/ UKC FitClub 586

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guy127917 - on 10 Jun 2018

Evening all, hope you had productive weeks. We are nearly half way through the year... perhaps a good time to check in on those long term goals and have a good think about whether they are still driving your training.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: 


The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:


Last week’s thread can be found here:


You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500):


Tyler: Thanks for the video- really inspiring! Also nice one getting some training in and planning your recovery with good quality sessions in mind.

Cyan: No need to feel guilty about enjoying climbing rather than training at the moment! 

MauraLorrissey: Nice work on your Coomera ride, you must be feeling good about the Bay ride? I hope your new place has somewhere for the fingerboard?

AlanLittle: Great to hear you found some new people to climb with and are enjoying it!

Si dH: Apologies I couldn’t make it out in the end- how did your session go? Was the ring finger tweak turn into a full blown injury or just a warning?

mrchewy: Maybe we can append all your posts together into a novel- so many twists and turns Good to hear you ended last week on an up, and always impressed at your attitude reflecting on things!

Ally Smith: Nice work getting the Green Rooster tick! It must feel good to have a garage setup back up and running?

Dandan82: Thanks for the nice writeup. It’s interesting with the mental approach isn’t it- you want to feel confident to try the limit grades and give them everything but not think of them as easy. Given what you said last week and your new goals- which trips are you planning to work on your 3 8a routes?

hms: Those circuit grades with a wide grade range can be a bit of an excuse, but it’s annoying when they are so far off!

the sheep: Well done for getting a few exercise sessions in what sounds like a bit of a chaotic week. Hope you wife and daughter are feeling better and you find a car you are happy with!

guy127917: Enjoy the freedom.

Jamming Dodger: How was the new commute?

Ardo: Sounds sensible to skip campus/fingerboard if you are feeling fatigued. 

Powderpuff: Tonsillitus is the worst, you have my sympathy! Better this week?

planetmarshall: Yeah I found I need to hit the ground running on a Monday otherwise I remember that coming home and not training feels nice! Solid 4 day training block though, good to get rest as well. 

Donny_70: welcome along! is there anything you are working towards, goals, events etc?

Climbthatpitch: Welcome back! Sounds like a fun challenge- and good that you took something away from it that can influence the way you train.

AJM: Thanks for the beta and taking the lead on Pink Panther today, good to climb with you and Ally! Thanks for breaking down your training thoughts for Smith- it’s good to hear the theory applied to practical options that you might actually do.

mattrm: I also find it really hard to eat well in the evening unless I do some form of exercise, but I think it’s all just ingrained habits isn’t it. A thick vegetable soup became my goto ‘easy and nutritious’ option.

Rebecca Ting: We channeled your spirit on Easter Island/Edge during the week, such a nice place. Just wanted to jump in the river though!

Bones: I give you a C- (pass but could do better)

Jamming Dodger on 10 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks guy.

Drove to new job Monday just to take “stuff” in. 

Tuesday: cycled to work for first time.  26 miles. Gymastics in the eve.

Wednesday: Rode to Work again: all good. Then on way home about two miles from home got swiped by a 4x4. Nothing serious body wise, just cuts and bruises and my elbow got a hard knock again, but helmet was cracked and bike is totalled. It’s going to get paid for, but could have done without it. Could have been much worse as my head hit the ground and then the outcome would have been different. So 24 miles done. Always wear a lid, folks.

Thursday and Friday I could have ridden on my other bike but had stuff to do with the van anyway so drove... Not really a good enough excuse. 

saturday: Went to a “family fun day” that Work had organised. It sounds lame but the lure of free drinks and food meant that pretty much everyone from work was going so I tagged along. Great day followed by “party back at my house (the van)”. Great way to meet my new colleagues properly.

Next week will be riding to work every day except tomorrow, then away in the van to the Lakes perhaps. 

Loving the new job. It’s very relaxed, the work is interesting, my colleagues are all super friendly and I’m learning new stuff very fast. I made the right decision to move on.

Have a great week people. 



Post edited at 21:44
Tyler - on 10 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Also nice one getting some training in and planning your recovery with good quality sessions in mind

Unfortunately that backfired on me a bit as the FoC gave me a bit of a blister which turned into a callous so on Wednesday evening when I turned up psyched and rested I tore a massive flapper in my R index finger. I was absolutely raging. I taped up but couldn't get my taped up finger in the bowling ball. I managed a one hang ascent which I'd not done before but nor had I properly tried it as I'd always just been trying the top or bottom half individually. 

I decided not to climb on Saturday in an attempt to give my finger an extra day to heal. Woke up on Sunday, disaster! I'd put some Climb On on my hands before going to bed but obviously overdid it and woke up with hands still like an oven ready basted turkey. Washed them to reveal baby soft skin. Next calamity was to get on the scales and find my afternoon tea yesterday had cost me over two pounds. I went to put my lucky trousers on to find they were languishing soaked in the washer, I've no idea why my wife would do this to me? It's probably a divorcing issue but I was in a hurry and we're about to move to a house with a cellar where I can put a board so I decided to let it slide and she was afforded a silent reprieve. To make matters even worse I got to the crag to find people on *my* route and I was facing all this without my normal support crew. This was now officially the WORST DAY EVER!

