/ UKC FitClub 582

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guy127917 - on 13 May 2018

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.


For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: 


The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:


Last week’s thread can be found here:


You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500):


Tom Green: How did recovery go from what sounds like a fairly big shock to the system? I just finished Scott Jurek’s book Eat and Run- think you might enjoy it!

Si dH: Did you continue progress with the pockets this week?

AlanLittle: Ha interesting note about your first 6b by the one route setter. That implies you keep a very good logbook! Can you characterise what makes her routes tricky(er) for the grade? 

Powderpuff: One thing Dave Mcleod says about tennis/golfers elbow is that steeper bouldering tends to actually be easier than verty stuff (I think because there is less locking off?). What are the walls you use for boulder circuits like?

biscuit: Deeply unpleasant… love it! Train hard, race easy?

AJM:  Thanks for the Nina Caprez video- the route looks awesome! Jen and I will be in Portland this coming weekend as well, Ill drop you a message in the week.

Tyler: Have you got a sense of specific training that you need for your route?

Jamming Dodger: Does the name change imply you have stopped flailing? What type of van do you have? Are you self converting?

guy127917: Junk miles instead of a rest day… tsk

Dandan82: Hows the finger feeling? Sucks that you might have another trip affected by injury- hope you are staying positive and doing what you can to expedite recovery?

hms: Very zen approach! How did you get on with focusing on the journey in Portland?

Ally Smith: Good to hear you still have a job, always helps when buying a house! Thanks for the crimp size beta- a few routes I will be sure to avoid!

the sheep: Sounds like you and your wife are a good team! What are the longest rides you are planning to do?

Bones: I hope you achieved your first STG this weekend

Ardo: Ha yes I think we could all do well to remember the reason for the training! Dan John has a saying I like “The goal is to keep the goal the goal”

MauraLorrissey: It make a massive difference who you climb with! You should try climbing with my regular climbing partner ;) Good job with the pull-up programme- can definitely see that paying off quickly!

planetmarshall: Well done getting out on the trails and the E1 tick. What did you get done on the bank holiday?

mattrm: Whats the plan for the next few weeks- gradually increasing activity?

Just Tintin: Was the bank holiday Monday similarly laid back?

mrchewy: Sounds like you should be fully psyched and ready when you do get back into training!

Andy Nelson: Sounds like life is hectic! I take it you don’t have a helpfully planned honeymoon to Ceuse etc? 


TheFasting, Richard Popp, cyan, Climbthatpitch


Jamming Dodger on 13 May 2018

Haha no it has been my username for a long while. Just reclaimed it. The gymnastics is still a “thing”. It’s just a lot harder than I was expecting (in a good way).

Been a bit of a lazy old week. Working from home is having a serious impact on my commuting miles but it’ll come back.

So Monday had a friend over which meant after only about 2 hrs of sleep (too frickin hot!) I wasn’t in the mood for anything but a dog walk (and Work) on Tuesday. 

Wedneaday 26 mile bike commute.

Aaand nothing but dog walk for the rest of the week. I’m working my fingers to the bone trying to get all designs done before I leave. Probably not going to happen but I’ll try my best.

On tueaday (I think) I’m back off to Kendal to collect the van. It’s a new style renault trafic. Drives really nice but the roof is going to make all the difference and now the Altro floor is sorted I can start laying furniture without worrying about pulling it up again. It’s still a work in progress but I will be away in it next weekend in it’s threadbare state.

So next week is a recce ride to my new Work place (Westhoughton) and probably a ride mid week then climbing/ hiking at the weekend. Something chilled but away from home.

Enjoy your week everyone!


Post edited at 23:14
guy127917 - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: 4 classic routes O/S at Hen Cloud including Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) and Hen Cloud Eliminate (HVS 5b) which were both outstanding and incredibly painful!


Tuesday: 45 minutes Z1 run, max strength session- squats up to 120kg, bench up to 95kg.


Wednesday: 2 hour run (felt awful for some reason), 1 hour on the stairmaster


Thursday: Rest day


Friday: Blacknor South- RP’d Medusa Falls (7a), onsighted To Wish the Impossible (7a) (felt really easy) and dogged Turned to Stone (6c+) (should go next time!). Weather kicked us off and had to ab down to retrieve draws in the rain! Pleasing day, my second 7a onsight. 


Saturday: The Cuttings- RP’d Perihelion (6b) which was the only 6b I hadn’t been on- I have just The Bournemouth Flyer (6b) and Gourmet (6a) left to tick at those grades and below (excluding choss). Had a few goes at Mindmeld (7a+) on top rope. I did all the moves and pretty much through the crux from the ground, so should go relatively quickly, maybe next weekend- would be my second 7a+. 


Sunday: 3:15 trail run, slow pace but knackered after!


An ok week training wise- starting to get the volume back up. It didn’t feel that hard overall so will up my game again this week. I’m happy with my climbing performance over the weekend- feel like I’m making progress. My finger didn’t hurt too much although I could feel it throughout the weekend. Mindmeld happily has all the crimps on the left hand so wasn’t an issue at all. Felt good to complete a couple of Joe Brown classics on Monday- gives me confidence for some classic rock ticks over the summer!


I saw an Osteopath on Thursday about some recurring leg/hip pain I’ve been having. He said it was probably tendonitis and that stretching certain big muscle on the front of my leg should really help. He laughed at how stiff some of my muscles are! This week I’m trying to really put some time/effort into stretching to see how it goes. 




