UKC

Afternoon all, this is a placeholder in case there are any keen beans wanting to get a post up, I'll do the stats after a visit to the parents for dinner! 

I'm not sure when you look at my week it fits the traditional definition of a keen bean, but why not....

I didn't manage anything all week. Some delayed trains didn't help (meaning my wife home late so more time looking after the wee man). I also didn't sleep very well so felt low energy all week.

A part of that was developments at work which required a certain amount of thinking - potential changes to my role and some thinking therefore required as to what I want to do with it - and therefore meant if I woke up early my brain was quick to switch on rather than doze off again.

Did a fair chunk of child wrangling too plus some gardening amd stuff which  was a good workout. 

I wanted to go roped climbing at the weekend, but despite the glorious weather noone responded. So in the end I went out bouldering. Bright but blowy, especially down at the tank where I started off. Did the 5+ whose name escapes me, and:

Tufty (f6A)

Crouching Start, Hidden Agenda (f6B+)

Vasco de Gama (f6C)

Which are all good problems, I've done them before but it makes for a good set as a warm-up. I then went up the hill, got in a bit more shelter, and tried the first move on Workshy (f7B). I figured how to get my ass of the floor more consistently. Long wy to the next hold though!

Then I moved on and tried the first move on Petty Thief (f7A). Again, I figured some beta, although I didn't actually do the move .There's 1 move, then 2 easier moves, then a 6A, so suffice to say the one move is nails .

Not too displeased with the bouldering, given it's the first time out in a long while and I'm overweight and undertrained and lacking in zip. 

Hopefully have a bit more energy this week. Away at centre parcs this weekend with the family but hoping to counteract inevitable overeating with a decent volume of active stuff. Going to attempt to start doing some midweek stuff this week too.

Sorry to hear that. Have faith and it will pass? In the meantime there’s clearly a gap in the market to start a special fit club branch for rubbish sleep, too much thinking, travel affected, new job... Once you get a stone over fighting weight and have to move house on top of that you’ll be ready to be my trad partner... 

To paraphrase Marvin the paranoid android: Sleep, don't talk to me about sleep. I go to sleep just fine. Then I wake up in the middle of the night, and am AWAKE for hours. Finally doze off again and then alarm clock goes off. Night after night. 

Guru there are steps which remain on the path before I can reach your level of enlightenment.....

(Christmas is coming though, so bring on the pies - there's no way I'm moving house ever again though! )

You didn't reply re Corrie by the way?

Brilliant Marvining. I hope that’s a word...

Evening all, hope it’s been a good week for everyone.

Small piece of business before I start, I need someone to take over the stats from Sunday 9th of December onwards, as I’ll be pocket pulling in (hopefully) sunny Margalef! Any takers?

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_608-69569...

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

Tyler - I’ll be in Margalef from the 8th! Here’s hoping for good weather for both of us…

AlanLittle - I mean, Mad Max 2 has it’s moments but… On another note, how about a weighted pullup for your STG? Seems all the rage right now!

AJM - your thinking runs pretty deep there, the only suggestion I have is to keep some of the stuff you enjoy rather than working weaknesses all the time, you have to still have fun!

Jamming Dodger - People I know who run seem quite polarised about running offroad downhill, they either love it or hate it, not sure how you change from being one type to the other…

Somerset swede basher - 66 degree board?! That’s one way to maximise low ceilings I guess, that must be a tough board!

Ally Smith - I just worked out I can only do +45kg on the AA hold, 63 is mind blowing, combined with bodyweight that’s mental. I hear good news on the social medias this week..?

Hms - Where is the Warehouse? Is that yet another wall near Bristol?

Ianstevens - Welcome Back! You look like a man with a plan, look forward ot seeing how you progress.

Alexm198 - Glad I could help unravel the 1RM conundrum, I think +30kg by the end of the year is pretty conservative

The sheep - Sorry to hear about your Father in law, these things can’t be avoided sometimes.

