UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Hi all, looks like most people that were ill last week are on the road to recovery now and training/climbing seems to be returning to normal.  Some big person numbers sneaking in to this week’s sends too.  Great work all round.

Biscuit – sorry to hear about the A4 injury, at least is coinciding with a heavy work period rather than some time off and some stunning weather.

Mattrm – Did you lose your mojo for running this week or did life just get in the way? For your walking/climbing sessions maybe a regular slot that is sacred time that’s never used for anything else would help you with consistency?

AJM – I feel your pain r.e. illness at home, sounds very much like me last week.  Autumn colds this year feel like they are lingering longer than usual.  Hopefully Chez AJM is feeling better this week.

Ross Barker – Sounds like Rigpa is almost there, well done for keeping it going there, it’ll come!  Big Al looks nails (and high) which is why its not on my aims list either.  Good progress on Tcrack, sound like that’s another one lined up ready to send next session.  Have you been on Jerry’s traverse yet? That would be an obvious target if you’ve not done it.

Steve Claw – great work on Crimson Dynamo, the first of any grade always feels special but I think E6 feels very special. Especially impressed that you only worked the start bit, a gold star for effort there.

Si dH – sounds like some sensible moves to avoid injury there.  Sometimes it’s what we don’t do that improves us the most.

Tyler – for a week of ‘malingering’ you still got two runs and two wall sessions in.  Don’t be too hard on yourself.

Liam P – the epic training goes on.  Take care not to push it too hard just before you are able to get out again.  End in sight now…

AlanLittle – congrats on Creation 2010 and good work on building fitness with other mileage, looking forward to hearing about this weeks trip ticks.

Ally Smith – some massive hangs there (have you had your tendons surgically replaced with titanium wires!?).  Did you have chance to try any of the moves on the new >7 line?

Tom Green – Masson bites back after your onsight of Chelly Express last week!  Do you know which line Whitewall is at the end of Guilty Picks?  I wasn’t sure if it went up the centre of the wall on the left or whether you did what looks like a hard move over the overlap to gain the centre of the wall on the right?

The sheep – standard consistency there.  Where is good for trail running near Leicester?  I went to uni in Leicester and we often used to run at Bradgate park but other than that we were mostly on the pavement.

Derek Furze – looks like you are doing a good job of keeping everything ticking over even with a busy work week. Well done.

Cheers SSB!

I'd tried it a bit a few years ago when I was definitely not capable, I've still got utter crap endurance and I'm prejudiced against traverses - so I might give it a try once I've finished T Crack, but not rushing to it any time soon.

Decent week from me. Not much volume, but a good Moonboard session, and a lovely play in the sun at Burbage.

Last Week:

M - Sore shoulders. 2.3 mile walk.

T - Still a wee bit sore, generally just a bit under the weather, am I officially old yet? 2 mile walk.

W - 2 mile walk. Moonboard power hour, couple of hardish things, "Matching" and "Snapback". Contrast baths.

T - Rest. Contrast baths.

F - Rest.

S - Burbage North. Pleasant day with mates followed by the pub! Would've been nice to get on some harder things but was chuffed to get Safe Bet (f6C) in the evening lights.

S - Rest.

Next Week:

M - Gym.

T - Rest.

W or T - Gym (or Rigpa if the conditions improve)

F - Rest.

S, S - Outdoor punting.

Goals:

Rigpa.

Suavito.

T-Crack.

Thanks SSB, I was chuffed as well, as although it wasn't all onsight, it definitely wasn't a headpoint either.

Its been all about the boulders this week, and even though the cold illness has tried to make an appearance, I have put a good volume of training in.

M - Indoor Boulders 2hrs - 6x10s hangs +15kg (only getting to 7s) - Boulders around V6.

T - Indoor boulders 1hr (was supposed to be ropes but got distracted)

W - Rest

T - Indoor Boulders 2hrs - 6x10s hangs +15kg (only to 7/8s but feeling better). Woody board session 1hr until hands signalled time to reduce intensity.  Then play on new splatter board at Flashpoint which is a 20 degree splatter with routes on an app.  Problems are all very dynamic as it not so steep, good fun.  Feel a cold coming on.