AlanLittle - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG: Long weekend coming up - get some sport climbing in *somewhere* despite the terrible weather forecast. Yes, see below

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 


Partners & trip organisation are my biggest issues at the moment. The guy I've done most of my hard projecting with in the last few years is in a new relationship & rarely to be seen. The friend I'm going to Kaly with in the Autumn shows little inclination to go climbing now; he's good company and a rock solid belayer, so the trip will go ok regardless, but I'd prefer to actually get into the swing of projecting stuff together beforehand.

Maybe I give up too easily too. Case in point: cancelled a hoped-for long weekend in the Frankenjura this week in the face of a poor weather forecast, only to have the weather turn out nowhere near as bad as predicted. Got a couple of days in doing other stuff instead, one of them decent. 

Need to improve on this, not sure how. Have found a local facebook climbing partners group that seems pretty active. I don't really do facebook but maybe I need to start.


M: 45 minutes shoulders, wrist extensors, mobility & stretching

T: Boulderwelt with my son. Light session, in the hope that weather will permit getting something done on the upcoming long weekend.

W: Bike one hour

T: 45 minutes shoulders, mobility & stretching

F: Sport climbing, Kochel. Disaster, climbed like shit.


S: Sport climbing, Konstein. Much better: I have a project. Konstein is the home of the first UIAA VIII- (6c+) I ever tried, five years ago. Today was the first time since then that I've found it dry, so back to work. Lovely little route that totally suits my current state of fitness but is completely not my style - short, intense, three bolt / twelve move boulder, quite steep, with big powerful moves on mostly decent holds. Great fun, feels harder for me than some 7a's I've tried. Just hope I can motivate a partner to get back there & catch it dry again some time soon.

AlanLittle - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Ha interesting note about your first 6b by the one route setter. That implies you keep a very good logbook! Can you characterise what makes her routes tricky(er) for the grade? 

M log isn't *that* detailed, there's only a couple of local routesetters whose styles I would even say I recognise. But Rikki is one of them; she mostly sets vert stuff and her routes usually have some kind of section with a non-obvious sequence where I can't see what to do on the onsight. The one last week nearly had too, until I found the hidden pocket round the arete.

mrchewy - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Funny how we all know we should stretch but need to pay a physio to tell us - hope the tendonitis has eased. Finally finished what was a 26 day stint at work on Friday arvo, never thought that would happen again but in the longer term it's been good for picking up where I left my work 3 years ago and whilst I've no intention of working full-time, I need to work a little more now I'm rather more UK based and having to rent a room rather than live in a van.

Mon - Nada

Tue - Nada

Wed - Nada

Thu - Good stretching session and weighted mobility. Also did a load of scapular shrugs on the finger board and everything is moving and working how it should.

Fri - Roller session. For the same reason as you Guy. Ouchy ouch.

Sat - Slept till 8am (proper late for me) and then stayed in bed a while watching Font videos, also lots of Talo in la Pedriza. Slab heaven to get the psyche high for Swizzy. Some hangs on the fingerboard.

Sun - I had planned to head to Loughborough bouldering but headed back to bed at 1pm and just slept. Much needed.


Importantly, I've come out of the work craziness not injured and feeling okay - Mr Kettle's red traffic light was on again on Sunday, so took it seriously and rested.

Generally, my core is much stronger than 4 weeks ago which is to be expected and it won't go amiss. I've treated every day as a training for Salbit day, often stood up for breaks and the legs feel pretty mullered. Desperately missed climbing this last week, so back training tonight - maybe get on Paul's home wall and see where I am.

Climber van life - decided I really don't want to invest time and money in another van when no one has any idea where the government is headed with regards to diesel motors and access to cities etc. Looks like shorter trips from now on if I'm honest and I can get by with the car.







AJM - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM:  Thanks for the Nina Caprez video- the route looks awesome! Jen and I will be in Portland this coming weekend as well, Ill drop you a message in the week.

Cheers guy.

A quiet week. Monday we saw friends in the new forest - I was meant to cycle home (MrsAJM cycled there) but it was just too hot, so I bailed. Work has been really hectic so nothing in the evenings. We had a wedding in Lincoln this weekend to go to so that basically wiped the weekend out - I went to the hotel gym Saturday morning for a short but good session. I was supposed to sneak out to Anston on Sunday but the faff of logistics all got a bit much and in the end I decided I just didn’t really want to go on my own enough to create that faff. 

My big thing for the week was an afternoon out on Thursday. I needed a bit of a break so saw the chance and rearranged a few things. Had an excellent session at Coastguard. Onsighted the excellent Nothing but the Groove (6c+) and Superfly Guy (7a), plus a few easier things.

Also had 2 trips up Wax Museum (7b+). There’s 2 tough sections - the section past  the drilled mono and a gap between the flakes higher up. The team worked out beta for both in the end although I didn’t actually do the moves past the mono - need to unleash the try hard for that sequence, and to come back with better shoes as the feet on that section are small and polished. The gap between flakes I worked something out for, although it would need some refinement and engraining. The rest is easier and the route, aside from the mono, is excellent.

my elbow also barely did anything all afternoon, just a grumble on one of the warmups, which hopefully means I’m through the worst of that scare.

Weather looks promising for the week. Hopefully outside Tuesday evening and the weekend, possibly on the bike another evening too?

Dandan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Turned to Stone (6c+) is really good isnt it? Tough at the grade but very rewarding.

> Dandan82: Hows the finger feeling? Sucks that you might have another trip affected by injury- hope you are staying positive and doing what you can to expedite recovery?

The finger, well, it's the same really, just kind of a little stiff in the knuckle, no worse and no better so I don't think it's going to be an issue for sport routes, even up into the 8's. I won't be trying  Niña Mala (8b) this time around as the mono crux is that exact finger, and i'm going to stay off the woody until at least after the holiday but aside from that it's mostly business as usual.