Lornajkelly - warning twinges are best time to pay attention to an issue, I hope you can keep it happy.

Dandan - That suspicious knuckle was up to something, I knew it!

Biscuit - how to push past V5? Fingerboard of course!

Powderpuff - what was the reasoning behind the super easy session, was it planned or just general tiredness?

Bones - Did we help at all with the front lever advice?

Mattrm - 2 day a week opening sounds like a real pain in the bum, the HiiT might be exactly what you need to keep on top of things!

Rebacca Ting - What is TOYP? I saw Dawn Wall and Brit rock, not sure if we’ve booked Reel Rock yet but would very much like to see it. And Free Solo of course.

Fit Club 666 goals:

AJM - Mark of the Beast (or Blue Planet/Privateer); E5 (or equivalent); sport onsight/“quick tick” & some from Colors/Tennessee/Paradise Lost/Bird of Paradise/Return of the Gunfighter

Ally Smith - Devils Gorge newbies; Rock Atrocity; press a sport climber; 8c+

Tom Green - Satanic Verses

Dandan82 - Horny Lil' Devil/Mark of the Beast/Camino a la Perdicion; +66kg weighted pullup - +60kg; 666 one-arm pullups - 28/666; 666 ‘good’ handstands 20/666 ; 66 routes at 7a and above including 6 routes at 7c+ and above - 4/66 0/6.

alexm198 - Versant Sataniques, 1938 route

Tom Green - 666m of arete on lancashire grit

Tyler - 66 yoga sessions; 66 routes at 7a and above, 6 routes at 7c and above

Bones - A front lever

Rebecca Ting - Fiesta de los Biceps (7a); Riding to Babylon (7a+); Stanage VS challenge

Mattrm - Lead 6a, Lead 6b, Lead 6c

Biscuit - 6xV6 slabs, 6xV6 vert 6xV6 slopers at BUK

Lornajkelly - Comes the Dervish onsight

Feeling less tired this week and keen to pick up the strength I've dropped over the summer. Really ground down post US trip I think. Too much work plus broken sleeping patterns.

Mon: Rest.

Tues: Wall. Up to V5.

Wedns: Rest. I think.

Thurs: Wall. Chipping away at some of the trickier/more awkward low grade stuff mostly.

Fri: Wall. Decent climb on ungraded new set followed by drinking.

Sat: Nails 90mins yoga class at 9am. Nearly threw up.

Sun: Yonder. Feeling way more on it than last week. Lots of stuff up to V5. Will try the woodie next visit.

Cheers for doing the stats as usual. A plan has often been the issue for me in the past; I easily get distracted by other sports! 

Thos week I stuck to the plan - two proper sessions and strength. Not quite the 50 mins I wanted to do as I was unable to do a session for that long, both the sessions I did were about 40 mins. Managed to get out too. 

Goals:

STG (end 2018): 1) finish at least one of two long-term projects (weather depending) - Beltane (7b+) or Deliverance (f7B+); 2) complete planned strength and power sessions for the next 5 weeks (20%)

MTG (April 2019): Climb >10 7s (sport) - off to NZ in April so ideally before then but always scope to add some there if I can find a partner (>24 in terms of equivalent grades)

LTG (end of summer 2019): Depends on winter progress - either a 7c or an 8a.

This week:

Mon: First fingerboard session. My fingers are weak and I know it, but still demoralising to realise just how bad. Range of hangs on the BM 2k, mainly edge based - too weak to even do three fingers using the middle-row pockets. Using a 10 sec on, 5 sec off protocol (Anderson brothers) and aiming for 7 reps. Followed with an upper body strength session: Scapular pull ups, pull ups, and some weights - shoulder press, lateral raise, frontal raise and bicep curls. 4 sets of each, reducing reps and increasing intensity throughout. Again a bit of benchmark establishment.

Tues: Yoga and rest.

