/ UKC fit club wek 113

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biscuit - on 17 May 2009

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Repeat contributors - 31

Simon Lee
Waterbaby – brilliant ! Once you've done one you've broken the mental barrier and you'll do loads more now.
fimm – hope you didn't get too wet in Wales
Derbyshire Ben
RFWilkie – congratulations on the forthcoming wedding and the HVS
Tea Girl – excellent consistent effort. 3rd place is superb.
Rob Naylor
broughton power
Mark Torrance
Eric the Red - you often get a bit of a dip after a LTG. Don't push it it'll come back on it's own. Hope he breathing under water goes well.
Duncan Disorderly
andy farnell – well done for resting
andy – what a brilliant week. Nice one.
sean kenny – hope things get better soon.
AJM. - great week. Get the 7b done !
ayuplass – hope skye is dry and midge free.
Liam M – great time for a first ½. Well done.
plexiglass nick
Morgan Woods – looks nice. It'd get me psyched for fitness.

Fatclimber – great stuff. First HVS is a milestone. Never mind about the 2nd one ;0)
Tiny climb – nice one. If you can boulder v3 then it's strength endurance that will be holding you back on an indoor route. Take a look at the link at the top of this thread for info + training ideas.
Mr Cowdrey

Absent – 2

Richard Hession
craig geddes

New posters – 5

dux de lux – welcome; your mate is well hard !

Rosmat – welcome back
isi o – welcome
sash c – welcome – hope the elbows get better soon
SARS – great holiday. We share the same LTG ;0)

I've gone for this as this weeks link. It's quite a good one from Dave Mac.
Mr-Cowdrey on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: am getting back into training alot more now. exams are nearly out of the way so its about time to focus on my climbing.

M: rested after ten tors lol
T: 30min run, 1hr 30min fingerboard session, general conditioning
W: bit more running, 30min fingerboard session
T: power kite flying, 20min run
F: 4mile cross country, fingerboard session
S: revision at school so nothing

exams will all be over next week so i shall be climbing twice a week from then on and upping the training :D
richardh - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

"Eric the Red - you often get a bit of a dip after a LTG. Don't push it it'll come back on it's own. Hope he breathing under water goes well."

If he perfects the breathing underwater bit, let me know the secret!!

M: first full fingerboard session since shoulder tweak, went ok, little bit tentative on the hangs
T: shoulder not too good after the session
W: weather shocking, partners all ill, early session at the Depot, good effort, some good new problems, most nailed up to V5
T: nowt
F: torrential downpours all day, weekend not looking good.
S: shocking weather, trip to Citybloc, good set of problems this time, some good efforts on the greens ( font 6c+/7a apparently )
S: birthday! 35..... ouch.

a birthday goal restatement, the new walls have given me a new lease of climbing encouragement. 7c this year...., 7b+'s too.
Fatclimber - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

A poor week, suffering from lethergy from the extended bank holiday weekend.

M- Nowt
T- Nowt
W- 2 hrs at the wall, but was useless.
T- Drinking so Nowt
F- Nowt
Sa - Disastrous trip down to Swanage. 5hrs driving for about 2hrs climbing - spotted a gap in the weather but hadn't allowed for the sea conditions. Still did lot of extra walking once we realized we had to change venue and an important lesson learnt.
Su - Nowt.

Still another Bank Holidays looming so that should get me going again.
mbh - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STG 30 miles by Friday - going away next weekend. inc 1 session at c. 7:00 pace or better, or intervals. some hills
MTG : Launceston 1/2 in July
LTG : Eden Project marathon in October

W: 4.4 miles run, one big hill
Th: 9.5 miles run, flat
Fr: had to give talk to 100+ people. Had hardly slept, did nothing.
Sa: 10.2 miles run flat
Su: 9.3 miles run flat.

Last 3 routes were linear out and back routes, on which I normally run the return quite a bit faster than the outward half.

All a bit samey this week, but got to over 30 miles, despite work, so pleased with that.

Miles in last year : 1073, weekly average last 3 months 29.86 miles

Shoes: 556 miles. Should I get some more? That would work out at about a pound a run. I let the last ones go to 670 miles, then got injured.
Derbyshire Ben on 17 May 2009 -
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks Biscuit and well done on your bouldering ticks!

Last ] weeks STG: RP Beef It Sooo close and When Reason Sleeps Done, Do A Bigger Splash Rubicon or trad on Grit at weekend. 2 Fingerboard sessions Done.