As it turned out the people on my route were cool about it and it was great to see someone else on it, climbing with Jonny for the first time was a real pleasure, my finger sort of fitted in the bowling ball and my skin didn't explode. I didn't get up the route because I was not good enough on the day and that is always the only reason why you don't do it. All the other stuff that we let get in our heads is just nonsense but I'm pretty sure anyone projecting goes through it at one point or another.

MauraLorrissey - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

So jealous of you and Bones! ??Maybe I should have got a van instead of a flat... Very excited to be a new homeowner. Can't wait for Bones to visit and we can sit around the pool drinking beers. 

?Got back into the pulls ups this week eventually. 

I think I'm ready for my ride. I think my endurance is fine?, but its my back that gives me grief. The weather is looking good too! 

*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) -  will do it this week... 
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - only 1 session outdoors??
*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - tick 30.2km + 20.2km + 63.9km = 114.3km!
*100km cycle - Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered ... 2 weeks to go!! 
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by July
*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by July
* lead The Most Monstrous Monster (21)
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) -
*climb a big wall before I'm 40

AM: Warm up sprints / warm up squats / 6x6 back squats (Max weight 50kg) / sled, wall sits / core exercises
AM: River loop cycle: 36.4km, average speed 24.4km/hr
AM: x 3 sets - 30 sec dead hangs, 30 sec handstands / x6 sets 15kg barbell clean & press, squat, x4 push press / calf raises / 3x10 sit ups
PM: Lead session - fun social climb, nailed a purple overhang that I fell on last time.
AM: 10mins of 20kg sandbag get up/step ups / x3 sets - x10 jump touch, x15 mountain climbers, x20 ball slams (12kg), x25 wall balls (9kg), block run, plank hold / j-curls
AM: x200 step ups, block run, x100 step ups, block run, x50 step ups, block run, x25 step ups weighted, x30 higher step ups / core exercises
Cycle to Nudgee beach 60.6km, average speed 21.8km/hr
pull up program week 3/session 1 - 3x5 chin 5 sec lowers
Indoor lead session - lead a 20! woo

In reply to Tyler:

Great write up and thanks for the self-awareness hit - I have lots of WORST DAY EVERS but don’t recognise the real factors often enough  


AlanLittle - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. This week I managed to get out with one of my old climbing partners again for the first time in ages, and had another good day.

STG: Schattenspiele, Konstein - boulder routelet project. Depends on convincing somebody to go to Konstein, not the most fashionable/popular venue. 
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 


M: Bike one hour; half an hour stretching, mobility, wrist extensors
T: Bike one hour. 
    Max hangs for strength maintenance
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Not as strong a session as Sunday - expecting brilliant sessions twice in a row would be unrealistic. Yesterday's max hangs were perhaps a bit more max than intended too. But got some mileage in, which is the primary aim at the moment.
F: Had intended to go to the Frankenjura for the weekend but my partner had a family crisis & had to cancel. Did some max hangs, but not too maximal because we still planned to get out for the day on Sunday.
S: Mobility & stretching whilst watching Vail semis.
S: Sport climbing, Garmisch. Shocking pre-thunderstorm heat & humidity but still managed to get some decent climbing done, including a very nice 6c+ , iirc my first ever Second GO. Very nice. Short & butch, big moves on mostly good holds except a couple of slopers on the crux.

Dandan82 - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan82: Thanks for the nice writeup. It’s interesting with the mental approach isn’t it- you want to feel confident to try the limit grades and give them everything but not think of them as easy. Given what you said last week and your new goals- which trips are you planning to work on your 3 8a routes?

Cheers Guy, that's a very good point, i'm loathe to remove the 8a's from my goals (because grade chaser) but it doesn't entirely fit in with what I have stated about onsighting trips does it...
Let's see if I can squeeze them in:
I have history with Sardonique (8a) in Kaly which I reckon would go with another visit, so that could be one.
Similarly Daniboy (8a) might be a contender for number 2.
I tried The Cider Soak (8a) this weekend without success. I'd be keen for a rematch but not likely to be in the area again until next year so that's probably out.
If the weather turns to poop later in the year I could spend some weekend time on The Breathing Method (8a) but the Cuttings is always a last resort. 
I can't honestly see me getting on To Hungary For Love (8a) this year and besides there are lots of 7c's i'd rather get ticked on Portland.
We'll be back in Margalef before the year is out, maybe 2 weeks in December so if I picked one route I could easily afford 2 days on it, probably Sàtiva Patàtica (8a) if the weather is warm enough, otherwise something at Espadelles or Laboratori, probably not Gas a Fondo (8a) which I didn't enjoy.

I reckon there is still scope in there to keep it as a target, it might be challenging and i'm not going to drop other things to focus on it, but a challenging goal is a worthwhile goal, right?

