UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fitclub_577-682706

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Si dH: Nice varied plan, will be interesting to see how you get on with it. By the way do you ever run/do cardio stuff? 

AlanLittle: I feel your pain about finding limit boulders to train on, but I guess what you are trying to do is challenge your perception of ‘so impossible’. One thing I heard recently was the rule of 7- on limit boulders you should try a move 7 times before giving up, and if you make progress on any attempt, it resets the count. 

TheFasting: Thanks for the megaupdate, I knew you’d be back. Well done on what seems like excellent progress on all fronts this season!

Bones: Sounds like we need to get back to Portland ASAP

Ardo: Good to hear you enjoyed Provence. Good plan taking a rest and transition week. I’m interested to hear what the next training phase looks like for you.

mattrm: Great to hear to you are feeling good about increasing the activity level, keep it up!

guy127917: Don’t ignore injuries

AJM: Nice summary, let us know how your thinking progresses. Is FM viable in the hotter months or does it need both cold and low tide with calm sea?

MauraLorrissey: Similar to you I’m just avoiding hard bouldering for a few weeks and doing aero cap sessions instead. Outdoor isn’t quite as strenuous as plastic (especially grit!) so haven’t particularly avoided doing any routes yet. 

hms: Not being able to cycle commute makes me angry for the whole day, glad you get sorted by Wednesday!

dandan82: “I guess maybe the training is working a bit too well” Tom has got to get this quote up on the Lattice site!

Climbthatpitch: Continuing to get good volume in. How did overload week go? 

Ally Smith: Did you get out sport climbing on Monday night?

the sheep: Your race was today right? How did it (and the taper) go?

Andy Nelson: How was your Font trip? How long does it take you to get there from London?

Brodes: Amazing you can do 2 high intensity cross fit sessions and then aggravate your back weeding. Injuries are the worst.

mrchewy: Good to hear you were feeling worked in the good pain way! Keep your shoulder healthy whilst working hard eh.

Cyan: Ah excellent, hope you are having/had a great trip?

Tom Green: How was the discipline this week? If you want to get your z1 hours in this weekend you can join Andy and I in Snowdonia (we can make you do some sit-ups as well if you like)?

Powderpuff: How did recovery go, feeling better?

Flailing old gymnast: Welcome back, thanks for a nice introduction and good luck with your goals. I really got into the book Overcoming Gravity recently, I can definitely see how you can get psyched to progress.

Tyler: The verb ‘tazing’ can be our word of the week, I like it.

Just Tintin: Interesting tactic, but on your current trajectory that route seems quite plausible by then.

biscuit: It’s a similar idea to the training peaks algorithm too, which basically equates event fitness to ability to complete training volume.

AWOL: planetmarshall,Richard Popp

Hi Guy, no cardio for me - I did a lot of cycling and running in the past but not for 7-8 years now, I find they are just a distraction and risk getting heavier legs. They were more necessary when I used to do alpine stuff (and I used to enjoy the running.)

I do sometimes wonder though in periods with just fingerboard work in the week whether I'm actually doing enough hard exercise. That's why I'm trying to do a wall session each week and mix in lots of core and shoulder work too.

Hi all. Thanks for statting Guy.

A better week, although I could always do with some N Wales times, and having someone forcing me to do sit-ups!

Last week:

M: Climbing at Wilton 3. Fairly chilled, five routes up to HVS, ace being back on Lancs grit for the first time in a while.

T: Road run. 45 min Z3. 9km at 5:03/km average.

W: Hill Sprints, Core and Max Strength. Max strength felt good, despite progressing the load -some early gains or just a good day?!

T: Rest

F: Bouldering Ogwen (including two f6A+) then fell run up Heather Terrace on Tryfan (5.5km, 540m ascent, 10:20/km avg -Z1/2 but struggled to stay in Z1 on the ascent).

S: Climbing Carnedd y Filiast (soloed 2 x 2 pitch routes, V Diff and Sev) then fell run over Y Garn to Cwm Idwal (14.9km, 850m ascent, 10:44 pace, did a better job of staying in Z1/2).

S: Core and Max Strength. Dropped hill sprints as knees a little sore after Fri and Sat.

Next week:

Supposed to be a lower volume week to consolidate.

