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/ UKC FitClub 585

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guy127917 - on 03 Jun 2018

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

 

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_584-686052

 

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

 

Si dH: I’ve not been to the Churnet but Owls sound like a good reason to! Let me know if you’re out in the peak in the evening this week.

AJM: Well let’s see your written down training plan for Smith then…  

Cyan: Park run in last weekends London mug… good effort! 

mrchewy: “Autobelay with one ice climbing boot on”- this is a funny image.. do you end up climbing in circles?

Tyler: Love Rob Greenwoods comment on Club Crack… think you did the right thing! “Felt pretty wild in 2017, but must have been a damn sight wilder when it was first done in 1957!! Definitely at the more esoteric end of the spectrum, with more than it's fair share of moss + lichen”

AlanLittle: I’m interested to see how you get on with the 4-3-2-1 thing- I think the ‘focus on’ approach you mention sounds sensible. Erics book was the first climbing conditioning thing I really read but I could never quite imagine it working effectively.

Powderpuff: I always reckon getting your life well organised at work helps your training as well. It’s all takes motivational energy that comes from the same place.

Tom Green: Nice one progressing the E1 STG- did you get your longer Z1 in this week? I’m at a loose end in the lakes next weekend if want to do a trail run or enchainment day or something.

hms: Sounds like you’re mixing it up with the indoor sessions. Are you following a plan at the moment or playing it by ear?

biscuit: Good to hear getting back to rock went well. I’m sure the bike psyche will shoot up as soon as you see some mountain passes as you land in the Alps!

the sheep: Sorry to hear about your ma, hope she continued to make progress.

Dandan82: Hopefully you won’t have any time to post this week until you return! How has the weather held up?

Ally Smith: Congrats on the house move and to getting the training cave setup! 

MauraLorrissey: Did you get back on the pull ups this week?

Jamming Dodger: As a fellow temporary unemployee, I can sympathise with the training disruption, but it’s all progress eh. Good luck on our first few days!

Ardo: Great stuff- the kind of summary we like to hear! I am absolutely not set at all for my trips but I’m sure it will all work itself out.

Brodes: Nice job getting back on the trad and getting your E1 tick count started! Since you’ve opened fairly strong I guess managing that back injury is going to be the key to success.

Rebecca Ting: Have you ever tried a rice bucket for rehabbing a finger injury? I’ve seen a few references to it recently but never tried it.

mattrm: Good to hear DQS is starting to work- whats a typical day score for you at the moment?

Richard Popp: Hope you enjoyed being nice and remote?

Bones: Sorry for taking you out drinking again! Last time ever. 

Guy127917: Make sure you post even if you feel bad about your training.

 

AWOL: TheFasting, planetmarshall, cyan, climbthatpitch, Andy Nelson

Tyler - on 03 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I know we don't do a link to videos anymore but I thought this worth posting as it was only put up today and because this is what it's all about. For those that don't know Ted, he has been trying Just Do It (5.14c) about three years, going out in his holidays once or twice a year, getting closer each trip (after a couple of trips there to do To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a). This time he went out for six weeks and sealed the deal just before home time. Truly inspiring (especially after an ankle break earlier this year) for any FCers thinking of a bit of a siege, if you are after his training secret he posts a lot on his blog (http://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/?m=1) but having climbed with him a bit I'd say it was specifity, consistecy and trying hard all the time .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM

Cyan - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

A lot of climbing this week but I can't pretend to be training in any way whatsoever at the moment.

Mon: Interesting day sport climbing at a slight soggy Wintour's Leap. Fell off a lot. Very weird bad moment on the crux of A Blast from the Past when the quickdraw below me somehow clipped in to the buckle of my leg loop. Luckily the next bolt was very close and I managed to not freak out for long enough to fight it in and get it clipped. 

Tues: Wall?

Wedns: Can't remember.

Thurs: Rest, I think. Sorry, bit vague about the middle of the week.

Fri: Wall. Bad at dynos.

Sat: Parkrun. Wall. A couple of tough V4s. 

Sun: Short run. Long, lazy and extremely sweaty wall session. Quite a lot of white problems (V4-6) in the end. Followed by All Points East for Patti Smith and Nick Cave - outstanding. Kylie turned up to duet on Where the Wild Roses Grow! :-0

MauraLorrissey - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I didn't get back into my pull ups. Will be doing it this week. 