Funny week for me, this was supposed to be a complete rest week, which I never get on well with. It seems to me I'm more likely to develop weird aches and pains from a period of inactivity than I am from exercising all the time, as if the exercise is holding all these issues at bay and then a period of rest is a chance for them to all bubble to the surface! I felt a slight twinge in the region of the tennis elbow tendon which has been dormant for a couple of years, pretty sure this is from 10 hours at a desk with no climbing to counter it (happened like that before). Luckily it was just fleeting as I did do a bit of climbing this week.
My neck and lower back have also been making noises, the neck I put down to the iffy pillows on holiday but the back is from lack of core sessions if you ask me!

So on Tuesday I did a local boulder comp, a combo of a hard set and low energy levels made it quite de-motivating, I came 5th I think with 165 but nobody got over 180 out of a possible 250, it's a shame because the last round was set perfectly.
I twinged a muscle in my shoulder which didn't help either, this is what happens when I don't climb for 4 days, never again!
I was talking to Mrs Dandan afterwards about my low energy levels and she pointed to the fact that i'd had a pretty low carb diet for the previous 24 hours, I hadn't even had anything carby before the event, such a stupid thing to overlook but it never even occurred to me!

We were in Devon over the weekend with a bunch of friends which gave us an opportunity to visit Anstey's Cove at last, what a beautiful place that is. Climbing aside, the cove itself is really pretty and much more grand than I was expecting, it even has a cafe for an ice cream!
I warmed up with uber classic Empire of the Sun (7b+) which I got second go, holds so big that the polish really is inconsequential, it's a good fun route.
Then on to The Cider Soak (8a), I had super comprehensive beta from AJM, consisting of a text document, a list of revisions to the document and a youtube video with timestamped notations! I skimmed it before I pulled on but it's never easy to fully understand beta until you have been on the route in my experience.
My first go left me distinctly unimpressed, I couldn't see what the fuss was about really, but after re-checking the beta and video, it made a lot more sense. Just goes to show how poor my route reading skills are. 
Second go was much more enjoyable, a couple of guys with turned up with even more beta which helped too, enabling me to do the route in a series of good overlapping sequences.
Third go was a sort of soft attempt at a redpoint, at 14 metres long it's pretty easy to remember all the moves quite quickly so it seemed worth a go. I dropped it trying to get into the deep drop knee for the 3rd clip, which was poor positioning rather than running out of puff, I then climbed to the rest and chose to hang on the rope again, then went to the top. 2 hangs in 14 metres sounds rubbish but had I gone again i'm confident I could have done 1 hang at the rest (or beyond) with proper footwork around the 3rd bolt.
Getting the sequences right really turned my opinion of the route around, it's really very good, certainly worth it's stars. I'd like to get back on it but it may have to wait until our annual Dorset trip next year unfortunately.

For the next 4 weeks i'm focusing on compound exercises in the gym, and any climbing I do will be dictated by some sheets that Tom has given me, basically working my weaknesses and doing lots of arete and slab climbing, volume climbing, one-hand stuff, things like that. He's given me 4 sessions of climbing per week and the sessions are such that I need to do them in a boulder gym, which just isn't going to happen, I don't have the time to attend a wall that many times. I'll definitely get 2 and try for 3, but I can't see 4 happening.

STG: (last week)
* Try to treat this week as an actual rest week - Erm, sort of?
* 30 second handstand - FAIL

STG: (this week)
* Time to get my arete skills polished! - 
* 30 second handstand - 

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 82/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 3/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

hms - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. Currently feeling absolutely knackered after a pretty full on weekend.

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Tickled penultimate hold on the 7b+ in sauna like heat. Worried as to when they might take it down as it's now one of the oldest routes at UCR.
W - cycle commute. FB thorough warmup then 10/3/5/4 x6 in 18mm at BW (which for me neatly aligns to 60%). Then lots of (p)rehab whilst watching telly: OHP, Is Ys Ts using swiss ball, bicep curls, wrist curls both ways, weighted pinches.
T - drove to parents.
F - drove on the Ally's new abode
S - Kilnsey. Warmup then day thrashing on a 7b with Cyan. We worked it all out apart from 1 move near the bottom. Very powerful bouldery start so not my forte. 
S - Chee Dale. Warmup getting slightly freaked by the weird rock then 7a. Short but very hard 7 move crux which took quite some unlocking. Previous day probably also taking its toll. Got the route though which was pleasing.

weekend felt very much a repeat of my weekend up North last year - destroyed by Kilnsey on day 1 then Peak 7a with much effort on day 2 both times!

Ally Smith on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy - garage set-up is a godsend for quick hits when i wouldn't otherwise have done any training, just like Thursday evening this week.

However, when giving the tour on friday i realised that the fingerboard mount flexes and that the BM2K is viciously difficult; little edges and 35 degree slopers unholdable. More fettling needed.

Week 23

M – After work tor; another late one.  Did “The Missing Link”, 8a, 3rd go. 2nd go I didn’t have clipping positions sorted and dropped it halfway up. RP was by head-torch.