Weds: 1) Yoga 2) Indoor bouldering at the Beacon. Whole load of fingers and?or powerful boulders up to 6C (topped) and 7A+ (attempted). Felt strong. Preceded with a look a Beltane (STG) but was seeping as it had rained all night/morning.

Thurs: Yoga and rest.

Fri: 1) Yoga and 2) Fingerboard session - revised hang protocols to something suitable hard from Monday 3) Core - hanging leg raise to L sit) dish hold, windscreen wipers, kayakers, weighted sit ups, TRX rollouts - reps and intensities as per Monday. 

Sat: 1) Got outdoors and had some goes on Deliverance (STG). Gave as good as I got before - can set up for the crux 9 times out of 10, but just can’t get the jump high enough. 2) evening in the works, felt a bit pooped but managed a few wasp problems (<6C). 3) Upper body stretches, Crimpd app.

Sun: 1) Got out again, this time to Curbar. Load of goes at Trackside (f7A) and the V4 to the right (the name escapes me). Felt quite tired and ultimately couldn’t hold onto the crack before getting the heel up. 2) Forearm extensors and flexors (Crimpd); 10 and 5 kg respectively.

Next week:

Hopefully the weather will be onside at the weekend - plans in draft for either North Wales or the Peak again - few things I want to try in both spots. Going to a slab climbing class on Thursday in the Beacon so need to plan board sessions around the above. Ideally One on Monday or Tuesday and shall see where the other fits in - but will do two!

Not a whole lot of keenness from me this week either. Unfortunately overenthusiastic weighted pull-ups are are what did for my bicep tendons two years ago; I won't be approaching them again except with very great care, if at all.

STG (2018): Boulderwelt project(s)
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Bike 1½ hours
T: Bike one hour. Had intended to do a bouldering session at the wall, but had a big day at work & got back too late and tired. Never mind, a couple of lighter training weeks will do no harm anyway.
W: More skiving. Too tired to go to the wall (again), although I did at least manage to drag myself as far as the beastmaker in the corner of the living room.
T: 
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. Project bouldering. As weak as a kitten, unsurprisingly given the heavy week and the fact that I've trained nothing but endurance for months. It will improve.
S: 
S: Wall, Freimann. Relaxed Sunday afternoon route mileage. 
 

Maybe we'll meet up, we did look at staying at Mac's (I assume that's where you are?) but there was only a small studio left .I was going to ask for some route recommendations in the 6c to 7a range, particularly on new sectors.

Work has been awful this week but I did regain some control of my weight but lost it again! Only managed one session at BUK but did do a BM FB session followed by 2 sets of FoC only dropping about 45 secs in total which is is a new PB

Saturday was spent in Kendal FF but only saw one standout film.

Sunday went to Malham had a brief play on Main Overhang, did a lot worse than last time I went on it in March, nice to be out in the sun though even if I did hurt my hip falling off.

Yeah we are at Mac's, I'm always keen to meet more FitClubbers!
I'll ask Mrs Dandan about recommendations, that's her prime grade range right now, but the one that jumps out at me is Margalwest (7a) at the Margalwest crag. Thuggy start then quality standard pocket pulling on heavily featured rock. The crag is small but has everything from 5+ to 8b.

Thanks me,
I was having a decent week but then the knuckle decided to swell up again for no discernable reason. It's not disastrous but it's a bit annoying.

M: Fingerboard; 8 x 10s hang on AA slot +34kg
4 x 7s hang on 2 finger pocket, front 2 and middle 2.

T: Gym; Pull ups 10 sets of 8 reps with 60s between sets. 5 sets +10kg, 3 sets +5kg, 2 sets bodyweight, this was hard!
Lock-offs 8 x 5s hangs (4 each arm). 2 sets
Shoulder press 2 x 6 at 16kg
Squat 2 x 3 at 85kg
Bench 2 x 3 at 70kg
Indoor Boulder; Project session playing with various problems. Was unable to do a move on my new woody project that I could do last week.

