/ UKC FitClub week 537

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Dandan82 - on 02 Jul 2017
Just knocking up some stats now, I'll be honest I totally forgot!
Dandan82 - on 02 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

FitClub Week 537

Good evening FitClubbers, this scorching weekend came as something of a surprise to me, but I hope you have all been out enjoying it in one way or another?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:

Last week’s thread can be found here:

Last Weeks Posters:

AJM - I want to revisit Coastguard, my logbook says I’ve been but I have no recollection, sounds great.
Annak - 100 day yoga huh? Sounds very positive indeed.
AlanLittle - I’d say the strength discrepancy on early morning hangs is lack of warmup, just being up and about all day is kind of a warmup so you might need to be extra sure that you are ready for hangs when doing them as soon as you get up…? Just a theory!
Hms - Glad the week was better than expected. 1 min on a 20mm edge sounds pretty amazing to me…
Ally Smith - Commentators curse, sorry about that! Did you survive the stag do?
Biscuit - All sorts going on! The warmup commitment is a toughie, i’ve managed to stick to at least some warmup for 18 months now, and it’s my most injury free 18 months ever, surely coincidence…
The sheep - 9 hours is good going, is there a triathlon on the horizon?
Planetmarshall - Lovely set of short term goals, how did they go?
Alx - The wrists do get a beating on those floor exercises don’t they? I did handstand pressups regularly for around 6 months and after a couple of months the wrists definitely coped better.
Ianstevens - Solid week, those times are tumbling! Bit light on the climbing though..?
Hokkyokusei - Welcome back, that sounds like an incredible adventure!
Dandan - Your to do list of 7c’s is getting longer…
Just Tintin - Well done on surviving your trad fall! Sounds hairy to a sport climber like me.
TheFasting - Doesn’t sound like a lot of laziness to me, looks like a pretty active week. The fitness test sounds interesting
Mattrm - Nothing lazy about DIY! I can knacker myself with a full day of tool-wielding!
AJM - on 02 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan.

Didn't manage to get out this week and didn't manage to go help the Dorset bolt fund either which was my backup.

Did a fingerboard session - a little down on bests but I'm always quite variable with assisted 1-arm stuff.

Got out both days this weekend bouldering with family and a friend from uni. On Force Majeure (f7B) the crux is the start - from an undercut reach a pinchy sloper on the first lip and then somehow release back into an undercut on a hanging block on the lip. Some people do it in control I have to hit and hold it as I come out. Cool move. I didn't do it but later in the session I was definitely hitting the undercut and slowing down rather than fondling it as I flew past. And today, on A Night With a Trucker (f7A+) it was pretty warm so my progress was limited.

A good week really though. One more week then holiday
Tyler - on 02 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Double week for me, easy to do though. Two weekends with no climbing for various social/family reasons.

One visit to BUK each week.

Forced myself out for run today and yesterday, whether that's the start of something or not depends on my ankle and toe (and hip) and motivation.
AlanLittle - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Top deputising Dan

STG: Base phase training for Kaly: complete a dozen aerobic capacity mileage sessions. 11/12
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Rest
Half an hour mobility, mostly focused on shoulders & upper back
T: Boulderwelt with my son. Still thundery & humid, although temperatures dipping slightly below 30 for the first time in weeks. So another fairly half-hearted session, though not as feeble as last week.
Rounded off with kettlebell rows & overhead presses.
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. 21 rounds of aerocap circuits. Hot, sweaty, crowded, sore skin - had to resort to via ferrata gloves from halfway through this time - boring. The aim at the moment isn't to have fun, it is to grow capillaries. Kaly aerocap session #9
T: Rest
F: Morning weighted Beastmaker hangs before work for strength maintenance. Shoulder stuff (kettlebell presses, theraband) between sets.