F - Rest

S - Indoor Boulders 2hrs. 6x10s hangs +15kg (only to 7s feeling hard again) Woody board session recording the problems, worked through the list of 6C's to see what I could do, completed 4x6C's before running out of time

S - Rest.

Goals going forward:

- Get on top of the max hangs at +15kg as this is 120% BW. Ideally get to 20kg.

- Get steady on the Woody at 7A

- Score 220 in the boulder comp on Tues

- Sort out my diet

Does anyone have any thoughts of Dave Macleod's recent video?

I know he has been doing this for years, and respect his views on things.  I'm definitely not looking to loose weight (I'm 75kg at 6'3). However I have always struggled with food intolerances (possibly stress related) but definitely have issues with blood sugar (and energy) levels, timing of meals etc to not feel bloated.  I don't eat (much) junk food and am fairly healthy, I reduced unnecessary Carbs a few years ago and found that to be an improvement.  I'm not sure full Keto is the way, but I really want to take control of how I feel, and stop feeling bloated/unwell because I've just eaten, or dizzy because I have not.

Cheers SSB. Yeah, two weeks of Recovery Club left! Definitely reached my boredom threshold but not long until I can try out my strength gains. Looking forward to getting on the Board/Wall/Crag to see if there’s any noticeable difference.

Finally ticked my Max Hang goal. Just a Front Lever left but they feel miles away!

RecoveryClub Goals

• Recover 
• 3x3 5sFrenchies (tick)
• Max Hang 20s 20mm +12kg (tick)
• Bent Arm Planche (tick)
• Full 20x Core Circuit (tick)
• Front Lever (on One Leg FLs)
• Weight <175lb

Mon

• Max Hangs 5x 20s 20mm (+12kg/115%)
• BA Straddle Planche 8x 3s
• Planche Leans 5x 3s (34”foot-hand)
• LSit 3x 12s
• PPPU 3x 2 (5s hold top/bottom)
• Calf Raise 8x 40

Wed

• One Arm Scap Pulls 3x 8 (+7kg)
• Offset 3s Frenchies 4x 2/3 (23” offset)
• One Arm Eccentric 4x 1
• Max Hang One Arm 40mm Half Crimp 6x 8s (weight off with hand on rope)
• Half Straddle Front Lever 2x 10s (cut short due to a twinge in my lat)
• Calf Raise 10x 45

Fri

• Planche Leans 5x 3s (34” foot-hand)
• LSit 3x 15s
• Max Hang One Arm 40mm Half Crimp 10x 3s (hand on rope for support)
• BA Straddle Planche 10x 3s
• PPPU 3x 2.5 (5s hold top/bottom)

Sun

• Tuck Front Lever 3x 15s
• One Leg Front Lever 4x 15s
• LSit to 45degVSit Reps 5x 5
• BM Repeaters 3on/7off 2x 6c, 7a

Weight: 174lb

I’ve started listening to the Nugget Climbing Podcast and there’s a good episode about diet with Tom Herbert. Basically it’s resulted in me upping my calories through more protein. I feel like I’m recovering quicker, getting stronger and still staying under my goal weight. Worth a listen.

Have a good week!

Steve have you tried a FODMAP diet? It’s ridiculously prohibitive but the idea is you slowly reintroduce foods and see what triggers bloating/sickness etc.

Big training week by the way!

Mon + Tues. Nowt, still feeling whacked from illness. 

Wed. Lamp session out at burbage, conditions weren't great. Tried some old projects and didn't get far. Did manage Two Sloper Eliminate (f7A) though, not done this one before.

Thurs. 6km run, felt hard.

Fri. Rest

Sat. Dry tool session at Masson Lees, did the 3 new routes on the science slab to warm up. Totally didn't spot the drilled slots round the arete on the m6 and sketched up nothing on the right instead, amazed to get up clean. Pleased to then get Extended Picks - have got less friction (D7) first go. Then the highlight of the session... leading the 3 left most routes on Mount Chossmore (imagine placing trad gear in a sandpit then trying to tool up it) easy climbing but lots of fun.