T – Early start to be in London office by 9am – bleurgh. 2hrs at Building One. Mostly Moonboard owing to crowds. Felt weak; only got up one 7A.

W – Early morning hotel gym; 45min mix of aerobic & resistance. Late home.

T – 2hrs gardening, then 45min rings & FoC aero-power (90s on/30s x8 feeling much easier now)

F – Alpine start for airport taxi run. Nothing/rest/bbq/beer/whisky/chat.

S – Kilnsey – full day - glad the sun and midges weren't too prevalent. 6c & 7b warm-ups. RP#1 – equaled last years high point despite some fumbled beta. RP#2 – new high point going to FS jug. RP#3 – fumbled because of tin-foil tear (i.e. equaled last years highpoint). Dogged hms/Cyan’s project to retrieve draws (oops – didn’t know a hold had broken making the start hard!). 7b warm-down. Fairly pooped.

S – Cheedale. Sirplum E1 as warm-up. Entertaining chossaneering on P1. Excellent exposure on P2. Then Max wall. 7a+ OS, 7b+ 3rd RP. 7c 3rd RP. Fully pooped.

Brodes - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I missed last week's update, so here is two weeks worth. 

Essentially: I've hardly looked at the Beastmaker.  Instead I've been climbing outdoors or at the wall, and doing rather exhausting crossfit workouts twice a week.  

Back is still improving,, although far from perfect.  I think my body is stronger/fitter overall, but my finger strength is probably weaker than it was last year. 

I conclude that the only training for climbing weathered gritstone is climbing on weathered gritstone! I was humbled by a trip to Stanage at the weekend.  I found Goliath's Groove very tough indeed.  E1 jamming cracks must be nails!


Tuesday 29 May. 9 miles bike. 45min physio exercises.

Weds. 9 miles bike. rest day. Back still a bit sore from the climbing weekend in Pembroke.

Thursday 20 miles bike. 1h CrossFit weight lifting (power snatch and overhead squats) then a max set of archer pull-ups and 3 sets of 8 reps of band-assisted front lever raises. 30min sports massage.

Friday. 9 miles bike. 30min physio exercises.

Sat. 18 miles bike with rucksack. Get a lift to the peaks (Thanks Jim!) Rained off at Millstone, then Stoney Middleton (my first time at either crag - will deffo go back). Big climbing wall session in Milton Keynes. Spent around 2.5 hrs climbing. Mainly 6b routes.

Sunday. Rest day. Some stretching.

Monday 04 June . 10 miles bike. 2 miles walk. 20min physio exercises. 30min weights (25kg straight arm pull downs in prep for muscle up (around 5 sets of 10 reps), 15kg assisted 1 arm lock offs then a few 1 arm negatives, 3*6 bodyweight dips). 15min bodyweight workout with wife:  2 rounds of 12 reps squats, burpees, sit-ups, lunges, triceps dips, push-ups.

Tuesday 19 miles bike. 1hr 15min CrossFit. Power snatch (managed 35kg), overhead squats (managed 30Kg with good form). Then the WOD of 5 rounds of 12 box jumps (24inch height), and 12 overhead 16kg kettle bell lifts (6 each arm). Exhausting. Took 7 min 30s. Then 3*8 straight leg raises to 90 degrees. Then some hanging knee raises to failure. Abs getting stronger. My back protested during one of the stretches, but fine otherwise.

Weds. 10 miles bike. 1.5hr at bouldering wall. I felt a bit weak at the wall - potentially due to the killer WOD the day before. 10min High Intensity workout with wife (5 rounds of 5 press-ups, 5 burpees, 1 min running).

Thurs. 19 miles bike. 1h 15min CrossFit: more power snatch (which is getting better), then the killer WOD of 5 rounds of 10* 40kg clean and press, 200m run.  Took me 6min 51s - absolutely exhausting. 1h at physio working on lower back and hip flexibility.

Friday. 9 miles bike. Rest.

Sat. 9 miles bike with rucksac.  Day climbing at Stanage. 

Sun.  45min physio/yoga exercises. 3*30s hollow body position on floor. 3*8 pull-ups. Quick BM1K without a warmup: 3 sets of 7* 7/3 repeaters. 2 sets on jugs. One set on large 3 finger pockets.

Post edited at 11:35
the sheep - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: Well done for getting a few exercise sessions in what sounds like a bit of a chaotic week. Hope you wife and daughter are feeling better and you find a car you are happy with!

Cheers Guy, unfortunately yet more chaos. Calm start to the week, got a couple of 1km swims in. Then on Wednesday my mum got re admitted to hospital for emergency surgery, so back up to North Yorkshire (hire car), not too bad a drive as we are in Leicestershire. That all went fine and back on the ward on Thursday. Made it out for a very hilly 13km run in the evening. Back home after visiting on Friday to sort out a new car and help sort out middle daughters birthday trip for the following day. Had a 1.5km swim on Sunday in between ferrying youngest daughter to and from a party.

Wife and eldest daughter still in pain from the accident and the eldest still cant complete a full swim training session. Mum still in hospital and likely to be so for quite a while. suffice to say triathlon training has not been optimal! 


