UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_806-751329

Hello! I'm your new stats-man for the next 3 months or so. I guess that'll tide us over until the end of the year. I can't remember if anyone said they were keen to take over afterwards, but 1st January 2023 falls on a Sunday so it lines up quite nicely!

Somerset swede basher: Very productive S&C session, and some good hillwalking to keep fit. Glad you managed to meet up with Tom on what sounds like a cracking day out. I'm not much of a sport climber myself but a 7b onsight is good going. Back to work now/soon, any plans for the Autumn?

Ally Smith: Solid training week, three board sessions and some intriguing grip-lift-training! Keeping on the PE training for gorge projects?

Derek Furze: "Up the excellent but steep headwall on hidden holds", sounds like a well-earned onsight, good effort! Great to see you're keeping up the training amidst a busy work week. Embrace the Moonboard, then we can both get making warmups for Ally to downgrade

AlanLittle: Unfortunate that you've not been able to find the time or space to make out the training. Do you think there are ways you'll be able to squeeze in training around busy life as time goes on, or does it just take too big a toll? Good to see some circuit training and that you feel you're moving well. I've not been to Kalymnos, but from what I gather it's very 3D with lots of features? Hopefully good movement and creative rests will yield fun even if you can't get your endurance where you want it.

Liam P: Congratulations on the 133%BW goal, looks like some good progression to reach that point. How long are you planning on the repeater phase, or just playing it by feel? One-armers are a great party trick, and if you have a pulley you can train it pretty scientifically too. Might be worth looking into antagonists to keep the shoulders and elbows in top shape as you ramp up the weight?

AJM: Fab trip write-up! Glad you're pleased with the flashes and onsights and generally getting some good climbing days in, all the better with the family involved. Top effort to MrsAJM on her first lead in yonks, as well!

Randy: Good week in terms of training and climbing volume! How do you find that core the day before climbing goes for you? Whenever I've done core-specific stuff I tend to get a DOMS which would kill me if I had to climb the next day. Maybe I need more volume! Nice to see you're getting the sleep in and keeping realistic and optimistic about the pullup gains. Never been to Frankenjura, but I guess it's time to put a little extra focus on pockets and open-handed holds?

Tom Green: Looks like a decent week despite the food poisoning! Project progress is great, and what looks like a well earned E2 at Malham. As the new stats man, I shall formally allow you to claim water-skiing as core training! Glancing at your 2022 goals, you've still not been to Caley yet? I guess in the summer it can be a bit of a jungle...

Steve Claw: Good knowledge on Avon. Hope you've had a good holiday!

SteveJC94: Congratulations on the wedding, shame about the cold. Also congratulations on the house! Hopefully you can squeeze something in to keep ticking over but there's no harm in taking a week off.

Tyler: Sounds like a great Sunday out on the ropes! Good running and DIYing, shame about the midges in the pass. Can't stand those little suckers! I hope you've thoroughly sprayed SSB down with some beta on Cave Route RH!

biscuit: Hope the covid-recovering is going steadily. Hope the weather is kind to you in Lundy, if it's anything like other coastal areas the rain can often just pass over quickly instead of sticking around too much.

the sheep: Sorry to hear about the back! Glad you're on the mend and know how to move forwards, and seeming to be in optimistic spirits about the situation.

I hope I've not missed anybody out, feel free to publicly berate me if I've forgotten you!

Yes, I get the impression that anything you actually get up on a Moonboard is automatically given 'soft'.  Anyway, a good club on the road to one-armers which should be a laugh.

Not much actual training, but two trips out.  Squeezed a trip to Pot Hole between work and did the main routes and part of a chilled day - includedCeba (E1 5b) and The Dog (HVS 5b) amongst others.  Good fun.  Then managed a session on Harpur Hill - pleased to finish on Calci-Mauve (6b+) which I failed on last year, having done it years ago.  It went okay, but I would reflect that it was quite a lot of 5c and often above the bolts, with no obvious holds to go for - quite hard and felt like a pretty typical E3.  Strangely encouraged by this!

Lots of work coming up this week, but starting on the fingerboard again tomorrow.  Very keen to keep climbing when I can and happy with my recent approach (just give it a go).  Feel fairly close to my old self, though not got the record to demonstrate this yet!

...and thanks for stepping up Ross.  Happy to pick it up in January if nobody else fancies a go.