M: Rest

T: Lower body flexibility; felt particularly tight, I really need to increase the regularity of this session. I heard on a Podcast this week that you should stretch once a week for every decade of your life...

W: Lattice test; Skipped the max hang for obvious finger reasons but did the max moves and decay.
Max moves was 113 which was identical to last time, it felt hard very quickly and I wonder if I needed to warm up a bit more to get a better result but I don't think it would have been far off regardless.
Decay was significantly different though, 85 (75%), 89, 75, 56, 51, 41, 41.
This makes a graph with a much larger area under the curve, it's also the first time I have gone over 75% on my second rep. The baseline is 4 moves more than before. I've not had a full report from Tom but he said he is 100% happy with my forearm fitness, he thinks it's exactly where I need it, time to get my head in the game to hit some big numbers outside! I certainly feel like my recovery on route is better than ever, these numbers indicate that i've got a fair old buffer of fitness to achieve 8b, so we shall see.

T: Indoor Routes; 2 on 1 off; did half the session but the elbow was feeling a little grumbly so just climbed a couple of single routes instead of the second half. Put the grey 7b/+ to bed on the wave wall, onsighted a new 7a+ that had so far shrugged off all attempts from other people. (I got to name it, called it Eichhornchen)
Dive team Core; 80%, was starving hungry!

F: Aero Fingerboard; 7/3 for 10 minutes at 30% max. Felt good.

S: Portland, Coastguard; Up early to catch the tide and have another crack at Tennessee (7c), I made some really encouraging beta changes, found a small foothold for the crux move that turns it from a low percentage lunge to a much more likely snatch from a locked-off position. Also refined the top section to ensure I don't blow the redpoint on easy ground! The crux was ok conditions-wise but the lower, steep section was super slimy, making even rest holds feel hard to grip so I declined a redpoint attempt. It was optimistic going there early on an overcast day so not unexpected.
Moved back around to the North section and onsighted Spare Rib (7b), another hidden gem that i'd never heard of! Then Mrs Dandan nearly ticked it on her 2nd try! Amazing.
Elbow was really complaining so I used my Armaid on the muscle next to the tender one, as indicated by Huffy. Apparently it is tightening up as it needs to work harder to help the tender muscle, I found a knot so hard I thought it was bone, 10 minutes later the elbow felt 99% better. Must keep up with this massage!

S: Core; dish, crunch, plank, leg raise, repeat.

STG: (Last week)
* Don't make finger worse! - TICK
* 30 second handstand - FAIL

STG: (this week)
* Don't make finger worse! - 
* Get on Tennessee again at weekend, conditions permitting - 
* 30 second handstand - 

MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Terrence Hill in Margalef in May - 
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 57/150
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 1/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

hms - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Not very Zen in my approach but I think this weekend I kept very calm about onsighting and it paid off.

M - Ban y Gor, as reported last week.
T - cycle commute.
W - cycle commute. FB warmup then 7/3/6/1 x10 on slopers.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes in evening. Gravity seemed a tad high so rather than get frustrated trying hard stuff swapped instead to bulk. 18 routes in pairs or more, mostly around 6b+. Would have gone for more but H was getting bored.
F - 2 miles urban walking. Core session.
S - Portland, Blacknor North. 6a x3, 6b x2, then OS of Wolfgang Forever (7a), followed by OS of Appleturnoverload (7a+). Chuffed.
S - Portland, Cuttings. Working Nightmare Scenario (7c). Think I have now led every move but 1 and put some decent links together.

Skin now feeling thin and sore and shoulders/back sore and achy. Think a couple of days of rehab may be needed. 

MauraLorrissey - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> MauraLorrissey: It make a massive difference who you climb with! You should try climbing with my regular climbing partner ;) Good job with the pull-up programme- can definitely see that paying off quickly!

I would have her any day!!


Ally Smith on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:


Week 19

BHM – As per last week: Ban-y-gor. 6b OS, 6b+ OS, 7b+ RP, 7b RP, 6b OS.

T – Nowt

W – Tor. Damper than last week. Warm-up then RP effort on Cave Slave (f7C+). Got as far as last week, but with much wetter hands and feet! Gave up and tried RP’ing Let's Get Ready To Rumbleweed (Standing Start) (f7C+). 2 good goes, both ending at the cross-under for a 2-finger pocket (2 moves further than previous high point in Oct). Repeated the final 7B section to cement in RP engrams. 

T – An-cap triples x7 using boulders/start of the ridiculous “6c+” circuit which is actually about 7b+/c? “V5-6” problems were too easy (some as easy as V2!?!) and the “V6-7” too hard (V8/9?), so this session ended up a bit too easy. 10min continuity aero-cap. Static core session. 40s/20s off: 6x high v-sit; 6x low v-sit; 6x each side plank; 6x plank. All wearing 5kg vest. Middle turned wibble afterwards.

F – Nowt

S – Also nowt.

S – Kilnsey! The feared for flash pump on the warm-ups didn’t happen: (6c lead, 7a TR; then 7b/+ bottom of project). First dogging go – got draws in the crux section and cleaned it up. Moves felt easier than last year. 2nd go: Draws in all the way and a good link through crux #2. Wrist painful and clicky on undercuts, so 7b retro-flash, then 7b/+ speed repeat and cleaned.

Dandan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

At the risk of sounding rude and inviting myself, i'd really like to do a weekend at Kilnsey with you this year Ally.

Tom Green on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hi All. Thanks Guy -you are  right about it being a bit of a shock to the system! R knee still a bit sore and tweaky -obviously not great when I should be upping the volume of Z1 work and progressing with hill sprints. I'm going to give it another chilled week and if it's still not right will get it seen to.