125 min Z1

30 min Z3

2 Core Sessions

2 Max Strength Sessions

2 Hill Sprints

1 Climbing

STG/Q2

E1 on 3+ different rock types Power of the Mekon (E1 5b) Kayak (E2 5b) Easter Edge (E1 5b) Californian Arete (E1 4c)

Sandstone trail in <10h

Boulder f6B in Lofoten

MTG/Q3

El Cap Nose Day

Kyrgyzstan new routes

LTG/Q4

North Face Original Route (ED1)

Jaz (D8)

Thanks for the thread guy. 

M: Ghost Kitchen, first time ever at this classic crag. Couple of good routes and one failure.

T & W: Decided to sack off climbing in favour of lounging about on the balcony. Late flight back on W.

T: BUK, should have been fingerboarding but knackered phone so no app. Did a few of the new problems.

F: Rest/work late.

S: Was supposed to get out but incident at work curtailed that.

S: First trip of the year to Kilnsey. Decided not to mess about and got straight on the Bulge, unlike when I got on MO really struggled with the moves, didn't go far up it and never even managed the Bulgette in one! Terrible. Had a TR on Sideline. Worse.

Only good news of the week was I didn't put on much weight whilst on holiday. 

Awesome job Si! 

STG: Strength Phase: 7A boulder project. Job Done.

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Rest day. Half an hour rotator cuff, mobility, stretching

T: Bike one hour. Was too late at work to do my regular Tuesday evening bouldering session with my son; did a small max hangs session before bed instead. 

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Shorter session - half a dozen routes up to 6c.

T: An hour on the bike, 45 minutes stretching & mobility.

F: An hour on the bike.

S: Sudelfeld, 7A boulder project ticked. As is often the way with these things, the actual "send" (ahem) felt quite smooth, and had me wondering how hard it really was. But it did take me three sessions, whereas the handful of 6C+'s I've done have all been in a single session - one of them Second GO - so it was definitely more effort than those. And attempts to repeat it for the camera failed dismally, suggesting it probably took more out of me than I thought. And none of the eight logged ascents on 8a says Soft. So hurrah.

(https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchFromSimple=1&SearchType=A...)

S. Boulderwelt with my son. Definitely no crimpy deadpointing today; instead worked a horrible slabby sloper shuffle on volumes that the lad has adopted as his proj. He is already better than me on that sort of thing.

It occurs to me on reflection that probably all the boulder problems I have ever succeeded on above about 6B have been on limestone. Thanks to a climbing youth spent on brick edges I can crimp to a reasonable degree - in fact it's probably the only well developed climbing skill I possess, so I suppose I should look for at least one limit project that is in a completely different style.

Nice one Alan, first 7A is a good milestone

Jealous of everyone out and about in this lovely weather, Wales must have been amazing.

Goal (summer) - Salbit West Grat 32pitch ED1

Mon - Sun  Worked. Super busy for a while, managed 15hrs on Tue, 13 on Wed...

Obviously not done much exercise, up early to stretch or some weighted mobility after work but to be honest I'm knackered. Not much sleep Thu or Sat night either which is good for mental strength and seeing as my job is mostly time on feet - I'm calling it endurance training, what with the 80hrs a week and no days off untill mid May.

Whilst I was in Swizzy the week before, René went through the topo for Salbit and gave me a bit more detail about the pitches. It was nice to get some idea of what to expect and the target time has been set at 10hrs. The only pitch I was really nervous of, the crack one, you can climb the outside of it until the top when you have to get in it to finish it off. It all sounds great and I'm super psyched.

Goal for this week coming - a fingerboard session.

Thanks guy. 

I don’t think I’ll be overcoming gravity any time soon but right now the idea is getting the habit of bike commuting and riding at the weekends back in my head. It used to be so normal and then I just stopped... So even though the reintroduction has sort of been forced, it’s a good thing. 

I'm not that far off my goal weight (I hate to call it that as I’d rather go off what I feel like) but I know I’m fairly trim at 8st12 so I’ll go with that. I have just over a stone to lose and I started off at a lot more than this so that’s all positive. 

The gymnastics really highlights areas which are weak and I’d never even thought about. My wrists, glutes and general core strength is poor, which to be fair is no great surprise. No classes this week (not sure why, it was just announced at the end of Tuesdays class) so I have some time to practise at home. I can almost do the splits which I’m very happy about

Monday: 75 miles from Kendal on bike and gymnastics eve.

Tueaday: 30 mile bike, gymnastics in eve, with a bonus “escape from the cemetery” wall climbing game with my bike at 10 o’clock at night. That was... fun...?

Wed , Thursday, Friday: 26 mile bike

Saturday: doing all the shite I didn’t have time to do during the week. With all the cycling kit the washing machine was working overtime. Plus spending some time with my poor neglected hound.