I’m not sure he really wanted it and I’m certain he didn’t need it but I can’t help myself, if you hint in my presence you’re going to get a torrent of beta!

This week has been dismal, a solitary run was it. It was with a ‘proper’ runner who has completed the BG multiple times and did all the Wainwrights in two weeks a couple of winters ago so it’s always inspiring to train alongside people who are so much above your level. He had the decency to come home sweating but I did take every short cut and made him stick to the longer route.

Big news is I had my consultation with the knee/hip surgeon. We decided on no treatment (although I will look into some plasma thing he mentioned) but the scans show arthritis in the knee cap joint which has a knock on effect to the quads (i.e. the muscle is weakening). I was optimistic with this diagnosis as it meant how much exercise I do is dependant on my pain tolerance but since then my knees have been pretty painful all the time so that might not amount to much and I’ve still to see anyone about my ankle and toes. May have to rethink goals. 

Log shelter coming on which is on the critical path to getting a board in the annex. Currently on holiday in Portugal so probably won’t do much this week, even walking around today was uncomfortable but there is a gym here ….

Thanks for stepping up Ross, look forward to seeing your take on all things stats! A very busy week for me but managed to squeeze in a couple of quick sessions:

M/T - Rest

W - HB Max Hangs Testing. 20mm edge, half crimp 7 second hangs. Max added weight = BW + 20kg). Total weight = 84.5kg (131% BW) so I've dropped 8% from my pre-holiday max hang testing. Seems like another fingerboard cycle is on the cards...

T - Rest

F - HB Max. 20mm edge, half crimp, 6 x 10 second hangs at 90% of max

S/S - Rest (ish - lots of heavy lifting in the house so I'm classing that as a strength workout!)

Plan for next week, time permitting, is some more light fingerboarding to get some strength back now that the holiday period's ended. 

Cheers Ross, and thanks for taking over on the stats! Yeah just playing it by feel. I’ve tried sequencing my training before and it doesn’t really work for me. If I’m making gains then I like to milk it for all its worth, reach diminishing returns and then switch to something else. PE is also woeful so repeaters should build some much needed stamina.

Mon

• Repeaters 6x 7:3 (2x 20mm 4FD, 2x 20mm HC)

Tue

• Pinch Block 5x 7s LH(15.5kg)/RH(17.5kg)

Wed

Leg Rehab

• Single Leg Calf Raises 5x 20 (11kg)
• Hamstring Curls 3x 15 (11kg)
• Single Leg Leg Press 3x 10 (L 50kg)
• Leg Extensions 3x 15 (L 32kg R 15s Iso Hold)
• Hanging Leg Wipers 12/12/10
• Hanging Leg Raises 3x 10
• Hanging Knee Raises 3x 12
• Back Extensors 5x 10

First session of OAP Club!

• Free hand on shoulder - 1 rep
• Free hand on bicep - 2 reps
• Free hand on wrist - 6 reps

Randy/Derek - quite like this protocol as it doesn’t require anything fancy. Keen to see what you try!

Not to worry, I have a particular temporary situation at the moment where having lots on at home coincides the end of a rather intensive training course for work. Will be back to normal-ish soon.

Meanwhile ...

STG: Book Kalymnos trip with my son for early October
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    Bike errands around town, 1½ hours in total
T:    Bike 3 hours afternoon outing in the woods
W:    Wall, Boulderwelt. Light bouldering to warm up, then circuits. A weak session, in which the most training value was probably getting soaked on the bike on the way there & back - character building mental training. 
T:    
F:    Alpine-lite multipitch outing. KG-Weg on the Alpspitze, 8 pitches supposedly V+ but involving a couple of pitches of water runnel slabs, on which frankly I can't tell much difference between "IV+" and "VII-", it all feels equally precarious. Thoroughly fun day out.
S:
S: Bike one hour evening outing in the woods

Hi All. Thanks for kicking off a new block of stats, Ross. Especially thanks for counting my spurious non-exercise sessions as training!

Week 35:

An ok week. Managed 6/7 planned sessions.

M: Rest.

T: Elbow and shoulder prehab. (Need to really focus on elbows as I start to up the strength training again).

W: Fingerboard, strength, prehab. 

T: Bouldering at Harmers Wood and Helsby. Nothing too hard but really chuffed to get my last Harmers arete done (coincidentally called Harmer's Arete (f5+)!) -I'd been putting this off until a drought, so this summer left me without any excuses!

