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UKC FitClub 583

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 guy127917 20 May 2018

Evening, hope you all had a great week of training and climbing in the sun!

 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

 

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_582-684756

 

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

 

Jamming Dodger: We have a LWB Vivaro- jealous of fancy pop tops every time I have a stiff neck in the morning!

guy127917: Well done for seeking medical assistance… now take their advice!

AlanLittle: Finding one new partner can be enough to help you see things a bit differently. Stay open minded and see what happens. I get you on the giving up easily though- we often sack off weekends in spring because of possibly bad weather because of the drives from London. I then spend the whole weekend wondering if we did the right thing/chastising myself.

mrchewy: I guess the stretching/prehab stuff is all about a) believing it is going to provide some benefit and b) setting good and consistent habits o its not such a struggle. Unfortunately I find it a lot easier to do both of those on the subject of training rather than stretching!

AJM: Good to meet you on Saturday- some photos at https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NlqiohPbh0JB5c53

Dandan82: Great to meet you as well, inspiring to see you warm up on some of my goal routes Well done on the thing you did on Saturday (I won’t steal your thunder)

hms: Nice to meet you on Saturday and put a face to the username! some photo of you on a pretty heinous looking route at https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NlqiohPbh0JB5c53

Ally Smith: Whats the project at Kilnsey?

Tom Green: How is the knee feeling this week? Have you been stretching your lower body muscles etc?

Si dH: Good training week after a few days away?

the sheep: Sounds like last week was a really good training week, well done!

Tyler: Correct me if I read incorrectly but that sounds like really good progress last week, well done!

Richard Popp: I’m sure Hazel would be very happy to hear that! You are always going to be able to make progress/improve in some way, it’s just a question of adopting a growth mindset

planetmarshall: I’ve never been up to Kinder at all, thanks for the grade warning!

biscuit: Congrats again on the ride! Sounds like you have your priorities quite balanced, time to enjoy some climbing! 

Cyan: 6 days out of 7… strong effort! Where did you end up on Sunday?

Ardo: Sounds like you’ve got your plan fairly well balanced- there has to be time for some hangovers!

MauraLorrissey: Not surprised you were a bit sore, seems like quite a bit of volume. How many sessions does the pull up programme have per week?

Powderpuff: Good to hear you and your other half are supporting each other with diet- hopefully a sustainable change. Don’t be like me- I try and force feed Jen chocolate so I can climb better than her. 

Rebecca Ting- Such username change- we are honoured to have one of the UKC team in the thread Congrats on the 7A unfinished grit tick also!

Brodes: Great to hear some serious time being put into rehabbing that back pain. I reckon Jefferson Curls are an underated tool!

Bones: “GO F YOURSELF SUBCONSCIOUS” Well done. Sorry for nearly killing you on the trail run. 

mattrm: Great to hear you are a man with a plan!

 

AWOL: Andy Nelson, TheFasting,  Climbthatpitch

 

 Si dH 20 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy, yep, I got a decent amount done thanks.

STGs (April-June):
7B in Font (tick) 
Eastwood Traverse (tick)
The Mentalist
 
MTGs (July-November):
 
3x7B/+s in North Wales
Caviar 
Powerband (stretch goal...) 
 
LTGs:
7B+ on my next Font trip. 
Powerband if not in 2018. 
 
M:  still tired from lack of sleep post weekend stag do, so took an extra rest day.
T: 3 x 10 second bodyweight leans off a band on 1 pad with each of middle two, front two, middle finger, index finger, ring finger. Then about 1.5 hrs at the Climbing Unit. I started with a few of the most recent comp problems and then worked the problem I made up on the board to try to replicate the crux on the Mentalist (ie moving really far off a good front 3 crimp.) I didn't do it.
W: rest
T: Fingerboard, 4 one arm max hangs (each side) on a 4 finger crimp and then 4 each side in a 3 finger drag. Generally removed 7-9 kg for 7-8 seconds, all on 20mm edge. Then did 4 two-arm max hangs  with + 9 kg on the shallow 2 finger pockets. Also 4 sets of ten kettlebell swings and 4 sets each of IYWs, low rows and reverse flies.
F: Fingerboard, 4 max hangs with 20mm edge half crimp and then 4 with the good pockets (~35 mm) but forcing myself to stay front on.
S: rest
S: Back on The Mentalist.  Best ever session, I could have done it. Had 4 goes where I got through the crux (ie got to the hold on the lip in control) from the ground. On three of those attempts I fumbled the left hand bump again to the pocket, but on one I got through it (never done this before) and then managed the next few moves too, falling as I reached the good break. I had cruised that move twice while warming up. Bit gutted but definitely a good day.
 
I'm in the lakes with family for a week from Friday, so will try and get a session or two in at the Bowderstone. Where else should I go that is good in summer and has quick access from near Keswick, any tips?
This week I'm tempted to rest for 2-3 days and then grab a late evening session on the Mentalist on Thursday, to give myself a chance of doing it before going away.
 
Si
 AJM 20 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Good to meet you on Saturday- some photos at https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NlqiohPbh0JB5c53

cheers guy - you too.