I had a big week personally, will be starting a new job and might be buying a flat... and my sister left for the UK ... emotionally it was a big week for me. And I wanted to focus on getting more KM's under my belt before the ride in 2 weeks. 
STG/Weekly:

*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) -  will do it this week... 

*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - only 1 session outdoors

*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - tick 30.2km + 20.2km + 63.9km = 114.3km!

MTG:

*100km cycle - Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered ... 2 weeks to go!! 

*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by July

*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by July

LTG:

* lead The Most Monstrous Monster (21)  https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/glasshouse-mountains/tibrogargan/route/13442215

*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) - https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/bells-line-of-road-pierces-pass/route/15444799

*climb a big wall before I'm 40

Monday: 

AM: warm up rotational lunges/ KB squats, single arm rows (12.5kg), back raises / front squats (40kg barbell), jump lunges/ sumo squats 35kg / various core exercises 

Tuesday:

AM:Cycle - River loop 30.2km, 318 elevation gain, 24.4km/hr average speed

Wednesday:

AM: forgot to write down, upper body strength. remember doing static push press with 20kg bar. 

Thursday:

Rest / drop sister to airport as she moved to the UK .. Thanks for taking her in Jen and Guy 

Friday:

Cycle - 20.2km, elevation gain 246m, average speed 23.7km/hr

Saturday:

Beerwah - such a great fun day with some newbies chicks leading. Lead 11, 13, 14, 14, 15 & 16. Took a fall on the 16. 

Sunday:

Cycle to Coomera  - 63.9km, 606 elevation gain, average speed 22km/hr

AlanLittle - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG: Schattenspiele, Konstein - boulder routelet project. Depends on convincing somebody to go to Konstein, not the most fashionable/popular venue. 
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

___________________________________


M: 45 minutes shoulder mobility, stretching, wrist extensors
T: Bike one hour
W: Max hangs for strength maintenance
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Putting the Fit Club Arc Playlist to good use on aerocap circuits
F: Bike one hour
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Aerobic mileage on circuits.
S: Wall, Freimann. More aerobic mileage - a dozen routes mostly around 6b. Thoroughly enjoyable climbing with a couple of new partners from one of the facebook groups I joined last week. Session stamina seems to be improving -  this was iirc the most 6b's I've ever topped in a day, despite having also trained yesterday. And including second go victory on the very cool comp style sloper/volume thing I fell off last week. So wins all round really.

___________________________________________

Based on AJM's feedback from last week, am thinking of modifying the 4-3-2-1 plan to 3-3-3-1, so sacrificing a week of aerobic base mileage to gain an extra week of power endurance. Will continue to include some aerocap sessions in the other phases.
 

Si dH - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Will do Guy! Are you up this way or something?

I should clarify that I couldn't see the owls...only hear them. I did see a woodpecker the week before though, which was cool.

Goals updated a bit:

VSTG (June):

The Mentalist

STG (July-August):

3x7B/+s in North Wales

Ancap training in the week (x2 sessions) 

MTGs (September-November):

Caviar 

Powerband (stretch goal...) 

LTGs:

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

Powerband if not in 2018. 

M:  morning trip to check out Carrock Fell. Nice crag but not one for summer! It was roasting but I managed to fight my way up Slopey Arete (f7A), which I was pretty pleased with. 

T: rest

W: evening return to Bowderstone. Drizzling and very midgey but the rock felt much grippier in lower temps than the previous Saturday. I managed to do Picnic Sarcastic (f7A+) fairly quickly. 

T: travel south

F: wedding in Devon / feeling ropey

S: travel home / still ropey

S: still a bit ropey but on the mend. Planned a fingerboard session this evening. Warmed up too fast and felt a new tweak in my left ring finger so stopped

Currently feeling a bit demotivated by injuries, illness and having put some weight back on again.  Once I get over that, I want to put everything in to the Mentalist until I do it now. Then I will need to get some Ancap training done to improve my chances on Caviar and Powerband, which I'll be mixing up with weekend bouldering to keep up my strength and power. 

The next few weeks are also likely to be really busy and high pressure at work, which may make it hard to focus fully on getting fit for Mentalist again. Your comment to Powderpuff this week is definitely true!