Sunday: 40 mile wet, breezy, chilly hilly ride with the club. Was good to be out in a twisted sort of way.

I was meant to be going away this weekend, but didn’t. Reason not important but I still got a ride in so that’s good. 

I haven’t weighed myself this week and don’t intend to for a couple of weeks. Right now I just need to get back into the riding habit, which has been surprisingly easy (having no van) and not fret about side issues. A friend has had an absolutely devastating week which really puts my own small problems into perspective. 

So I clocked up 220 miles last week which I don’t think is too shabby for a first week back! 

This week, since there is no gymnastics on and I have a four day weeekend I may even make it out for a climb (no way!!).

With commuting and a 70 mile ride on Saturday I won’t hit 200 miles but the miles I do ride will be purposeful and will all count.

Have a good week everyone.

Monday: 45 minute z1 run, 2:20 z2-4 run, mega fun

Tuesday: 1 hour stairmaster, 45 minutes z1 run, max strength session (bench, squats, pullups)

Wednesday: 45 minutes z1 run, 5x10 minutes ARC- really find I die a death on 5th rep. I'm going to continue doing this workout and see if things improve

Thursday: 1 hour stairmaster, 45 minutes z1 run

Friday: Cleeve Hill/Castle Rock climbing- 8 short pitches. Interesting venue, not much difference in feel between S and E1 grades!

Saturday: Was supposed to do a long (3 hour) trail run in the Cotswolds but felt pretty wrecked on Friday and decided a rest day was required. 

Sunday: 6 long slab pitches at Fairy Cave Quarry, highlight was certainly Lumbar Puncture (E2 5b)

Good week for me, felt pretty knackered by Friday though. Capacity is definitely rising- doing something in the morning, lunch and evening, or two runs a day is now viable. I'm trying hard to listen to recovery signals rather than sticking religiously to the numbers, but slightly worried lazy tendencies may limit me from progressing. 

Enjoyed the weekend climbing at two new venues, felt good to get another E2 tick. Planning has commenced for the summer- now I have no job I have total freedom. Hoping to spend a few weeks on a UK road trip doing some ticks from Hard Rock (ticklist to come), spend a couple of weeks in the Bugaboos and Chamonix, and then be nice and fit for Krzygzstan. 

thanks Guy. This week had stress levels so high I was barely functioning as a human, so anything else took second place. Got in a FB session and a circuits session as I didn't really have to mentally invest in them.

Did manage to get out twice over the weekend as the main cause of stress finished (for now). Could not bring myself to push, plus needed venues where husband could climb something, so knocked off a quick bunch of grey quarry routes. Pleasant being out in a non-stressful setting.

A different sort of stress is now starting as apparently my Dad is in hospital - my Mum didn't tell me last week cos she knew everything else going on in my life, so I only found out last night. Parents and kids - I would strongly advise very careful thought before having either!!

Thanks Guy, just need to translate that hold-wrecking strength onto real rock...

A decent week, the training volume has risen this week and will rise even further next week so it's pretty tough going but I feel like I have been at least trying to rise to the challenge, the state of my finger skin would certainly suggest I've been putting in the effort.

M: Dive Team Core; I did it! 100% complete and I felt it for days! The question is, can I do it again next week?

T: Indoor Boulder; 6 move problem, 3 reps with 27 sec rest, 6 sets. All reps complete again, and I thought this problem would be too hard for the session so i'm pleasantly surprised. Although I do have to add a move on to the start next week...

W: Indoor Routes; 2 on 1 off @ 7a+ Went pretty well, could possibly have been a little harder but a yoof spent 40 minutes dogging the 7b+ that I might normally use.

T: Fingerboard; repeaters 5/5 x6 on AA slot +30kg, 2RM weighted pull ups @45kg. This max pull up has been better in the past although it is a little uncomfortable on the elbow at the top of the motion, hopefully that will ease as elbow improves.
Lower body flexibility.

F: Indoor Boulder; Do 30 moves of problem, rest same as climbing time, then do 28 moves, rest same as climbing time, repeat for 26,24,22,20,18,16,14,12 moves. 2 sets. (Should be done on a 30 move route/circuit but I only had boulders so did up/down/up on first set and quick repeats on second set)
The first set was a little easy but for the second set, I tried really flipping hard. It's the first time in a long while i've been able to try properly hard and not be reined in by some injury issue or another, in fact I tried so hard I gave myself two flappers, two blisters and a blood blister! It felt good to really push it but I felt it for days!