F: Trail run. 15.7km, 438m vert, 6:35/km.

S: Fingerboard, strength, prehab.

S: Nowt.

Week 36:

M: Prehab

T: Run

W: Fingerboard & Strength

T: Bouldering if I can find anywhere dry??

F: Run & Prehab

S: Fingerboard & Strength

S: Prehab

STG -end Sept:

Climb at four of my 'climb here more' crags (Ticked! 5/4).

Climb six of my local to-do list.

Allakazam.

Ultra distance run. 

Three of my big mountain day list.

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees). 

MTG -end Dec:

Two big alpine routes.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg. (need to recalibrate this... unrealistic given how I've dropped off the training wagon over summer)

Max Hangs: 95kg. (as above!)

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 4/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 3/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 5/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 2/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

At least two big, classic alpine goals

Thanks!

A rest week this week, from climbing at least (the weekend was fairly busy!).

Travelling all Monday, then working and catching up with my parents Tuesday and Wednesday, arrived home very late Wednesday night.

Then Thurs - Sun there was a lot of time spent catching up on life, catching up on admin after the best part of a month away from home, getting ready for the start of term for miniAJM, and all that.

Back on it again this week.

Thanks for the stats as well as the spot on Sunday afternoon :-D

Week 35

BHM – Nowt.  Family BBQ within sight of Almscliff, but no chance to go for a play.

T – Board warm-up, then try hard session. Got very close on a hard project; dropping the final hold.

5x5 bench press @60kg. Bar core A.

W – 20.3 km flat n’ fast (43min).

T – 3” Saxon bar lifts. Max singles. 81, 86, 91 fail, then 91kg success. Might be a few kg more to squeeze out, but think that’s a good starting point for a series of 5x5 sessions to gain some more pinch strength. 80% of max 5RM (which is ~80% of 1RM) = ~66kg for 5x5?

F – Ride: 25.4km / 52min.

S – Disturbed night with Squiggle running a temperature and vomiting up her dinner the evening before. A gentle country garden walk in the morning, followed by 3 hours of gardening.

S – A morning of child wrangling, then back to the gorge after lunch. Far warmer than the weather forecast predicted.  Re-worked Sunset Sit – Jordan’s kneebar beta didn’t work for me, but my original beta was still solid, and managed to repeat it with “Thug Life” as a different exit = Sunset Life (f7C+)  Moved around into the gorge and managed Broken Bones (f7B) (7A+?).  I was rushing by then and failed to complete the sit start. Home in time for family Sunday roast.

Decent week from me. Finished off an old project, finally had another fingerboard session, but had a risky Moonboard session which could've been a poor decision but it doesn't seem to have worsened the tweak.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - No-hangs. The 19mm edge feels quite dry-fireable with the 7mm shim. However, I can turn it upside down and then it's a 23mm ish edge reduced to 16mm ish. 6x10s with 3 min rest, 32kg.

T - Rest. Weigh-in at 77.4kg.

F - Moonboard. I said I'd give it a rest but alas I am weak. Made a new one, "Get That Up There" and tried a couple other hard things too.

S - Rest.

S - Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge) with Ally. Squared away Firestarter (V6) pretty quickly, faffed about on Panty's Down (f7A+) again with some alternative beta, then boshed out Grinnin' in Your Face (f6C+) in a couple goes with good beta.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - No-hangs.

W - Rest.

T - Moonboard? Left middle and ring still a touch tweaky, so maybe shouldn't...

F - Rest.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Bulletproof fingers.

The Mentalist.

Thanks Ross, and thanks for stepping up to the plate with the stats. Autumn plans include: continue to support my partner on his project for as long as it's dry on Saturday mornings then make him climb some grit once it gets wet! This week I've been mostly ’getting my Ken Wilson on'.

Mon AM. Dewerstone session with Mrs. Swede. Went and ticked off Climbers' Club Ordinary (VS 4b) (classic rock tick). Mrs. Swede hasn't climbed on rock for a few years now I think so it was a bit of an eye opener for her. She wasn't a fan of the traverse bits but did well and got it clean.

Mon PM and Tues. 42km walk along the SW coast path Plymouth to Looe with a wild camp at Rame Head along the way. Relatively big bags.