W: Rest

T: Indoor Routes; 5 hard routes with 10 mins between goes. Tried the 5 hardest routes in the gym but only managed to complete 2/5 as the conditions were horrendous (grimy) and I'm definitely not operating at 100%
Managed half a 4 on 4 off before we had to leave.

F: Rest, spent all day running around to get my MOT sorted. BMW and their proprietary running light bulbs can frikking do one.

S: Portland, Battleship; Got onto Keyboard Wall (7c) as it has been on my to do list for a long time. I was concerned it would be a typical flat wall Portland 7c with marginal crimps and smeary feet but it's actually a really quality route with some interesting movements between decent holds. As it is only 15m long I was able to have 5 tie-ins, refining beta each time. The route is very sequencey but I would be surprised if any two people had ever used the same sequence, there are lots of possibilities! On my 4th go I was making good progress but then my fingers just uncurled off the holds at the top of the crux! It's very a power endurance based route, there is pretty much no shake out from the floor to the penultimate bolt. 5th go ended at the same spot but I missed the catch on a sidepull. One to come back to for sure, it was much more enjoyable than I was expecting.

S: DIY club, sacked off the climbing sessions for the sake of the knuckle and got some more work done on the front garden fence.

STG (Last week)
Keep training at a level to allow knuckle to improve - Well that didn't work
4 hamstring stretch sessions - 0/4 FAIL
Repeat 7c+ indoor project - Tried, no cigar.

STG (Next week)
Keep an eye on the knuckle again - 
4 hamstring stretch sessions - 

MTG: (up to Margalef in December)
* Onsight 7c in Margalef
* 8a in a day in Margalef
* 7c in a day on Portland - TICK
* Squat 100kg and Deadlift 130kg - Sq-85kg DL-120kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 174/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3 * tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 7/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - Missed the boat
* Get to December without any new injuries - meh
* reasonably static muscle up -
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last - skipped due to it being in Scotland

BHAG:
* Onsight 8a+/Redpoint 8b+ in a day by March 2022 (40th Birthday)

666 Goals:
Horny Lil' Devil/Mark of the Beast/Camino a la Perdicion
+66kg weighted pullup - +60kg
666 one-arm pullups 36/666
666 'good' handstands; 21/666
66 routes at 7a and above including 6 routes at 7c+ and above. 4/66 0/6

Sorry I can't help with the stats Dan - I will most probably be nursing a hangover on 9th Dec, then promptly leaving the country on honeymoon

A couple of productive outdoor sessions, but light training load owing to being a snot-monster at the start of the week.

Week 45

M – Overnight snot monster. Nowt.

T – Nothin' - virus descending to my chest…

W – Semi-reduction in snot. An-cap repeaters. 7/3/5/3. 4x front-3 crimp @ BW-6.25kg. 4x front-3 drag @ BW +2.5kg. 4x deep middle-2 @ BW+13kg. Finished everything, so probably need to up the weights again

T – Still snotty.

F – Also nothing - Gardening club using lanterns

S – Morning boulder; after an hour I was chuffed to have made my biggest ever link of Rock Atrocity – flake to end – but the opening two moves eluded me. Jack turned up and suggested a different foot position and this immediately made the pocket moves feasible. 3 tries later and the first time I got matched on the flake I finished the problem. Soooooo maaaaannnnny link ups I can do now Quickly did the moves on halfway, then had to run away due to imminent in-law arrival and wedmin.

S – Max sugar tolerance test AKA afternoon tea with in-laws.

Thanks Dan. Its only 66 degrees because that happens to be the angle of the roof (its up in the attic) I wish it was a bit less steep to be honest as its hard to warm up on!  A reasonable amount of training this week but never managed to get to a crag.