S: Portland; The session from yesterday really took it out of me, I was not performing well at all, after a couple of 6b+ warm ups and a repeat of Troll Team Special (7a+), I tried the crag classic Realm of Chaos (7b+) and failed to even make a dent. I couldn't even work out some of the moves, which for a 3 star classic at the grade, probably shouldn't have happened, I think I was just weak. It was quite grimy and I greased off a crimp on the onsight attempt, this issue was compounded by thin skin from yesterday, but I can't blame that entirely for my lacklustre performance. In more positive news, Mrs D ticked troll team second go, she made the crux look like 6b!

S: Lower body flexibility; slowly slowly getting somewhere with some of these stretches...
Did have a half session to do today but I was too knackered to do it, next week is going to be an epic so I need all the rest I can get...

I've got a test copy of the new Lattice app 'Crimpd' which i'll use this week, it seems handy as a log of activity and it also has custom timers for each session, the only issue I can see is that on first glance it doesn't seem to contain all of the different sessions on my plan so i'll stick to my Google sheet to keep track of things for now.

STG: (last week)
* Remember to do breathing exercises on climbing days - TICK
* 100% of 'dive team core' session - TICK!!
* 30 second handstand - FAIL

STG: (this week)
* Try to at least start all sessions (big week) -
* repeat 100% of 'dive team core' session -
* 30 second handstand - 

MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef in May
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May
* Pick a lattice max moves target for May based on result from last test EDIT- Tom says just try hard!

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 51/150
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 1/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

It was a little while ago but can dole out what beta I can remember on RoC if you want it. You might have to help me on Hombres Solaire in return at some point though as that had me completely stumped. 

Week 16

M – Cave again Tried to highball Upper Cut but wasn’t committing. After 4 goes eventually pulled CBLS/Upper Cut out of the bag. Hard to grade as I’ve got the majority of it so wired, so the 7C+ grade might stick? Tried to repeat Trigger Cut at the end of the session, but skin wasn’t having it. Hope for some other links and RPs soon – just need to keep weight in check. 

T – Stretch. Theraband shoulders routine and lots of plank & side plank. Getting back on Trigger Cut showed that my core has got weaker. 

W – #Cavesmash called off because of road closure. Hauled 5 pads and other clutter over the hill and got involved with the Breck Road Traverse (V9). Did the short version No match for climb id:86131 fairly quickly, then got suckered into a war of attrition on the full lenny. Last go at 2145 by lantern and it went down. Great consolation prize. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bhv4Tssj1st for dodgy grainy footage of the late night send.

T – AWS lunchtime special: 10x 1on/1off; 3 times; 7a x10, 3x10 press-ups; 6c with 5kg vest x10, 2x50 sit ups; 7a x10. Skin obviously trashed. Evening yoga – forgot just how hard the Didsbury yoga is!

F – Rest. Nowt.

S – Another wee MTB ride. 43km off-road with a decent amount of climbing. Great views around the Clwyds. The lady is making great improvements – thinking about a longer MTB tour later in the summer

S – Aborted trip to The Gop after heavy rain whilst driving over, so back to the cave again. Warm-up, then got Lou Ferrino (V10) 3rd RP. Then started trying Broken Sam (V11) and had 3 good goes on that – 2nd go was the best with me almost doing the last hard move. Keen to finish this off as it’s nice and low-ball and doesn’t need many pads. Matt fell off Pilgrim lots, but inspring to see his pace through all the hard climbnig - something I can definitely improve in my climbing https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh4uGrtDsPE/ 

We closed out the session trying the highball middle section of Parisella’s Lip. Pete Robins said this bit is apparently only 7A+ in isolation; chinny reckon…

All beta gratefully received, I'll have to try Hombre before I can help you out on that one though!

It looked really good, but the traverse out of Realm and the blank wall a little higher up had me completely flummoxed...

Where did you get stuck?

Cheers Guy, loved the race!

Turned up on the morning with a few folk already there and for an all comers event they looked very serious! As more people turned up it was apparent that it wasn’t going to be just a fun event. The bikes being unloaded were on the rather expensive side with some folks going for the full aero helmet, time trial bars and disc wheel set up. Felt a tad under equipped with my commute bike!

As a random aside the lass who parked next to us turned out to have grown up in the village where we live in Leicestershire, which was quite a coincidence as the race is on a small island 150 miles away on the Essex coast.