Sun. Illness fatigue starting to subside. Enduro session on the steeper circuit board at the depot. 2mins rest after 6s and 3mins after 7s. 6a, 6b, 6c, 6c+, 7a+, 7b, 7b+(X), 7b (mega X), 7a+(just!), 6c+, 6c, 6b, 6a. Followed by 10mins continuous climbing and 3x10 press ups.

Hoping for near normal service next week and intended to be fully recovered after that. 

Cheers SSB. Mostly over active grot now, but lingering after effects a bit.

Monday - rest 

Tuesday - wall with miniAJM. Spent a bit longer on individual projects, ticked one right at the end and scoped/started a few others

Wednesday-Friday - rest. Not my finest hours for organisation - I thought about going to the wall Thursday after the kids were in bed but by the time I turned it into action it was booked up, and I failed to do even easy stuff like stretching to fill the gaps

Saturday - Cuttings. Spent a little while on Lightning Strike, which is one of the original Portland classic boulders. I’ve played on it before but never with much determination. 

After a juggy start sequences vary but there seem to be two main strands, you can either get into compression early with a big slap to get the left over the lip - something a bit like this  youtube.com/watch?v=1lSpHC7EiUU& - or you can work the right hand higher first - a bit like this  youtube.com/watch?v=XxQ8Fuh4qVw&

I have tried the second in the past but struggled getting the right hand high, difficulty locking deep enough on the left hand and right heel combo. This time I had a go at the first, and managed to do all but the last hard move that way, in bits. I feel like the second still ought to suit me more somehow since I suspect linking through the big slap out left would be hard, but we shall see!

After a reasonably encouraging session on that, albeit I tired quite quickly, I then went to try a *** 6C on my “why haven’t I…” list. It’s a direct eliminate on a 6B I’ve done before, eliminating a big hold out right. I couldn’t touch it! Felt like lightning strike would go faster, and I don’t envisage that being terribly easy for me! Reaching up and over with the right hand felt impossibly hard.

A tiring day out, I’d forgotten how much faff it is lugging kids clutter and pads round the boulder field.

Sunday - nothing. Spent a chunk of the day trying to insulate the loft hatch which was surprisingly hard work - a lot of faffing trying to do things above my head so quite a compromised position strength wise.

Thanks SSB. 

M: rest

T: morning - crimpd app hip / leg flexibility 'C' routine

W: morning - 3*30 second density hangs, then 5 sets of 3/6/9 hangs on a 23mm edge, the first set with bodyweight + 20 kg then the rest with bodyweight + 27 kg. Then 5*5 one arm scap pull-ups, the first set with light theraband assistance on left arm but none with right, then the rest with no assistance on left, adding 4.5kg to bodyweight on right. Good session.

T: rest

F: morning - 3*30 second density hangs then a session at the Hangar.  Did one white and worked on a few others (spent most of the time on a single problem but there was a big swing I couldn't quite hold.) Lots of try-hard anyway.

S/S: nothing - had lots of plans but haven't even been able to find an hour in/around parenting tasks. Had some grumbling in my upper right bicep, likely due to trying to hold that swing on Friday. Seems to have gradually subsided so hopefully will be ok.

Si

There's a definite trend developing but this week which I need to arrest.

M or T: Did some some sort of hill sprints on the treadmill, running for 250 meters at 12% incline.

W: Missed wall session because of work and anxiousness

T: Anxiousness (but not work) receded as it became certain we'd complete on the house we had an offer accepted on back in June

F: Completed on our new house! Going to be a bit busy (and skint) for a few months but we are moving to the edge of Eryri* (one car load at a time for the time being).

S: Treadmill: 7km total, 5 at 11km/h @2% incline.

S: One hour of continuous climbing at blochaus. Shocked but unsurprised by weakness on anything remotely steep.