Si

mrchewy - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy - lots going on in your life it seems, hope it all works out.

 

A complete roller coaster of a week for me mentally and to top it all, the Pinnacle was flooded in the recent rains and thus the autobelay is not available.

 

At work on Monday the builder accidentally tripped me up with thick old bit of timber and I knew instantly I'd broken or re-broken something in the big toe and as I landed, I did something to the ball of the foot or the sesamoid again. I was devastated. It just seemed like everything is against me at the moment. He also reversed into my car, so he was full of apologies but it really seemed like my summer was over.

Tuesday, I hopped into work but the actual toe was strangely causing less pain than it has been since last summer. Underneath was sore however.

Wednesday I went to see the physio first thing in the morning. I explained what had happened. It turns out I'd snapped the osteophite on the big toe's second knuckle clean off when I stubbed the toe on Monday. He laughed. There's a bit of bone about 12mm long floating harmlessly around now and my toe is working fine and is pain free, Crazy. At some point it would have needed to be removed by surgery, so he said to go and buy the builder a beer! Obviously, it'll grow back but for now the toe is great, Despite the accident on Monday, he was surprised, I'd healed much quicker than he expected (I normally do) and he thinks I'll be good to properly climb in maybe a week or so. Underneath was all swollen but that was fluid and an irritated tendon, so ice and rest have sorted that now.

 

Managed a 5k walk easily enough on Saturday evening, the new taping for the sesamoid is working fine it seems and there's just a little bit of irritation and lots of itching, so all good. Itching is healing.

 

Feeling really positive about the summer now, on Monday I was ready to give up if I'm honest which is not like me at all but work has calmed down and I should be able to get to Wales and get training for a few days this month. A little behind schedule but the legs feel strong, I've been doing squats and my physio shizzle. The new inhaler for the asthma is working great, it's a huge improvement too. I'm happy.

Post edited at 07:32
AlanLittle - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Long, long ago a couple of mates of mine came up with the cunning idea of doing Merlin by the light of the full moon on News Year's Eve. A barn owl glided right past me a couple of feet away as I was hanging on an ab rope with a camera waiting for them to emerge from the groove on the first pitch (which still existed back then)

Post edited at 09:44
Ally Smith on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Week 22

M – In between house cleaning/unpacking/escaped cat locating I managed a rushed aero-power FoC session in the new garage house of pain. 8x 90s on/30s off. Failing with a few seconds to go in last 2 sets. Pretty spot on intensity Then travel to Hamburg with multiple delays.

T – Early start for 45min hotel gym blast. 25min elliptical trainer and various weights. Overheated and dehydrated – came very close to barfing – meaning I didn’t raid the breakfast buffet hard

W – Nearly nowt; 25min low intensity cycling in hotel gym before all day meetings and late travel home.

T – After work Tor. Managed to RP The Green Rooster (8a) 3rd go. Good fight on the headwall. Much condensation in the cave, so no bouldering.

F – Nowt but 5x10 leg raises.

S – Got up early and smashed another FoC session in Just completed al 8 sets of 90s on/30s off. 10min of TRX before driving to Oxford for mega family meal (25 of us; 4 generations). Much urban walking on city tour, though hms’s D2 ignored me when spotted.

S – Final unpacking, and then finishing off garage training zone. 3 fingerboard options installed as well as rings (I can only manage 4.5 dips!), weights, TRX & FoC board. That’ll do for now – I’ll build a proper board this autumn.

Dandan82 - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan82: Hopefully you won’t have any time to post this week until you return! How has the weather held up?

Thanks Guy, the weather was a bit hit and miss, but cheered up towards the end of the week. We still managed to get something done every day though, even if that meant climbing in a thunderstorm - twice.

M: Cami de la Ermita; Weather looked decidedly iffy but we went for it anyway. First route was wet but things rapidly dried up, Mrs Dandan just started up our 3rd route Jugant Get (6c) (which was excellent) when the clouds rolled in and the rain and thunder began. 
We cowered under the overhang watching the runoff drip closer and closer until it was clear things weren't getting any better, so I hauled up the rope to strip it in the rain and we made a hasty exit.