MTG to end of May: Boulder Fb7b, Trad E4 on grit, Redpoint Sport 7b DONE Weight to 12 ¼ st. DONE

LTG (2009): Onsight E5 (R Wall, Supersonic), Boulder Fb 7b+, Redpoint 7c (Body Machine, Sturgeon, Stone The Loach)

Last weeks diary:

Monday - Stretching
Tuesday - Smalldale Quarry, dogged up When Reason Sleeps and then got it 1st go. Dogged up Lost Contact and had 2 redpoint goes only to realise I had a bad sequence over the overlap and it was too late to have another go.
Wednesday - 45 minute fell run and then 1 hour deadhangs and repeaters
Thursday - Indoor bouldering. Power and power endurance. Sore left elbow
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Stoney. Dogged and then top roped Traffic Jam 4 times then top roped Wee Doris.
Sunday - Chee Dale embankment. Dogged up Beef It to clean and clear up damp holds. It started to rain again so had a redpoint go knowing the top would be wet. Fell off literally one move from the chain when a foot popped on a drenched foothold.

A good week which would have been better had it not rained this afternoon as I would've definately done Beef It but it was pissing down and I tried as hard as I could so not disapointed and after all, it's all climbing at the end of the day. Contact strength is improving through deadhanging and I'm feeling fit - all good.
Liam M - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: Cheers

Not much this week. A relaxed 35k cycle to clear my legs on monday, a few short undulating runs to get used to new shoes and a couple of bouldering sessions.

I've been struggling a bit for motivation the last few days, due to a mixture of crap weather, post race deflation and generally falling into a bit of an emotional low.

I think I need to find someone to train with to help motivate me when conditions are crap, and could do with associating a social aspect to my sport - I probably should join a club but I'm not too sure. Are there many people on here who run or cycle with a club and how do they find the atmosphere in them?

I also think I could do with finding myself another event to focus on. The triathlons I was looking at are out whilst I'm unemployed - the overall cost is just too much. So instead I think I'm going to look at some off road running, and was considering something like the Ilkley Trail Race. The only issue is I gather there are often minimum equipment requirements for FRA races, but I couldn't find anything in the details of the event. Does anyone know much about what the requirements are (or are likely to be)? Also can anyone recommend any other good fell/trail races suitable for beginners over the next couple of months around West Yorks.

Cheers folks
Banned User 77 - on 17 May 2009
In reply to Liam M:

Rule 9.

M: Ran up Snowdon llanberis path down ranger, 10 miles 1100m ascent
T: Moel Y Gest Fell race. 3.5 m 400m ascent. 3rd
W: Recce run of 1000m peaks, up to Beras and down Drosgyl. 7 miles, 600m ascent.
T: 1.5 hrs bouldering
F: Hebog/Nantlle Paddy Buckley leg 9 miles 1500m ascent
S: Carneddau Paddy Buckley leg. 9 miles, 1300m ascent
S: Sarn Helen Fell race 7th, 16 miles, 1000m ascent. 1:55
Morgan Woods - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

hey mate....thanks for another week.

Mon - Sun: have now enrolled for 10 classes at the local boxing gym and have now gone to 2. It's quite a workout and a good substitute for jogging while my knee heals. Climbing wise only managed one routes session where i failed to redpoint a Steve Mac Castle 6c+. Not sure what it is with me and indoor grades but i guess i'm more suited to real rock....a shortcoming i will happily accept. Also did 3 sessions at home on the Beastmaker, which i seem to be getting better at. Had a quick go at a few pull ups just a moment ago and seem to be getting stronger, 3 x 10 on a medium edge and 3 x 5 on a small edge without too much huffing and puffing.

Would have been climbing in the Peak this weekend but bailed due to sh*t forecast so would be interested to hear how people got on.

Tiny climb - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: Thanks Biscuit,
I am improving on indoor routes but your right, its definatly my endurance that holds me back. going on steep ground really shows up how bad your endurance is

STG: Get outside more for bouldering.
MTG: Do some outdoor sport routes.
LTG: RP 7B indoors

M: 2 hours of easy stuff with school indoors.
T: rest
W: rest
T: Yay!!!!!!!!! finaly did my 7a+ indoors!!!!! 2 hours quite hard climbing indoors.
F: rest, felt weak
S: A whole day of indoor climbing with school, still felt weak so couldn't repeat my 7a+
S: 2 hours NICAS, did some easy leading as well. Was meant to be goning to Hartland today but too wet.

Yay, did my 7a+!!! I managed to do it second go in the end so have definatly got better at slab climbing.

seankenny - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: A big fat zero this week I'm afraid - very tired from last weekend (drove 1000 miles in a week altogether), knackered knee and busy with work. Hoping for more psyche this coming week.
TeaGirl on 17 May 2009
Thank you biscuit!

Marathons done and dusted for now and fully into tri training.
Goals: Half ironman 14/6 & full ironman 2/8.

M: Aerobic swim 1hr 10mins, spinning 1hr 10mins, run 30mins.
T: Strength swim 45mins, coached weights 1hr.
W: 12x100m swim set, bike 3hrs.
T: Steady run 1hr, coached weights 1hr.
F: Speed swim 50mins, turbo 1.5hrs, run 800m intervals 40mins.
S: Spinning 1hr, core.
S: Run 1hr 35mins, hilly bike 2hrs 20mins.
biscuit - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

Weekly plan - Str End at wall x2
lead an E grade
boulder session - concentrate on on-sighting skills


HVS mileage day is a priority
lead 4 e1's by end of May - 1 done. Might have to extend this due to rain.