Anyway it was a glorious sunny morning so was happy to have a wander round with the wife until the kids turned up with her parents. Lots of hugs before I headed over for the race briefing and then everyone lined up for the start. The race entry was full so there were 100 competitors. Not a massive number but enough to make the start feel crowded so I decided to start from the back and just see how it went. The running course was around a country park and a mixture of trails and beach running. The initial 5k was an inner 1km loop on trails and then 2x 2km outer loops with around 1km or so on the beach.

First loop felt fine and I managed to move up a few places and felt happy going into outer loops. Hitting the beach the winter muddy trail running made a big difference, I was really happy on the sand but it seemed to really throw some people and again I was able to move past some more competitors. The second loop followed the same pattern and I got to transition feeling pretty good.

Got my helmet on and shoes swapped over and over to the start of the bike leg. In a slight change to the initial race plan the organisers had decided that the first half km or so would not be counted as race time. It was on single track lane which was still open to the public and they expected the country park to be busy. As it turned out it was a good call as we met lots of cars on the way out. Another plus was it afforded me (and the others) a brief respite and an ideal opportunity to take on fluids).

Once out on the main roads it was time to put the hammer down and was very happy to be catching and passing people. It was a really hot day so it was nice to be on the bike feeling some breeze. The bike leg went really well and I caught and passed a good number of other entrants. By the time I got back to the neutralised single track I still felt OK but also felt that I had given the ride a real good go.

Bike dropped off, shoes swapped and it was off and running again. The 3km run was the inner 1km loop and the 2km outer loop. I used the first loop to gauge how my legs felt after the ride and was pleased they still had some go in them, very glad I had done some bike to run brick sessions as part of training. Out on the final loop I was close to one other person so decided to put in one last push along the beach and passed them, from there it was just a matter of keeping the legs moving for the last half  km and getting to the finish where the kids, wife and in laws were all waiting cheering which was an amazing high to finish on.

Logged my times on Strava, the first run was 4.94 km in 27mins 29 seconds (5.33/km). The ride was 17.47km in 37.04 minutes at an average of 28.3km/h but I forgot to stop the ride at the neutralised point so stopped it at transition (still happy with the pace though). The final run was 3.2km in 17.34 minutes at 5.27/km. The wife gave me an approximate time for the entire race of 1hr.28 minutes which includes the transitions but also the no race sections.

Anyway very happy with my time, felt I had given it my all and at a guess before the official times come out I would put myself mid-way though the field.

As an aside the lass who we parked next to won the women’s event and was using it for a warm up for national triathlons as there was no swimming which was her strong suit, so taking part of her comfort zone away.

Prior to the race my week went as follows;

Monday, rest day

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 5km evening run

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 16km cycle home

Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim and 8km evening run

Friday 1km lunchtime swim

Saturday 25km cycle to check out the course round the island.

First, congrats to Alan, Si and others. A good week!

Thanks Guy. FM is doable in summer - Si did it on a visit to us in July - I think the sea level conditions (ie grease, humidity etc) are probably more key than the temperature itself.

Managed a half decent week.

Monday - rest, I think

tuesday - wall. Worst weather of the week and my free evening. Many laps on many things, no fixed structure but a lot of time pumped

wednesday - lots of lugging bit metal sheets around, surprisingly hard work and felt some good aches afterwards

thursday - 5-2-5 aerobic session, trying out the home foc board with gloves

friday - 1on1off in the morning

saturday - wedding

sunday - driving back from wedding. Tired. More lugging and construction in the evening

Not too bad. Bit tired for what I'd hoped would be a final aero session of the week last night. Try to make up for it this week. Tuesday looks disappointing weather again but Wednesday I have a gym induction at the wall which opens the door to the Lattice. Plan is another aero week, a day pass at the weekend so hopefully outside, then switch to a more measured and balanced plan after that. 

So, the autumn trip is hopefully to Smith Rock, in Oregon. Ideally some of:

- summit the Monkey

- quick ticks on classic 5.12 (stretch - 13a? Churning?)

- some decent trad cracks/corners (stretch - 11a)

- try to onsight 5.12?

- climb on Basalt and Tuff

Goals for the rest of the year are still a work in progress and hopefully support this but thinking along the lines of

- 2 more 7A+ or more, ideally in different places

- good dws season - variety of areas, classics, try hard on Gates and Window, get a decent Lulworth circuit wired for decent volume during sessions there

- get tactical redpoint tactics back - 7b+/c in a day?

- trad E3 again, maybe try an E4 by the end of the year

- continue to work on finger strength, pocket strength, and a proper trip plan (more specifically, putting the effort into a decent aero fitness base)

Thoughts welcomed!