Hectic and stressful week at work. We had a CPD day on Thursday which I was presenting at, which was fine in itself but it sucked a lot of time away from dealing with an already full plate. I worked all evening Wednesday, which was a bit rubbish.

tuesday - a bit of a faff evening. Went to Force Majeure, found it was ok for working bits on but a bit greasy for linking. Made minor progress on the left hand start, and linked through the start once I think so. Not really worth it when the suns off it unless the wind is there. Then on to The Terrace (f7A) Which is cool but really needs a spotter, and I was on my tod. Finally made it to Neddyfields basically at sunset and did Ripples, Sit-start (f6B+) (Last time I was here everything had felt like butter in the heat, felt ok this time) and tried Pete's Rib, Sit-start (f7A) - could do the sit but haven’t yet sorted the sequence from the stand - slopey rib laybacking?

wednesday - stress as above

thursday - still stress

friday - relax

saturday - Coastguard. Took advantage of sun and tides to get down to the South end past the tidal trench. Warmups, then repeated Walking the King which is one of the best 6b+s going. Then got on Winning at Rodeo (7a), which probably hadn’t seen an ascent this year yet, no chalk and a bit dusty. Good trad stamina training hanging about working it out. Gave it a good fight and fell off basically the last hard bit at the top. Gave it a decent brush and did it second go. I tried Lost in Rock (6c+) when I got back to the north end, but gave up on it - a bit pooped and I need to just give up on those shoes for small edges! Good but tiring day.

sunday - parenting. Bit of walking and stuff.

hoping to get away for the bank hol, maybe Pembroke or Cornwall. Weather isn’t looking so good midweek. Need to get back in a vibe of doing stuff that isn’t just climbing during the week, elbow seems to be doing fine again now and work stress eases in maybe 2 weeks so a chance to get back into things again.

Post edited at 21:45
 AJM 20 May 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Don’t know much about it, been there once but barely remember it, but Carrock Fell?

 

good luck

 Si dH 20 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks.

Is Neddyfields where we went when I visited last summer?

 AJM 20 May 2018
In reply to Si dH:

No, that was Hidden Quarry - Neddyfields is a little further south, the other direction from the car park, but the same aspect and in the same hot weather, so whilst it was in the shade from lunchtime the flowstone was buttery  It’s old school vertical wall stuff, one of the original Portland boulder venues.

 Tyler 20 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Correct me if I read incorrectly but that sounds like really good progress last week, well done!

Thanks guy! I'm still making progress but unfortunately I torpedoed myself this week by being so hungover.

M & T: Hangover turned into cold.

W: Forced myself to the wall to blow the cobwebs away, didn't do too much.

T: Went to Kilnsey to get out of house, didn't get there until 7ish. Just hung the draws and chatted but feel privileged to be able to have one of the best crags in the country so close.

F: Rest, still feeling rotten.

S: Kilnsey, good team, linked from ground to reaching the bowling ball and from undercut and pinch to attempting the crux. Actually got someone to film me on this link, interestingly this section alone lasts 1:38 even though this is a full on PE route. 

S: Back to K, this time with Magic Mike, feeling knackered so did a couple of warm up TRs on Face Value. Couple of burns on project but not as good as yesterday. A "quick top rope of Sticky Wicket" turned into a full on dogging session (it's definitely 7b+ now) then a "quick lead of WYSIWYG" turned into a full on dogging session as well!

Not sure where I can go with the route, it's still a level above my ability and I've milked all marginal gains so need to train. Even my weight is good (celebrated by buying my first 30" waist jeans on Saturday, not sure how much wear I'll get out of them!)

 MauraLorrissey 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. The program is 4 sessions a week with a days rest in-between, which doesn't really work. I am combining the last 2 sessions and making it Monday, Wednesday and Friday. 
 
STG/Weekly:
*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) - week 3 (only 1 session before I got ill)
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - one lead session
*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - tick 35km
MTG:
*100km cycle - Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered 
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by July
*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by July
LTG:
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) - https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/bells-line-of-roa...
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
 
Monday:
AM: Max deadlift session: x3rm 70kg, x1rm 80kg
PM: 3x5 chin up lowers, 3x3 chin ups (with band)
 
Tuesday:
Cycle - river loop 35.8km, average speed 24.4km/hr
 
Wednesday & Thursday
Sick/cold  
 
Friday:
Lead session - still feeling crappy but had a good lead session, took a fall. 
 
Saturday:
rest/sick
 
Sunday: 
rest/hangover/cold re-surfaced
OP guy127917 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: 1 hour stairmaster, 45 minute run, great gym session with a mate- new bench PB of 102.5, squats up to 120, pullups up to 30 + incline bench, decline bench, seated rows and lunges.

Tuesday: Saw osteo again- he recommended taking a few days off running and lower body gym work to loosen up the muscles in my hip (Sartorius and Psoas I think). Bit gutted to lose progress with aero training but determined to stretch longer and harder to fix the issue.

Wednesday: Rest, went to see Bat Out Of Hell... slightly questionable

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Cuttings- decided today was the day for Mindmeld. Did it once to the last bolt on top rope to check beta- felt incredibly easy actually. Then proceeded to fall of the last move above the last bolt 8 times in a row. Frustrating but I was actually happy that I gave 100% on each attempt and didn't fumble any of the lower sequence in annoyance etc. 