Last Week:

M: Rest

T: Climbing at Aldery. Six routes before rain stopped play, including The Arete (E1 5a) which gets me a step closer to one of my STGs. Nice route but a bit of a cheat tick as it's very much 'my style'! Need to keep forcing myself to choose anti-style routes.

W: Rest

T: Rest

F: Rest/Drink to excess.

S: Hill walking in Lakes. 5h Z1. Knee slightly sore.

S: Hill walking in Lakes. 6h Z1. Knee moderately sore.


Next Week:

280mins of Z1 (low impact)

2 Core sessions

2 Max strength sessions

1 Climbing session



Sandstone Trail in <10h (TICK)

E1 on 3+ rock types (1 down)

Boulder 6B in Lofoten.



El Cap Nose Day

Possibly Welsh 3000s?

Kyrgyzstan new routes.



Jaz (M8)

North Face Original Route (ED1)

Si dH - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Great effort onsighting 7a Guy. I'm amazed how close your onsight and redpoint grades are. BLH is a really tough HVS too and i thought some places gave HCE E1?

Bit of a holding week for me.

STGs (April-June):

7B in Font (tick) 

Eastwood Traverse (tick)

The Mentalist


MTGs (July-November):


3x7B/+s from North Wales Rock (wishlist prepared!)


Powerband (stretch goal...) 



7B+ on my next Font trip. 

Powerband if not in 2018. 


M:  4 rounds of TRX exercises (ie reverse flies, low rows, IYWs) and 4 sets of 20 leg raises.

T: Short, poor session at the wall after work. Focused on 3 finger problems on the woodie again but felt weaker than previously. To be fair it was quite humid. Forgot to do the bodyweight leans off a bar, oops.

W: rest

T: Fingerboard, max hangs on 4-finger half-crimp followed by 3-finger drag on the 20mm edge, then a few other things. Fairly long session due to impending weekend without any exercise, and felt pretty strong.  Also did 4 sets of all tge usual TRX exercises and 4 sets of kettlebell swings.  Good session.

F-S: stag do in Berlin. Too much booze, sausage and kebab. Did quite a bit of walking but still picked up a good bit of extra weight that needs losing!



Post edited at 10:01
Ally Smith on 14 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

Not rude - pretty sure i've pestered you previously into coming up north!

Wknd 9/10th June work? Or are you still in Spain?

Dandan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

I'll be back from Spain but heading to Devon that weekend on a group "Surfing" holiday, by which I mean i'll be going to Anstey's Cove. ;)

Stag do on the weekend of 23/24 June so that's out too.

So perhaps 16/17 pending permission or mostly free for remainder of summer...

Ally Smith on 14 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

Emailed instead - happy to find other weekend(s) too

guy127917 - on 14 May 2018
In reply to Si dH:

> Great effort onsighting 7a Guy. I'm amazed how close your onsight and redpoint grades are. BLH is a really tough HVS too and i thought some places gave HCE E1?

It wouldn't surprise me if people claimed E1 for those, they were certainly "proper HVS" as described in the BMC guide. Whilst I had to concentrate on them, they weren't near my limit, more just a bit of an unusual style for me (ie jamming!). 

I'm hoping to get some separation in the RP grade this year ;) I do definitely need to get on more harder climbs (7b/+ probably) to get a feel for what it would take to project them this year. I do tend toward "working my way up" and just nudging the comfort zone rather than trying something way out there (I think TheFasting said a while ago "i'm just going to do *all* the easy climbs and then I'll have to work on the hard ones!". I probably just need a gentle nudge from one of Portlands resident wads. 

the sheep - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: Sounds like you and your wife are a good team! What are the longest rides you are planning to do?

Thanks Guy, we do try our best to encourage each other and get our required training in. Cycle wise im not looking to get any great distances in at the mo so probably only up to 50km or so at the moment. Maybe look to go longer after the next couple of Tri's. Its finding the time thats the tricky part, popping out for a couple of hours is good but planning for longer does take it out of the day. Had  a good week gone by with plenty of volume to the training.

Monday, 6km gentle run with the wife

Tuesday, 1 km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home

Wednesday, 1 km lunchtime swim, 24km ride home then out with the wife and her running club for a nice 8km trail run

Thursday, 2 km lunchtime swim followed by stretch class 

Friday, 1 km lunchtime swim and 22km ride home followed by 5km run

Saturday, 20km sprint on the road bike in the morning and leisurely 1km swim in the afternoon.

Rest day for me, half marathon for the wife so me and the kids were there to cheer her off and applaud her finish



Dandan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> I probably just need a gentle nudge from one of Portlands resident wads. 

I'm not willing to label myself as a WAD but i'll throw some suggestions out there.

I can suggest several 7b's that I thought were very amenable for the grade,

Spare Rib (7b)

Stay Golden (7b)

The Mask (7b)

I Walk the Line (7b) (it has a big reach/pop so easier if you are tall-ish)

I can't suggest any particularly gentle 7b+'s as I've done very few on Portland but I can suggest the best one;

Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+) is a joy to project, it's a great endurance test but high in the grade in my opinion.


Tyler - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Tyler: Have you got a sense of specific training that you need for your route?

A very pertinent question as it's something I've been pondering myself and something I'm keen to take advice on. I think I need some power endurance excercises but the wall I go to isn't that conducive to 4x4 so I think I need to work something out on the campus board. Going to try some F on C on the small rungs or else just try and do some links of the traverse with 1 rest between goes. Ideally if I could work my way to 20 pull ups I'd probably be fine but I'm not able to train them with my shoulder and elbows.  