S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Repeated my diy lactate curve test from January (feet-on laddering on medium campus rungs) with the following results:

Jan: 62 46 52 41 26 24 26
Now: 70 54 56 46 32 30 30

So not earth shattering or revolutionary, but around 15% across the board seems like a pretty ok gain from one aerocap cycle, considering I haven't done any serious ancap work yet.
One long circuit/traverse (~100 moves) beforehand to warm up, and three afterwards for mileage. Kaly aerocap session #10
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. A dozen routes 5b to 6b+. Kaly aerocap session #11
hms - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

thanks Dan. I had a good week in terms of training & volume but didn't get to any rock.

M - cycle commute. Yoga. Good session - shoulders but nothing too painfully extreme.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR. Warmup flashing all the 6a/6b problems (grading rather different from TCA then!)Tried an ancap on the smallest campus rungs with feet but too easy so need to have a rethink. Finished with 1min on/1min off x10 FoC on big rungs which was bloody hard.
W - cycle commute & got soaked to the skin. FB session in evening. Long warm-up doing vanilla repeaters on different holds x10. Then strength 5/10/5/3 on crimp (with assist to maintain form), 4 finger drag (+7.5kg), 3 finger drag (+7.5kg), comedy go at back 3. Tried to finish with min on/min off aerocap but elbow started complaining so was sensible and stopped.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening on routes. flashed 2 new 7as, both of which have now been downgraded (totally fair for one, not at all fair for the other). Tried a 7b+ and could do the moves but not the clips - increasingly hot and humid the higher one climbed. 10 routes in pairs.
F - TCA. Circuit warmup then on to the blues. Ticked 3 more and made massive progress on another on the ultra-steep. Finished with 1min on/1min off x10 lattice.
S - couple of miles urban walking. Dug out the TRX and did some flys, plus bit of other <p>rehab.
S - TCA again, trying new blacks (TCA's idea of V3-V5, so anybody's guess). Got half a dozen, several more are hopefully and umpteen still to try. Got the blue cave problem - think this counts as an ancap session given all my goes on it! Evening FB 1min on/1min off x10 with assist, more flys and <p>rehab.
hokkyokusei - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Hokkyokusei - Welcome back, that sounds like an incredible adventure!

Thanks, it was fantastic

m - first day back at work - what a joy!
t - sick
w - sick
t - rest
f - rest
s - parkrun 23:28
s - rest

STG hoping my weight stays below 80kg!
the sheep - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> The sheep - 9 hours is good going, is there a triathlon on the horizon?

Cheers Dan, a tri is on the distant horizon. I have agreed to do one with the wife and sister in law net year. for the moment im just enjoying the different activities without worrying about combining them. Anyway had another good week, did something every day.

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 27km cycle

Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim and 41km cycle

Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 44km cycle

Saturday, 40 minute crossfit arms session in the morning and a 7.5km run in the afternoon

Sunday, 8km family bike ride, every little helps!

On the plus side im now consistently weighing in at around 15 st 8 lb which is the lightest i have been for a long time apart from having had major bits of me surgically removed which didnt count
Ally Smith on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to hms:

Solid week hms! Loads more volume than those of us that don't go anywhere near plastic during the summer!
biscuit - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan.

Total coincidence ;-)

I am currently sat in 2nd for The Depot Summer boulder league. Quite happy with that. Never going to catch the guy in first, he's smashing it.The next ones are pretty close behind me so that's good motivation. Quite pleasing that i think i'd have been 10th or 11th in the open category, so i'm not doing too badly. Had two goes this last week at the new set. They're quite different as when they set it was during the really hot weather so they went for some fun stuff rather than greasing off crimps and slopers. I think overall they're a bit easier so i'd like to get into the 230's this time.

Had one other session at AWCC Liverpool after a first aid course, that took up my weekend when the weather was actually good. Bit dismal. Lost psyche warming up as the bouldering there is gash. Went for a woody session and it turns out i've forgotten how to pull really hard on steep tension moves, no surprise. Gave up on that and went for some 7:3 repeaters on the BM2000 bottom rails. Just squeezed one set out, failed badly on the second. Gave up.

No great surprise to find An Cap systems have tanked and max efforts also. Need to get my BM up at home. Will need to get a mount for it.