MTG: Flash V3 at St Bees, Carrock Fell + Gillercombe - by end of August

On-sight steep E2 by beginning of July '09

Work Dreaming of Red Rocks at St Bees - 7a+

Work another V6 in July '09. Got problem picked. Un-named 3* arete at St Bees.

Onsight E3 in 2009 - was thinking of Needle Arete at Wrynose.
Always liked the look of it.

At least get on an E5 ( penal servitude or lucifer ) in 2009.

LTG: Headpoint E6/7 routes i've got my eye on. Fr6c + 7a grading so they are do-able. Just death if you fall off. I want this done in 2010.

S - Trad evening.
M - Rest - broken
T - Bouldering at St Bees
W - Supposed to go tradding for the day but forgot to contact my partner.
T - nowt
F - 1/2 hr jog with my wife
S - nowt

Strange week.

Lead a sustained + steep E2 on Sun + cleanly 2nd an E1 and E3. Well chuffed but wiped out day after. One goal ticked

Bouldered at St Bees and ticked a goal of Hueco Crack ( V5 ) 2 mths early and then did left crack ( V6 ) abut 1/2 hour after. Got it on my 4th go. Rather puzzled and amazed as i'd only done my first V4 a couple of weeks ago. SS to Hueco is on the cards now at V7. I've done the start but was too whacked to link it.

Made me very aware that strength is obviously not holding me back. Stamina/endurance and trad mileage are. So will stop pratting about on chin up bars etc and get on rock.

Had a lack lustre end to the week with a lack of mojo. Just been out climbing tonight at the wall. Crap session so i need to shake this off asap.
biscuit - on 17 May 2009
In reply to Derbyshire Ben:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> Thanks Biscuit and well done on your bouldering ticks!
I was well confused for a while until i remembered i had posted on the dark side a couple of days ago. Thought i had a stalker ;0) Thanks by the way. I am quite proud and awaiting my complimentary free beanie from the font 7a club.

I think the difference is having a psyched group with you. Tradding with guys who've got E7's + 8a's under their belts and can show you how to REALLY try at bouldering makes a huge difference.
Craig Geddes - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: Hey - I wasn't absent just didn't say very much!

STG: Return to comfortable onsighting of HVS + generic improvements in power endurance
MTG: 15 multipitch VS 4c's or above, get back to the occasional E
LTG: Mid E numbers (onsite or prepracticed)

M: rest
T: Rest
W: Hard bouldering/power endurance session
T: sailing
F: Hard bouldering/power endurance session
S: Run
S: Tweaked back in different place at work
biscuit - on 17 May 2009
In reply to Craig Geddes:
> (In reply to biscuit) Hey - I wasn't absent just didn't say very much!

Sorry. Was multi tasking at the time. Building a play house, cooking sunday lunch and trying to do fit club at the same time was obviously a step too far.
ukb & bmc shark - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: Thanks bisuit

Goal: The Oak

Weight 11.3-4

M.Finger board deadhanging. Also some french pullups and core exercises.
T.Lunch.Systems board.Good session. Eve.Foundry. Bouldered on Wave (90min)
W.Lunch. Wirebrushed a railway bridge and did some traversing. Eve. Ace campusing session + some other exercises.
F.Foundry. Boudered on Wave (90min)
S.Malham. Several goes on the Oak. Good conditions. New highpoint.

Seem to have lost a couple of pounds without really trying. Finally got through the throw on the Oak. Away in Cornwall for the next 2 weekends so will be having a break from it. Have a touch of golfer's elbow which I need to keep an eye on but otherwise another 5 day week with progress all round and feel fine for it.
Bespoke by Nature - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:
w-bouldering/traversing/circuits at boulders
t-long walk with camera kit
s-big black mountains challenge 16k CC run- 2:13 with checkpoints and 3 miles uphill walking, terrible weather-first event so not bothered about time. 2nd to finish on route C.

STG-consolidate at VS and 6a+ -next 2 months

MTG-climb Whitt at Symonds Yat and the three star HVS's at Shorn Cliff-before next year. F6b's at the Gap, Tirpentwys and Crag X Gilwern.

LTG-Lead E1, F6c by before July 2010

Next week-
t-run, 5 miles
w-routes or cicuits/problems at boulders
t-run 5/6 miles
s-trip to symonds yat (maybe to climb Green Grollies) or Crag X
s-Yat, Crag X if weather is good.

Cross country runs if weather is bad over w/e-8 miles or so.
Richard Hession on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

I didn't post last's weeks till today so was also present kinda! ;)

Great effort on your St Bees crushing! I'm heading there soon in a couple weeks so hoping for dry weather and have a long list to go at!

