 x 20 Dips.

Back home for the week now, lots of work to catch up on.

Thanks Alan, hope you’re getting the most out of your weekend. 

M: Treadmill, a more circumspect warm up meant I wasn’t totally knackered after 5km @10km/h and managed to squeeze out a slower 6th (2% incline).  

T: Depot - did a few more reds but still a few holding out. Interestingly never saw anyone on these despite all the purples having been stripped. 

W: Treadmill, 8km total, 6 @ 10km/h (2% incline). Spent the rest of the evening looking for evidence I used to run 10km @ 12km/h which I have convinced myself I used to do. Unfortunately there are no UKC FC entries from when I used to frequent hotel gyms to back this up.  

T: Depot - Managed three purples which I am pleased with, there are potentially three others I can do. Was only a short session as i got there late and my skin was sore. 

F: Treadmill - got there with less than an hour until closing so upped the pace and did 6km with 4 @10.5km/h.

S: Kilnsey - one of our team wanted to do Witches Brew (7b) which would enable me to access the Balas belay but after TR WB I decided to try that as it was a lot better than I remembered (I went on it many years ago and couldn’t do the moves), one bolt to bolt and I was ready for a RP but this ended at crux. Couple of TR attempts on Balas to confirm it was too wet to climb. 

S: 50 minute “run” up Cowpe Low.

I’ve now got 3 mini projects ready to go if the weather plays ball.

I’m keen to get out to the hills (ideally the Lakes) at least one day on BHW but currently partnerless if anyone else is looking (weather permitting). 

Missed a couple of weeks while I get my bearings post-training plan

Last Week

Tuesday.

A couple of routes at Stanage Plantation. Still a bit warm for the grit but an enjoyable evening

• Overhanging Wall (HVS 5a)
• Cue (HVS 5b)

Friday

Headed to N Wales for a local mountaineering club meet. Probably wouldn't have gone ordinarily due to the forecast so it was good to have a bit of a push

Saturday

A couple of routes at Clogwyn yr Eryr (Crafnant). Utterly horrendous approach but enjoyable climbing - a couple of classic 3* E2s noted for future reference

Next Week

• Two routes at E1 or above
• Two sport routes at 6b or above
• Resume training

STG

Try and tick some of this year's E2 goals in September. To that end, shift training focus to AeroCap and start attempting some harder trad routes.

Cheers Alan. Trewortha is worth a visit if you find yourself over that way again, but maybe only if you've someone to go with as you could do with a couple of pads and a spot. I went early morning which wasn't ideal either as all the vegetation was totally soaked with dew although the rock did stay dry.

Summer holiday week 3 this week. In Somerset mostly then back up to Sheffield Sunday eve.

Mon. Rest

Tues. Nice to meet up with Steve Claw for a climb at Uphill. My onsight game was pretty strong today. Warmed up on Risen From The Grave (6c+) which I found hard but got me used to the style then managed Chiming for You (7b) then Living Dead (7b) then Proper Job (7a) all first go. Did most the moves on a 7b+ at the end but both my fingers and toes had had it by that point so sacked it off.

Wed. Rest.

Thurs. Steady 36km cycle with Mrs Swede.

Fri. Headed over to Brean and added Hope (7c) to the beach traverses. Bit of a race against the tide and the daylight so I was pleased to do it in a session (but I knew all the holds from doing Despair last year).

Sat. 8km run

Sun. Steady 30km cycle with Mrs Swede. Long drive north in the evening. 

Thankfully the groin strain settled straight back down again. Bit of a waster session at the gorge on wednesday - jumped on the opportunity for a partner, but conditions weren't conducive to trying hard.

Week 32

M –

• Crimpd max-hangs; BW+50kg – quite steady
• 7s F3SC hangs; BW+10kg – hard but didn’t feel at all tweaky
• 5x11 40kg bench-press
• 5x10 45kg Deadlift with deep start position.

Weights session was a conscious decision to go for lower weights and greater volume.

T – Rest. Bit of light DOMS in forearms, hamstrings, shoulders and serratus.

W – Monday night DOMS still present, especially hamstrings. Gorge was damper than anticipated, especially given the gusty winds. 6c warm-up. Dogged Underworld to refresh acquaintance. Over-gripped and got flash pumped getting up to crux with damp and untrustworthy feet. Got it all sorted and worked out transition section into roof project. Game ON! Had a couple of goes on a silly sideways dyno finish to Echoes (7a+); two-move 7C? Might be worth bolting but certainly isn’t the easy link-up option I was looking for!

T – Nothing bar some COMPEX twitching in front of the TV. Trying to calm down neck and back spasm.

F – 31km / 65min flat ride.

S – Domestic bliss at Trentham Gardens (but seriously, managed to find some new SPD shoes that fit me, something I've been looking for on and off for 18mths)

S – Board. Lots of trying hard on 7C/+ problems. Managed two of them. Crimpd static hold core and their 6min shoulder mobility follow-along video.

STG finished: Board power phase: any moonboard benchmark, kilterboard 6A @ 40°. Strictly speaking NO, but I did achieve the meta-goal of improving my power & confidence on steep boards

STG: plan autumn sport trip, assuming no delta 4th wave / 3rd lockdown
STG: Summer 2021: Fill out my couple-of-goes pyramid around the 6c-ish level before moving back onto harder projects. 
MTG: Autumn 2021 sport trip. Ditch the lockdown weightbelt (3 to 5 kgs) beforehand and get fit 
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: rest
T: Attempt at a kilter board session: hopeless. Immediately apparent that I wasn't anywhere near recovered from Sunday. Bailed early.
W: 
T: 45 minutes bike
F: Return of the humid sticky heat. A bit of a struggle to even motivate myself out the door, but managed to do so for one last moonboard attempt. Not a terrible session (unlike Tuesday) - managed a couple more 6A+'s, but no benchmarks. Abundantly clear that this training cycle has run its course and it's time to shift focus.