Saturday: Feeling pretty wasted but went to Coastguard. Really enjoyed The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+). Watched Dan make Girl Power (7a+) look easy so thought I'd give it a go. Spent most of the day flailing around on it. Fell off the last move of Walking the King (6b+).

Sunday: Cuttings again, took 3 goes to send Europe Endless (6c) went home with tail between legs.

 

So a week I woudn't mind forgetting really. I have done enough sport climbing this season now to remember why people do 'training' and need 'fitness'- not sure anything will change in the near future though. The main positive from the week has been that I am actually getting into a good routine with stretching and trying to form some habits. 

 Dandan 21 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

>  I tried Lost in Rock (6c+) when I got back to the north end, but gave up on it - a bit pooped and I need to just give up on those shoes for small edges! Good but tiring day.

If it's any consolation I dogged this with 3+ hangs a couple of weeks ago, found it really awkward! (Mr's Dandan then immediately flashed it on toprope so shame on both of us)

 

 mrchewy 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy - yeah, we all like to rebel I think when it comes to stretching and antags, somehow thinking that we're different. I've learnt I'm not...

 

So it's the first week of normal work, time to get back climbing and what did I do? Only broke a sesamoid under my left big toe! Doh.

Goal - Salbit West Grat ED1 1000m

Mon - Weedon bouldering. Great session, tried lots of hard for me things. Finished of traversing and the big toe went "we're done".

Tue - Toe not so good. Walked a few miles.

Wed - Physio AM Squats PM and massive forearm DOMS!

Thu - Paul's wall with an ice climbing boot on the left foot. 5deg board, used the small holds a lot but it worked okay. The big boot only slipped twice and it felt like standing on a scaffold. 

Fri - Wedding. A long day stood up and no dancing with the toe.

Sat - Paul's wall. 10deg was too steep, so back to 5deg. Also tried to do pull-ups again, not much chance of that! Definitely stronger now everything in my back is working tho.

Sun - Walked a few miles.

 

On Monday night, I thought dreams of Salbit were over but the physio reckons with careful management the sesamoid will be fine in maybe 4 weeks. Turns out also I had broken the toe itself back last summer, probably when I stubbed my toe falling at Rubicon. 

I basically climbed all winter, Font, Siurana, Chulilla, Albarracin with a broken toe - I did complain a lot but stuck my tightest shoes on for support. I'm amazed I got through a month in Font on the slabs but there you go...

 

A good week otherwise. 3 good sessions for the fingers, the back didn't complain and the core was worked too. Super happy to be climbing again. Probably have to skip the Welsh 3000s this coming weekend but I'll put the big boots on and do what I can.

 Dandan 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan82: Great to meet you as well, inspiring to see you warm up on some of my goal routes Well done on the thing you did on Saturday (I won’t steal your thunder)

Cheers Guy, it was a regular FitClub convention at Coastguard! Great to meet all of you! 
Girl Power certainly didn't feel easy at that crozzly crux, its the first 7a+ I failed to onsight since 2016...

A good week for me, the iffy finger has gently faded away, I think I dodged a bullet there by actually stopping when I first felt the soreness. I've even pulled reasonably hard on the woody this week with no issues.

M: Lower body flexibility

T: Indoor Boulder; 7 move problem, 3 reps with 18 seconds rest. 6 sets. Back on this progressive session after a couple of weeks off and it felt good. I completed 4 out of 6 sets to be kind to the finger as this was the first time back on the woody. I couldn't imagine doing even the 6 move version with rest this short a few weeks ago so good progress.

W: Dive team Core, 80% completed, mostly due to laziness

T: Indoor Boulder; 4 hard woody problems, 1-3 tries on each with good rests.
 2 on 1 off on traverse wall, found a good hard level on the new set of traverse routes.
Also had a play with some ring muscle-ups between sessions, after studying some videos and asking a few people I wanted to try some different things through the transition period. Tried a couple of muscle ups from hanging and was surprised with how controlled I can now do them. I still need to build explosive momentum on the pull up part to get through the transition but it was slower than I expected, definitely progressing.

F: Lower body flexibility

S: Portland, Coastguard; Fought my way through the throngs of FitClubbers to get on Girl Power (7a+) which took 2 goes to tick, pretty decent route although spoiled a little by a bit of a crozzly 'non-hold' in the crux. That or I missed a different sequence, entirely likely I guess.
Went round to the South area when the tide allowed and after a bit of sun to dry up the chalk soup on some of the holds, ticked Tennessee (7c) despite some remaining dampness on undercuts, thankfully the crux section was bone dry.
Really pleased with this one, it was incredibly satisfying, the kind of route I would repeat for the pure enjoyment of it and a good ego boost before the holiday as it is about the closest thing to steep Spanish rock that you can find on Portland.
The line was covered in the most ludicrous donkey ticks i've ever seen, a 6 inch white stripe pointing to a massive ledge that you reach to statically, or a big tick on a flake that is the only hold for half a metre in any direction, stuff like that. Good thing I had my brush with me...

S: Dive team core; 100% complete, done nearly 20 minutes faster than the first time I tried.