Anyway, on time this week...

Goals for 09: Brass Monkeys (Stanage)
Additional Goals: Halfway House (cave); Mr Fantastic (J's Roof); Iron Man (Trowbarrow); Texas Hold em (Trowbarrow)
Completed 09: Lou Ferrino (cave); Trigger Cut (cave); Vitruvian Man (trowbarrow); Jerry's Roof (J's roof); Art of Self Destruction (Woodwell); Monoblock (pex)

Mon: Rest
Tue: Antagonistic and stretching
Wed: Rest
Thu: setting and testing problems
Fri: Rest
Sat: Flashed a new problem at Pantymwyn then went the Cave to work on HH, linked through into TC trigger snatch from start for the first time ever, good breakthrough at end of day. Only downer was a bit of pain in my left arm (felt like DOMS). Did some Right arm 1 armers in RA pocket to warm down :P Felt good.
Sun: Went wall, warmed up and did 30 minutes of stretching and light antagonist exercise followed by a bouldering session but cut it short after a couple of goes on a hard left arm sloper lock move that left my arm in agony and hard to move. Going to rest for a couple of days or more!
Hidden User 56 on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: Goals as before.

Mon/Tues/Wed/Thurs rock rings
Friday - rest
Saturday rest/put up Beastmaker . Managed to refrain from having a session on it straight away.
Sunday - Malham. Quite a busy day, so had to warm up on Just Another Dead End Job. Put clips in Zoolook. 3 top-ropes, got all the moves and clips sorted, good links as well. Very happy as it was my first day on it. Will probably need another day working before I start redpointing. Excellent progress on a route I'd previously walked past thinking it'd be beyond me.

Andy F

Liam M - on 17 May 2009
In reply to IainRUK:


I think I can muster everything except the windproof bottoms. May need to sort that.
the colonel - on 17 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STGs: VDiff lead, 6hr mtb, 2hr fell run, 2000m swim.
MTGs & LTGs: See

M: swimming (35mins, 1000m).
T: swimming (30mins, 900m) + road biking (35 mins, 11km).
W: rest.
T: Welsh 3000s backpack trip (4hrs, 12km).
F: Welsh 3000s backpack trip (7hrs, 12km).
S: walk 'round the mine at Llanberis.
S: Tryfan North Ridge scramble (3hrs, 3km).

Didn't quite manage to complete the backpack 'round the 3000ers but had a good if wet and windy time anyway.
isi_o - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STG: consolidate at S/HS, lead single pitch VS, build hill fitness
MTG: mountain VS, SML assessment
LTG: get some E points maybe...

M: hill day before work - the Zig-Zags on to Gearr Aonach, round onto Bidean and down Coire nam Beathach.
T: RIB trip on Loch Linnhe
W: rest
T: Cragging at Poll Dubh
F: Indoors at the Ice Factor, mostly 6a+, 4 1/2 hrs
S: rest
S: rest

Not a bad week - would have liked to get out more as the weather has been fantastic, but work gets in the way...
Lead MS, 2nd HS, lead HS 4a on Thursday, so fairly happy with that. The HS 4a felt very comfortable, so hoping that's not just a one-off and I'm ready to go for a VS.
Ticked both my goals for the week, yeay! For next week - get out on some rock again, even if it isn't completely dry, get a hill day in, V3 corner problem I've been trying for a bit now at the wall... really starting to annoy me because I'd expect to be able to do a V3. Requires contortionism I think. Must stretch more.

dux de lux - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STG - keep up motivation and find time to train over next few weeks as work gets increasingly busy
MTG -have a decent run at Borrowdale Fell Race in Aug (under 3.30)
LTG -better my prev best position in British or English fell running champs in 2010 (perhaps)

M - rest
T - 6 miles steady over local fells to work
W - Reps:8 x 2 min cross country loop
T - 6 mile run early morning over local fells to work
F - 6 miles run arly morning over local fells to work
S - 6 miles steady on local fells
S - 14 miles trail run in Kentmere

OK week. 7 hrs and 40 miles/ 6500ft ascent - all off road. Quite a lot of slow and steady running other than the reps session - junk miles I guess: but will help me shed a few pounds! Borrowdale 11 weeks away.
Irk the Purist - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

Still not running back at the pre London amounts because of work, swimmming and a niggle but wanting to get out there so that's good!

M: rest
T: run 3.5 miles and swim 20 mins. Still can't breathe out underwater so just did lengths of breaststroke. 200m though which is ok.
W: away with work, rest.
T: ditto
F: ditto. No excuse really, I always used to take my trainers.
S: 30 min swim. I CAN BREATHE OUT UNDERWATER!!! I bought some goggles and instantly I can do it. Did about 20 lengths.
S: Orienteering. 6.5 miles and about mid placed. A longer route than normal and I royally screwed up the nav so would have been higher. Fitness is returning.