Wed. Rest 

Thurs. Met Steve Claw for an epic session at Berry Head. I've never really done much sea cliff climbing. Only abbed in once or twice and I can only think of one hanging belay in the past. My main conclusion is that it's terrifying! We started with Moonraker (HVS 5a) (hard rock tick) which was cool, the hardest bit was probably traversing in when we abbed down too far left. Then the hugely intimidating Dreadnought (E3 5c) (extreme rock tick). Steve did a great job leading the first pitch. Didn't really enjoy the sea grease at the end of the traverse but an amazing and humbling experience.

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Finger board repeaters, pull ups, press ups 

Sun. 23km on the road bike and a couple of here walk with the kids (grouse, white edge, curbar, froggatt)

Hi Ross, thanks for taking over the stats for the next months. I've never had a problem with doing core the day before climbing and i generally don't find my core exercises too strenuous and i usually recover quickly form them. Not sure if you need more volume, but maybe more consistency. I've been doing regular core training for over 20 years now (way longer than i've been climbing), so i am quite used to it.

Don't underestimate the amount of nasty crimps that you find in the Frankenjura, but putting a little bit of extrafocus on pockets won't hurt. Luckily i've managed to go outside to the Frankenjura this week, so of course the best training for Frankenjura is climbing there

Recap last week

Mon: Rest

Tues: Gym bouldering session; flashed a bunch of 6bs after warmin up. Then did a 6c after a few goes, and finally send after a couple more tries the purple 6c+ project, which was giving me a headache last week. Afterwards i did a couple of tries on the endurance 6c+ yellow project from last week and made it 3 times to the second to last hold. 10 min break, weighted pullups + 10kg with 3 min rest; 4x10 all with good form. Quite a positively surprising session; did not felt 100% recovered from the weekend, but nevertheless had a lot of power. Apart from that, some small beta changes on the two projects from last week definately contributed to the progress.

Wed: L-Sit 30s, 17s; 15-20s Handstand without any wall support 2x12 pike pushups,15 lunges, 3 pistol squats with each leg, 30 pushups and 45s V-Sit Up; two fitness goals for this year ticked in one session, form could have been slightly better for both L-Sit and Handstand but it was not terrible, maybe good enough for full execution points in P.E at school, but 3/10 deduction in a gymnastic contest

Thur: Gym bouldering session. 6c boulder after a couple of tries, then did the yellow 6c+ endurance project on the first go of the day, did another powerful 6c boulder on slopers after a couple of tries, cool down on some easier problems; 10 min P; weighted pullups +12kg with 3 min rest, 4x10, slightly bad form and 100% max out effort on the last 2 reps of the last set, but chin went above the bar ;. Felt a little bit sore before the sessioon and did not expect too much and then really surprised myself, especially with the pullups as this was the first session with a bigger weight

Fri: Rest

Sat:  Back to the long term project Slimline (8a+) after 6 months break. Conditions were not bad but also not great as it was slightly humid. I've needed some time to relearn the beta for the moves and basically did a limit bouldering session on a rope. In the end i could do all the moves individually but could not do any real link-ups. All-in all i felt slightly stronger, especially in the shoulder, but also had the feeling that the specific pocket power quickly vanished during the session. I probably need some more time on the route to get used to these pockets again, but nevertheless a good start after such a long break

Sun: Rest

Review last weeks goals: 

• Get at least 7 hours sleep on every night - Check
• 4x10 weigthed pullups + 10kg with 3 min Rest - Check and even did 4x10 with 12kg
• Send the yellow project from the last gym session - Check

Goals next week: 

• Take a deload week, reduce volume and only do 2 climbing sessions to give my body a rest
• Focus on good technique when doing easy problems in the gym

A very successfull week, with two yearly goals done. I was quite sure that i would get the 30s L-Sit soon, but i had lost a little bit faith in the handstand, after not improving for quite some time. Hence, i am very pleased with that and it shows that consistency pays off in the long run; you just need to keep trying.

Apart from that some strong progress with the weigthed pullups, my power endurance is also improving and i could notice some positive effect from having stronger shoulders on my outdoor project, though it was not a huge difference. Nevertheless, i could also feel some fatique building up, so i think it is a smart decision to take a step back now, although i saw some gains last week.

The Plan till the Frankenjura trip is after the deload week to do two more intense weeks, focusing on power and power endurance. I will probably have a couple more session on my outdoor project, which should a very good training to gain specific pocket power. Afterwards, one week of tapering and then i am hopefully in the shape to send something hard.

Ha ha! That's what they said about Reiff. And Costa Blanca! 