STG: (last week)
* Don't make finger worse! - TICK!
* Get on Tennessee again at weekend, conditions permitting - TICK!
* 30 second handstand - FAIL

STG: (this week)
* Stay injury free for just 1 more week! -
* 30 second handstand - 

MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Terrence Hill in Margalef in May - 
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 57/150
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 1/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

 

 AJM 21 May 2018
In reply to Dandan:

I found myself basically standing on footholds on the 6a to go through the chert bulge at the bottom, since there seemed to be no hold by the bolt.

I got to a move or so from where the groove opens to a flake, but couldn't get the right foot to stick on anything to move up on some pretty small crimps.

One to come back to when less tired and with less knackered shoes I think. 

 hms 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Ah yes, that was the route that was very scary so I got very sweary. Sorry!!

M - cycle commute. Yoga. New instructor and it was a lot harder work - lots and lots of downwards dog and plank. Decided that that could count as the week's core session.
T - cycle commute. Late at work so just some gentle prehab type stuff in the evening.
W - cycle commute. Home via UCR. Lots of goes on the heinous pink 7a circuit which I still can't do. Got told off for neglecting my ancap.
T - cycle commute. ByG in evening for ancap session on Snaffel Attack (7b). Which I ruined by accidentally getting it first go this time, whilst carrying with me vast numbers of draws, extendors, brushes and goodness knows what other ballast as I went. Tried a 6b jamming crack as a warm-down and failed miserably (again)
F - 2 miles urban walking. Better length prehab session inc wrist stuff and shoulder stuff.
S - Coastguard. Rather spooked by the wading (thanks for the hand, Dan!) which killed psyche a bit. Had a really good go on a terrifying 7a. Back to Superfly Guy, ticked second go. Bad decisions at the end of a long day all added up and cost me the onsight. Great route!
S - Blacknor far south. 2 really good goes on The Strobolising Scyphostoma (7a+), in full sun. Did it in 2 overlapping halves. Would have gone if I had been able to stay later but had to run for home.

really nice to get out 3 times. Training is all well and good, but the best way to improve on rock is, I'm sure, to actually climb some rock.

 AlanLittle 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG: Schattenspiele, Konstein - boulder routelet project. Depends on convincing somebody to go to Konstein, not the most fashionable/popular venue.

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

________________________________________

M: Max hangs, 30 minutes shoulder mobility & stretching

T: 40 minutes shoulder mobility & stretching

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Eight routes / attempts to 6c+. I have zero endurance at the moment, so attempted to address that weakness with some overhanging pumpy jughauls.  Am reaching the conclusion that I really don't like climbing where the only challenge is lactate tolerance on  boring & obvious moves. But I'm too old to be a boulderer, so I guess I have to learn to love the pump somehow.

T: 

F: Attended a tech conference at which Adam Ondra was the non-tech inspirational guest speaker. Really good talk, I guess he gets plenty of practice these days. My autographed conference name tag now hangs below my beastmaker, next to the picture of Kurt Albert on the FA of Sautanz.

S: 

S: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Circuits. Another dismal session, but having listened to an excellent interview with Shauna yesterday I now know that I need to figure out how to derive a positive lesson from this. I am moving ok, and can do short hardish sequences no problem, but am blowing up completely after at most 15 to 20 moves. So, a question to the energy systems experts in the room: is this as I suspect a sign of a too high ancap to aerocap ratio? 

 
 hms 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

don't feel bad about Europe Endless - I got shut down by the indecently hard move in the middle although before and after that it's really quite nice.

 Ally Smith 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Ally Smith: Whats the project at Kilnsey?

The meat of it the new climbing can be seen in background of this picture: https://www.instagram.com/p/BFdcmKdxKyO 

You climb a 25m 7b+ to get to the start of the new climbing, which is a resistance based 7B/+ on (damp) pockets. This gets you to the "bat-hang" rest on Freakshow (8c) (2min 58s here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2817) though being me, i've found a good-ish kneebar a couple of moves later on that I find better for resting. From that rest to the top is about 8a+/b and incorporates all the hard stuff on Mandela. Epic barely does it justice...

 

Week 20

 

M – Nothing – too many “nothings” recently. Really missing my fingerboard and other home training aids – looking forward to the new house and making the “fetish room” that the lady has promised me!

T – Tor after work. Rock warm to the touch Got a catch on a silly 8a link up above Weedkiller, which nearly went 3rd go. Lantern bouldering afterwards. Repeated Perverse Reverse & others. Maybe do Haydn's new thing Cave Pervert (f8A) next time? Home late.Got all the beta sorted on another little project too. 

W – Core. 40/20/6 hi-V, plank, side planks + 5kg. 200 crunchies. Middle less wibble than last week.

T – More core & conditioning. Sit-ups x50. Reverse raises x50. Side plank crunches 2x20 (hard). Twist crunches x50. Kettlebell OHP 2x20 each side. Theraband shoulders. Wrist curls 8kg up, 4kg reverse. 3x30 each side/orientation. Fatty & boozy dinner.

F – An-cap triples (found a V6-7 that was about right) x7 failed on rep 2&3 in sets 6&7. 12x 1on/1off 7a aero-cap auto-belay. Beer festival.

S – Hungover house packing after a pub breakfast buffet. Sides aching from Thursday core.