In other news i've done lots of early morning exercises (prehab kind of stuff) to my achy bits, really sorted my diet out, barely drunk any alcohol and have been strict at getting 8hrs + sleep a night. I feel great. Who knew?

This week i am outside tomorrow (weather permitting) and at The Depot on Thursday. Keep up with the good healthy living and get out on my bike a couple of times as i've been nursing an achilles problem the least few weeks and still can't run.
Ally Smith on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan - continued progress on the hang-board this week, and some good links on the project - it started to feel like it was actually doable rather than a pipe dream

Week 27
M - Cycle commute; 18.0km in/out.
T - Rehab deadhangs – progressive set, then;
3x10s @BW+41kg on BM2K-AA slot.
3x10s @BW+13.75kg on 35degree slopers.
3x10s middle-2 @BW-2.75kg.
RH only centre slot @BW-5.25kg; 10,8,9s – like last time – the earlier heavy reps probably reduced the quality of these hangs.
3x10s back-2 @BW-2.75kg.
10x 1on/1off FoC aero-cap, with 8x push-up variants in the off minute.
Finished with 3x circuits; 10 reverse fly, 15 I’s and 5/6 narrow/wide pull-ups.
Good session.
W - Pec & traps #DOMS 3x10 low squat @45kg. 3x10 deadlift @64kg. Hip flex stretch.
BW continuous an-cap hangs; 4-finger drag very close to pre-chulilla levels (73s, 88%); crimp down but surprisingly okay given recent injury (40s; 92%); back-3 woeful (22s; 92%). Forgot to stretch, but later found 20min whilst dinner was cooking to complete 1on/1off aero-cap session (7/3/6/1@BW on the BM2K 40mm slots) - various L-hangs/knees to chest during these hangs to double up as core. Find these leg raises so much easier now that my hanging position is sorted
T - leg #DOMS – bit of stretching, but mainly lazy
F - Can’t remember – must have been lazy as my pedometer clocked less than 3000 steps for the day!
S - Kilnsey – amazingly drier than expected. 2 damp holds on the new bit of the project, and 2 soaking holds on Freakshow. Got slightly pumped retro-flashing the 6c+ warm-up. 1st go on the project bolt-2-bolt/drying holds. 2nd go was great; ground to chains; chains to crux; crux to RP crux; RP crux to Mandela jugs. 3rd tie-in – little explore of alternative finish – could be almost as hard as the long version, and with much less resting opportunity! Evening charity firewalking – thankfully not burning my feet too much! Late finish
S - Back to Kilnsey after not enough sleep. Back on the proj. Another great session making long links – went all the way to the chains – the last move on Mandela was a bit of a sod with rope-drag; need to optimise the draws/rope management for R’s. Briefly tried another proj – about 8a+ but need to remain focused on the big prize!
AJM - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Another great session making long links – went all the way to the chains

From? I assume not the ground? ;)

Sounds like it's starting to come together...!
Tyler - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

thankfully not burning my feet too much!

What constitutes 'not too much'?
Ally Smith on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to AJM & Tyler:

I'd never worked the whole thing from the the start - as i'd previously worked the end section from Freakshow or even Mandela - this gave me some insights as to how much rope drag there would be (lots!)

So, yeah, I'm still at a 3-hang stage of RP'ing

And with regards to burning the feet - only a couple of little blisters on the soft bits of my arches
Dandan82 - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks me, a decent week for me, albeit with no outdoor climbing and a bit of a re-tweak of the finger, but I like to stay positive...

M: Nothing

T: Indoor Boulder; 1 rep of problem at 90% of max, then 8 hand movements on big campus rungs. Rest 3min and repeat x8. I made a nice problem on the woody at The Project which worked beautifully for this session.

W: Indoor Boulder comp; Flash style so 25 problems with potential max of 250 points. I got 198 which I was quite pleased with, I didn't drop any silly points and the 4 hardest problems were beyond me but I didn't see anyone else get close to my high points on them. Imagine my surprise then when the scores came out and I was 8th, rubbish. I can only guess that those people flashed all the ones I did and then got the 2 that took me three tries in less goes, as first place only got 210.
The setting was not bad but there weren't enough mid-range problems and the hard ones were a bit too hard for 25-problems-in-3-hours format.
I think I overdid it on the finger on a crimpy woody problem, has been a little sore since.