M: Project, borrowed a knee pad and I now consider this essential, managed to link last two bolts.

T: Rest

W: Evening on project, minimal time so after doing Bulgette I tried going through the roof from the ground for the first time and it went fine, didn't try going any further. Had one more attempt on this link which went ok but hands were a bit damp.

T&F: Rest

S: Short day on project. Tired to link last three bolts but dropped the very last move, not bothered about this as got through the crux and still had some left.  Went to 50th Birthday party which resulted in a speeding fine, sleeping in the car (logistical issue with taxi, I think), flat battery and the worst hang over for years. Sunday was a write off and still feeling rotten today. Don't want to think of the calories consumed. 

Richard Popp - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917: Thanks Guy, I had decided to leave Fit Club,  confluence of things led to me feeling a bit disheartened about the whole idea of improving, but having watched the Hazel Finlay video I feel a bit more optimistic. I had it in my head she was back at 8c in twelve months-all feels a bit more realistic now.

I have dropped the strength program for now-I know it is the way to go but may be next Winter. So it is two weekday circuit sessions, each calibrated one weekly basis for constant improvement in grade and volume and one weekday finger board, weighted repeaters probably and then do what I can at the weekend.

Two weeks ago I managed the above+ a session a Cheddar-five routes 5+ to 2x6b all lead putting the clips in quite chuffed = a session at Shorn, 2x VS and 3 x HVS led all, one of the VS's was terrifying being both greasy, sandy and it felt a the time bold.

Last week, an absolute stinker of a cold has forced me to bed just as the great weather appeared, my last cold leading to time off work was two years ago almost  to the day-what is that about?

Very snuffly still but back at work, will see how it goes.




planetmarshall on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> planetmarshall: Well done getting out on the trails and the E1 tick. What did you get done on the bank holiday?

After many years of trying and failing to persuade anyone to go up there, I went up to  Kinder Southern Edges with Coel Hellier. Add a trad grade to each route

Mon - Hike up to  Kinder Southern Edges (conveniently accounted for about 1 hour of Z1). Seconded Flash Wall (VS 5a) - must be one of if not the hardest VS in the Peak. Failed on Moneylender's Crack (VS 5a) (Green, sheep poo in cave, bit birds nesty). Went to Upper Tor and climbed the tremendous Upper Tor Wall (HS 4b) to convince myself I could still climb.

Wed - Strength and Conditioning. Numbers are total volume (sets x reps x weight)
 - Core.
 - Supersets of:
  - Wide Pullups (1600kg) /DB Shoulder Press (800kg) 
  - DB Bench Press (960kg)/ Bent over row (800kg).
 - 1 RMs on Box Steps (30kg). Significantly more unstable on left side - something to work on.

Fri - Strength and Conditioning. 
 - Core.
 - Supersets of:
  - Wide Pullups (1800kg) /DB Shoulder Press (900kg) 
  - DB Bench Press (1200kg)/ Bent over row (1136kg).
 - Front Squats

Sun -  Stanage PopularCentre Stage (HVS 5a) (Lead,OS). Attempt on Cave Arete (HVS 5a) but couldn't fathom the crux at that grade. Downclimbed via another route - one to come back for.


 - 4 hours Z1 (A pitiful 1 hour this week despite the weather. inexcusable.)
 - Increase volume on Strength and Conditioning workouts


 - Peak District fell races Grindleford (21st June), Hope (27th June), Hathersage Beginning July). Achieve top 25% in at least one.

- Kalymnos in Sept (on an Adrian Berry Coaching Holiday). Might follow it up with a week in Leonidio. Start a training cycle for this in June.

 - Routes : 

The File (VS 4c)
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b)
The Hen Cloud HVSs

The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a)
The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)

- Problems

Crescent Arête (f5+)
Banana Finger (f6A)


- Ama Dablam possibly end 2018
- US/Canada trip in Winter 2018


London Wall (E5 6a)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
The American Direct (ED1)

AlanLittle - on 14 May 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

The American Direct (ED1)

Er, does this still exist?

Post edited at 17:11
AJM - on 14 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

Not that I've been on it, but Zinc would probably have been my pick partly for logistics - unlike some of the other contenders (Road Rage, Realm of Chaos, Wax Museum etc to mention things which get mamy stars) it's away from the sea so an easier limit project to get the time on in good conditions.

Avenging the Halsewell (7b) is also worthy of a mention - steep, good holds, the opportunity for multiple kneebars, what more could you want. 

biscuit - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

Yes that was the plan and it seems to have worked. I'd done all the passes a couple of times each and all the sections so I knew what was coming and had my tactics sorted - go slow and keep eating.

I did a days commuting and one little leg spinner only in the run up to the ride itself.

The day before i actually went climbing - more to burn off excess energy than anything else. YAY! I was rubbish BOO! But predictable. Just faffing about on Red Wall traverse at trowbarrow in the sun. I have no An Cap at all. 4 or 5 hard moves and i'm blown.

The ride itself went amazingly well. Threw it down all night and I was worried it was going to be an awful experience but it stopped at 4.30am and by the time we were at the start it was turning into a perfect biking day. A little breeze and sunny, but not too hot. 

So I got round 113miles and 3900m of climbing in 9hrs 2min overall and 8hrs 5min moving time. Very happy as that's an hour faster than I was thinking. More pleasing was that I got over Hardknott without pushing after 92 miles. 

Time for a biking break I think. Keep ticking over with the odd long ride, some commuting when i'm psyched for it and then when I've finished uni start getting fit for the Marmotte. I've been missing climbing and whilst this year isn't going to be any great shakes on that front i'd like to have some fun in the 7's and get some trad done.

