UKC

**ATTENTION!**

We are still in need of someone to do the stats from the 9th December onwards! I'm happy to do a bit more in the new year but I can't do the 4 weeks from the 9th, anybody fancy it even for just a few weeks?

Afternoon FitClubbers!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_609-69603...

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM - Nice looking day of bouldering. I know you got to the wall at least once this week, did you get any more training in?

Cyan - 4 wall visits in a week, that is keen! I never realised Yoga could be tough enough to be vomit inducing!

Ianstevens - really good looking spread of exercise in your week, hopefully that will keep you bulletproof for a while.

AlanLittle - Nothing wrong with a partial rest week here and there.

Tyler - Only one good film at the festival? Do you think we are spoiled by quality productions these days?

Dandan - Knucklegate rumbles on

Ally Smith - I’ll let you off doing the stats then! Super congrats on Rock Atrocity, hows the snot levels?

Somerset swede basher - Your campus sessions seem to be yeilding results, I’ve not seen many people able to train on them long term without ending up with some kind of injury or issue, so go careful!

Alexm198 - Did you make it to Scotland?

The sheep - Good news all round, lets just hope the quarry goes out of business soon…

Jamming Dodger - Have you had a good weekend in the van?

Powderpuff - Decent looking week, do you have any trips or events planned?

Ardo - Glad you had a good trip to El Chorro, its on my list of places to visit…

Bones - I quite fancy a blokfest but the logistics make it a bit tricky for me unfortunately.

Mattrm - Fingers crossed for an expedient house move!

Biscuit - What do you mean by underperforming relatively? Not trying hard enough? Not enough motivation?

Rebecca Ting - Late entry forgiven! Is there a countdown to not commuting?

Fit Club 666 goals:

AJM - Mark of the Beast (or Blue Planet/Privateer); E5 (or equivalent); sport onsight/“quick tick” & some from Colors/Tennessee/Paradise Lost/Bird of Paradise/Return of the Gunfighter

Ally Smith - Devils Gorge newbies; Rock Atrocity; press a sport climber; 8c+

Tom Green - Satanic Verses

Dandan82 - Horny Lil' Devil/Mark of the Beast/Camino a la Perdicion; +66kg weighted pullup - +60kg; 666 one-arm pullups - 28/666; 666 ‘good’ handstands 20/666 ; 66 routes at 7a and above including 6 routes at 7c+ and above - 4/66 0/6.

alexm198 - Versant Sataniques, 1938 route

Tom Green - 666m of arete on lancashire grit

Tyler - 66 yoga sessions; 66 routes at 7a and above, 6 routes at 7c and above

Bones - A front lever

Rebecca Ting - Fiesta de los Biceps (7a); Riding to Babylon (7a+); Stanage VS challenge

Mattrm - Lead 6a, Lead 6b, Lead 6c

Biscuit - 6xV6 slabs, 6xV6 vert 6xV6 slopers at BUK

Lornajkelly - Comes the Dervish onsight

Ardo - Satanismo En El Alpinismo & Invocando de Onan

I did, yes. 

I can do some but not all of those weeks, I'm going to be incapacitated on the 9th with the aftermath of a child free wedding so would prefer not to do that one really, but could do some of the rest.

Tuesday - wall. Probably a bit too much social chatter, and no aerobic mileage to finish, but I did try hard on a variety of problems and left feeling pretty blasted .

Thursday - did some front lever progressions at home. Need to video some of these really to check form, but didn't feel too bad.

Sunday - at centre parcs, went to the gym. Objectively speaking a terribly poor gym, but we were there with my sister who is something of a gym bunny so did a load of random stuff that's the sort of thing I probably should do more of but never do. Left feeling like I should write a list to give more structure to my Thursday sessions to include more of that sort of thing.

Hopefully keep the structure this week. Have a Saturday trip to Cheddar in the calendar if the weather permits. Otherwise I suppose indoors or something...

I can't do the 9th as I'm travelling back from Margalef that Sunday but I can do a few weeks after that although I know little about training .

Thanks Dan, yeah, I've been taking it steady so no issues so far and I'm still using the biggest rungs at the mo, I think injury red zone will be when I move onto the smaller ones. 

Mostly a lurgy enforced rest week this week.

Mon-wed. Snotty bleugh. 

Thurs. Started to feel better so 12km trail run. 

Fri. Shouldn't have run, return of lurgy. 

Sat. Unstructured indoor boulder, nothing harder than about V6. Tweaked my shoulder, knew I should have had a campus session instead! 

Sun. Flat pram run 12km and faster than I thought while we were out. 

Hi Dan. Cheers as ever. 

I underperform in relation to my finger strength. It was measured at 8A a few years back. So it’s not where my weakness lies. 

Once my back is sorted (it feels 95% there new) I need to sort my left shoulder and hips out so I can do some supplementary training. But one thing at a time. Whilst I’m still at uni I’m doing what I can without stressing.

This week has been a good one though. Diet and sleep were all on target. Probably the best week of eating in a long time. Sleep was enough but could do better. 

Climbed 3 times. One was a general boulder but with a focus on dropping a lot of the V4 and 5 volume I normally do and try some sixes. It worked and I got one. Happy days. A steep one ticked off. 