*From an outdoor climbing PoV this is very positive but the lack of a climbing wall is a concern (apparently there are no plans to open the Plas y Brenin wall to the public), does anyone know if lamping is allowed/common in Parisellas cave - probably one for Ally? I also need suggestions for ever dry, sheltered and sunny alternatives to Malham.

STG: 2 x 7a  and/or 6c+ onsight in Leonidio.
MTG: 
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Having arrived in Leonidio late & tired last night after many miles of hairpins in the dark down the Peloponnese coast road, I opted for an actual rest day today.
T: Leonidio: Mars. Not a bad first day, although my attempt to break myself in gently to tufa climbing ended badly on Sinter Symphonie when I reached the end of the steep tuda section so mentally overwhelmed that I completely failed to see the obvious big non-tufa jug that would would have brought me safely though to the chains.

W: Leonidio: Love Ledge. Nice little newer sector where we stopped for a couple of warm-ups on the way to Theos, and ended up staying all day. Tried for the flash on Da Vinci Code (6c+) but was led astray by my mate's dodgy beta, so ended up taking a couple of goes.

T: Leonidio: Bella Vista. Found the classic of the crag, musical note 7a/+ Odin, too intimidating so instead had a play around on a hard but non-intimidating little ten metre bouldery number Killmist Onsight (7b+). This sadly turned out to involve a traverse on heavily "improved" two finger pockets. It might have been 7b+ pre pocket improvement but it certainly isn't now. 7a.

F: Rest day. More archaeology tourism: Nafplio, Tiryns, Mycenae. I am now the proud owner of a genuine Mycenaean vase, albeit it was made in Mycenae last week and not 3500 years ago.

S: Leonidio: Theos. Onsighted a couple of 6b+'s on conventional vertical grey rock, so pretty much back up to my pre-lockdown onsight level. Good. It took a while. Steep tufa classic Zeus was still a step too far outside my comfort zone though - I just couldn't bring myself to trust the polished footholds no matter how juggy the handholds are.

S: Leonidio: Agios Andreas. Pleasant little newer sector half an hour's drive up the coast. Onsighted Hannibal (6c+), which would have been my first ever 6c+ if it were anywhere near 6c+. It isn't. Pity. Good route though.

STG status: have redpointed two 7a's in the holiday so far, one of which however is a crappy little chipped boulder routelet. Can do better. Onsighted a "6c+" that definitely isn't, but I didn't know that when I tied in. Have fallen off a lot more times than I've voluntarily taken - v. good. In general I feel I've (finally) clawed my way back to somewhere near my pre-pandemic level of confidence and performance.

First impressions of Leonidio as a Kalymnos regular: it's very different. I find the town charming and am very much enjoying seeing a different aspect of Greece than touri-Masouri. The climbing so far is slightly underwhelming. Every sector I've been to has been good, but I haven't seen anything yet with the world class grandeur of the Grotta/Panorama or Olympic Wall. Would definitely come here again though.

Excellent news!

Lamping very very common at Parisella's cave over the winter months. I'm sure there are alternatives too as more moderate grades.

There was talk of a wall opening in Llandudno Junction a few years ago, but i'm not sure if the business plan survived covid...

Thanks for the stats SSB :-D

I did a few sections of the new ~7 from a rope/the ground whilst equipping but the steepness made shunting distinctly sub-optimal! Start is a nice 6B problem to a jug, with options to link from a couple of existing boulder problems for link-up heaven.

Week 45

M – Rest – stretching in front of gogglebox

T – Unplanned rest.

W – A dozen board problems 6B+ to 7A as warm-up. 5x5 on-the-minute lattice edge pull-ups. Bunch of shoulder rehab exercises. 3x8 leg raises.

T – Board warm-up, then Crimpd Max-hangs. BW+57kg. Hard, but managed it with 3min rest between reps instead of their 2min. Later, 10x “1on-1off” (actually 50s on/70s off) aero-cap board circuits on woods.

F – My wife’s birthday - nowt.