Dandan82 - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Brodes:


>  25kg straight arm pull downs in prep for muscle up (around 5 sets of 10 reps)

Tell me more... are we talking a pull down on a cable machine with arm straight in front sort of thing? Kind of mimicking the movement of a front lever?


Richard Popp - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917: Hi, thanks Guy, I am hanging on in here on Fitclub-think it is three weeks worth though this includes some time away.

21st May to the 3rd June

Left for Scotland on the Wednesday-Friday morning took the ferry from Mull to Ulva, only a hundred yards-stunning weather which stayed that way. Now had 8 mile walk to Both on the next  Island, Gometra-undulating rather than steep-I know what a 19.85kg sack weighs as that is what I need to fly abroad for a week camping in Siurana with 70m rope tent etc. My sack was considerably heavier. Food for six days, cooker, fuel etc-little dried food-think cauliflower, sausages, rice, apples and so on. A tough walk but wow what a place. Very very quiet-no electric, no mobile signal, few people. Highly recommended-you can find it on Airbnb.

So had six days there-really quite lazy-walked round, over and in circles-sea eagles, golden eagles-really close, avocets and so on. Kept up therabanding and stretching but not much else.

Walk out marginally easier but knees felt it in both directions.

One day on Mull-went to check out bouldering at Loch Buie-very beautiful but some boulders very midgy and some behind fence-not much actually done.

Journeyed back via friends in Huddersfield-TCA on the Sunday OK session but new problems hard and knees very painful after from jumping off.

Last week

M-Long day back at work

Tuesday-very tentative session at TCA on circuits

W-Stretching and weights

Thurs-Fingerboard and weights-bumped into surgeon who did my shoulder last September-he was surprised I am back climbing

F-Long day at work

Sat-Second proper day out to Cheddar. Nothing spectacular but led 6routes upto 6b with no real issue-played briefly on a 6c+ which felt doable but maybe not quite yet-need more focus and staying power-mental and physical. So good to be out in the sun and back on the rock.

Sun-Stuff at home-yoga and weights before shift at work.

So I am a happy bod-great to get out-loads of work to do but facing the right direction, it is still not quite ten months since the op, which was by no means certain to work and I am back-don't think I had done the 6b before so happy to be onsighting that right now.




Brodes - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Dandan82:

> >  25kg straight arm pull downs in prep for muscle up (around 5 sets of 10 reps)

> Tell me more... are we talking a pull down on a cable machine with arm straight in front sort of thing? Kind of mimicking the movement of a front lever?

That is exactly right, on both counts.  From what I've seen - front levers and muscle ups have a great deal in common. 



Dandan82 - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Brodes:

Interesting, I'm alright with front levers but I still really struggle to find any strength through the transition part of a muscle up. It's fine if I put a bit of momentum into it with a strong pull up, then I can get my weight forward and into the dip position, but I just can't imagine how I will ever do one static, raising those elbows past the middle point by the power of muscle alone seems impossible, it's very frustrating, might have to try some pull-downs.


Brodes - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Dandan82:

> Interesting, I'm alright with front levers but I still really struggle to find any strength through the transition part of a muscle up. It's fine if I put a bit of momentum into it with a strong pull up, then I can get my weight forward and into the dip position, but I just can't imagine how I will ever do one static, raising those elbows past the middle point by the power of muscle alone seems impossible, it's very frustrating, might have to try some pull-downs.

This chap is really pushing the bar into the ground, rather than relying on the momentum of a pull-up.

Of course - take my advice with a pinch of salt because i can't do a full front lever, nor one proper muscle-up.

Ardo - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Mo:    General walking, 7.2 miles. Rest day. Tu:    General walking, 6.5 miles. 10 problems, 3 min/problem. Campus, (1 min on/3 min rest * 6). Hangboard, (6s on/4s off, 3 min rest * 6). We:    General walking, 8.5 miles. Rest day. Th:    General walking, 7.5 miles. Couple of sport routes, (1 repeat and working a 6c+). Fr:    General walking, 8.6 miles.Rest day. Sa:    General walking, 9.6 miles. Chillin’ day. Su:    General walking, 6.9 miles. Couple of sport routes, (1 repeat and working 7a, that should go next session). Weight: 10st 5b/bf 15.6%

Bit of training, bit of climbing and balance about right. Diet still ok, flat purchase still moving along. The 7a project feels possible, whereas last week it felt a mile off.  