T: Cingles del Moli; This is a roadside crag just before Laboratori, we figured we could make a hasty exit if the weather turned, but despite the forecasts, it was a lovely day. After some good warm ups I had a play on Gas a Fondo (8a) with little success. I was apparently doing the first hard move correctly but clearly not trying hard enough, but the second tough part I read completely wrong. I ignored a massive jug shot-hole as it looked closer to the next line, but it turns out it's in, and it's 8b without it.
Some unlikely low hanging on *really* bad slopers to get over to the jug convinced me it couldn't be the right way. After wasting all my energy on that I fluffed the onsight of A Mig Gas (7b+) right next door and didn't have the beans for a repeat, so that's one for the to-do list.

W: Rain all morning, found out my Netflix account works abroad so we were sorted for entertainment at least. Went for an exploratory walk in the afternoon, checked out a bunch of crags that all looked decent, looked at Sàtiva Patàtica (8a) and it's 7c neighbours but they were dripping, so no chance there. Tenebres extensio looks like a good crag for a mileage day with some great looking 7's. We also walked up to Lou com Balla which I think is Margalef's only multi (2) pitch, it looked like a fun little outing. We carried on past to a new crag called MVP which looks good too, 7's up to 8a+ and apparently not a bad line among them.
Weather cleared in the late afternoon so we went to Espadelles, but the thunder and lightning soon returned, climbing Dolce Bella (7a) was kind of intimidating with a rumbling soundtrack and rain pattering on my face! A soaked pocket ruined the onsight.
Mac convinced me to put the draws into Camino a la Perdición (8a+) which looked to be a really uninspiring line from the floor, it turned out to be fantastic, some really interesting movement on pretty decent holds. I had 2 goes and got all the moves done but again, the thought of linking it all together just seemed nigh on impossible to me! I need to shift my attitude to certain grade climbs, because of my decent Lattice scores, I now assume 8a or 8a+ should feel *easy*, when in reality they are anything but. This leads to disappointment in myself when I don't cruise up them, and less enthusiasm for the route. I need to treat these grades with more respect and approach them with the right attitude, forget the Lattice scores (which just mean i'm good at Lattice tests) and just try hard.

T: We headed to Lou com Balla to do the multipitch as a warm up, it's actually only 40m with both pitches together so we did it in a single big pitch. Would have been nice to climb the freestanding block on the top too but both lines up it were wet. We went straight back to the car and over to a new crag, 7 Pecats (i've not added it to UKC yet) where we did a wandering 6b+ and a really good, long 6c+. Unfortunately Mrs D aggravated her iffy wrist on the redpoint which was a shame, she would have flashed it if not for kicking a foothold off. There are several long 7's here which will be worth coming back for.
Met up with Mac at Espadelles again where I finished off the 7a I messed up yesterday, also did Baby Sitter (7a) and watched Mac make good links on Camino a la Perdicion.

F: Last day best day? It was a lovely sunny day so we warmed up at El Toboggan before the sun came around and then headed to Finestre for the afternoon.
I started with Bimbirimboies (7b) which I got second go, the routes around this area are much more similar to what i'm used to outdoors, slightly overhanging rather than super steep power-fests. Then I flashed Antológica (7c) which I have to admit is on the soft side. Couldhave been hard to onsight but with some rough beta it went nicely. I finished off with Calma Tensa (7a) which felt nails to me! Different sort of climbing with a hold-less slab at the top which isn't my favourite!
This was a much preferrable day, I wish I had tried routes of this sort of difficulty all week, I got much more satisfaction from it than flailing on harder stuff.

S: Travel home

S: Mow the lawn, nearly set workshop on fire etc.

So my take-homes from this trip are pretty simple, for any given trip I need to choose to either project a particular route, or stick to onsighting/quick redpoints, I can't have both.
I need to stop assuming my ability based on test results and just climb to find my limits on each holiday.
Based on the dynamic between me and Mrs D, we don't tend to re-visit the same crag repeatedly so onsighting is a better option really. It's not as if I don't need the experience at this level so perhaps I should stick with that as a plan for the next trip and forget about the big ticks for now. Not having a hard local project is a pain too, the big ticks will have to wait until they become quick ticks!

hms - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. No formal plan until Smith Rock is a bit closer but have been nagged to concentrate on ancap/strength.