S – 2-day hangover on 2.5 pints of real ale? No, more likely that I’ve picked up some low level lurgy – felt wiped out even though I slept for 10+ hours. More house packing, cleaning and gardening.

 

Post edited at 09:13
 Brodes 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I actually did some climbing (wall) this week! My back is still far from good - but it's moving in the right direction.  I'm now sufficiently confident to put down some 2018 goals!

Monday. 9miles bike. Physio exercises apart from good mornings. Some ab work hanging from jugs on fingerboard. Leg raises, and attempts to raise body into front lever. Hurt both shoulders doing the latter. Felt like I'd upset the joints.

Tuesday. 9 miles bike. Physio exercises without good mornings. Good ab session. Sets of 30s hollow body on floor and 30s planks. 

 

Weds. 11 miles bike. 2 hours bouldering at climbing wall. Lots of problems at 5&5+, around 5 6as, a couple of 6a+, and a 6b flash. Didn’t do any problems that Took more than 3 goes. My back twinged when I put my shoes on, but 100% fine otherwise. And I made it half way up the campus board, which is a first. Both shoulders joints ache a bit after Monday’s stupid session without warmup. Am thinking about a trad trip to Pembroke at end of May. 30min physio including good mornings with a heavier weight. Still have slightly sore shoulders.

 

Thurs. 20 miles bike. Mid back muscles feel tired and a bit stiff. Right shoulder fine. Left shoulder sore in certain positions. 1h physio. 1h CrossFit (weight lifting),  then 18min intense squats press-ups sit ups rowing stationary bike.

 

Friday. 5 miles walk. Rest. 30min physio.

 

Saturday. 3 miles walk. And some ad hoc ab training (at playground with daughter). Some bent leg raises, and around 5 ankles to bar bent leg raises. I can do these under control now. Used to have to kick up to start.

 

Sunday. Sedentary until 9:00pm then 30min physio exercises. 3*12 push-ups. and BM1K workout. 5 sets of 3 reps of 8s on/ 52s rest. 3min rest between sets. All on medium 4 finger edge. None of the hangs were close to failure. Then 3 sets 3 reps of 7/53 with one hand in the small 4 finger edge, the other on the medium-hard to make the 7s. Then tried a few hangs with both hands on small 4 finger edge. I made it to 7s in a couple of hangs. The rest failed around 5-6s. Shoulders are fine now.

 

Monday - problem back muscle feeling a bit tender.

 

Goals:

Short, medium and longterm: Fix my back and pre-empt other injury with body conditioning so that I can get back into climbing, and stay active (climbing/surfing/snowsports/maybe alpine climbing) until I'm ancient.

 

2018 goals:

Scrambling: do my first scramble, perhaps even with my wife.

Trad: get solid leading E1.  Lead 20 E1s before the end 2018.

-do another multipitch mountain route.  Something adventurous.

Sport: No real goals here.  Maybe flash a 6C in the UK.

Bouldering: Go on a proper outdoor bouldering trip.

Surfing: pop up reliably, and be able to manoeuvre the board.

 

Gym:

-get to the top of the campus board.

-front lever

-muscle up

-walk on hands

 

Post edited at 09:24
 Tom Green 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hi all. Thanks for the write up as usual Guy. 

This week was a bit mixed. The knee is still grumbling if I do any running that isn't flat gradient and non-technical terrain. Also, I need to get the discipline back on track, having allowed life to get in the way of training routine a bit over the last few weeks.

Last Week:

100mins down on aerobic target, partly due to knee, partly due to bad planning. Other week targets ticked, with an extra climbing session for good measure.

M: Rest

T: Climbing at Stanage Plantation. Felt a bit underpsyched (it was roasting hot!) so just did mileage on easyish stuff. About 140m of VS, plus seconded a couple of HVS that were my antistyle.

W: Shoulder rehab.

T: Rest.

F: Core and Max strength session (no leg stuff -avoiding aggravating the knee)

S: Bouldering in Ogwen (some really beautiful problems, including 2x6B) followed by run up Carnedd Llewelyn (was going to keep going over Carneddau but knee starting to hurt on final ascent) 2h22 of Z1/2, 17.8km with 563m vert gain.

S: Core and Max strength session (again no leg strength) followed by easy 5km run, 6:05/km avg, knee felt fine.

Next Week:

Should be moving to muscle endurance, but going to put a few more weeks of max strength in.

2 Core sessions.

2 Max strength sessions.

1 Climbing session.

280mins aerobic volume.

STG/Q2:

Sandstone trail in <10h (TICK!)

E1 on 3+ rock types (1/3)

Boulder 6B in Lofoten.

MTG/Q3:

El Cap Nose Day

New Routes in Kyrgyzstan.

LTG/Q4:

Jaz (D8)

North Face Original Route (ED1)

BHAG:

Le Coeur (f7A)

The Swine (E3 6a)

Centurion (Winter) (VIII 8)

The Colton-Brooks (ED2 5)

West Ridge (ED1 6b)

 

 the sheep 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers, quick reply as I’m using my phone

Monday 1km swim

Tuesday 1km swim

Wednesday 1km swim 35km ride

Thursday 2 km swim stretch class and 5km run

Friday 1km swim 25km ride

Saturday 10km run

Sunday, drive from Leicester to N Yorks

 Bones [:B 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Base phase - week 5 actual:
Aerobic activity - close to 0 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stairmaster and mainly fasted) time - 0 mins
Climbing sessions - 1 plus 3 days at the weekend
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Max strength sessions - 0
Stretching - minimal

PLAN:
Base phase - week 6 plan:
Aerobic activity - 180 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stairmaster) time - 120 mins
Climbing sessions - 1
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Max strength sessions - 1
Stretching - 4

Monday: rest

Tuesday: Good lead session at the Castle - felt tired quite quickly. Not sure if recovered from the weekend or coming down with something.