Been looking at the goals and reading some of the James Clear stuff from one of the recent FC threads, so a review so far:

STGs, (Jan-Mar) • weight target 10st 7lb/bf 15% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18) -> weight target hit, bf reset in May • e1 trad leads -> Went in May • lead 7a indoor -> Hit this target in timescale, (I think)

MTGs, (Apr-Jun) - weight target 10st/bf 12.5% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18) -> reset in May - e2 trad leads -> Went in May - lead 7b indoor, 7a outdoor -> not really been leading indoor, so no progress on former, working on the latter

Reset goals in May STGs, (May-July) • Sort training plan and diet -> work in progress and going ok • Buy flat -> work in progress and going ok • Set MT, LT and BHAGs -> sabbatical approved, so more focus required • weight target 10st 0lb/bf 15% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18) -> work in progress and going ok • e2 trad leads -> Went in May • lead 7a outdoor -> work in progress and going ok

Overall, pretty pleased with the year so far and have to accept that work and life sometimes encroach on climbing. Focus in the immediate future is to get flat purchase completed, keep the training going, (at least one sesh a week,) keep getting on the rock and tick the 7a, (and enjoy some relaxing sunshine beers while it's here). Decided no alpine this year, as priority is getting my own place, though this leaves more time for cragging, so it's all gravy!

Post edited at 17:16
mrchewy - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

A novel about the party years might be more interesting...

Squats, physio shizzle and stretching this week plus a weekend of zero eating and two litres of laxatives in prep for an endoscopy today.

That was enough to be going on methinks!


Work has finally become 3 or 4 days a week again and later this week I'm allowed to get my climbing shoes in and have a try on Paul's board. Steady as it goes I think, so feet on the same holds and just move the hands and hips about. I'm excited!

Cyan - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Mon: Wall. Slab bouldering, erk.

Tues: Wall. Assorted problems I'd been avoiding. Good session.

Wedns: Wall. Painfully close to excellent V6. Grumpy shoulder.

Thurs: Wall. Boulder comp. Surprised myself by coming second, let down by my inability to dyno. 

Fri: Rest/beer.

Sat: Kilnsey. First ever visit. Totally shut down by bouldery 7b. Complete sequence by the end of the day and had done all the moves - in retrospect quite pleased. Lots of amazin' looking routes

Sun: Cheedale. Broken. Super-close but didn't quite get through the crux of Max Pax 'Em In.  

This week needs to feature less climbing and more rest. 

AJM - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Thanks for the beta and taking the lead on Pink Panther today, good to climb with you and Ally! Thanks for breaking down your training thoughts for Smith- it’s good to hear the theory applied to practical options that you might actually do.

Cheers guy. Thanks for helping us get stuff done!

A fun week, although not much climbing. 

Monday - London, work, meal out in the evening

Tuesday - London, morning at work, afternoon doing a gin distillery tour and tasting

Wednesday - trying to catch up on life

Thursday - cancelled attempt to drive North due to overwork and failure of Wednesday organisation

Friday - drive to Birmingham

Saturday - drive to Kendal. A few hours at badger Rock in Kentmere which was good fun messing about. Then picnic then rain - decamp to pub

Sunday - Dow. Took the child to a high Lakeland crag and got some climbing done! Result got on Pink Panther (E2 5c). Juddery calves! Never felt that hard moves although sometimes took a while to sort them out - could definitely feel the difference in pace/stamina type from sport climbing. Gear fiddling didn't go too bad for a first trip back out. First E2 since becoming a dad? Shoulders a bit tired from climbing and from carrying him in.

Monday - visiting friends in the morning. Then  Harmer's Wood for a few hours. Some good lines up aretes and things, felt high at times without a spotter although very flat landings. Nothing in theory too hard although some of them did take a few goes to sort out. The logbooks have a lot more stuff in than Boulder Britain, looks worth coming back to. 

A non climbing weekend this weekend coming. Home tonight. Resolution is to do some training this week!


Tyler - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Cyan and hms:

Shame to have missed two FC stalwarts, first Saturday for a while I've not been there. I'm trying to work out the route you tried, Sticky Wicket is the popular sandbag which has recently shed holds but by Kilnsey standards it's not bouldery at the start so I'm going to guess Ground Effect? Unless Ally put you on Hardy Annual as its close to his project!

Post edited at 09:20
mattrm - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG - 14st

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 5lbs (1lbs loss)

M - S - Rest

We went down to Dorset (about 4 miles from Swanage amusingly) for the end of the week.  Lovely campsite.  No 'proper' exercise per se, but I managed to eat well and we did do a lot of walking around and carrying the baby places.  So 1lbs loss was good.  I'm tentatively positive for next week as well on the weight loss front.  Especially as I'm writing this on a Tuesday.  Hopefully I'll get down the climbing wall a bit as well.

Powderpuff on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

Felt absolutely shocking for 3 days and then slowly started to turn a corner.

Buy Friday I felt well enough to exercise , so I headed to the wall and climbed 5 of the   v3-5 circuit and did 5 max hangs on the beastmaker slopers. Ive decided to introduce more recruitment to keep the body guessing.

Si dH - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

Two different new finger niggles in the past fortnight: I think they are minor but just need managing slightly. Ie they hurt a bit on certain holds but are ok on eg a fingerboard if I warm up properly.

VSTG (June):

The Mentalist


STG (July-August):

3x7B/+s in North Wales

Ancap training in the week (x2 sessions) 


MTGs (September-November):


Powerband (stretch goal...) 



7B+ on my next Font trip. 

Powerband if not in 2018. 