T: Nothing

F: Indoor Boulder; Epic morning of effort, 2.5 sessions in one hit!
Rings and bar
Broken 40's - 4 reps of problem with 20 sec rests, 2 sets
2 on 1 off x10 - Did this on the new circuits that they have put across the adjoining 15 and 30 degree boards. The
circuits are useful but they do get in the way of the woody problems on the 30 board.
Also went home and ripped up the kitchen floor ready for a new one to be laid. So broken.

S: All of the DOMS. Mooched about painting window frames and being generally knackered

S: Indoor routes; Back to Calshot, and hooray, they have a new route! But surprise surprise it's graded 7a despite being at least hard 7a+, really cruxy and generally not very good. Rubbish.
Resorted to pairs of routes x6 using the 7b+ (only good route in the building), actually used the whole route this time, (it's only 7b at most really, and arguably easier than the new '7a')

New STG:
* Stretch hamstrings and/or hips every session -
* All 6 sessions on plan (+ potential outdoor at weekend)
* Investigate top secret lattice board at The Project and see if I can get access for self assessing

MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger taken a knock this week
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - Getting close
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)

LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 1/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
AJM - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

If you find out whether the Lattice is public please let me know as I'm also keen for occasional self assessment in the run up to Kaly.
Just Tintin - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to hms:

Hive mind of Fit Club,
Just wondering if you could advise what buttress/route I would need to be on to get a good Bristol river/bridge shot past the climber on? WCS is in Bristol this year and I'm trying to tempt one of the potential headliners into a Bristol landmarks climbing photoshoot... any other locations for very Bristol climbing angles hugely welcomed ;)



Ally Smith on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:
New Horizons (E3 5c) - long shot up the gorge with river and bridge in the background - probably needs photographer on a rope to get best angle

Low Profile (E5 6b) - slightly closer shot, with zero faff for photography, as they just walk up the ramp to frame the shot, like so

Giant's Cave Buttress (VS 4c) - bit more (b)rambly - but much closer to the bridge - the others are much cleaner rock. Best shot probably taken from the cave itself; visible here
Post edited at 14:13
hms - on 03 Jul 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Chateau Fitzwarren on the SBB itself. Mind you, the route wasn't in very good nick when I climbed it several years ago. You can get a nice silhouette of climber and lots of the bridge - there's one of me on it in the CC SW climbs guide!
Just Tintin - on 04 Jul 2017
In reply to hms and Ally Smith:

Cheers both will now just have to pin down said elusive headliner...!

Dandan82 - on 04 Jul 2017
In reply to AJM:

So apparently the Lattice board does exist, but it's in a room that will eventually become some kind of gym and the whole room just isn't ready yet.
I was just saying last week that it would be good to have some weights at a climbing gym nearby so this a good thing, I hope it doesn't take too long to get sorted...
alx on 05 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Hi Dandan,

The wrists and shoulder mobility are improving at a rate of knots with each session, not having chronic tight forearms and lats makes a massive difference. Making good progress on the planche, I can now hold crane with one leg back out in full planche so I am not that far off from completing the full planche (famous last words!). Good news is my finger is feeling better so I am back on using a pull up bar for front levers and flags.

Monday - Thursday; Planche & Dragon flags
Saturday - Rest
Sunday - Front levers, flag, planche progressions, finish with dragon flags.

Injured finger can now support me holding a pull up bar but only 9kg in half crimp when hanging a weight off the end of it in isolation. Such a long way to go to getting it back to full strength!
Just Tintin - on 06 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks for stats Dan. Do you have a plan of attack for your growing ticklist?
Lots going on this week on guidebook proofreading, WCS and BMC fronts. Luckily(?!) my next door neighbour starts hitting the wall between our houses with a hammer from 5.30am, so I have an extra hour every morning to fit stuff in...