Wednesday: rest

Thursday: rest

Friday - Sunday: Portland climbing. Worked a few routes. Everything felt hard this weekend. Learned a lot from it so will take this new knowledge to Portland next weekend.

STG:

To enjoy lead climbing, take the pressure off and have fun - 50%
Fall practice each rope session - none
To plan my week every Sunday - yes
To keep a record of benchmarks and gym work - n/a

In reply to Si dH & AJM:

Carrock Fell is good - plenty of variety and all relatively roadside. That gabbro is very abrasive though, so pack your skincare and maybe hit your bowderstone projects first 

 Solsbury 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917: Cheers Guy, hope I did not sound down on Hazel, I thought it was a great video, both inspiring and helpful. I think it is easy to loose sight of how hard it can be to improve and stick at it and this video helped me to acknowledge a bunch of stuff. Looked up her physio and may try and hook up with them later in the year if I go to Siurana, which is a bit of a priority for me.

Anyway I still have the lurgy-runny nose but improved energy.

M-Long day at work

T-Warmed up then nine circuits-almost getting the 6b/+ one

W-Shoulder weights but no finger board. Some very good news re a course I want to do which will give me a new profession, phew.

Th-Circuits again, slower warm up, done most if not all of the 5-6A problems. Then sniffed my way round 10 circuits including 6b/+ three times. Chuffed.

Fr-Long day and good bye drinks, felt knackered.

Sa-Trip to Sally in the Woods, did high and low version of  traverse that is supposedly 6c+ as well as a straight problem I have only really done a couple of times. Boulder is quite pockety which felt a bit close to some limit. Love the straight up problem, it is only really six hand moves, but none easy and gets surprisingly high quite quick.

Su-Emergency trip to aged parent-frustrating.

They will not be a report from me as am off to a Scottish Island with no electric and no signal. Our hut is seven miles from ferry so not sure the mat will make it there but may manage to get a few sessions in on Mull either side of stay on Gometra.

 

Rich

 

 Dandan 21 May 2018
In reply to Solsbury:

That Pablo Scorza guy looks really switched on, I like everything I've seen that has involved him.

 Bones [:B 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Great to meet some of you at the weekend. Sorry it was so brief. Hopefully more climbing next time

Jamming Dodger 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

The roof is great. Goes up and down in no time with very little effort or faff and gives loads of head room in the van. The bed is also enormous and very comfy with a sprung mattress built in. It has the high hinges at the back so doesn’t feel at all cramped. I stayed in it for the first time last night in the Lakes and although it was just me up there, there is plenty of room for two adults. So although it cost a bomb it’s going to get loads of use. Just need to get a kitchen and leisure battery set up in there now and have ordered some curtains and then it’s more or less done. 

Nothing exercisey to report this week again apart from some decent walks out with the dog. Only week and a half in my current job left now so I’m knuckling down to get as much done as possible. I guess it will stay that way until I leave, so will start afresh at the start of June. 

Will prob miss next weeks posting, unless I get the time to do something worth mentioning.

Hope everyone is enjoying this superb weather. 

 

 Ardo 21 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

 

STGs, (May-July)

• Sort training plan and diet

• Buy flat

• Set MT, LT and BHAGs

• weight target 10st 7lb/bf 15% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18)

• e1 trad leads

• lead 7a outdoor

 

Mo: General walking, 5.6 miles. Rest day.

Tu: General walking, 6.3 miles. 15 problems, campus board, (feet on, 1min on/off * 6), hangboard, (6 on/4 off * 6 sets)

We: Commuting walking 8.2 miles. Rest day.

Th: General walking, 6.8 miles. 6 problems, 4 lead.

Fr:  General walking, 7.0 miles. Rest day.

Sa: General walking, 7.4 miles. 1 sport route, (redpointed 6c)

Su: General walking, 6.7 miles. 1 trad route,(headpointed E1).

- weight 10st 8lb/bf 16.3%

 

Good training, 6c redpoint, (hard), E1 headpoint and a couple of sunshine beers to cap a successful week.

Post edited at 22:38
 Solsbury 21 May 2018
In reply to Dandan: I agree, first time I have come across him, would love to find a physio like him locally, does he practice in a particular style? Reminded me of a Tui Na/Shiatsu guy I knew years ago from Brazil, he had also trained in capoeira and dragged me all over the shop, great stuff.

R

 

 Powderpuff 22 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Ha Ha sounds like a complicated relationship! No worries there for me the missus doesn't climb.
Healthy eating is still going OK, but biscuits and chocolate are still my downfall, in particular just before climbing sessions, just  gives me that pick me up I need.

