/ UKC FitClub 535

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guy127917 - on 18 Jun 2017
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:

Last week’s thread can be found here:

Ally Smith: I’m enjoying seeing how targeting your training sessions are at the moment, seems like each one has a purpose and contribution- are you just going day by day at the moment or are you working to a plan?
hms: On the one arm hangs- were you trying straight arm only or also half lock?
AJM: Can you do a handstand?
Dandan: Good to hear the elbow is manageable. Are you doing any specific prehab work for them currently? Are the rings/bar workouts you do more antagonist focussed than pulls?
alx: Have you got a rehab plan in place for the finger?
biscuit: What does your normal (or maybe ideal) warmup look like?
AlanLittle: Impressive commitment to the volume plan coming back from an outdoor session to get more volume in.
ianstevens: Congrats on the V6 tick!
guy127917: Waterskiing does not count as training
TheFasting: A nice week of PR’s!
annak: Good to hear you enjoyed the comp- is that a regular thing at your boulder gym?
the sheep: Great, well it’s always good to be adjusting goals up. So with your average volume at the moment do you find recovery at all an issue day to day, or are you cruising through it?
Just Tintin: Good determination getting Great Crack done. I’m tempted by the description but you haven’t sold it to me! Your MTG’s read more like STG’s- they are all actions rather than things you need to progress toward by breaking down into smaller goals or actions. Maybe just prioritising them is enough?
leeboy: Take it easy this week and get yourself feeling fresh!
Tyler - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I'm not really climbing much due to injury (elbow) and work but I use this to look back to see if I can see patterns (usually injury rather than improvement unfortunately!) so here goes with an audit since the emergence of my latest injury. Been climbing outdoors once a week and rarely a weekly visit to BUK

Gave up on Space Invaders just as it was looking possible, I managed the link from the knee bar to the top so proper red points should have followed. I switched to Free and Easy and got through the crux on my first session, three more saw me inching higher but no deal, then had two sessions on Myra, struggled on bottom crux (elbow) but just about managed it once at then end of the second session. Today I went on Cave Route LH, I was awful.
AlanLittle - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

More mileage this week, including my first ever session on an autobelay which a few people recommended as a good way to get a lot of wall routes done, but they're very rare over here for some reason.

STG: complete a dozen aerobic capacity mileage sessions. 5/12
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Rest, mostly. Accompanied my son + friend to Boulderwelt and spectated/coached. They are now 14 and allowed in the weights room for the first time: great excitement. Sneaked in a few sets of shoulder stuff & deadlifts whilst supervising.
T: Had planned to do a short strength/power maintenance session on the moonboard followed by a round or two of (suspiciously easy) lattice twenty minute aerocap, but then decided I was desperately tired, and resting & getting an early night seemed like a better use of my time.
Half an hour stretching before bed whilst watching the replay of the Vail final.
W: Rest
T: Sport climbing, Allgäu. Once again, weather too hot & humid for any projects - and I'm supposed to be focusing on aerocap anyway - so Kaly aerocap session #4. Eleven pitches at the crag, 5b to 6b+, and another ten circuits at the wall on the way home.
F: Rest. Apply Climb On / Ibuprofen gel cocktail to fingers.
S: Wall, Weyarn. Not one of my regular venues, but the only wall I know anywhere nearby that has autobelays, and I fancied a change from grinding round & round the same old circuits for aerocap. Bouldered for 40 minutes to warm up & for a little basic strength maintenance, then 18 x 15 metre routes 5a to 6b in blocks of three. I've never been on an autobelay before, so the first few rounds were superbly realistic training for terrified over-gripping, but after a while I got used to it. Kaly aerocap session #5
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Another brief "strength maintenance" bouldering session - if only I felt like I had some strength to maintain - followed by half a dozen circuits in the 6a to 6b+ range. Felt surprisingly good on these, but probably need to hold back a bit & be careful not to drift too far out of the aerocap range into unproductive-at-this-stage lactic system work. Kaly aerocap session #5½
hms - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. The one arm hangs are with elbow just a tiny bit bent to aid shoulder engagement, not at half lock. I've got some more tips from Ally of stuff to try on this, so will report back. I had a busy week:

M - cycle commute. Yoga.
T - cycle commute. FB 7/3/6/3 vanilla repeaters x 10 on pretty much all the holds, rest then another go at 1 arm hangs. 5 sec a side x 6, on 20mm, big slots, various different assist weights, playing around until really very tired.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening, quite warm so avoided slopers, 12 routes in pairs inc good goes on a 7b with a very hard top.
T - work day swap, so had a really long session at TCA on new 5+ to 6b set. Some really excellent problems, but hard and the holds seemed sharp. Few circuits too, sandwich then 1min on/1min off x 10 on lattice - only got to 4 iterations, so then decamped to finish the other 6 on various bits of 6b+ circuit instead. Skin really sore!
F - rest, drove to Ally's
S - Kilnsey. Foul 6c which I slipped off as a warm up, then trying WYSIWYG. Lovely route, so nearly got the tick - each go I was getting 2 moves higher, with final go right up to the last clip which I couldn't clip so pressed on and got a move or so higher.
S - W-c-J, Rubicon. Hot day but this was in lovely dappled shade. To say this route is my anti-style doesn't quite fully capture it - it's steep, really steep, you have to use heels and stuff, argh! Took a while but got the tick and was really quite proud of myself, even spontaneously used a heel at one point without being nagged.

so a super weekend, slightly tick light, but really great fun and great experience too. This coming week might be somewhat lacking in training as I'm visiting my parents and D2 is then here for the weekend. Should be able to sneak in some FB sessions if nothing else.
Post edited at 08:53
mattrm - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 8lbs

M - Outdoor routes at Navigation Quarry
T - Rest
W - 20 routes at the wall
T - S - Rest

Got out to Navigation on Monday. Took a day off work for that. Then down the wall on Wednesday. It was nice to get out. Unfortunately for the end of the week, I've got really bad toothache (I can just about eat if I take painkillers). So I'm not feeling much like doing anything. Of to Saundersfoot for a few days. So hope to get some climbing done at the end of the week.
AJM - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to hms:

I hope the "foul 6c" wasn't the Directissima?
hms - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to AJM:

it was. Would have been a lovely route 30 years ago, just seemed to be polished to death and slimy with chalk so well past its sell by date!
AJM - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to hms:

Bah - a classic line, especially if you go to the higher belay!
Ally Smith on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy - not following a pre-ordained plan at the moment, just trying to make progress in each session and get back to full-strength without further injury. Feel like i've made more progress again this week, but won't get a chance to do much this week owing to work travel & stag do.

Week 25
M - Cycle commute; 17.9/19.4km in/out. Morning ride was on an empty stomach – trying to cut some weight for Kilnsey project. Felt fairly wibbly on the last couple of km home, but Strava said I wasn’t slacking too much. Pec/shoulder stretch & 3x40 theraband shoulder rehab.
T - Rehab deadhangs – progressive set, then;
4x10s @BW+32kg on BM2K-AA slot.
4x10s @BW+10kg on 35degree slopers.
4x10s middle-2 @BW-4.5kg.
RH only centre slot @BW-7.5kg; 10,8,7s – think the earlier heavy reps reduced the quality of these final hangs.
Lots of heart pumping and sweaty barbell complexes in between.
Finished with 3x circuits; 10 reverse fly, 15 I’s and 5/6 narrow/wide pull-ups.
W - Rest – 28km (-ish; Strava died) bike ride. Pec/shoulder/groin stretch & 3x40 theraband shoulder rehab.
T - I had hoped to get to Kilnsey, but couldn’t find a partner, so ended up bouldering in the peak. Tried breaking into 7C again; Toms’ Cave - Titus (f7C) shut me down (how?), Hannibal (f7C) I just about worked out, but was too bushed to finish it off (wild cut loose to finish felt bad on both shoulders) and so only did the short version (7B+). Nudas Tartan has some funky rock – The Meltdown (f7B) is more like 6C+/7A (flash) but again too bushed to do Tarantula (f7C) and had to settle for two overlapping halves. Good progress – only minor finger grumbles, and these were gone by morning.
F - Rest – 3x50 theraband and painting/DIY only
S - Kilnsey; 6 tie-ins. Directissima warm-up. 2x on new section on the project, including some new links and optimisations (one awkward damp pocket still though). Broke a foothold and need to go back on this bit and work it again – thought up a sequence to minimise use of the perma-damp pocket. Trip up Mandela to re-work the lip section (and another two tie-ins to strip everything)
S - Sought shade at Rubicon. Feeling a bit beaten up by Saturday’s efforts, but managed a couple of silly bouldering/traverse links in the region of 7B and f8a. Finished off with a repeat of Rubicon, which felt quite stern.
AJM - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Can you do a handstand?

No, I don't think so - why do you ask?

Got out twice this past week, although I think that was all I did.

Tuesday was hot hot hot at Wallsend. Got on Zum Zeaux (7b+) which is nice - burly at the bottom and very techy at the top. Also some *** warmups I hadn't done before.