The first hard bit as far as i'm aware, possibly the point at which the other route breaks right? I had my LH on an almost manufactured looking crimp and RH down and right, bolt just up and left of my face. I wanted to bring the RH more into the centre so I could move the LH out left to a pinch block, then above that to a good sidepull/flake. There were lots of options for the RH, all bad, so I was trying to match the manufactured crimp which is where I greased off. Several hangs trying different things yielded no results. I eventually pulled through and did about 3 more moves before deciding my heart wasn't in it.

About 4 bolts in?

Thinking through, you go over the roof by the first bolt and there's that little groove at the second that's a bit off balance. Then steep up to a break with loads of big flint holds?

In which case from the break you go big up with the right to a good hold (which is about where the other route veers right). Left hand on a not that positive sidepull slightly down and left, then roll through to the crimp with the right .

From the crimp, you clip, then left hand up to a sidepull-ish crack/slot, match, and up left again to a good heart-shaped chert hold. 

From there, feet high and go up and right to the edge of the obvious shield up and right, match by it, then grab some jugs and plod away up ok hold stamina to the ledge .

I found the high right hold after forcing my way up direct with wide opposing gastons in a show of (completely unnecessary) shoulder strength that would embarrass a gymnast, then looking right and seeing this bomber hold. Classic Dan.

That all makes sense, back on the floor thinking through it I was sure I missed some easy way of getting the RH onto the crimp, I need to find that 'not-that-positive sidepull' for the LH, cheers!

It's huge, just not super incut. 

Strange isn't it.  I can do anything apart from deeply bending forwards at my lower back forwards, which results is a seized muscle.  Touching my toes is bad, as is tying shoelaces, wiping/cleaning floor, weeding etc.

That said, the training is going well.  I don't think my core or fingers have ever been stronger.  This week I've done weighted chin-ups for the first time, hung on the smallest BM1K 4 finger edge for set of 10s, done leg raises to 90 degrees with almost good form, and done a bodyweight crossfit workout at home. Boozing not so great at 8 pints total. Details: 

Monday.  9 miles cycle commute.

Tues.  9 miles bike.

Weds. 9 miles cycle commute. Gym session:

-'tucked front lever' 3* approx 10s  with 3min rest between each rep.

-weighted chin-ups. 2*4 reps with added 12 Kg , then 2*3 of the same.

-leg raises 4*8 reps of hanging leg raises. I can’t yet do a strict leg raise to 90 degrees, so I have to compromise on form e.g a bit of a swing, or slightly bent knees or both. Getting close though.

Beastmaker 1000 session: 6 sets of repeaters 7/3s. Then a few 12s minimum edge hangs 3min rest. Hung the bottom (i.e. medium) 4 finger edge for full 12s.  Feeling strong!

Thursday. Rest. 9 miles bike. Solid hour of physio exercises.

Friday. 9 miles bike.

Sat. Rest.

Sun. 9 miles bike. 

Crossfit (style) session. I did the 'Cindy' work out, which is as many rounds as possible in 20min of 5 pull ups on BM1K jugs, 10 press ups, 15 air squats.  I did 10 rounds. Sweating buckets. the push-ups was the weakest part. Then 30min physio exercises.

BM1K workout: 8 sets of 10s hang 3min rest on bottom (i.e. medium 4 finger) edge. It seemed too easy so I tried a maximum duration hang and managed 20s on the same edge. Then I graduated onto the top (smallest) 4 finger edge.  I tried 5 reps of 10s hangs with 3min rest between. I managed 2* 10s hangs, and about 5s on the remaining 3 hangs.

Those little BM edges are hard.

Recovering well thanks Guy.

I managed a couple of sessions at the wall last week, which all things considered I'm pretty pleased with. I feel a little weak at the moment and possibly a little heavier due to comfort eating after surgery! Also hayfever season has arrived which never helps....but anyway onwards and upwards

Wednesday i went to the wall and climbed 4 of the v3-5 circuit.

Friday i went to the wall and climbed 7 more of the same circuit.

Thank you for recommending the secret stretch! I dont want to speak too soon but elbows are feeling much better after using it last week. 

Need to do more core workouts.

For unpreventable reasons sleep is not the best at the moment, stress at a medium level but diet is very good. Myself and the Mrs are on a healthy eating kick!

Hi Guy,

Thanks for stats and your faith...I see it more as a 'get out Oxford or die' ultimatum than a real goal ;p but if I can get anywhere near high 6s in tech grades by then I will be pretty chuffed!