Monday: hard session on 45. climbed v4, v5 and worked on a couple of harder problems. Made decent progress on harder problems and felt slightly stronger. 2 sets of the usual exercises. Magic stretch.

Thursday : climbed 2 of the v3-5 circuit I'd climbed  before to warm up. Climbed a tricky problems from same circuit and worked on a couple more tricky problems, felt tired.2 sets of the usual exrcises.  Magic stretch.

Saturday: finger board session at home. 6 max hangs on the slopers, held back a touch as I could feel my elbows.

Your right Guy overhangs felt much easier on the elbows, thanks.

Stress high at work need to compensate for this, sleep could also be better. Also I've developed a tweak in my back which I need to watch.

 Ardo 22 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Noticing quite a few hangovers and "colds" popping up in weekly reports. Think you need to tighten this ship up Guy and don't try to blame me for the descent toward moral turpitude!! :-D

 mrchewy 22 May 2018
In reply to Solsbury:

He's from Brazil... I've met him, nice guy, and nearly everyone recommends him but I know a couple of people who feel he wasted their recovery time.

 mattrm 23 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Don’t know much about it, been there once but barely remember it, but Carrock Fell?


I can remember Carrock Fell well, I've been there once I think.  It was really nice and it's the nearest bouldering to Keswick.  Only issue is that it can be a bit boggy in places.  But if you've got a bouldering mat, you'll be fine.  I remember the rock being lovely and grabby.

 Si dH 23 May 2018
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks guys, Carrock looks good and I hadn't realised how close it was. There is even a good online guide.

Only worry is the temps, it looks like somewhere I'd get on better at 15C than 20-25C. I'll probably try a session both there and at the bowderstone. 

 planetmarshall 23 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Any fitclubbers doing anything interesting over the Bank Holiday? I'll most likely be in the Peak again if anyone is about and fancies something a bit more esoteric (Thinking about  Willersley Castle Rocks for Sunday)

 Solsbury 23 May 2018
In reply to mrchewy: He did come over well and would be interested to find out more. But puzzled how a physio can waste people's time once they have full motion back, I really think it is my responsibility to pick and choose what advice I follow, one of the joys is working out what works. 

 

 mrchewy 23 May 2018
In reply to Solsbury:

Not even reaching full motion has been an issue for one friend - then going elsewhere and a different route to recovery explored that culminated in getting back full fitness.

Don't get me wrong, one friend spent years and a fortune trying to sort his back problems and once he hooked up with Pablo, he's been fine ever since as long as he sticks to his exercises and avoids hard catches.

 

There's no one that loves physios more than me!

OP guy127917 23 May 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

We will be daan south for this weekend (last Portland trip for a while)

 Tyler 23 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I'm heading up north to the Cobbler and Punster's Crack, seems a shame to be leaving Kilnsey behind but with a dry spell like this it's got to be done. 

 planetmarshall 24 May 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Hmm... Scotland does seem the place to be looking at the weather. 

 AJM 25 May 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

There's a chance we might be in the peak given the weather looks better than the south coast .

 planetmarshall 25 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

After briefly toying with the idea of heading North I'll be staying local to the Peak. Will be free Sat and Mon if anyone wants to get in touch - planning to try something from the new Peak Limestone South guide.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Aiming for something big like Beeston or Dovedale on Sunday but we will be aiming to stay within walking distance of the treehouse on the Monday - probably the Willersley end of Wild Cat.

In reply to AJM:

Give us a shout if you're around. Will be looking for a cool quiet window for Early Doors/Extended/De-extended etc on Saturday (so either evening/early session), then as above Sun/Mon.

 AJM 25 May 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

Ah, our toying with the idea of the Peak has foundered on the shoals of excessive driving (we'd have to base ourselves at the in-laws in Brum) so we are going to take our chances nearer home. 

Any FC folk down Dorset way?

 mattrm 25 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 7lbs (2 lbs loss)

M - T - Rest

W - Routes at the Rec

T - S - Rest

S - 4 mile walk carrying baby

Pretty good week I guess.  Basically the plan is to start using the Matt Fitzgerald DQS scores again.  I've been doing that this week and it's working ok so far.  That's the plan I guess.  Also I'm slowly increasing the grades down the wall and keeping the number roughly the same, about 20 to 25 routes per hour session.  I'm hoping to start doing two sessions, but we'll see.  Also once the weight is down a bit I'm going to start fingerboarding again.  Still not sure about the core stuff.  The walk at the weekend was nice and I coped fine with the baby on my back for 4 hours.  He lasted ok as well.

OP guy127917 25 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

We sacked it off this weekend because of hangovers and possibly dodgy weather, plus I’m working on the bank holiday. Hope the weather holds for you. 

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy - still just me! Not such a good climbing week last week as had to spend the weekend in Slough and London. Makes me very grateful for other weekends though!

M-T core

W-F Brookes lead little bits on non-aggravating holds 

S - family stuff 

S - routes at the reach - nice to be able to do slab terrain and use my finger less and just stand on my feet. 

 TheFasting 27 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Currently studying for my last exam tomorrow, and then I'll update and most importantly train regularly again. God, I hate university.