Saturday we went to Neddyfields to boulder in the afternoon. Shady, but the sun had heated up the flowstone to a nice buttery texture before it left. Grades felt the entertaining end of old school so no big ticks but some effort put in.
the sheep - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: Great, well it’s always good to be adjusting goals up. So with your average volume at the moment do you find recovery at all an issue day to day, or are you cruising through it?

Thanks, I wouldnt say cruising through, legs can be a bit sore after a longer run, oh and it can literally be a pain in the arse doing lots of riding.

Start to last week was slow as I had a half day on Monday for middle daughters birthday and then had to hang around at work on Tuesday waiting for a delivery of radioactive material. Compressed my 6 hours worth into Weds -Fri with Saturday being spent ferrying family around and a swim gala in the evening and Sunday being a series of sports diver lectures followed by all the kids swim training/lessons.

Wednesdsay 1km swim 42km cycle
Thursday 16km cycle 1km swim
Friday 16km cycle, 1km swim, 43km cycle

alx on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy,
Regular icing at this point to reduce the swelling, have decided to use this time to learn a new gymnastics skill, the planche.

Monday, Wednesday & Friday: at the gym working on progressions on the floor and rings until I can hold a bar or weight with the injured hand.

Sunday: 5am dash to the Lakes and climbed Blencathra via Sharp Edge and descent via Halls Fell ridge. Great day out, burnt to a crisp!
Just Tintin - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to hms:

hms/AJM... may I pick your brains for bouldering recommendations Bovey Tracy ish on Dartmoor? Seem to remember you've both been there recently. Preferably lowball up to f6C (the highball mats are in the Peak!) We're heading through on the way to Ben's open water swim at Bantham. I've ordered the CC guide but it won't get here until later in the week and won't have much time to plan... thanks!
Si dH - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to hms:

Nice one on Rubicon, glad you got it done It's certainly very steep for its grade. Worth a wander under wcj cornice next time you are in the area if you've never been - really impressive.

Btw I agree that Directissima is foul!
AJM - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

I think the guide says the woods get humid in the summer. The moor probably better with a decent breeze. Bonehill is classic, lots to do in a small space with Honey bag and Bell Tors nearby. Hound Tor another possibility. There's a classic lowball traverse on Saddle Tor of you fancy that too...
guy127917 - on 19 Jun 2017
Monday: Campus foot on ladders to benchmark fitness. Obviously can’t compare numbers to previous lattice test but the shape of the curve is the same. Anaerobic function is slightly lower (was 34% on lattice) which fits the training I’ve done (strength and aerocap, minimal ancap).
Also did 3x8mins on/8off on easy boulders
5 mile Z3 run
Tuesday: 3.5 mile recovery run, 30 mins stretching session
Wednesday: 4 mile Z3 run
Thursday: 30 mins stretching
Friday: Max hangs- no progression this week. 4x4 boulder problems (1:2 rest ratio, around v3), 3x8 mins on 8 off Aerocap.
Saturday: Blacknor South, mistake as it was about 100c in the blazing sun. OS’d I love the smell of resin in the morning (6c) which I was happy about, and then dogged my way up Sacred Angel (7a). It was too hot really so went down to the sea for about 3 hours, before going over to The Cuttings which was much cooler, though it was late. OS Another Notch in the Gun which I thought was an excellent route.
Sunday: Went to the Cuttings, which of course was also blazing hot in the morning. Spent a bunch of time working on Finesse 7a. I have a sequence worked out which has one stiff move I can do 50% of the time. I just saw a video of someone doing it using a hold I didn’t see at all there, so maybe there is an easier way.

So I've reached the end of the training block- this week is full recovery before flying to Canada on Friday. When we are there, it’s just a case of tackling whatever we are in the mood for, be it alpine, trad or sport.

Reflecting on this block of training, a few things stand out:
* Strength gains went well- consistent finger board max hangs were a big win, however because I did this all at The Castle (which can be very busy) it took quite a lot out of my time available for other more specific climbing training, and impacted training after the hangs a lot (there isn't really enough time the evening to take a decent rest)
* Getting a couple of hundred pitches outside in (mainly at Portland) has been great for my technique and developing an understanding of what I need to train. However 3 days outside plus 1 travelling a week didn't leave much space/energy for actual training. It's a good problem to have but something to be aware of next phase.
* Keeping good quantitive training data and visualising it really helped motivation and progress.
* The one coaching session I had was super useful, and I feel the technique drills have helped a lot in understanding efficient movement. Engaging with a coach more frequently definitely seems like a good idea
* I didn't make any change to body composition during the phase at all. I didn't really try to take any serious action on this, but it was something I wanted to achieve- go figure. That said nutrition was not at all an issue in terms of energy levels during training/recovery etc.
* Small goals like grade boundaries and specific routes to try helped me to push myself during trips and to some extent in training. Vague goals like 'get as strong as possible for Canada' were not helpful.
* I have actually made progress with flexibility in the hamstrings, hip flexors and shoulders! Today I reached the benchmark of heels on the floor in downward dog. It has taken some focus and consistency to make a pretty small gain, but it’s a promising start. I only really got down to this in the last few weeks, so I’ll continue with it in Canada and see how it goes.