Huge thanks to hms and Ally for beta on photogenic routes!

M -fingerboard
T - bar and rings (two weeks in a row but not getting any easier!)
W - core. Working Henley all day.
T - cappow
F - working Henley so managed about 60 benchpress and nothing else
S - Too tired for trad or anything significant. Boulder Burbage North up to 6B+
S - Still tired. WCS meeting in Sheffield in the morning, then headed out to Curbar for some soloing and bouldering. Pleasant surprise was finding Buy Buy (f6B+) - lovely sequency problem that was fun to work.
planetmarshall on 06 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Planetmarshall - Lovely set of short term goals, how did they go?

Las week's goals -

Two midweek runs and a long weekend run. Move Strength and Conditioning workouts to 4 sets, continue fingerboard workout. 1 midweek bouldering session and weekend trad. Come up with some Mid and Long Term goals.

A bit lame - only one trail run and no climbing - and a bit ill this week so it's not going to look much better. Went up to Scotland at the weekend to celebrate my grandparents' 70th (!) wedding anniversary, so much family stuff. Rest days mostly due to other commitments coming up.

Mon - Trail Run 8km/ Fingerboard (BM 5a, 7 reps, -30kg)
Tue - Rest
Wed - Max Strength workout. 4 sets weighted pullup/Deadlift/Front Squat/Shoulder Press
Thu - FB (BM 5a, 6 reps, -26kg)
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Rest (short walk in the Lakes)


Next week's goals -

* 1 midweek trail run, 1 weekend long run
* 2 fingerboard sessions. Increase weight by 4kg/decrease reps
* Actually do some climbing
* Come up with some goals for the year.
* Daily shoulder rehab


Fix my shoulders.

Kalymnos in Sept
OMM in October




The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
The American Direct (ED1)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.

mattrm - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 8lbs

M - S - Baby prep and laziness

Can't really remember this week. Been rather busy at work, that and doing bits and bobs around the house has left me with little energy or motivation for climbing.
Si dH - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to mattrm:

> M - S - Baby prep and laziness

Seem to remember our better halves might have had the same due date... how's it going, feeling ready?
Being past 36 weeks now it's all starting to feel a bit 'real' here...the NCT class on C-sections yesterday didn't go down too well...
mattrm - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Yeah, I'd totally forgot, but it sounds like it's about the same. I'm going to miss the bump a bit. But looking forward to cuddles with the baby and all the other fun stuff that goes with it. We're pretty well prepared, apart from all the stuff you can't really prepare for. So we've got all the bits you need, prepped bags, decided on food for the labour (isotonic drinks, flapjack and sausage rolls (based partly off my ultra experience)), made a plan a, b and c. Obviously that doesn't really prepare you for what it'll be like.

We did cancel the NCT course in the end. My wife's job is fairly full on and she's been very tired the last few weeks. After not being able to find anything positive about the course on the internet we decided that we'd be better off chilling out this weekend. Doesn't help that I'm in agony this weekend as I've driven the wife into work all week. So the idea of more driving didn't appeal. We have done a first aid course for babies and I suspect most of the rest of it will be learned better on the job than with a plastic doll.

We'd already been prepping for a C-Section as my wife had a low-lying placenta (placenta praevia), but that's moved so we're now back on for a 'normal' birth. So we're actually a bit relived on that front. Makes it all a bit less stressful. But we're totally prepared for an emergency C-Section if it all goes wrong. There's a great (quiet and modern) birth center down the road which we're going to. Attached to a hospital (not a GDH) so we'd still have to transfer to a GDH if we had to go C-Section. Also thanks to both our jobs we actually know quite a few of the consultant ob-gyns and anaesthetists in the area, so again that's a bit reassuring. I've actually done an epidural on the same kind of dummy that medical students train on, so I'm quite happy with what might happen there.

What about you? Feeling ready?
Si dH - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to mattrm:

Cool, yer we're about as ready as we can be now thanks.
The nct class was helpful for us but we were pretty clueless, ot sounds like you know your stuff already.
Good luck!

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