S – More shoulder rehab then celebratory pub lunch/family walk

S – James Bond at cinema whilst g-parents looked after Squiggle. Started to develop a mild temperature and felt wiped out for much of the day. 

Cheers, which Uni did you go to? I work at Leicester Uni and have done so for quite a while. 

Im lucky to live in a small village south of Leicester so most of the time i just go from my front door and head off on the network of footpaths around us. One of my favourite local spots is Croft Hill which has a seriously large quarry excavated into it. I believe the bottom of the quarry is below sea level. The older section of the quarry has a resident pair of Peregrine Falcons so its always a good excuse for a pause to stop and watch them 

Its been a funny week, motivation has found me in two very different ways. Buoyed up from last Sundays glorious 10k (coincidently starting at Bradgate as my daughter was run training there) I was on a definite positive high at the start of the week which went as follows;  

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim and 5k evening run. As the evening run is whilst my daughter swim trains i will be doing it every week, Monday and  Thursday as a measurement of progression. This evenings run was just to sort the route, also found i will need a head torch for part of it!

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and intervals in the evening, total distance 4k

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and then another 2km swim late afternoon whilst my eldest did swim training with me

Thursday, 0.5km swim and then stretch class at lunchtime. Motivation then arrived in a negative way. Found out one of my best mates had a heart attack earlier in the day. Thankfully not a major one but he is still in hospital. Frightening as we are the same age and whilst we have differing fitness levels now it wasn't long ago he was doing marathons and triathlons. It certainly gave some impetus to push the evening 5k run!

Friday, 2km lunchtime swim

Weekend spent at the in-laws so nothing to report apart from a lot of time spent in the car   

Thanks SSB for the work.

Getting back there I think, though work is intense at the moment and now includes a weekly trip down to Bedford Monday-Tuesday, which messes up opportunities a bit.

Mon away

Tuesday 5 * max hangs at 13.6kg on 25mm edge, hip stretching and 60 push ups

Wed  100 pull ups in pyramid sets at one minute intervals.  Last ten on fingertips.  The first 100 in a session since starting back for Autumn.

Thursday 4 sets of 7:3 repeaters on 30mm edge, 5,5 km run, 50 push ups and stretching

Friday enforced rest as work was non-stop

Sat  5* max hangs.  Inspired by Ally, I tried stepping up the weight each set, so progressed 13.6, 15.9, 18.2, 20.5 and 22.8 kg - all ok with good form though last one at 8 seconds rather than ten.  50 push ups and stretching.

STG - need to get out or to the wall each week, but time has been challenging this week.  Planning Friday this week, which barring any emergencies coming up should be fine...

Thanks all for tips on the other thread (weighted hangs).

Thanks

There should still be a few moves, if not problems, I can do in my current state. If that's true its just a case of putting one after the other until....

There was a wall there which is now closed (according to Trip Advisor) there is also the Boathouse in Llandudno but doesn't look suitable. Looks like a home facility and LOT of discipline is required

Other lantern options in the vicinity:

The Breck Road Start (V5) and thereabouts

Split Traverse (V3) and surrounds

Pill Box Wall for fingery instead of thuggy

Manor Crag - not been, but could be an option?

Away from the Orme, I'd have thought Rhiw Goch would probably be ok with a lantern? Only walked up there once for a recce but seem to remember it is fairly hidden behind trees from the road etc. Roadside, showerproof etc so convenient for an evening.

No idea of accepted practice in Snowdonia for lanterning in more open locations. Boulders in the Pass or Ogwen would be popular lantern venues if they were in the Peak I think.

Thank you both. To be honest it’s somewhere to train rather than somewhere to boulder per se, so Parisellas probably meets all my requirements anyway, I just need to form a habit of going before the initial psyche wears off (and also build a decent home training facility)

Rhiw Goch is a fair shout but as everything tops out it might not be good for if it's actively raining - but dries pretty quick and can't imagine lamps would be an issue. A lot of people lamp at the Cromlech, though, so could be a decent idea if you like the sharp stuff!

Thanks, just listened to it. Although lots of what he covers is well known, the way its explained and the direction he goes is really good. He seems to really know his stuff and can explain it better than others.