Tyler - on 14 May 2018
In reply to biscuit:

Nice one biscuit

Cyan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

Gonna go in a different direction from most of the suggestions - Guy, having seen you bouldering indoors and given swift progress with Mindmeld, I wonder how you would get on with Sign of the Vulcan...??

Cyan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Too much climbing, not enough rest this week.

Mon: Neddyfields. Did some better-than-expected 6's, highlight probably Wonderlust (6b) - steep and juggy with a tech bit at the top.

Tues: Wall. Loads up to V4ish.

Wednesday: Fingerboard, triple reps of steep V3, working assorted V5/6 stuff - progress but no ticks.

Thurs: Wall. For some reason the 45 seemed like a good idea. Useless. 

Fri: Travel to Portland.

Sat: Blacknor North. Pleasant day belaying hms on some fine onsights Ticked some low grade outstanding business and got shut down by Sanfte Kuss.

Sun: Cuttings. Least said the better! 

Dandan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to Cyan:

> Gonna go in a different direction from most of the suggestions - Guy, having seen you bouldering indoors and given swift progress with Mindmeld, I wonder how you would get on with Sign of the Vulcan...??

It's still on my to-do list so no giveaway in my mind, but very good. Bonus points for holding the namesake hold correctly! 

Cyan - on 14 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

Certainly not implying it's easy!!  

Ardo - on 14 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

W/C 07/05/18, (Training week 2: hypertrophy, technique)

Mo: General walking, 6.8 miles. 4 sport routes.
Tu: Commuting walking, 6.7 miles. Rest day.
We: General walking 6.5 miles. 20 problems, (10*2, up/downs), 2 a/belay routes, 2x15 min ARC.
Th: General walking, 7.7 miles. 5 problems, 2 a/belay, 3 lead routes.
Fr:  General walking, 9.5 miles. 7 peak boulder problems. Gig in Sheffield, with a few cheeky beers.
Sa: General walking, 7.9 miles. Rest day, (mild post-gig hangover).
Su: General walking, 5.3 miles. 2 sport routes, (1 warm-up and umpteen attempts at 7a!).
- weight 10st 9lb/bf 16.4%

Got a surveyor organised, some training in, some climbing done, a 7a project and a gig and beers, so all good. Need to tidy up the diet and increase training intensity, but moving things forward after the rest and transition weeks.

MauraLorrissey - on 15 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I had a tough training week... was very sore by Friday. 
*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) - week 2 pull up program complete
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - two sessions  (at a push)
*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - tick 15km
*100km cycle - Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered 
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by June
*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by June
*buy a van by the end of 2018 - decided to put this on hold for several reasons
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) -
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
Thylogale Track - Mt Nebo 10.3km
Chin-ups 3x4 (with band) / chin-ups (slow lower) 3x3
Plank challenge - 3 minutes
T/R session - kept it to non-crimp routes. Tried a fun dyno route. New crack routes - good fun with great lay-back moves and smearing. 
AM: Training (was wrecked after this) 3x (x5 push up, x10 Tibetan suns/x15 8kg goblet squats) / 4x (12kg K/B swings - 1 arm x 10, double x15) / 10x (x10 fast light squats 30kg, x10 fast thrusters 22.5kg) / Smack sit ups / back raises 
Training: x2sets (x100 skipping, x50 mountain climbers, x30 squats, x20 jump lunges, x10 weighted sit ups, x5 push ups) / x6 sets beast makers*, block run, 7kg dumbbells.
*these are technically called man makers but that is sexist!!! 
Training: x4 sets - 2min each varied step ups, block run / foam roller session  
Cycle - mini river loop 15.3km, average speed 22.6km
Social climb - couple of overhangs
planetmarshall on 15 May 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

> > The American Direct (ED1)

> Er, does this still exist?

At least for the moment. The American  Diretissima and the Bonatti Pillar are both gone.

guy127917 - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

> Turned to Stone (6c+) is really good isnt it? Tough at the grade but very rewarding.

Yes its great- everything on that wall is amazing! The bottom section is tricky and the top section is fun. I didn't quite work out the crux move to the left hand 2 finger pocket but it should go next attempt or two I think. 

guy127917 - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for these, will definitely check them out.

guy127917 - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Cyan:

Interesting.. I was looking at that line on Saturday thinking "how on earth does *anyone* climb that...".

Can't hurt to give it a go after doing Mindmeld this weekend though!

Post edited at 08:23
guy127917 - on 15 May 2018
In reply to biscuit:

Well done on getting round and beating your goal time!

Powderpuff on 15 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:


Hey Guy,

Am I to presume you have Dave Macleods book on injuries? Ive climbed less steep stuff of late so this has perhaps not helped the elbows. I saw your comment yesterday so I climbed exclusively on the 45 last night. Elbows feel good today which is a good sign especially given I forgot to do the magic stretch altogether last night. Thanks for pointing this out.


3 sessions at the wall last week.

Mon: elbows didn't feel geat so i concentrated on problems with open and sloper holds. Climbed 2 of the v3-5 circuit, repeated 2 of the v4-6 circuit and worked a couple of harder problems.

Wed: climbed 2 of the v3-5 circuit, and climbed 2 new v5/6 problems.worked some harder problems too. Exercises, did 2 sets of sit ups, scissors, push ups and eccentric wrist curls.

Friday: felt tired. Climbed 5 of the new v3-5 circuit.

Sunday: small session at home, consisting  of 3 sets of the same exercises from Wednesday. 