STG: Get back to running 3 times a week. ND 30k in under 2:30
MTG: Do a mountain marathon and an ultra
LTG: Win an orienteering event. Do a really extravagent long distance running challenge.

STG: 100m crawl, 400m breaststroke
MTG: 200m crawl, 800m breaststroke
LTG: 400m crawl, 1600m breastsroke

That is all. Off away with work again so next week will be just as shite.
Sash.C - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: Thanks Biscuit.

M - 45 mins cycling
T - 45 mins cycling
W - Gym session - core and antagonist muscles
T - Yoga class
F - Rest
S - Gym session - core and antagonist musles
S - Indoor climbing - interval training at local wall (long ciruits on big holds - no crimpy moves and no powerful moves!)

Icing, anti-inflamatories and masses of stretching continue for elbows. Cold water treatment for finger. Maybe slight progress from last week. Elbows feel less stiff during the day and didn't hurt during Sunday's climb. Will force at least a couple of days rest now anyway though. Excited about my physio appointment this week! - a few years overdue.

Hope you all have a good week.
Quiddity - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks Biscuit.

This week pretty dreadful given injury on Monday. STGs might need some revising as I don't want to put too much pressure on myself to get back on the finger-intensive training. Bit of a bugger as we have a Chee Dale trip on bank hol.

STG (until July ish)
Finish off Sport pyramids for 7a and 7a+ (1x6b+,2x6c,2x6c+ remaining)
Boulder - V4/Ft6b on rock & mileage at V3/Ft6a
Finish indoor 7b pyramid
Indoor V7 boulder pyramid
Increase ARC grades to 5+ (no pump) and 6a (sustainable pump)
Jamming mileage
Weight to 65.5kg

MTG (this year)
Finish 7b pyramid (4x7a, 2x7a+ probably in UK)
Indoor 7b+
Redpoint 7b+ (El Chorro?)
7a pyramid for onsights/flashes only
Increase volume per session - sport: 8 pitches avr. per perf session, 12 per vol session. (10-12/20 Indoor)
Target weakness on small holds - 6c+ indoor route pyramid (up to 50% on TR) on screw-ons only

Boulder V6/Ft 7a, E3 in Lundy (Autumn 2010)

VLTG - 8a,

Goals for This Week:
Binned all climbing goals due to injury.

M - Bouldered on Mezz. Insufficient warm up - did a couple of V1s and a V2 and got straight on V6 project. Pretty stupid in retrospect. Was cranking through the crux on a screw-on pinch - tried to hold the swing on to one hand - and left ring finger FDP gave out in forearm. Lots of ice & ibuprofen.
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - rest
S - light boulder. Taped up for most of session - forearm feels like it's recovering reasonably well. Bizarre injury - it's only really holding very extended open hand grip types with ring finger that cause pain. Anything I can get my second joint round, it's fine. Crimping - fine. Pretty sure it is just a strained muscle and not tendon given rate of recovery. Lucky.

Goals for next week -

Continue FDP rehab. Ice, Ibuprofen, Sports Massage
Climbing - technique session. Focus on movement initiation.
Light fingerboard session isolating injured finger
Try to nudge weight back below 66 kg.
RFWilkie - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STG(By 28th June): Maintain fitness until after wedding/honeymoon.
LTG(By 30th B'day): Run 10km < 40mins, Redpoint F7a, 20 x VS, 5 x HVS, 1 x E1, Triathlon
VLTG: 'The Nose' El Cap

M: Rest Day
T: Climbing High Sports K2 2hr 15mins, Routes upto F6c+
W: Gym 1hr 20mins, incl run 4.43km 25:00 @0.5%
T: Rest Day
F: Rest Day
S: Rest Day
S: Climbing Craggy Island 2hrs routes upto F6c

Not a lot to report this week, as stated in STG, just maintaining at the moment. Wedding is on Fri, so may not be much/any exercise to report for this week or the next.
Duncan Disorderly - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

Goals: TBC.

M: Bouldering @ Stanage and Burbage - Made progress on Spring Voyage but strained me groin so gave up, got on The Nose @ Burbage as I really should have done this by now. Pissed it up until the topout where I went left too early and promptly ran out of holds, got into an irreversible position and had to jump twisting my ankle on the boulder below... Arse!
T: Sore groin and ankle - Missed the Burbage fell race too - Double Arse!
W: Sore groin and ankle.
T: In-Laws up..
F: In Laws.
S: Long walk around Derwent in rain with boy on me back - Ace!
S: More bloody rain so went for a 6 mile or so run around the Burbage Valley - Got very, very wet but felt good. Groin and ankle back to normal thankfully.

Bit of a strange week... Thought I might have properly hurt meself on Monday but was all fine again by Sunday. Good to get running again but really wanna go back and do the Nose now after Monday's cock up.