Looking forward to the next phase, but it’s ciao for now! I’ll more than likely be updating instagram if anyone is interested in what Jen and I are up to
planetmarshall on 20 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:
It's a return to fitclub for me. Feels like it's taken ages to get back into the training habit, I think last week was my first full week of training for some time.

After gathering dust for three or so years, I finally got the Beastmaker mounted in a solid enough fashion to actually use - drilled through the support struts of my beam-mounted pull up bar and bolted the fingerboard to that. ( picture - )

Started off on the Beastmaker App's 5a routine. I need to take 30kg off my weight using a pulley just to make it through the workout, but I guess it means I have plenty of gains to make!

Mon - Strength and conditioning. Suspended core workout, pullups, ring dips, weighted box step etc.
Tue - Rest day
Wed - Hill sprints (3 sets 4x 8secs on 30% incline). Strength and Conditioning. Fingerboard (BM 5a, -30kg)
Thu - Grindleford Fell Race. 5 mins down on my time from 2015. Feeling very unfit right now, but probably still tired from the LAMM
Fri - Bouldering at Birchen.
Sat - Long run, Roaches Skyline/Gradbach. Lots of climbers out despite the heat.
Sun - Climbing at Bamford Edge. Short day, led 'Right hand twin', as it was in the shade. Fingerboard ( BM 5a, -30kg)


Next week - two midweek runs and a long weekend run. Move Strength and Conditioning workouts to 4 sets, continue fingerboard workout. 1 midweek bouldering session and weekend trad. Come up with some Mid and Long Term goals.


OMM in October
Kalymnos in September.


The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
The American Direct (ED1)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Post edited at 11:03
hms - on 20 Jun 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

me and my husband got pretty much shut down in Bovey Woods in humid conditions, so would second AJMs advice of getting out on the tops. I'm really anti-social and hate climbing with lots of other people around so we avoided Bonehill and went to Honeybag Tor instead, which had an appropriate grade for us ie lots of low end and quite a lot of middling grade. Some interesting traverses too, which might suit your lack of full pads!
Just Tintin - on 20 Jun 2017
In reply to hms and AJM:

Cheers guys. Avoiding humidity sounds good and looks like between those three we will have more options than skin ;) Traverses are my favourite so we'll see how long I can last on granite!

Just Tintin - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy for this and your stint and enjoy Canada! I shall think prioritising...

Not training very well during week at the moment but just need to push on to the end of term and then should have fewer meetings and less travel. All pretty stressful at the moment as big things afoot and we've been man down since February.

M - fingerboard
T - rest
W - boulder Brookes recruitment sets
T - rest
F - Boulder climbing unit forced mileage
S - routes Stanage north. Too hot for grit and should have known that, but really wanted to do Terrazza Crack (HVS 5a) to complete the classic Joe Brown HVS bender. Think I've done all the eastern grit ones now. Shall recommence in the autumn unless there is a particularly cool breezy day.
S - too hot. Dovedale for mostly swimming and a quick jaunt up Easter Island (E1 5b) on Ilam Rock which made a coachload of OAPs and some DofE groups happy. The only light for the grade route I've done at Dovedale, which was nice as usually have a few pumped beyond belief clawing myself up moments on HVS/E1 there!
Post edited at 07:13
AJM - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> So I've reached the end of the training block- this week is full recovery before flying to Canada on Friday. When we are there, it’s just a case of tackling whatever we are in the mood for, be it alpine, trad or sport.

Have a great time guy and thanks for holding the baton for a while!

Who's taking it over? Have we had that discussion? (I'm very sleep deprived this week)
ianstevens - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> ianstevens: Congrats on the V6 tick!

Cheers Guy - fingers feel really strong atm. Enjoy the Canada trip, hope that all your training has paid off and you have a good time.