He says 40cal per kg, which is 3000cal a day for me, thats lots of cake!

Hope that's tongue in cheek?

3000cal is a tiny amount, think you mean kcal?

And if so, more protein not cake! 

Now you've found your max effort for >7s = bodyweight plus 22.8kg you can perform your follow up sessions at 90% intensity for 10s. 

Weight to add = (0.9 * (bodyweight + 22.8kg)) - bodyweight. 

Do six sets 10s with 3 min rest between sets. Expect it to feel bloody hard the first time! 

:-D 

Rhiw Goch Boulders is very very sharp and IMHO not the grade range Tyler is looking to train on with just a couple of 6C-7A things.  Worth a trip for sure, but not as a regular training.  

Definitely - it's important to get the balance right, I think especially if changing diet from what your body is used to. There's a definite trend to encourage more energy intake amongst climbers at the moment and in the last few years, and for some I recognise it's necessary but for others it definitely isn't. I personally took one of these podcasts (from Steve Bechtel, who I have a lot of time for) a bit too much to heart 3-4 years ago, I started to eat more than I should in a belief my training would work better, and instead I just put on weight (fat). It was definitely a mistake and I've still not lost it again (more difficult with kids tbf.) I'm over a stone heavier than I was in 2016. (Edit to add, this has also led to more angst over my diet than I ever had before when I was just happy eating less, and I think made me more injury prone as my weight has fluctuated a bit more.) So, I would really caution everyone to understand their own body and not blindly follow a podcast (however many say the same thing), whether it's telling you to eat more or less. If someone has a diet that is keeping them healthy and their training is showing improvements them I really think they should stick with it. I'm glad the change is working for Liam though!

Edited a bit

Sorry, yes I mean kcal, and yes definitely a joke.

Yeah I took that part with a pinch of salt as it’s 3,160KCals for me! I managed to eat 300g of protein yesterday and was still only 2,450KCals so would be hard to hit that number and still eat clean. I’m trying this protein increase for another couple of weeks to see what effect it has on my weight. Seems to be helping recovery and my strength is increasing but I don’t want any major weight gain. An almost impossible balance!

Agree with Si though. Making small dietary changes then looking out for any effect (positive and negative) is the way to find what works for you - rather than going all in with the latest recommendation.

I’d definitely give a FODMAP diet a go, just to find any triggers. The usual suspects are gluten & lactose which were sadly the cause of my bloating/sickness (along with onions!) Finding them is easy, cutting down is the hard part when you love beer and ice cream!

Hi All. Thanks for statting SSB.

Had an involuntary lay-off from tooling (just circumstances getting in the way) -so raring to get back to Masson, although not sure this week is going to give much chance of that.

White wall goes up the wall to the left of the arete. Think the wall to the right of the arete is harder -the finish of The Prow (M11). Take a look at Adam Mc's epic new PDF guide to Masson tooling.

Week 45:

A bit crap -only did half of planned sessions.

M: Crippling core DOMS -as in, the worst I've ever had, could barely get out of a chair without using my arms!

T: Still next level DOMS -did a few token wrist curls to feel like I'd done something!

W: Rest/long work day.

T: Fingerboarding. TRX. Prehab. 

F: Trail run. 11.6km, 327m vert, 6:55/km.

S: Bouldering at Almscliffe. Started strong then seemed to fade -not sure why I got so tired! Highlight was Backhander (f6A). Lowlight was getting nowhere near The Flying Arete (f6B) -so frustrating!

S: Family walk -turned it in to training by putting a load of weights in a rucksack! 

Week 46:

155 mins running.

1 x climbing

2 x core and strength

3 x prehab

STGs (end 2021):

Heavens Above (TICK!)

Chelly Express (TICK!)

White wall (M8) 

Run all segments of the Cleveland Way (3/9)

MTGs (end March 22):

Lots of Scottish mixed at VI and VII

Something long, hard and suffery in the Alps.

tbh, I reckon I could step up from this still (did so earlier in the year), but I wanted to keep the session manageable as I am still working back into things.  However, I will have a go at doing the six sets at 90% next time I do these.  If it doesn't feel 'bloody hard' then I will have to explore the limits further!  