M - Ban y Gor was soaking so bailed to TCA. Another hard session on the purples. A few had been tweaked so one which was impossible on Friday was now doable.

T - cycle commute, cycle home via UCR. This was 3rd day on so the ancap session was a bit lacking and ended up being changed into aerocap instead. min on, min off x10 on the excellent 6b circuit.

W - travel to Peterborough for work. Core session in hotel in evening.

T - travel home. Knackered.

F - Back to TCA, which was distinctly hot and muggy. Got several more purples but now only 2 more that seem remotely possible. So after 3 hard sessions I have managed to tick about half of them. As a reminder, they are supposed to be V2-V4 so I should be able to tick the lot with the exception of weird/novelty ones. Sandbags.

S - visiting D2, remarkably little exercise and a nice lunch.

S - The Gap with D1. After looking at a video, tried the crossover crux on Pleasant Valley Sunday a different way. I can just about get it to work but it is tenuous in the extreme. Struggled to work the next sequence as it is so much to the side of the bolt line. Pure TR no help as it also overhangs quite a bit. The way video-guy does this section is not helpful as a bit undercut he uses met it's end a couple of years ago! Sorted the final move plus found a weird leg over a lump, toe-hook in cave hands off 'rest' (until the leg goes numb of the toe pain gets too extreme).  

Post edited at 11:02
the sheep - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: Sorry to hear about your ma, hope she continued to make progress.

Thank you, gradual progress being made so fingers crossed for her. Anther strange week gone by. Up in Yorkshire at the start of the week helping mum get settled in, then off work as its half term and the wife and eldest were hit by a police car on the way home from swim training on Thursday which has written off our car. Wife and daughter both have whiplash but are recovering in the time frame outlined by the doctors.

Exercise wise manged to fit 4 runs in through the week, 2 x 5km, 6.5km and 9km.

Back at work today so hopefully a bit of normality and trying to find a new car!

 

 

Tyler - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to Dandan82:

> even if that meant climbing in a thunderstorm

I guess it discourages the use of a stick clip! You should be chuffed with Antalogica, and it sounds as though you had an epiphany on the trip which could be pretty useful.

guy127917 - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: Sacked off a run for some reason

Tuesday: Good bouldering session at Mile End, did a couple of full circuits at the monkey house (6B I think)

Wednesday: 1:05 running at a decent pace

Thursday: Got very drunk for my second leaving do

Friday: 45 minutes running

Saturday: 45 minutes running, lots of walking showing Lauras sister around London.

Sunday: 45 minutes running, yoga class, lots of walking

 

Basically just kept it ticking over this week- definitely feeling more motivated because I felt like going out for runs whenever I had the chance rather than dragging myself out! Find it really hard to motivate myself when there is a big change around the corner!

OK so now I have no job. I guess I'm a 'dirtbag' now. Jen and I are leaving for the peak/lakes/wales this afternoon and have about 3 weeks to play with. I'm hoping to do a good combination of climbing and trail running, but don't have any strict plans really. Fingers crossed for predictable weather patterns! Happy to meet up if anyone is around and fancies it, drop me or Jen a message.

I also have a new blog for updates during the summer: https://aguyclimbing.wordpress.com/

Tyler - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for doing the thread and congratulations on break free from the shackles of work! How long for, is it both of you? If you find yourself up north you know where I am (Kilnsey or Malham, obvs!)

M: Felt pretty wiped out from walking in Scotland over the weekend (Saturday in particular) but we came returned home so I could go to Kilnsey so that is what I did. Felt pretty feeble but battered myself some more but with no significant new links.

T: BUK for the first time in ages as I have committed to do more training and less buffering about on the route. Only had an hour and managed to flash some V5s and do a V6 (my first at the new BUK so a PB),  went upstairs and did 1-3-5 leading with both arms (first time so a new PB) then hung the 10mm beastmaker crimps ok so tried the 8mm and for the first time managed to hang for a humanly perceptible length of time (up to 2 or 3 secs, new PB). It seems like training for climbing is not as useful to me as climbing for training purposes!