M:  rest. Woke up with a stiff & painful lower back, I think I pulled or strained something doing kettlebell swings the night before. Gradually improved through the day.

T: went for another go on the Mentalist. Felt weak, poor session despite good conditions. Have decided the late evening sessions don't really work for me, I'm too tired after work and baby faff. Respect to Ally for his late-night epics before early trips to London!

W: rest

T: planned a fingerboard session but felt a tweak warming up too fast, so stopped straight away.

F: rest (our wedding anniversary.)

S: needed a break from the Mentalist so went for a play on Caviar instead. Managed to repeat my previous high point once, but that is not very high, and generally just remembered how hard it was. I am going to work a bit on shoulder mobility (specifically stretching the pectorals) as I think a slightly better RoM would help a lot on the start. Bought some new snazzy shoes so at least I look good on the rock; they didn't make me any better at climbing!  Wedding in evening.

S: rest and bbq with friends


Still feeling a bit demotivated. Didn't achieve much climbing this week - the Mentalist felt much harder than 2-3 weeks ago and Caviar felt harder than 2 years ago. Ate and drank quite a lot over the weekend as we had several events on. Hopefully things will improve climbing-wise...


Nb. After doing another fingerboard session and some kettlebell swings yesterday evening, I had a really stiff and painful back again since the middle of last night. It's mostly cleared up now but I'm going to give the KBs a rest until I have an opportunity to get good feedback on my technique.



Post edited at 19:51
hms - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Tyler:

he suggested Hardy Annual but we were a bit dubious when there was a lot of talk of very big moves, plus someone's clips were in most of it so it looked like lengthy working out of moves might not be possible. So we ended up on Nerve Endings, which has apparently shed a hold just to the right of an excellent ear/flake for the left hand, quite soon after the 1st clip. I then struggled getting to the big flake line as I couldn't reach the big holds, but found a devious way of doing it. We both struggled getting to the good holds around clip 4 but a team effort worked out a way. 

Tyler - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to hms:

Yeah that was going to be my next guess, well after pretty much every other 7b on the crag! 

In reply to Si dH:

Was it you in Outside on Sat? 

Si dH - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:


thebigfriendlymoose - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to hms:

Crikey, if someone recommended Nerve Ending or Hardy Annual to me, I would wonder what I had done to offend them!  Nerve Ending in particular: I have never met anyone who likes the route, it's only ever climbed by people wanting to access Ecstasy.   Hardy Annual has a pokey start but is pretty steady once established in the groove, just a bit mediocre.  In the 7a+ to 7b range, Wysiwyg, Ground Effect, Sticky Wicket, Quiet Flight, or Alternative Optional Extra are all more widely liked routes.

Ardo - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Seems it's a small FC world: I was across the river from these guys on Sunday at Two Tier, cussing a lot whilst proper sport climbers crushed!

In reply to Si dH:

I'll say hello next time! 

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I hope you did jump in afterwards! It's nice just on the Milldale side of the Ilam Rock bridge. Recced another good wild swimming spot by Over Haddon on Saturday - complete with purple water mint if anyone is keen on open water mojitos?! 

I also tried to start writing again this week. Sadly it is about the BMC (so consider this a health warning!) but I had to get some stuff off my chest. I will be so glad when the AGM is over (and hopefully with the sensible result):

M-F a bit of a blur with work but managed one wall trip and some conditioning and physio. With the heat/humidity I've been doing lots of icing this week as finger swelling randomly, particularly at night. 

S - swim Over Haddon and session on the traverse at Rheinstor. Still can't fingerboard but the shallow pockets are allowing me to do some finger training without pain which is good.

S - Wildcat far end routes. I know it is definitely no longer grit season but I want/need to get back on the trad in earnest and limestone/Lakes volcanic is pretty painful so might have to do some tactical early morning/late evening grit this month.


guy127917 - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: Quick evening session at Slaley Brook quarry- 3 sport routes at 6b. Interesting place, bit dusty but a nice surprise to find flowstone in the middle of a forest.


Tuesday: Dovedale- Campanile, John Peel, Easter Edge and, the highlight for me, Venery. Beautiful place- didn’t think too much of the routes though in the scheme of things.  


Wednesday: Millstone- hard work trying to onsight Dexterity- my fist/hand jamming technique needs work. Top roped it clean first go, want to go back and lead for the tick (with my new crack gloves). Really enjoyed the finger locks of Embankment 4 and also had fun on Eros. Decided on this day E1 is alright, and I’m basically happy at that grade.


Thursday: Curbar- Tried 2 Joe Brown HVS’s Sorrell’s Sorrow and Cioch Crack and decided I am a terrible crack climber and should just give up. Did sent both of them but they were bloody hard and took a lot of skin! Tried Soyuz in the afternoon, but didn’t get it without a hang on the traverse. It was really hot and sweaty! I reckon I could go back and get this one though.


Friday: Rest day, drove to the Lakes. 


Saturday: 3:34/22km trail run up Striding edge etc, 1424m ascent. Bloody fun, need to do more of this!