Last week:
Yoga 30 mins
30 move P/E on the boulder wall x 4
TRX Plank (4x1min), Rev Fly (4x12), Wings (4x12) and pull ups (4x4)
Yoga 30 mins
Run 9km, easy
Bike - started working for Deliveroo this week (its new in town). 7.5km
Yoga 30 mins
Bike 37.3km, 600m ascent
Bike (Deliveroo) 2.7km
Beastmaker 5A 4 hangs x 1; 6B 2 hangs x 2 (may try the 6C this week!)
Yoga 35 mins
Run 8.1km, 170m ascent, easy
Moved house - much box carrying!
Run 14.4km, 411m, easy
Marshalled at the Trail Marathon at Coed y Brenin - may well do this race next year!
Cloggy - Silhouette (E2 5c) and Llithrig (E1 5c) (free) plus the walk in/out

Still on the plan! Longest I've ever stuck to training plan so far... but now up to V5. No missed sessions, just moved about. Extra cycling with the Deliveroo work as well.

Weight 69.7kg.

STG (end of June):
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone - might be tricky, all my partners who like to dangle on a single bolt all day are away
Get 10MTT down to 27:00 - close but no cigar (yet) - more on this next week... ;)
Get "Gold" standard (<4:15) for Cycle Fest Sportive (100 km) - tick
Stick to the plan each week - 3/5
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent... but I'm hopeful given the current snow scenario)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Do each and every session on the plan - 3/16
annak on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Actually it's a tiny bouldering gym that I hardly ever visit, but my friend dragged me along for their semi-regular comp citing loads of prizes

Not a lot of climbing last week, short of time and long weekend away with family. Still keeping up the daily yoga though.

M: Yoga 1h, cycle commute
Tu: Yoga 30mins, cycle commute, long walk after work
W: Yoga 25mins, evening climbing - onsight n5, redpointed n6+, toproped n7-
Th: Yoga 20mins, cycle commute
F: Yoga 30mins
Sa: Yoga 50mins. Walking round Prague all day
Su: Yoga 50mins. Walking all day

Climbthatpitch - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks guy

Another poor week for me with training as diy club and family life take over.

Did manage to get to Symonds on Sunday and got a few routes done but nothing I have not done before.

I prob wont be posting for the next 2 weeks due to other commitments and then holidays

Have fun in Canada.

Dandan82 - on 24 Jun 2017
In reply to AJM:

> Who's taking it over? Have we had that discussion? (I'm very sleep deprived this week)

I'm going to do it for the next few weeks until Guy returns, then see how it goes from there I guess
Dandan82 - on 24 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy, i've never posted this late before, oops! In all honesty it's because I used to write it at my desk at work on a Monday morning and now that I have a new job I thought I should probably at least act like a good employee for a few weeks...

> Dandan: Good to hear the elbow is manageable. Are you doing any specific prehab work for them currently? Are the rings/bar workouts you do more antagonist focussed than pulls?

If I'm honest i'm not doing any specific prehab for the elbows aside from a thorough warm up and generally sensible use of them at all times. Things like campussing are always preceeded by at least an hour of warming up and climbing, it seems to be working at the moment.
The rings workouts are mostly antagonist, yes, I've just received a new block of training to take me up to October and it includes even more ring work which i'm pleased about.

Very little to report this week as it was a full-on rest week.

M: Nothing

T: Nothing

W: Indoor Boulder; sub-max and campus, find a problem that is just below max, climb it then immediately do 8 hand movements on campus board. Rest and repeat x8.
This was my last climb at the Ballroom in Coventry, sad times. It's a real shame because its a great wall with a lot of facilities and really good setting and I won't get to use it any more.

T: Nothing

F: Core

S: Nothing

S: I actually slipped in one of next week's sessions as I was concerned that the new job might result in a lack of time, so I did recruitment sets; repeat hard boulder 7 times with 2.5 min rest between each. Repeat on 3 problems. only did 2 sets as it was so damn hot!

That's it, need to sort out short term goals again, the stretching has fallen by the wayside a bit more than I would like, I'm also keen to progress the ring muscle-ups, it seems like a shortcoming.
TheFasting on 24 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

This week I traveled to Oslo so I didn't do much regular training. But I sneaked off into the woods in Oslo to do some bouldering in between obligations.

Managed to send my first confirmed outdoor f6a/V3 Helt på kanten (f6A). I also thought I sent Wild Hogs (f4+) but apparently I was closer to Jacky Godoffe (f6B+) becoming my first f6b+ since I misread the topo. I'll try to do some more problems today before I leave.

Otherwise no training but I've noticed since being back that stairs I walked before starting to do stair climbing regularly I get less winded walking up now than I did before.
TheFasting on 24 Jun 2017
In reply to TheFasting:
Could add the videos to spice things up perhaps and
Post edited at 11:10

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