Mon. Campus board session (3).  Managed to drop another rung so can do 13579 then back down on everything x 8 sets (failing to hit 9 on last 2 sets and had to use 8 to get there).  Bounces up to 5 x 5 sets each arm. Always made it up but failed coming down last 2 sets.

Tues. 15km trail run, Full length of stanage from burbage north to the a57 and back.

Wed. Indoor boulder mileage, 40 problems 6a+ to 6b+.

Thurs. Hilly 20km on the road bike

Fri. rest

Sat. Fingerboard session. repeaters.

Sun.  13km pram run but really slow - poor route choice meant had to walk where it was too rough to get the buggy through without bouncing the poor mini swede bashers about!

Thanks for doing the stats, Dan. Quite a full week for me last week. More progress on the pull-ups (6x4 with 20kg) which I'm pleased with. Maybe 30kg is conservative but I'd rather not gun too hard for something more ambitious and injure myself...

A lower intensity week this week to consolidate progress so far and then hopefully Scotland Club this weekend.

Last Week (Base Week 4/30):

M: 60min Z1 stairmaster.

T: Ice/mixed climbing max strength w/10min aerobic warmup and a core maintenance session.

W: 60min Z1 treadmill. Nice and easy at around the 12 minute mile mark. I felt pretty invincible and had no problem staying in Z1, which is a good improvement for me.

T: Ice/mixed climbing max strength w/aerobic warmup (this was my steep Z2) and core maintenance session. 6x4 20kg pull-ups. Tough, but doable.

F: 50min Z1 treadmill. Managed three consecutive 9:30 miles at the end of this which felt pretty good. Pleased with my ability to stay in Z1 at that pace. 

S: Spent the morning at the wall. Took the ice tools with me and did a grip strength workout (https://www.uphillathlete.com/ice-climbing-training-grip/). Kept increasing the weight with each circuit, up to 40kg hangs by the end. Will continue doing this weekly. Then did the mixed intensity laps workout from Crimpd on the circuitboard, made it a little further towards completion than last time but still completely gassed. Flashed a few problems in the V4-V5 range and then finished with a circuit of elbow exercises to keep the tendonitis at bay.

S: Well-earned rest...

Last week's goals:

[x] 2 ice/mixed max strength circuits w/core routine warmup

[x] 170min Z1

[x] 20min steep Z2

[x] 1 day climbing-specific training

Goals:

This week

• 2 ice/mixed max strength circuits w/core routine warmup (reduced intensity)
• 100min Z1
• 1-2 days climbing-specific training

STG (End 2018)

• 10x Scottish winter routes
• 1RM pull-up w/30kg...? 

MTG (April 2019)

• 2x Scottish VII O/S
• 3x WI6 O/S
• 1x M8 O/S

LTG (End 2019)

• New route in the Cordillera Blanca
• Bugaboos trip
• Caucasus trip

Cheers, Father in Law is home and on the mend so able to report a busier week;

Monday, 6.5km lunchtime run with the wife followed by a 0.5km swim

Tuesday, pretty much the same, slightly shorter run and 1km in the pool

Wednesday, home early so 4km interval run with youngest daughter then out with the wife and her run club doing  hill sprint intervals. Clocked up another 6km

Thursday, 1.5km lunchtime swim followed by stretch class and a evening 5k run

Friday, 1.5km swim and 16km ride home

Saturday, nice 5km run up and around a local high point which has some amazing looking climbing in the adjacent quarry. Shame its still working though.

Sunday, rest!

A half productive if not stale week in terms of exercise; four commutes to work so 104 miles done. No run yesterday as I was out on the Saturday eating more curry than a respectable sumo could manage. Top night out. <pokes fat belly>

Out of office training course today so I drove to that. 

Rest of the working week I’ll be commuting so another 104 miles. I need to ride as much as possible into winter before the blasted ice interrupts things too much. I’ve literally worked my arse off to get back into shape so don’t want to let that slide over winter.