Good week in that I did nothing during the week, then did a good bit of fun rock at the weekend. Psych seems to be better and I feel a bit more like I'm climbing in my own body, which is nice. 

M- skype physio with Nina to work out what's wrong with my fingers. Right middle is A1 pulley and some teno (left middle is the same but less). I now have some rehab and a progressive finger training programme. Apparently at sport mid-7s I should be more rigorous with working finger strength, but as I've not really been doing sport, I didn't really see myself as at that level so haven't done anything particularly useful, plus I think I've got away with fingers not being the weakest link ...until now... The good news is I can still climb (just not things that hurt), my taping is good, and I'm generally feeling much better than around my climbing slump a month ago!

T-T rehab and core

F: Quick dispatch of Mark's Roof Left-hand (f6C+), then worked out the short beta for crossing through on Mark's Roof Original (V6) - two overlapping halves, so that should go next time. Feel pretty close to Mark's Roof (f7B) too, but had to stop playing as I couldn't hold the start any more - the square hold was starting to hurt a bit on my finger. Walked past Soft on the G (f7B) and decided it is worth adding to the 'to do' list. 

S: First foray back onto Peak limestone at Dovedale. Bit of muppetry on show when we opened the pack and realised we only had a grit rack in there, and minimal screwgates, so managed to get some good drag on John Peel (HVS 5a) through lack of extenders and then built extremely laboured anchor with lack of crabs generally... paddling and cake after. Good times. 

S: Dropped the left lunge to the crimp on Gorilla Warfare (f7A) which means I'm back to being as strong as I was at Christmas, which is nice. The first bit felt easier actually, but maybe I'm in a heel-toe zone from Mark's?

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 9lbs

M - T - Rest

F - 5k run

S - Rest

S - Wall at the Rec

Another good session at the wall.  20 routes again.  Good to keep it steady.  Also managed a 5k run on Friday, still slow, but it's a start.  Things were a bit painful at the start of the week, which wasn't nice.  Hopefully that'll calm down.  Which is why I stopped the core stuff.  Just to see if it made a difference.  It didn't so I guess I'll start again next week.  Hopefully I'll increase the numbers of routes next week.  But after that I think I need to drop back again and just focus on the harder routes.  Say drop to 15 and make sure after a few fr4s I'm back up into 5+ and 6as for the 15.  Then build back up to 20 and onwards.  It's looking like it's going to be an easy trad year this year.  Diet is still poor, but that's not that surprising.  I'm on holiday next week, so hopefully I'll get a run in, but suspect climbing might not be possible.

So transition week went ok, (almost no beer, ate less, moved more), and got some climbing done, including leading a, (soft), e3 on pre-placed gear.

New training phase not sorted due to viewing and having offer accepted on a flat, coupled with some prevarication. Not sure whether TFTNA or a more sport climbing oriented is favourable at the moment. Need to review targets and then get on with it.

As you're not working at t'mo Guy you got time to sort me a training plan out? Sounds like you're going to have a busy summer. What's the target in Krzygzstan?

Well done sticking at it and sealing the deal. 

Odd that it was such an epic as Moffatrocity is harder.  The fact that you found it so hard must mean you were working some kind of weakness even if you’re not sure what that weakness was.

Reverse next.

Thanks Simon   Like your new username.

I think it's much harder than Moff. Admittedly I found the end of that (ie JR) very easy in isolation, which helped, and I'm not very good at kneebars so I could never recover at all half way along Eastwood.  Also, better lower flexibility would have enabled me to keep my feet on at the end of Eastwood, which might have helped preserve core strength although would have been slower.  Psychology also became a problem on some sessions, getting stressed with it and making silly mistakes. And i did go in poor conditions a few times.

They both take me around a minute to climb so I don't think its an energy systems thing. I'm generally good at blasting through continuous hard climbing for up to around a minute, but not so good at recovering in marginal places. This is usually more important on routes.

It's a nice crag and I admire your commitment but I definitely want a project somewhere else now

Yes - without the knee bar rest it would have been a different proposition especially if you cutting loose at the end

Yes! Lots of Portland. 