This week... Bouldering. Running. Maybe get on string.

TiffTiff - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STG (by end of may):
Each week: 2x run, 2x climb, 1x fingerboard
Get back on the trad - 10 E points
Lead E3

MTG (by end of june):
Onsight E3
Redpoint F7b

Maintain fitness during placements
A Mountain marathon?

M: Rest
T: Fingerboard 45mins
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Ran 10miles, 1hr 28min
S: leisurely 13miles walk
S: Fingerboard 30 mins

An exciting week of writing presentations and essays messed up my plans for any decent length training sessions. hopefully should be all over by friday and I can get away from this computer! feeling fairly strong on the finger board, although cut out a bit of warming up yesterday, which was a bit tricky. going to try and do at least short sessions this week to break up the boredom!
skeev - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: thanks biscuit.

another shameful week of inactivity, new job blah blah. managed some pressups on a couple of evenings, otherwise nowt. off for a run this evening!
viking - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STG - V6 outdoors,f6c indoors at castle, v5 at the castle (ticked)
MTG - E2 not on slate (currently on hold due to injury)
LTG - Redpoint 7b, font 7b (currently on hold due to injury)

mon: bouldered at castle ticked a V5, but twisted ankle, 24k cycle
tuesday: 15k cycle
wedneday: bouldered up to v4 (quick session as ankle hurt), 15k cycle
thursday: 24k cycle
friday: 24k cycle
saturday: gardoms in the rain - nothing
sunday: ticked a v4 and then ticked razor roof at cratcliffe (font 6c) within about half an hour

happy with the weeks bouldering - managed a short term goal of ticking a castle v5 and then really enjoyed razor roof

shame the weather meant i couldn't get on any of my 7a projects - there's always the bank holiday though!
AJM - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

> AJM. - great week. Get the 7b done !

I'm going to give it a go - I've got until the end of June before the summer access restrictions kick in, otherwise its an enforced layoff from it for a few months. I managed to tick my project on the last available session last year, so here's hoping!

I went down on Monday - it was very windy so ended up elsewhere because it was sheltered from the wind. Got there late as well. Still, flashed a 6a, onsighted a 6a, flashed a 6b and fell off a 6b+ - I got suckered into going the wrong way by poor route reading and couldn't reverse by the time I spotted the error. I'll go back to it some point. The 6b was pumpier than I expected and it was a bit of a battle. Need to hit the onsighting more really, get better at route reading and just not faffing and burning on through.

Did nothing else for the rest of the week. I'd plans at the weekend so that was a write off and I felt really knackered during the week itself (exams, font, running and other outdoor rock catching up with me) so had a few days off. Feeling refreshed and raring to go now. Hoping something is climbable this week/weekend.

andy - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: Thanks Biscuit - I was pleased with my week!

STG - stay motivated and stick with it. Start open water swimming.
MTG - sub-38min 10k, decent time in sprint tri, don't blub in White Rose
LTG - sub 3:15 marathon, sub 2:45 olympic tri

M - lunchtime: 5m recovery run from Leeds half @ 8:21 pace evening: sociable 12 mile bike over Langbar at c12mph
T - played golf - so no exercise!
W - John Carr 5k no.2 - surprised myself by knocking a bit more off my PB and getting under 18 - 17:55.
T - Bike to work and back 13.5 mile flat going in, 13 miles lumpy coming home over the moor - quite fast both ways owing to chasing my mate on the way home as our wives were playing rounders away!
F - run home from work 13.5 miles @ 7.54 pace - trying to preserve legs for Sunday
S - drive to Pitlochry
S - Etape Caledonia - 81 miles @ 19.5mph average. 66th out of 3500 (but only because hundreds of people got stopped for an hour!).

Last John Carr 5k this week - not expecting any more PBs, but another run around 18 mins will be good.
mattrm - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

Hello everyone. Ok, here goes:

STG - Get out onto proper rock, ideally doing trad (don't care about grades, just want to have fun), break sub 30 mins for 5k distance (flat, not my usual hilly runs)
MTG - Bristol Half in Sept, aiming for sub 2 hours, Lead some easy trad, 13st weight
LTG - Walking/climbing trips into North Wales, 12st weight
VLTG - Alps & Scottish Winter climbing also Cullin traverse & maybe a marathon?

M - 5k run
T - 4k interval run (1k fast uphill, 1k slow downhill)
W - Rest
T - Pilates (1h)
F - 5k run
S - 2 hours climbing/bouldering (happy with a good slopey 4a at the local wall)
S - Rest - day out with family, nice gentle stroll

It's been a really good week for me all in, lots of running, tried out pilates and quite liked it. Had a good time at the local(ish) wall (Summit/WICC) on Saturday, can't wait to get back. I'm a total beginner, so just happy to have bought my first climbing shoes (it makes life so much easier) and I'm still quite surprised at what you can put your feet on. I was 15st 12lbs just after christmas, but I'm now down to 14st 6lbs (still lardy, but getting there), I'm making quite a concerted effort at this whole fitness thing, it's all going quite well.
waterbaby - on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers Biscuit.