M - 8mile 800m ascent walk and a BBQ

T - Climbed at  Coudy Rock. Good little crag. Great technical climbing on hard(ish) sandstone. Onsighted up to 7a.Happy with that.

W - Tired did nothing

T - Not so tired but busy day so did nothing 

F - I'd heard there'd been some cleaning going on in  Egerton Quarry so we went for a look. Overall I'd say there's some really good routes in there, but getting to them, or finding them clean is the main challenge. An orientation visit is needed but I'd deffo go back. Highlight of the day was bailing off Mumbled Prayer (E3 6a). I'd lost psyche by then as a couple of other E3's I wanted to do were either inaccessible or dirty. I then bravely stuck a top rope on it and did it. But I would have really struggled with the mantel crux onto the ledge on lead. I think I would have bailed there even if i'd got through the lower crux.

S - Work and admin day 

S - Lancaster wall. Tried the new wooden perma-circuit. Great moves, very outdoorsy, also very slippy on the feet. Messed about on circuits half heartedly.

This week I will start my training diary again. I'm not monitoring my diet yet. COVID seems to have left me with reduced appetite. I'll do some gentle training to try and kick start the system and get ready for Lundy.

Brilliant stuff.  Very pleased to see you tick those goals!

Thank you Ross and welcome as our new leader!

Not back from holiday until Wednesday, but made up for it in the later part due to SSB's invite out for a super adventure.

M - W Nothing

Thurs - Adventure day out with SSB for Moonraker (HVS 5a) and Dreadnought (E3 5c). Moonraker was eventful as we dropped in at high tide, leaving me hanging in air on the abseil, just a few feet above the sea battling to keep the swing going (I lost). Quick jug up and then a careful downclimb to a hanging stance just above the swell.  SSB started P1 with a short traverse of Magical Mystery Tour (6a+) to get on Moonraker, I then followed on running P2+3 together.  Possibly the best HVS in the UK! (controversial opinion, I know).

Dreadnought is where the real action is to be found. Although it look like the holds are big, its deceptively steep and pumpy through the crux, as you traverse the lip of the great cave with big drop in the sea below. After a contorted rest, the traverse continues on soapy slippery holds to the "safety" of the belay.  All well protected if you can trust the rock (which you can't).  The pitches above much easier, but still great to climb, with the last one being a pleasure on clean solid rock.

Fri - Back in the Mendips and Terra not that Ferma quarry. New routes E2 5c, E3 5b, F6b, F6c.

Sat - Nothing

Sun - Quick TR play on a slab route in the Mendips

... and Randy (who may well get to the target very soon!)

I've had a bit of a think about a OAPU programme, so thought I would share.  I should also say that I'm training this as it is quite shoulder focused and I would say that is a bit of a weakness for me.  The various progressions are also adding additional variety and load.  Be careful of elbows!

Two strength benchmarks by way of general preparation that I have identified from reading around are;

100 normal pull ups in sets of 10 within twenty minutes.  I can normally do this over my winter training period, though I will be a bit short at the moment.  I am using September to build back to this basic patform.

3 sets of 3 weighted at +50% (for me adding 31.5kg).  I haven't trained weighted much ever, but started last night with 5.5kg and 5x5 - no DOMS this morning!  I am way off this, but it is almost a new exercise.  I plan to build this slowly as part of my standard pull up session twice a week.  I should also note that these benchmarks are not a necessary foundation, but help.

Once the foundation is beginning to feel solid, I am then introducing as part of the mix;

Assisted.  3x3 each side with a knotted rope approach, progressively moving down the knots.  The same effect can be done with wrist, forearm, elbow etc.  This gives a total of 18.  Then complete to 100 using a balanced mix of Archers, wide grip typewriters and regular.  This would be the basis of a twice weekly session.  Incidentally, I can normally do assisted pull ups okay - even with a mono or a sloper - though it isn't something I test often.  The knotted rope approach gives clear progression benchmarks - perhaps clearer than holding onto your own wrist or whatever?

Other progressions include one-arm locks offs; one-arm controlled lower and one-arm scap shrugs - all of which can be done with (rope) assistance.  I plan to mix some of these in each week on my non-100 days!  Lastly, a few suggestions that with a reasonable foundation, focused training should get you there in one month!  I am working towards three months, though it is the journey that is important here of course...

Quite excited to have a new goal to help me through the busy spell at work.  Session two today before I head off mid-afternoon.