My current amended plan is: - two max strength and killer core sessions per week (well fuelled and rested) - started to get more into these. - daily stretching - possibly yoga sessions - to work on tight neck, shoulders and legs - working on doing stretches each time I do any kind of activity - long hours zone 1/2 as before but more hills to improve aerobic endurance (fasted) - another good week for aerobic - as many climbing sessions as I can humanly do (between 2 and 5 per week) - only did one last week with two days outdoors

Base phase - week 2 actual: Aerobic activity - 641 mins Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stairmaster) time - 641 mins Climbing sessions - 1 (plus two days) Fingerboard sessions - 0 Max strength sessions - 0

PLAN:

Base phase - week 3 plan: Aerobic activity - 367 mins Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stairmaster) time - 277 mins Climbing sessions - 2 Fingerboard sessions - 0 Max strength sessions - 2 

Benchmarks: Boulder grade max: V4 Lead climb max: 6c+ Top-rope max (it does count): 7a Weighted pull-top max: 10kg x 1 rep Max bench press: 40kg x 4 Max deadlift: tbc Back squats: 60kg x 4

Monday: treadmill zone 1/2, 2.5 miles, 60 mins (24:00min/mi), 572m climbed (incline 15) avHR 137bpm maxHR 149bpm (z2-1%, z1-97%). Killer core then weighted pull-ups 6kg, 8kg, 10kg

Tuesday: stairmaster zone1/2 60 mins forgot my watch to track - weighted squats and leg raises. Climbing - 4 reps on autobelays then 2 x 7a (fell near top). Then hard boulder session in the new pen.

Wednesday: treadmill zone 1/2, 2.55 miles, 61 mins (24min/mi), avHR 146bpm maxHR 156bpm (z2-47%, z1-53%). Bench press 40kg x4 x4 sets, weighted back squats 40kg x6, 50kg x6, 60kg x4 x3 sets

Thursday: rest

Friday: climbing on Cleeve Hill - lots of short routes and a really beautiful day.

Saturday: Bath walk - 21.76 miles, 7hr40mins, 1978ft elevation gain, avHR 128bpm maxHR 179bpm (z3-3%, z2-6%, z1-86%).

Sunday: Climbing at Fairy Cave quarry - slab trad. I led a VD and top-roped up to e2 6b. Enjoying working on my slab head even if my anger gives another impression!

STG:

To enjoy lead climbing, take the pressure off and have fun - really enjoying it at the moment. Want to get back to Portland soon.
Fall practice each rope session - no falls
To plan my week every Sunday - no
To keep a record of benchmarks in climbing and gym work - mainly

I know you hate slabs but it was 5b not 6b!!!!!!

Congrats on the flat, that process inevitably gets in the way of everything else in life for a while!

My Krzyzgstan plans are loose- it's a commercial "virgin peaks" expedition with ISM so basically it's up to them what we do! I just want to go and get some beta on the area and expedition climbing/new routing in general from the pros (and being involved in first ascents would obviously be nice)

I'm sure if you're clear about your medium term objectives and time/facilities available the fitclub hive mind can help you out with planning. A number of us have spreadsheets to calculate the TFTNA hours/workouts we could share, likewise for more technical climbing programmes etc.

It would be cool to tie up with you guys on Portland some time, always keen to meet more FitClubbers.

I thought I had put 5b. Might as well have been vertical glass covered in poison.

Hoping to go some weekends in May. Would be great to have a FitClub climb  

Sounds like a pretty cool trip and given me something else to add to the sabbatical possibilities.

Going to spend some time on flat and training admin this weekend, so I may well be asking great things of the collective.

Keep us posted

Getting in before the wire... But can't really remember what I've done. Definitely had a daytrip which took in both a very foggy Portland (refresher course on Hall of Mirrors) and a rather sunnier Swanage (onsights up to 6b at Dancing Ledge).

Knee back at about 90% functionality, celebrating by climbing a lot! Feeling strong and pretty excited to get outside

Totally missed the deadline I think but posting for completeness.

Not much to actually report. 

Commuted to my placement 3x. 120km and 2400m ascent ish.

No climbing or anything else extra. Last week of placement and 2 nights coaching put paid to that.

Went to Edinburgh this weekend for the YCS finals. But hoping to get out for a couple of hours this afternoon.

Next weeks plan:

BIG ride on Tuesday. Possibly doing the route of the Fred but at a leisurely pace. 

Eat well, sleep well and stretch! I've got a week off between placements so I need to look after myself a bit better.

Work got on top, very busy three months with pressure slowly ramping up towards very busy couple of weeks. got more tired as it went on and more creaky with time.

Weeks got a bit confused but was really only managing two very short sessions a week, one awful one OK.

Have now finished the extended working so looking to restart things-feel I have gone backwards but shoulder has benefited from the break, was picking up a few grumbles which have subsided.

Need to rethink approach a bit i think.