Wed-4 mile walk- resting injury
thu-7 miles walk followed by swimming 1500m.
Fri- climbing 5+/ 6a (I do like saying that)
sat- swimming 1500m, abs and back/shoulders
sun- 2 mile slow run off road hilly. Abs and back/shoulders
Mark Torrance on 18 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

STG - one long and one hill sprints session per week until end of June
MTG - Rhinog race, July
LTG (tentative) - Peris horseshoe, September

M: -
T: 7.5 miles road (tourist-run, Paris)
W: -
T: 6 miles road run inc. 8 x 1 min hill reps
F: 4.5 miles am, 3.5 miles pm road run flat
S: -
S: -

Slightly pathetic week, though couldn't do much about it (work stuff, mainly). Just run mildly hilly 5.3 miles in sub seven minute miles (partly to vent work frustration), which is pleasing. In the Lakes next week, so no report. Maybe the Duddon race (lots of miles and hills) on Saturday week, if it's reasonable weather.
Mark Torrance on 18 May 2009
In reply to Liam M:


Typically friendly, cheap, low key, and you have to really go out of your way (either metaphorically or literally) to come last.

Trousers: Regatta 10 quid waterproof ones, I suggest. 185g for a large pair (I just weighed them) including gaffer tape to cover up reach-your-pockets slits. At least I think they were Regatta ones. I appear to have cut out the label, a weight saving that no doubt gained me several extra places that last time I raced with them.

catt on 19 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

MTG (to end Aug 2009) Onsight Fr7a. Fr 7b. E2.
LTG (to end 2009) Fr7b+. Do some more E1's.

M - Castle - bouldering. Okay sess, getting a little bouldering zip back.

T - Sport massage for my back and neck. Great.

W - Castle - routes. Good easy sess with a 6c flash. Bike 7km.

T - Rest

F - Rest

S - 28km running and walking around the northern Rhinogs. Big day out, some pretty hideous weather including walking into galeforce hail!

S - 15km running and walking around the southern Rhinogs. The sun was out mid morning to show fresh snow on Snowdon! A good day out and made it through back to back fast hill days in mostly one piece. Should be in good shape for the LAMM.

A brilliant weekend in southern Snowdonia. Two big days out in the hills and we did not see one other soul near or far. There's grit there too!
fimm on 19 May 2009
Thank you biscuit:

> fimm – hope you didn't get too wet in Wales
Well, I didn't get too wet, but the weather well and truly messed up my climbing goal...

Short term goals:
Lead at least one (hopefully multipitch) VDiff on trip to Wales in May. Consolidate at leading 6A indoors and also climb harder routes on toprope. Sub 30 minute 10 mile bicycle time trial.
Longer term goals:
Northumberland (standard distance) triathlon 21st June. Sub 16 minute swim (750m) in a pool-based sprint triathlon.

M: climbing Alien Rock. Led a couple of 5s and did a 6a with a rest - but I feel I'm panicing less in situations when I've got a problem, which is good.
Tu: swimming. 50 minutes or so before work.
W: cycled 25.8 km in 1h 25 into a stiff headwind. Had a comedy fall due to failing to unclip. I still have beautiful bruises on my knee (though some of them may be climbing related...)
Th: travelled to Wales
F: weather poor so walked up Snowdon via Llewidd and down the Pyg Track - nice day out.
Sa: weather still poor so after seeing the sights of Llanberis (Pete's Eats and the gear shops) went to Tremadog. Seconded Christmas Curry (S 4a).
Su: back to Tremadog. Waited for crag to dry and eventually seconded Oberon (Vdiff). Then it started raining again.
M: failed to find dry rock on the way back from Wales.

Wales was good in spite of not being able to do what I'd hoped to do. Climbing goals will need a rethink, but climbing is basically going to be on the back burner until after the Northumberland triathlon.
Wilbur - on 19 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

cool - sounds like you had a very productive week indeed! Well done on the V6..

Any F7a+.
6 x E Points remaining [2 of 8 points ticked to date].
2 x V6. 1 x V7.

F8a, E5, V9.

Castle bouldering - problems upto V4. Worked on stuff upto V6. Nearly nearly ticked off long-standing V5 project (green OU).

Castle - 25 mins ARC, 30 mins ARC.

Gardoms - 4 goes at Mark's roof left hand before the rain came in - shame. Had a walk round crag proper and there are some great lookign routes, Moyers buttress in particular..

Cratcliffe - flashed a font 6b and had a few goes at razor roof with no joy! Started raining so we went to the Churnet and i worked on Ousal lower (font 7a) - a wicked traverse and one i will be going back to try and tick off..