W: Rest

T: Kilnsey, not rested enough, no new links

F: Rest

S: Kilnsey - First time with new knee pad so tried going from ground, best go was ground to bowling ball, the go before I felt fresher but was thwarted by my mates rope through one of the draws (he was doing Ally's link up from Sponsored Hero). New links but not progress as I've not really tried for ground before. Struggling with the crux move this week but I think that is accumulated fatigue. 

S: BUK, about 7 sets without timed (i.e. long) rests. Aiming for 1.5 mins per set but most sets ended sooner, knackered skin unfortunately.

Weight went up after the weekend, it always does this after a big physical effort but now returned to under 10.5 stone. This week I'll go to Kilnsey on Wednesday and Saturday so will have two days rest before each visit, hopefully this will be enough to recover my general fatigue and give a proper indication of where I am on the route - conditions permitting, which were awful on Saturday. 

Post edited at 13:13
AlanLittle - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> I also have a new blog for updates during the summer: https://aguyclimbing.wordpress.com/

At my first glance at the picture of Portland I took one of the quickdraws for a person & thought "Portland looks a lot more impressive than I ever suspected"

Dandan82 - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Previous Goals:

MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Terrence Hill in Margalef in May - FAIL, never got to Catedral at all
* 7c in a day on Portland - not yet
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May - FAIL, 7c flash was my closest

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 80/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 3/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

And here are some updated goals, i'm trying to get over the need to base everything around ticks in the logbook, but the grades help make the goals specific. I'd like to say 'climb a load of routes you enjoy' but it's hard to quantify, much easier to say 'climb 10 of this grade'.
 

STG: (this week)
* Try to treat this week as an actual rest week -
* 30 second handstand - 

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 80/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 3/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

guy127917 - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to Tyler:

I don’t have any work plans at the moment, will start thinking about it after I get back from kryzygstan in September. Jen is working but only two remote days a week so she has a lot of freedom to travel. We may well be in the north next week or after, I’ve never been to either kilnsey or malham but both are on the todo list!

Jamming Dodger on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Start of new job today. Eugh my brain is full. But I think I’ll get my head round the new software fairly quick. 

Back to riding to work tomorrow. Drove in with my stuff today and there’s a sketchy busy part but I can do a detour of a mile or so and skip that bit. 

Will hopefully have some miles in the legs by the weekend. At last! 

Ardo - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

You can be too organised for these trips, I hear!

Mo: General walking, 9.3 miles. Rest day.
Tu: General walking, 6.3 miles. Up/downs * 3 * 5, 3 min rest. 9 problems, 2 min rest. No campus or hangboard as feeling pretty tired after heavy weekend.
We: General walking, 7.4 miles. Rest day.
Th: General walking, 6.3 miles. Up/downs * 3 * 3, 2 min rest. 5 problems, 3 min rest. 20 min limit bouldering. Hangboard, (6s on/4s off * 6).
Fr: General walking, 7.7 miles. Rest day.

Sa: General walking, 10.1 miles. Chillin’ day.
Su: General walking, 6.9 miles. Couple of sport routes, (1 repeat and a few attempts at a 7a).

Weight: 10st 5b/bf 15.6%

Good training, diet ok, flat purchase moving along. Not the dizzy heights of previous weeks, but neither a calamitous descent into drink and fast food either!

Powderpuff on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Absolutely! Work is crazy at the moment, so I need to keep that under control if I'm to make sure climbing doesnt go down hill.

Very little to report from last week climbing wise but I did get outside for the first proper outdoor climbing session this year, visited Virtual crag near coniston on Wednesday night.

I had no expectations ,so was pleasantly surprised to find such a cracking little bouldering crag. I warmed up on the easiet problem to the far left of the crag then under the guidance of a very helpful and patient local climber started figuring out then climbing the standing start to a problem called Hyperlink, awesome problem really great moves.

Then with the crag to myself and light failing i tired a problem called Technobabble which I didn't manage to climb in the end but again this had some great moves.

The next day I started with tonsillitis which is still lingering on now.... oh well. Im looking forward to being shot of it so I can climb again to be honest.

 

AJM - on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I'll do my actual post some point, but just to say if anyone is between Brum and the Lakes on Friday and Monday or the Lakes (most likely) at the weekend then do let us know...

planetmarshall on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> AWOL: ...planetmarshall...