Anyway, since the last time:

Week 581:

- Had a sport climbing day in  Skådalen and did a bunch of n5/F5bs on bolts, and nearly onsighted and definitely redpoint PRed anyway with an n6-/F6a, so that was great. The plan is to do more sport climbing now because I climb harder grades on trad than sport now, and I think it will help with my fear of vertical trad.

- Went to a place called  Hyggen and had a bad time (but also successful in a weird way). First I failed on a bolted n5/F5b when warming up, which was disconcerting. Then we went to climb trad.

- I took my first trad fall right before passing the crux on Sammheten om Ole Brumm (n6-). Fell pretty far but a #2 cam caught me, and then I sort of lightly touches some dirt in the gully I fell into next to the route. But I was fine, just tore a callous. Didn't finish it afterward because I figured the tear wouldn't exactly make it easier.

- Then tried an n5+/F5c that I bailed from and climbed around the top crux because below it was a mossy slabs with no handholds.

- Finished with doing an n5/F5b just to get something on the books. Felt completely destroyed physically after 2 massive doses of adrenaline that day.

 

Week 582:

- Had a bouldering session where I failed on anything challenging but climbed a bunch of f5-ish problems. Sounds like a regular bouldering session to me!

 

Week 583:

- Massive trip to Nissedal!

- First warmed up on Sternschnuppe (V) (8 pitches, with another 3 on running belay, 430m), which we did in 7 hours, setting a new speed PR up Hægefjell for me after last year's 16 hour dusk till dawn mini-epic fiasco.

- Massive PR with sending Mot Sola (n6-)! An F6a multipitch (8 pitches, 380m. I think I've read some brits grade it E1 or HVS?) that really gave me some confidence going forward for my dream of the 6 Classic North Faces of the Alps. I always thought that when I climbed this route, I'd be close to ready to do some of the "easier" north faces like principally the Cassin on Piz Badile. This route has been my dream since I started climbing, and I thought it was a stretch goal for 5 years, but now I did it 1 year after my trad course. Super excited!

- Then a rest day because I was destroyed. Tried some bouldering but literally couldn't climb anything. Fingertips were all torn off.

- For the last day we climbed Gone with the weed (n6-), another F6a (6 loooong pitches, 380m or so). Bolted slabs and shallow pockets in a crack formation. More scary than enjoyable really, but we made it up in good time.

Summary: 22 pitches (not counting the ones on running belay) in 4 days. Pretty good!

 

Since then I've been at home studying and healing my skin and toes.

Question:

- What would you recommend for experiences to get under my belt before attempting the Cassin on Piz Badile? I'm going to Chamonix this year, but an attempt at the Cassin would be some other year. I got to thinking about trying it as a short trip directly before Elbrus next summer, use it as an excuse for acclimatization? Set off 5 days before flying to Russia maybe? I don't know if that's logistically doable, just an idea.

- Recent trad progress has made me think of some other routes for my Chamonix trip. Maybe the Rebuffat-Baquet on the south face of the Midi, it doesn't look too tough for me currently. Should I put it off, rather? I haven't been to Chamonix before so this trip is more to get a feel for the area, but the Rebuffat-Baquet looks easily accessible and good for a day with some actual hard climbing.

Post edited at 16:47
 Si dH 27 May 2018
In reply to TheFasting:.

> Question:

> - What would you recommend for experiences to get under my belt before attempting the Cassin on Piz Badile? I'm going to Chamonix this year, but an attempt at the Cassin would be some other year. I got to thinking about trying it as a short trip directly before Elbrus next summer, use it as an excuse for acclimatization? Set off 5 days before flying to Russia maybe? I don't know if that's logistically doable, just an idea.

I do know two guys who did this as their first proper alpine route, but they both had 5+ years experience of regular trad routes up to E3/4. They still had a big epic with a summit bivvy and difficult descent down the North ridge in a storm.

At a more modest rock climbing level I would just recommend you build up via a bunch of big AD then D mixed and rock routesin the alps, and see how you get on.

Big alpine routes are often tricky with weather and the Piz Baile is notorious for thunder storms, so going to try it in a short 5 day trip would be high risk. 

 TheFasting 27 May 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Aha, good thing I asked then! I thought based on what I've read that the descent was relatively uncomplicated. Back to the drawing board then!

AD and D grade routes is what I'll do this summer trip to the Alps and at home, so I'll have lots of time on that. But 20+ pitches is hard to find here for most things.

 AJM 27 May 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

You could go off the far side and walkwback round in the past, which is not very difficult but quite long, although I don't know if that's still the case given the rockfalls on that side. My understanding from friends who've done it is that the north ridge descent is likely to be crowded, it's long, and since it's quite low angled it can be faffy (rope tangles etc).

I have a vague half memory that if you know where to find it one of the more bolted routes to the right of the Cassin (one day in paradise or something?) can be used in descent, but given my uncertainty I'd take that with a very large pinch of salt and do your own research before placing any reliance on that!

 Tom Green 27 May 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

Have you checked out the South ridge (Sudgrat) of the Salbitschijen?

It’s pretty long, has a couple of 6a pitches but is mostly f5 and has a relatively easy descent. 

It’s also top quality and has the option of an extra summit pitch for a classy photo for your wall!

Might be a good stepping stone towards the Cassin. 

 TheFasting 27 May 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the tip, I haven't read that much about it actually. Sounds like another good option.


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