In a couple of weeks time I'm going on a family holiday to the lakes. I may get a free pass to go bouldering if the stars allign. i will probably go to virtual crag if I get chance as we are near coniston.  I may take it easier (for me) in the couple of seesions at the wall prior to going so I feel fresh just in case.


Dandan - on 15 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I just had a quick look through my files thinking I had some Vulcan beta but sadly not. I'd be keen to work it with you but I doubt I can drag Mrs Dandan away from the West coast this side of winter!

Powderpuff on 15 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Me and the missus are on a healthy eating kick which is definitely having benifits training wise. Cooking from the BBC healthy eating books alot. I'm eating less carbs on non training days also.

Work stress is mid to high so need to compensate / manage this.

guy127917 - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Powderpuff:

I do have Make or Break but I think the section I mentioned is actually in 9/10 climbers. I haven't personally gotten much useful specific information from the former- I should probably reread some of the common injury sections again. The most important message of make or break is to be really proactive in seeking expert diagnosis and treatment from day 1 of your injury (or even before!)

On a related matter I listened to a podcast with Dr Jared Vagy author of "Climb Injury Free" recently. He sounded knowledgeable so I might pick that up- has anyone else here had a look through it? 

guy127917 - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

Sounds like she is on a roll so probably not a bad thing. We probably only have the next 2 weekends for the south coast before heading northward for June. July-Sep is alpine season for me anyway so maybe later in the year!

Bones [:B - on 15 May 2018
In reply to MauraLorrissey:

How about 3 weeks!! - Soon the adventures will commence!

Bones [:B - on 15 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Some great suggestions coming in for Portland. Has anyone done Aeroforce (7b) ? Looks great.

Dandan - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Bones [:B:

It's been in my sights for years but never got on it. The surrounding area can be a bit dirty and loose as it's surprisingly not that well travelled, it also stays wet for longer than a lot of the nearby bits of crag. It could well be a little gem though, I hope it is!

Powderpuff on 15 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Interesting. I have 9/10 climbers but dont recall this mentioned, I'll give it a re read.

I was interested in knowing more about make it or break, however I assumed it was more about self treatment. 

guy127917 - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Powderpuff:

My memory may be incorrect on that one. It can never hurt to reread 9/10 though!

Bones [:B - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

Sounds like a good challenge. Reckon this is the year! I definitely fancy a go.

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Good work on Mindmeld (and on getting together a nice ticklist that I can steal :p) We've both been a bit tired and possibly had a bug this week so has been slow going. Ticked Gorilla Warfare though, so at least some vague goals-related progress. 

M - Wildcat. Went to the far end and it's totally idyllic. Sunset Creek (E1 5b) is wonderful but fierce at E1, especially when the rests are just on the wrong pulley! HVS cool down. The E2 and E3 look great (less painful and more jammy) but was smashed so retired home via Mr Whippy. Definitely worth a second visit.

T - yoga

W - rest

T - lead Brookes. Finger iffy on pinches and jugs. Crimps fine.

F - working all day then late drive to Peak.

S - 6 x there and back laps of Lower Traverse (f7A). It's not 7a but it's a great outside gym endurance session. Fingers felt fine on strong moves on shallow pockets. Basically I think I'm fine as long as I'm not hitting the finger around the A1 ie jugs/deep edges!

S - AM Gorilla Warfare (f7A) dispatched pretty quickly and then transferred my dropping of finishing crimps to Early Doors (f7A+). Have my beta all sorted to the first crimp fine. Just need to go back with more juice so can bounce through for the second crimp from the lock-off.

PM Fingers still feeling okay and Ben crashed out so popped to Cratcliffe early evening to look at Jerry's Traverse (f7B). Definitely one for later in the year. Thrashed around the back of the crag and found No Hueco (f6C) . Flashed it, though suspect if I'd had a spotter and more pads my will to hang on would have been diminished somewhat... A few other bits and bobs on the way out.

Goals Check In:

LTG: (This Year)
* More days on rock and snow than last year (rock >85, snow >18) - TO DATE rock= 17, snow = 17
* Improve sleep and start stretching - wrong side of 30 and all..! - err...
* Peak Grit unfinished business list (STARTED)
* Consolidate trad E3, lead trad tech 6b
* Complete Nicklist in Morocco 
* Do some winter/alpine/DWS 
* Embrace sport climbing and do it properly. Jumping on a 7a because it looks onsightable a couple of times a year does not count. Find something inspiring in high 7s and make the effort to see what my redpoint sport max actually is... (STARTED)


Appendix A: The Peak Grit Unfinished Business List

Gorilla Warfare (f7A) - TICK

Bad Lip (f7A)

Solitude (f6C)

Emerald Crack (E3 6a)

Monochrome (f7B)

Mark's Roof Original (V6) - CLOSE

BONUS: Suavito (f7B)


Post edited at 17:10
Si dH - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Just Tintin:

Good effort getting past the Early Doors slopers in that heat?!? 

In reply to Si dH:

Thanks. It was all before 11am which helped I think - was getting distinctly un-grippy when we left as the sun really came on. I was a bit surprised to get that far, so if I manage my current grit pattern, that was the surprisingly good first session and now I'll get progressively worse for a while before putting it back together...!

Brodes - on 16 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I missed updating the log last week due to illness.  So here are my latest two weeks of exercise/training/rehab.  Forgive the excessive details - this is my only training log, and it's proving useful for tracking progress with physio and hang-boarding.

Briefly: my back is getting better.  Still far from perfect, but I no longer have trouble doing basic stuff like tying shoelaces.  Focussing on spinal mobility, increased hamstring flexibility, and lower back strengthening exercises.  My shoulders joints are a bit sore from a home-based session on front levers that I did without any warm up.