Not normally the place for this but I'll be out fondling some Gritstone on Sunday and would like to extend the invite to anyone and everyone here who fancies joining. I'm very psyched right now!

Hi Ross, I'm hoping to head to some grit on Sunday with my eldest in tow. Any ideas where you're going yet? I was thinking Widdop area but it could be possible to take him further south.

I've arranged to go sport climbing on Saturday so probably won't be on the grit Sunday. Post where you are headed though. Might come and walk the kids past and be sociable if it's somewhere close, would be nice to put faces to names. 

Was originally thinking RHS/Cratcliffe, but could go up to Wimberry or around that area if it's close enough to you. Widdop might be a bit too far for a day trip, unfortunately.

Normally any of the mentioned venues would be good for me but I guess I’m in Wales for the next few weekends. When I get more settled I’ll try and arrange a meet up over there if anyone is interested 

That would be great fun! Wales is about the same distance as the Peak from me so l would be keen for that.

PMd you.

Edit, In case it didn't work, I'm keen for Wimberry and possibly North Wales (that relies on if I can drop my son with my mum for the day! ). Keep me in the loop with what you plan to do but don't rely too much on me in case I have to leave early for him.

Thanks for the stats. Yes that's true enough. And it does seem to be a tweak rather than an 'injury'. 

M - Too busy to train today and feeling rough. Did some BFR

T - Did some finger rehab - no gym as it's closed for refurb.

W - Boulder UK - Good session. 3x V7's. Felt rough later so didn't do planned aerobic work

T - Had a nice stretch but nothing else - work.

F - Kendal - routes. OK session. Kept it easy and steady. Nothing above 6c.

S - Swim and some hangs. Quite enjoying the swimming now but i can't get my breathing right and the fish keep scaring me.

S - Lancaster wall - winter league problems. Felt like a good session. 20 problems done out of 30 and called it there as i was tired. Did 4 sets of 5 squats with 85kgs after as they've got a nice squat rack there.

I am still feeling a bit rough. It keeps coming and going. Very annoying. But i had a really good session midweek and i'm feeling pretty robust in general. Just a bit run down. It's not a huge surprise as i'm working really long days at the minute but not for much longer. Job change in a couple of weeks which will free up some time and energy and allow me to develop the climbing physio side more.   

Use the energy availability calculator on his website. 

I've been on 500kcals a day more for 3 weeks ish now. That's about 10,000kcals. I've found it hard to eat sometimes. But the scales say i weigh the same and have actually dropped some fat?

Not sure if i feel better as i'm in a really busy life time atm so i'm pretty tired anyway.

STG - 6a and improve diet

L/MTG - TBD

M - Rest

T - Climbing wall session

W - S - Rest

Can't really remember what I did.  Definitely did a climbing wall session on Tuesday.  That is supposed to be the day that I go down the wall, unless my mate can't make it.  Sadly he sometimes has to travel for his job, so that clobbers things.

Interesting and I see what this is getting at - 90% of the total rather than 90% of the maximum added weight.  That would put me at adding 13.5kg, which won't feel 'bloody hard', because I've been doing that routinely as I have been building back up.  I think this shows me that I haven't found my max yet.  I might set a weight somewhere a bit nearer to +22.8kg and see how I go.  Mind you, been too busy to train lately!

I think your supposed to keep maximum intensity by making sure the weight is enough that you just make it to 10s with max effort. 

If you manage all 6 reps to 10s ok then increase the weight until you just about can't.

 The original Eva Lopez study had the weight for sets of 10s max hang defined as the weight you could hold for 13s.

Evidently if you're competing 6 sets easiy with ~13kg then your true maximum is probably heavier.  IMHO you're not looking to fail in these sets at 90% - you're looking to stress and cause adaptations rather than potentially cause injury by going to failure every time you do a fingerboard session.