S: half an hour shoulder mobility & stability. Have been neglecting this lately in favour of actually going climbing, but it will do no harm to start picking it back up again

S: Plankenstein North. Big approach march in search of shade and coolness in the Bavarian Alps. Was climbing with a friend who has hardly been out since before lockdown, so we needed decent easy routes for him of which there were plenty. I was a a bit frustrated because the harder things I had my eye on were totally wet, but the day was redeemed when the last 6a+ slab we did turned out to be an absolute classic - 40 metres sustained on perfect rock, difficult enough to be engaging without being stressful, snatched from the jaws of an oncoming thunderstorm that kicked in just as I was lowering off. And in any case, a day out in the mountains with a friend is always a good thing per se.

^ AeroPow, not AeroCap. I suspect AeroCap is probably being maintained by ledge shuffling and dithering whilst placing gear.

Cheers Alan.

Quiet week for me due to family commitments. One big session on Tuesday which should keep me ticking over.

Tue

• 5sec Frenchies 2,2,2
• 10x pulls on the Woody. Managed the 6c+ project in four goes. Had 3 pulls on the RHS which needs a lot more work. Flashed a weird 4c+ that I’ve been stumped with for 2 weeks then got shut down again on its RHS. Good session.
• 6x Campus Ladders (Set 1: 45s,Set 6: 15s)
• 3x 8,7,6 RTO Push-ups 
• TRX Core Routine
• Ab Rollout 3x 8

Thu

• 6x IYTs
• 5 pulls on the Woody. Did a 6b second try but wasn’t feeling great so bimbled around the bouldering circuits for a while. Bit of a none-session. Suspect I overstrained on Tuesday so still feeling a bit sore.

Got a trip planned to Pembroke this week which will be my first outdoor climb in 3 months! I feel like I’ve been fairly consistent with training so should hopefully climb some good routes.

Have a good week.

As long as you can cope mentally with the sea cliff (lite!) atmosphere, Pembroke should be pretty much ideal for the physically trained with limited time on rock. 

Hi Clubland. Thanks for the stats Alan -away this week so no further goes on Jack the Smuggler -very psyched to get back on it.

An ok week -dropped two sessions (1 x core and 1 x fingerboard) but had two extra climbing sessions.

Week 32:

M: Board session. Hard problems (although not as hard as they used to be, need to create some new hard problems!) and circuits (including 5 sec hand 'hovers' above each hold on every other circuit).

T: Fingerboarding.

W: Trail run. 10.2km, 338m vert, 6:02/km.

T: Climbing. Mini soloing sesh at  Park Nab -funny sesh at great little micro-crag. A bunch of easies then backed off two HSs (one felt committing, one had a bird in the crack) but cruised Bowstring (HVS 5a) 

F: Rest

S: Climbing. Another little exploratory sesh Roseberry Topping. Highlight being some techy fingercrack moves on Havago (VS 5a) (more bouldering than soloing really).

S: Trail run. 15.7km, 262m vert, 5:46/km. Nice fast (for me!) foray along part of the Cleveland Way.

Week 32:

M: Rest

T: Fingerboard

W: Run

T: Board

F: Rest

S: Climb

S: Run

STG (End August): cutting it fine for these!

Eliminator (V4) and Yates' Layaway (f6B+) 

Grid Iron (6c) and Jack the Smuggler (7a)

Red Square (E2) and Black Wall (E1 5b)

Edale Skyline

2021 Goals:

35 E-points -currently miles off this, need to get out more.

Run 30km vert and 1000km -got a LOT to do to get these, but heading in the right direction!

This is really very impressive (I had another go on the Moonboard at Rockover the other night and couldn’t do a single 6a+

Thanks Alan. Yes Autumn planning is difficult and a little stressy. But it's first world problems. That being said i will be very grumpy if i don't get to go!

An odd week which has caused me to pull my socks up and have a bit more discipline:

M - Regen hangs and mobility

T - Rest

W - 55 degree board - 5C, 6B and 6B+. New heights achieved there. Still can't do the other 6B though....

Aero Pow - 2.30 first set. Big improvement. I'm not sure if i've physiologically improved or if i'm just learning how long i can hold on for when i think i'm pumped already.

T - Rest - feeling a bit jaded

F - Castell Helen A State of Saturation (HVS 5a) Abbed in to 30 mph winds. It was very atmospheric. I kind of crashed afterwards and we bailed. Fell asleep in the van (i wasn't driving) and was washed out for the rest of the day. A lesser known climb that was totally 3*. Recommended.

S - Carnaddau walk as a 'rest day'. About 1000m ascent and 8-9 miles of walking. Totally restful.

S - Chapel Head Scar - Electric Warrior (7b). Still not feeling 100%. Put the clips in and had a burn. I gave up at the crux as i was totally spent. Nothing in the fingers at all. It turned out i wasn't. I just had numb fingers from the crozzles. I couldn't feel a thing until all of a sudden the feeling returned and they were on fire and my psyche wasn't high so i gave up.

I've not been quite as 'on it' with my diet and supplementary training recently and Friday caught up with me. Lesson learned. Upping calories and protein and i feel much better already. There was no weight loss plan or anything i think i just wasn't taking enough in. 

Sorting this out and paying a bit more attention to detail should see me through to the holiday in OK form i hope.