Not been very disciplined lately but will try to update more frequently. Not a bad week last week but a bit unstructured and taking a rest day on Monday (usually due to being knackered after the weekend) definitely has a negative impact on training for rest of the week.

Wed - Max Strength
 - Core.
 - 4 sets of 4 reps
Wide grip pullup (75kg)
Box step w/barbell (25kg)
Deadlift (87.5kg)
Ring dips (80kg)

Thu - Trail run. 9.46km/366m (https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/2742044564). Edale, Nether Booth and Kinder. Not a great route, far too much bushwhacking involved.

Fri - Hill intervals on the Roman Road near Hope. Just trying this one out, but approx 7x1:30 intervals at 1:2 work:rest.

Sat - Another attempt on Herford's Girdle Traverse (VS 4b) on  Castle Naze

Sun - Climbing on  Kinder Northern Edges. 2 hour hike in from Hayfield counts as the remainder of my Z1 for the week. Highlight was probably Legacy (HVS 5a), plenty to go back for if I can ever persuade anyone else to go up there again, and the weather holds.

STG

* Increase Z1 time by 10% to 4.5 hours
* Increase Hill intervals to 6x 2mins
* Do a water jug carry
* 2x upper body strength workouts
* 2 routes at HVS or above
 

MTG

- Chamonix in July. Was going to do the first week but with news of the Midi lift closure, might defer to the second week.

 - Peak District fell races Grindleford (21st June), Hope (27th June), Hathersage Beginning July). Achieve top 25% in at least one.

- Kalymnos in Sept (on an Adrian Berry Coaching Holiday). Might follow it up with a week in Leonidio. Start a training cycle for this in June.

 - Routes : 

The File (VS 4c)
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b)
The Hen Cloud HVSs

The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a)
The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)

- Problems

Crescent Arête (f5+)
Banana Finger (f6A)

LTG

- Ama Dablam possibly end 2018
- US/Canada trip in Winter 2018

BHAG

London Wall (E5 6a)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
The American Direct (ED1)

 

planetmarshall on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> OK so now I have no job. I guess I'm a 'dirtbag' now. Jen and I are leaving for the peak/lakes/wales this afternoon and have about 3 weeks to play with. I'm hoping to do a good combination of climbing and trail running, but don't have any strict plans really.

I'm only free evenings and weekends, but happy to show you some good trails and some of the more 'esoteric' crags (basically anything more than 30 mins from the road in the Peak is 'esoteric').

 

L Donny_70 - on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: 8 am runing for about an hour, push ups 4 reps/ 20 repetition 

Wednesday: 8 am runing for half an hour, chin-ups 4 reps/ 15 repetition

Friday: 8 am first push ups 5 reps/ 15 repetition then runing to the end of strength.

Guys i have a strong knee pain for the last month or so. Does anyone have any experience with Acuraflex cream and capsules from Nutrilago?

biscuit - on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to AJM:

I'll be up in the Lakes from Friday eve onwards. Based Keswick way I think. Be good to catch up. 

Climbthatpitch - on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hello all

Thanks for the stats guy. Looks like you have some time on your hands to get in loads of climbing

Sorry for being absent have had a busy few weeks in work. I have probably been averaging about 5 hours training each week which is not where I wanted to be but it was hard finding time with work and family commitments. I did manage to get to the roaches for the first time which was fun tho.

 

M - Run, 9km, 7:49 min per km, 287m accent. Some max strength

T - Rest

W - Run 16km, 7:45 min per km, 511 meters accent

T - Rest

F - Got to north wales at 21:30 and parked up. Drove 1 car to Snowdon and left to walk up the miners track at 23:00. Up the top for 12:45. Bivvy on the top

S - Up at 4am to start the welsh 3000 peak challenge. Completed it peak to peak in 16.5 hours.

S - Rest

 

This week I learnt that I need some solid food on times when doing a big day. I tried most of the day on trail mix but had to get some sausage rolls and chocolate at Ogwen cottage.