Monday 28 April. 9 miles bike. 30min physio exercises (various side, twisted and forward bending movements).

Tuesday. 19 miles bike. 1h CrossFit  - mainly weight lifting technique. 10min intense skipping, sit-ups, chin ups. 


Weds. 9 miles bike. BM1K session. Warm up of 1 set of repeaters (6*7s on/3s rest) on large 4 finger hold. 3 sets of 5 reps 12s hang 3 min rest on bottom (medium) 4 finger hold. 6 min rest between sets. 1 set repeaters 6*7/3 on 20 degree slopers. Not especially tough.


Thurs. 19 miles bike. 1hr physio on lower back flexion (bending forwards) flexibility. 1hr CrossFit. Handstands against wall, weight lifting, then intense 10min of squats, hanging knee raises and 100m runs. Good hamstring stretch and extra chin ups. Back is definitely getting better, but need to focus on lumbar flexibility.


Friday-Weds ill with stomach bug.  Generally feeling rubbish.


Thursday 10th May. 1h physio - now with new exercises including 'good mornings' with a 10kg bar and bodyweight 'Jefferson curls'.  Walked 5 miles. Quick BM1K repeaters workout on large 3 and 4 finger edges and 20 degree slopers. 8 sets of 6 *7/3. Pumpy.


Friday. 9 miles bike.


Sat. All physio exercises inc good mornings for around 45min.  Then core work including 3 max hangs of trucked front lever and 2* 30s hollow body on floor. Good hamstring and glute stretch. Right hamstring is significantly tighter than the left, which may underlie some of my back trouble.


BM1K bodyweight workout. Warm up of 6*7/3 on large 4 finger edge. 5 sets of 3*7s on/53s off on medium 4 finger edges. 3min rest between sets. Last rep was a close failure.

3 Frenchies. Essentially 5 pull-ups with 5s pauses at 4 different angles. 3min rest between. Failed towards end of 3rd frenchie.


Sunday rest.


mrchewy - on 16 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I have the book - it's far better than Dave Mac's book. It's as much about prevention as rehab, includes the most common injuries, including collateral finger injuries which I've had twice and Dave Mac doesn't even mention because I'm assuming he's never had one. I bought it when it first came out, maybe last Oct and I can't recommend it enough.


Bones [:B - on 18 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Bones: I hope you achieved your first STG this weekend

50% I’d say. Definitely had lots of fun but let frustration and exhaustion take hold too. So excited for the coming weekend. I have a growing wish list for Portland.

Boulder grade max: V4
Lead climb max: 6c+
Top-rope max (it does count): 7a
Weighted pull-top max: 14kg x 1 rep
Max bench press: 45kg x 4
Max incline bench press: 40kg x 3
Max deadlift: tbc
Back squats: 60kg x 4

Monday: Climbing - lead climbing. Did a 6c and 7a with one short pause on the rope for both because I didn’t want to take the fall. Both seemed fine.

Tuesday: Stairmaster zone1/2 (zone 3-4) avHR 145bpm maxHR 160bpm (z3-6%, z2-41%, z1-52%)

Wednesday: Stairmaster zone1/2 (zone 3-4) avHR 150bpm maxHR 160bpm (z3-4%, z2-82%, z1-14%)

Thursday: rest

Friday: Portland climbing - Top-rope ‘Medusa Falls’ (7a) - felt really good, not too tricky. Tried it on lead - need to get the second clip and then I reckon I’ve got it. Tried ‘To Wish the Impossible’ (7a) but needed a couple rests. Led a few other climbs and felt pretty good.

Saturday: Portland climbing - led Perihelion (6b) - did all the hard moves and then was so shaky on a ledge at the next clip that I held it and then tried to get it clean for the next few hours! Got a little frustrated!! Led ‘The Potting Shed’ (6a) - got it second go after overcoming my subconscious telling me to worry about the next bolt. I DON’T CARE WHERE THE NEXT BOLT IS SO GO F YOURSELF SUBCONSCIOUS.

Sunday: long run/walk 14.71 miles 3hrs 21 mins avHR 168bpm maxHR 189bpm (z5-2%, z4-16%, z3-72%, z2-8%, z1-1%)


To enjoy lead climbing, take the pressure off and have fun - yes!
Fall practice each rope session - none
To plan my week every Sunday - no
To keep a record of benchmarks and gym work - yes

AJM - on 18 May 2018
In reply to Bones [:B:

If you message me ( or if Cyan has your details) we can let you know where we will be next few days...

Dandan - on 18 May 2018
In reply to AJM, bones, guy etc:

I'll be at coastguard tomorrow if anyone fancies it, low tide at 3 so it's pretty good for access all day... 

AJM - on 18 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

3? Nearer for 4 for chesil beach on Easytide...

We will probably pass you on the way to the far end...

Bones [:B - on 19 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

I’ve messaged Hazel. We’re on our way to Coastguard

Bones [:B - on 19 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

We will be there. Looking at Nothing but the Groove area to begin with. Where will you be?

Dandan - on 19 May 2018
In reply to Bones [:B:

Camped out under tennessee, next to xaviers wall! 

mattrm - on 19 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 9lbs

M - S - Rest

S - 10 routes at the Rec

The start of the week was all holiday stuff.  So it ended up being a bit of naff week till the end when I did at least get down the wall.  I've got a plan for the weight and the like.  So hopefully I'll move slowly towards that.  Things are still a bit manic with work and baby stuff.  I keep saying it'll calm down and hopefully it will, but we'll see.

And it's nice to see Jamming Dodger back.

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