Session two completed.  One rep each side with two finger dish as assistance.  Five sets of six regular.  Can hit the road with smugness.  Sorry, but excited to be back on a plan!

This looks actually quite hard and more like an endurance session. So not sure how much this tells about the maximum strength and i would not be too suprised if the average guy who can do a one armer would fail to finish this session

For this looks like a more relevant benchmark. I've played a little bit around with https://strengthlevel.com/one-rep-max-calculator. If you can complete 3x3 + 50% bodyweigth, you should have a one rep max in the range of 160% to 170%, which is according to the lattice guys the benchmark for a one armer.

This looks like a lot of volume to me. Doing 3x3 is already quite hard, assuming that you are close to failure on the last set. And 80 pullups including varations like Archers would be a tough programm on his own imo. Hence, you might want to think about at least reducing the volume in the beginning and then slowly building it up as long as you can handle it.

Good luck with your journey. I will probably get into more specific one armer training by end of october and focus on weighted pullups with relatively high reps in the meantime. Then i will probably switch to doing assisted one armes with a pulley, which is imo the best way to track progress and is still a quite simple set-up.

Some useful reflections there!

Yes, it did strike me as quite high volume, but is only the sort of thing I would normally do over winter.  It did come from a climbing specific site.  I guess the pint is that two-armers need to feel routine?  Another typical baseline suggested is being able to complete a set of fifteen (or even twenty), which I know is pretty difficult anyway.  I already include Archers in my normal winter sets.

Yes, I will build back to my 'normal' volume slowly - probably take me the rest of this month at least.  It is the added weight bit that I am a bit careful about as I think this is likely to be quite hard on the elbows.  That said, last winter I was doing 100 twice a week and I weighed 10 kg heavier then!

Yes - a pulley is a really good idea.  Very easy to track progress as you gradually reduce the weight.  A lot more precise than a knot arrangement or using the small holds on the fingerboard.  I have done them with the mono pockets for assistance, which are also lower than the jugs, so perhaps closer than I think?  I know I can't imagine using the two monos, even with two fingers stuffed in, to complete a single two-armer, so I can't give me much assistance.

Anyway - thanks.  Good to share thoughts.

So i got curious today and tested may one rep max for weighted Pullups:

Managed to get my chin with 53kg added weight barely over the bar.  It was not a pretty rep, but i guess that counts . I am currently  weighing around 74-75kg, so that means i've added about 70% of my bodyweight, which is a very good baseline for a one armer.

Nevertheless, i am probably still sticking to the plan and doing weighted pullups for the next 2-3 months, but i will probably increase weight and decrease the amount of reps. Would be a fun challenge to get my one rep max above 60kg before christmas.

I've also tested how many reps of bodyweight pullups i can do after a 10 min break. Felt quite funny doing bodyweight pullups after maxing out. The first reps felt easier than any pullups that i've ever did in my life. My nervous system was probably still used to firing at 100%, which made me feel almost weightless. Squezzed out 21 reps which is an all-time PB. Pretty sure that a couple of more reps should be possible if i try this fully rested.

I've never been close to this but I think that once someone is over 50% added weight on two arms it's probably worth doing one armers with weight taken off with a pulley. It's a different sort of motion with one arm and that would help build all the stabilising muscles ready for the switch to full one armers.

Very impressive!  Yes, I noticed when I do a low-level weighted pyramid that the normal ones at the end felt really easy.  You've been doing quite a bit of weighted work lately, so your base is probably pretty solid.  21 is really good - I haven't done a single set like that for years!

Agreed - the motion is very different and hard to learn.  I find them easy to do with minimal assistance - a couple of fingertips on a smear will do, but impossible without any!

Yeah, if the goal is to do a one armer as quickly as possible that is probably the best strategy. But i also think that there is a huge carry over from weighted pullups to one armers when it comes to training the relevant muscles. Hence, doing weighted is probably not optimal for me when it comes to just getting the one armer done, but it is also not completely ineffective.

One of the reason why i am currently sticking to weighted is that i would like to keep my reps in the range of at least 6-8. In order to do that, i would need to remove a ton of weight with assisted one-armers, which would is a little bit of a hazzle and also creates a different movement that imo does not 100% carry over to doing them unassisted.

I suspected that you would probably smash OAPU if you decided to join in as you have a go as you have such a strong pulling base with the weighted work that you do.  Managing a rep with a hand on the shoulder is mega