This weekend I’m off in the van down south (ish). Not sure what the plan is but I think it’ll involve exercise of one sort or another.

Have a good week all. H

Hi Dandan,

I hope you have a good holiday in December.

Just general tiredness, but still glad I went.

Tuesday: ran to the wall and climbed up to v5 then worked a v6. Shoulder exercises, then ran back.

Thursday: 2 sets of 20 push ups, 20 sit ups and 10 eccentric wrist curls.

Friday: Ran to the wall and climbed 3 x v5's and worked a v6. Shoulder exercises then ran back.

Sundayave Macleod session. Max hangs on the fingerboard. Front three 6 hangs, middle two pocket 3 hangs.

Back in the UK and not overly impressed with that, after last week in Spain.

Mo: 8.3m General walking. 4 sport routes, (6b).

Tu: 7.1m General walking. 6 sport routes, (6a+).

We: 7.8m General walking. Rest day.

Th: 8.3m General walking. 5 sport routes, (6c).

Fr: 7.8m General walking. 5 sport routes, (6b).

Sa: 6.7m General walking. Travel back to Back.

Su: 8.7m General walking. 2 sport routes, (6b).

Got some sun on my back in El Chorro, 23 routes done, good food, a few beers and met some great people. Didn't have any targets, so made it up as I went along and managed to flash 6c, which was a minor success. Cool place and will head back there in 2019. Back in Sheffield for some Horseshoe on Sunday, which went really badly, though Shame gig at the Leadmill and a few San Miguel saved the day.

Resting back for a bit, then will pick up one training plan or another and get back on it in December, with some new goals. Also found some 666 goals: Satanismo En El Alpinismo & Invocando de Onan.

Hey Dan, hope you are having a good week.

Yes, thank you!

I got a training plan through for the front lever and about to have a run through. It looks like it is stability, strength and core. Doesn't make total sense to me at the moment but I will share it once I have done a session or two.

The advice last week was helpful to put it into perspective as currently, I can't get into those movements. Tried to get a video to show but it looked ridiculous and all you could see was that I couldn't get my legs up! I am going to start the plan soon and have set up a vimeo account so that I can share my progression.

As predicted last week was a bit slow on climbing/running. I went climbing once and worked hard. Managed to flash a few V5s and tried all the V6s I could find. Work has really taken over so this week will be similar but next week should be better.

Also, going to give the Hackney Wick boulder comp a go in early Dec and get a couple of Blockfests in. Anyone else doing them? We could get team t-shirts.

M - T - Rest

W - "HiiT"

T - S - Rest

S - "HiiT"

Yeah I think the sessions are beginning to have an impact which is good.  I'm slowly improving on the dead hangs.  The house move is getting closer, well assuming that we can all sort out a date.  I'm hoping we'll be in before christmas.  We'll see. 

Won't be doing any comps, but I would be interested in FitClub t-shirts if we do them.

Shall we have a design comp?!

Cheers Dan. Sadly I already know my  finger strength is not the weak link. I am deffo underperforming relatively. 

Last week was a bit rubbish. Finishing one placement and immediately starting the next got to me I think. I was really tired mon to wed. Recovered a bit and got a climbing session in (just a random boulder) and a ski session. That’s still progressing st least. 

Stopping noting my targets for diet/sleep means I slide so back on that this week. 

Targets:

Sleep - 7hrs plus 

Diet - 20 plus DQS score

666 goals - V6 at BUK 

Ski - one session 

Progress my dissertation! 

I think we'll struggle to get one design to be honest.  But sure.  I was pretty much thinking of something with 'Team FitClub' on it tbh.

Sorry for the late one Dan. Sketchy neck/shoulders still from too much driving etc etc. Countdown to not commuting?! 

Nothing all week then wirksworth WBL on Saturday (186 - pretty good) and a combo of Burbage South and Lawrencefield on Sunday in odd conditions. Nothing hard but lovely light and and nice to be out.