Sunday: Power walked up the Old man of Coniston before climbing at Dow Crag with AJM and Mrs AJM. Solo of C Ordinary which was lovely. Chickened out of the lead of Pink Panther, which I’m going to blame on a very minimal route description from the Wired guide! On second with AJM’s beta it felt absolutely fine. Lead Leopards Crawl which was a fine route. 


Week 1 of this trip has been great- main lessons being crack technique and how fun trail running is. No specific goals for the week ahead (it’s Wednesday already) but go out and enjoy Britain’s fine climbing.



Tom Green on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hi all. Thanks Guy. 

AWOL last week, late this week!

Both forgettable weeks. Each one with just one short run, one core and max strength sesh and one shoulder prehab sesh. 

On the road on a three week Norway road trip now, so hopefully getting training back on track. Tell you on Sun!

planetmarshall on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

A light week for the most part so just a short update - but did meet my 4:30 of Z1, but only by a super long trail run at the weekend.

Tue - Water carries up Jacob's Ladder. About 12kg in the pack, 206m

Sat - Trail run, Hope to Edale. 18km/683m. About half of the Edale Skyline route.

Sun - Got lost trying to find my climbing partners somewhere between Froggatt and Curbar. Eventully found them just as they were getting ready to leave. Led Short Slab (HVS 5a), which was basically a solo.

STG - Regain some level of consistency in training.

planetmarshall on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Sat looks a bit wet, so if any fitclubbers fancy a session at the Depot Manchester, I'm going to head there some time in the morning.

Climbthatpitch - on 16 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy


Went for my first fast run in a while this week and really enjoyed it. Only had 20 min spare and thought I would not be very fast but I took almost 1 min perkm off my old time so all this zone 1 training must be doing something.

I did Bonk hard on my long run this week I don't think I give my body enough time to recover from last weekends long day but im blaming the tusock

M - 7.05km run, 80 meters accent, 07:29 perkm

T - 7.23km run, 70 meters accent, 06:51 per km

W - 24.8km run around the central beacons. Decided to start at Pontsticall. looked at the map and seen where the path goes and took off. Missed the path and ended up with an hour of jumping over tussock. Deiced I hate tussock, 616 meters accent, 08:52 per km

T - Climbed The Angel's Eye (HVS 5b). Nice start and nice bit of exposure on the traverse on pitch 2

F - Rest

S - 50 min 12kg box steps. 4.82km run,30 meters accent, 04:33 per km

S - Core workout, 20 min 12kg box steps, 8.75km run 217 meters accent, 07:31 per km



biscuit - on 16 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I've been very disorganised of late and can't even remember when I last posted.

The last couple of weeks I've not done much. I had a great day on Pillar (was that 3 weeks ago?) I may have reported already. I've not been on the bike much but had a ride this week of about 75miles which went badly as I foolishly challenged myself to see if I could get up a big hill out of the saddle all of the way after about 30 miles. I nearly did but it killed me for the rest of the ride.

I missed a day on Dow with AJM and Guy (sorry!) but have climbed indoors a couple of times based around coaching. I got a decent session in on The Depot Summer league (easy set) and had a climb today at BUK. Hard as ever. I only tried up to V5 and got a few but got tired very quickly. Caught up with a few people who all seem to have got stronger in my absence.

Off to the Alps tomorrow for 3 and a bit weeks so posting may be patchy. Main aim is to not disgrace myself on this fella:

And to get some big multi pitch rock routes in. Can't wait.  


Post edited at 19:29
Tom Green on 16 Jun 2018
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Tussocks are the worst. Got a meniscal tear running over tussocks a few years back, so even hearing about running over them now gets me lairy!

Climbthatpitch - on 16 Jun 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

I'm glad it is not just me.


I just googled that. Sounds really painful

Bones [:B - on 17 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Starting our few weeks away climbing in the van. Reassessing goals and what training I want to do. Feeling like having too much structure just doesn't seem to work for me at the moment. Taking on too much stuff means I have just stopped and have had no real desire to start again, especially whilst trying to learn for a new career. I feel like my focus has been taken away a lot. However, being away has made me want to run and boulder a lot more so thinking when I get back I will try to do both those things. Maybe start bouldering at Mile End as my Castle membership has ended and I fancy a change. I might also head off in the van to try to get some greener/hillier outings.

Mon: Slaley Brook - chossy sport quarry - did a couple of evening climbs once we go to the Peak

Tues: Dovedale - amazing. Lead a severe and seconded two HVS and an E1 5b ( Easter Island, loved that climb)

Wed:  Seconded a few cracks at Millstone, another great crag. Really starting to love the Peak District and grit trad.

Thurs: Curbar Edge - great line of rock - went to the far end and worked our way through a tick list. Very overgrown down there! This is a great way to feel accomplished! Led S and HS, solo VD, seconded 4 HVS and tried an E1 5b plus an E2 5c which had a hard slopey traverse at the top.

Fri: rest day and drive to the Lake District

Sat/Sun - alpine club training weekend. Rope techniques and a very slow scramble up and down Eagle Crag near Patterdale.

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