Cycling: 0!! Have just replaced tyre and tube on back wheel so will be back on it soon!

Not a great week but nice to get out all the same..
fimm on 20 May 2009
In reply to Eric the Red:

Meant to add - well done Eric the Red!!

Liam - I've found the triathlon club I'm in to be friendly. Most clubs should be, you would expect?!

I won't be posting next week as I'm off to Skye - no climbing, but will be walking - where exactly depends on the weather!
broughton power on 20 May 2009 - []
In reply to fimm: late post again
mon beastmaker workout repeaters deadhangs
tue boardsession ciruits
wed run
thur deadhangs
fri rest
sat rest
sun attempted to go out to get some good links on malitia but rain stopped play so went on board
hopefully get back on militia next week
cheers dave
Goonie - on 21 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks again Biscuit.

Short term goals - before end of May
· Redpoint a 7c indoor or outdoors. (keyboard wall)
· 7b route pyramid
· Improve stamina with continued power endurance training so I can manage circuit on 45 board at the wall.
· Continue core gymnastic work. Targets: 10 pull ups in straddle lever position, hold tuck planche for 30 seconds. Do 5 tuck planche push ups.
· Flexibility: side splits flat on floor.

Medium term - by end of August
· Body Machine, Want out, Sardine, Tin of & consolidate by flashing some 7a and 7b’s in either the Peak or Portland.
· Campus 1-4-7 on small rungs
· Boulder a V8
· Hold front lever for 5 seconds, advanced tuck planche for 15 seconds. 5 handstand pushups.
· Flexibility: side splits with chest to the floor.

Long term goals - end of 2009/Beginning of 2010
· Fr7c+ redpoint.
· Choose an 8a to start working on (begin linking)
· Boulder a V9
· Maintain flexibility
· Make progress on West Side Story.
· Hold small rung on campus board with one hand.

Weekend to font in February get another 7a and try some harder stuff. Jet Set Font 7a.
Active hip flexibility: improve high stepping: be able to lift foot to level with pelvis.
Hold straddle front lever for 1 minute

M: Warmed up with some handstands and mobility work. Did some light traversing. Got on new problems up to V7 though still could not manage the V6 (got V7 though and very close on the V8). Did core session by completing GB WOD. Did slow lock off ladders on big slopey rungs. Finished with some stretching. Lock offs are still feeling solid!

Tu: Warmed up with some handstands and mobility work. Did GB WOD plus extra ring training. Did not manage to do any climbing as I was working. Finished with some stretching. Did some route setting so not strictly rest as I was trying the moves.

W: Rest as I was working. Was running some coaching sessions so not strictly rest.

Th: Beastmaker session working on repeaters on varying grips. Also did one arm pyramid session ala Beastmaker guidelines, this felt not too bad. Using pinkies though feels slightly tweeky and for now I am going to use my ring finger as assistance for the lower reps. Did some core stuff involving handstands, Planche work and L sits, Straddle L sits too.

F: Nothing as wife was in hospital getting knee op. Rest

S: Not much as I was looking after the crocked wife! Managed to do some core stuff between being a slave! Got one hour on the Beastmaker managed to do some repeaters.

Su: Nothing being a slave again.

Weeks conclusions: Got two sessions on the Beastmaker and feel this is what I need to do a few times a week. Week disrupted due to wife’s knee so not too much structure and it may be a bit like this while she is broken so will get done what I can. Also did not manage to get as much core work done as I would have liked but considering how busy I was managed to fit some training in. Did hardly any climbing which was annoying!

This weeks plan:
I aim to do a core session on 4 days (Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri working on doing the Levers and Planches at a minimum) Do Finger Board session on 3 days and lock off work (slow campussing) Work the problems I have not finished and get back on board. Fit in at least 1 Strength endurance session. Continue working on flexibility.
SARS on 21 May 2009
In reply to biscuit:

A bit late. Now getting my dates confused.

Came back from the holiday weaker than I left... bizarre. Too much beer and food, not enough pulling hard.

Anyway, been busy with work-related stuff last week and this week, and not too pschyed at the moment. Taking it easy, going to train for a Dec sport trip to Thailand but it is a bit early right now to start seriously.

Tue - indoor gym, weak
Thur - indoor gym, weak
Sun - indoor gym, it's hot here in Tokyo, weak

Mr-Cowdrey on 21 May 2009
In reply to biscuit: am gunna be missing for a few weeks as internet is being disconnected ill try and post when ever i can. just thought id let you know
huck - on 23 May 2009
STG: Get route fit, a dumby 7C
MTG: work out sabotage + get route project
LTG: campus 1-5-8, climb v10/11 in a day and partage!!

M: 45 sesh
T: 45 sesh
W: 45 sesh
T: 45 sesh
F: 45 sesh
S: Rest
S: dumby - worked on pongo ss

psyched for hard moves.

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