My legs felt strong all the way. The issue I was having was my arobic system so I am going to stop the weights for a while and spend more of my time running

Lee

Climbthatpitch - on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

If you do the first week in July might see you in Chamonix

I'M hopping the midi lift opens. Currently saying it will be open from the 7th June. If not it is going to be a long walk up from the valley

 

 

 

planetmarshall on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

> I'M hopping the midi lift opens. Currently saying it will be open from the 7th June. If not it is going to be a long walk up from the valley

The upper section of the Midi lift is closed until 7th July. There are plenty of other options, though.

https://www.chamonix.net/english/lift-systems

Climbthatpitch - on 05 Jun 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

Well I read that wrong.

Thanks for the link

 

mattrm - on 06 Jun 2018
In reply to the sheep:

Blimey.  Glad they're ok.

AJM - on 06 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Well let’s see your written down training plan for Smith then…

those commitments you make in haste and regret at leisure eh.....

First off, my week.

- Monday as covered last week - 6c onsight, 7a flash, ice cream, DWS

- Thursday a micro training session of one arm shoulder engagement (bw-5) and flies

- Sunday a sweaty session at Stronghold with Cyan. A nice wall but very hot.

Not a massive week but I did do some training at home so got back on the wagon on that front.

And then to Smith. The first thing to do is actually get time to book it. This should be easy in that my workload should lighten soon but I said that last week too. Aside from that:

- the first and most key breakdown is between base phase and peak phase. This needs to happen mid August to give a decent two months of power endurance including a bit of taper.

- Power endurance will be laps at the wall (double reps session was quite good for that in the past, plus I guess the boulder mileage type stuff and the odd proper Lattice test), a bit once it cools down and the nights draw in, and foot on campus (2-on-2-off I’ve found good for a solid pump in the past, maybe 3, plus good old Lattice-style decays) although being very careful with my elbow after April’s debacle. Outside climbing will hopefully be DWS for a decent chunk of this, although that isn’t necessarily effective training (bit faffy) but it is very fun.

- base phase needs to have a bit of strength and ancap work and a bit of base fitness work. I can do a bit of bouldering after work but with hopefully a few F.C. traddy trips in July and August and some local sport I’m hoping the balance of outdoor is more towards fitness, which in turn might lead to more in the way of strength indoors. If I go to the wall it will probably be bouldering plus some aerobic laps, I’m unlikely to do AnCap at the wall because I think my limited wall time is probably better spent doing varied moves and skill work. Home training probably some fingerboard, both generic strength on pockets and crimps and AnCap, and some more shoulder stuff - rows, one arm engagement, weighted pull-ups, some antagonist dips/etc.....

mattrm - on 06 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG - 14st

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 6lbs

M - F - Rest

S - 20 routes at the Rec

S - Rest

A good day would be above 10 points.  I normally start well, with wholemeal toast and scrambled eggs.  Then snack on fruit and have some kind of salad for lunch.  More fruit for snacking.  But things normally go to pot in the evening.  Either we're short on time so it's some form of frozen/bought meal.  Or we just pick something bad.  I have a particular weakness for burgers. 

I'm going down camping in Dorset next week.  We're about 4/5 miles from Stanage.  I debated about putting my shoes and chalk in the bag, but I can't see any bouldering happening so haven't bothered.  I should probably try harder, but there we go.  However my wife is keen to go again, so maybe I'll meet up with some of you who climb there a lot soon.

AJM - on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to mattrm:

> I'm going down camping in Dorset next week.  We're about 4/5 miles from Stanage

erm....... (you meant Swanage, I know

Always happy to meet up. We are away this weekend (until Tuesday) and next, but around in the weeks aside from that.

 

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Have just given it a go, but having more effect with more focused firm massaging pressure (ie fingers). It’s a cool sensation though and probably good for grip strength so worth doing all the same!

M- solo recced some stuff at Rowtor. Blood Falls looks good but one to come back to when left middle finger rehabbed (and with spotter) and started cleaning Titchy

Digits which is very green! Think it will suit me but positioned just over the main tourist path and a few bushes so again, best with a spot. 

T - coaching and conditioning

W - indoor boulder to v6

T - rest

F - boulder climbing unit play

S - routes Kong Climbing to 7b

S - supported Ben in 3.8k ullswater swim then quick midgy vegetated humid route at Castle Rock of Triermain on way out. Definitely needs some traffic!

 

 

Post edited at 08:19
Bones [:B - on 10 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I went climbing. Don’t want to be awol. I have training plans for when I get back from three weeks of climbing about.


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