I had a training session too where I fingerboarded (10 sec max hangs x10 with 2min rest) on the beastmaker 10mm Crimpy things. Half crimp at body weight. Felt ok but first time finger training for ages so taking it easy. Then I had limited goes on some v6’s. Nearly there with a vertical crimpy grim one and a couple of others on the go. Then did some short, intense circuit work. 

Had a Boulder today to finish off a boulder league. Got 23 out of 25 problems done so pleased with that. 

Skied again as well. Still improving, slowly. 

Leg physio not done enough. 

This week:

climb 2ce - possibly 3. One general (hard) climb, one training session. Get another V6. 

Leg physio x6

Back physio x6

DQS - over 20 each day

sleep - 8 hrs a night. 

Hi Dandan,

Thanks it was a decent week by my standards but no trips or events planned I'm afraid.

Tuesday: ran to the wall and climbed up to v5 then worked a v6 problem for the rest of the session....made progress. Shoulder exercises.

Friday: took it ease at the wall but still managed a couple of v5's which is ok for me.

Sundayave Macleod like fingerboard session, 3 sets of max hangs on open front 3, same for middle 2 pocket, then did 12 front 3 open pull ups at once. Finished with 2 sets of 20 press ups and sit ups as well as 2 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls.

I hope everyone has a good week!

Just as well, because this turned out to be another one.

STG (2018): Boulderwelt project(s)
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Snowing: no bike. Half an hour shoulder, wrist extensor, hamstring mobility & rehab
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Much better session than Friday; ticked my main project. Some might laugh at even calling three sessions a "project" but for me at the moment it feels like about the right level: challenging enough, hard enough to work power & learn things about body positioning, (not too much risk of it disappearing).
W: Bike one hour
T: Bike one hour; fingerboard
F: Bike 1½ hours
S: 
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldering to warm up, then fingerboard, then attempted circuits but quickly found I had overdone the fingerboard.

Have booked myself on an Adrian Berry / Gaz Parry coaching week + an extra week on Kalymnos in May. Will finally get up something big, steep and in the 7's

Morning Dan - thanks again for your stats and chivying us along on a weekly basis.

Snot levels have receded, but another "illness" reared it's head this weekend...

Week 46

M – Cave love! Strapped on 2 knee pads after dark and got to work on beta for BHAG. Linked jug-to-jug on Pilgrim arch traverse ???? Linked pocket to jug on Green-cheating-heart. ???? Missing beta for section on hand-swap at end of RA and down the last bit of LF.

Things I learnt:

• I’m still too weak on pockets do the normal beta on Halfway/Greenheart. This can be worked on (or stick with the alternate beta that has more moves) – FB’ing
• I’m not strong/stable in wide positions for sustained sections – this too can and will be worked on. Rings & wide pull ups. Specific bouldering.
• I can repeat BC at the end of the session when powered out and pooped – promising stuff.
• I need to climb quicker to have any chance of even doing the shorter sections, and my power endurance is miles off where it needs to be to do the whole thing (and that’s why it’s a BHAG)

T – Evening rings session. Fewer reps than previous sessions, but higher intensity.

W – Pecs #DOMS! BFR fingerboard. 3 sets; 30x contractions, then 5x10s Front-3 crimp lifts @36kg. 3 sets; 30x contractions, then 5x10s Back-3 lifts @30kg. Kneebar intervals. Sideplank intervals & 3.5min plank.

T – Rest.

F – First session of the Stag – bouldering at Elephantitis cave by lantern. Flashed the 7A, failed on the 7B, did the 7C in a few goes with the Best Man’s heel hook beta. Failed on the 7B+. Ticked the crag beer. Failed to order food in the pub before 9pm. Ticked the take-away and off licence beers.

S – late start for Porth Ysgo bouldering clad in lycra and wife beater vest. Much skin lost; much banter had; a dozen ticks from 5A-7B (including a couple of 7A+/B flashes). Then ticked way too many types of booze in one sitting and ended up shouting down the porcelain bowl.

S – Hanging; made it out to Plum buttress by 1pm. Wozzy on the approach path. Palpitations on the VDiff approach pitch. Almost miraculous recovery and Alt leads on the E1 bits!

As penance for recent whining, I commit to doing stats on 9th Dec. 

(Providing FC accept the risk of unknowledgeable training comments, rowing analogies and lots of questions...)

Might be able to do the odd few aside from that, but not committing until I have a better picture of the house selling/moving chaos...

Cheers Dan, no hope of the quarry going out of business any time soon, its massive! So deep that whilst the trig point at the top is one of the highest points in Leicestershire the base of the quarry is below sea level. Some good drone footage here

youtube.com/watch?v=tmjWcMHEQeg&

Can also be rather atmospheric as there was a gallows where the trig point is, according to the history books 44 people were hanged there.

 Anyway week gone by went as follows;

Monday, 15k ride to work and 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 5k run followed by 1km swim

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home

Thursday, 500m swim followed by stretch class

Friday, 1.5km swim at lunch and 5km evening run

Saturday, 6km trail run with hill reps at the place mentioned above   

Hi All. Thanks for the statting Dandan.

I'm slinking back after a couple of AWOL weeks, accompanied by my training partners Shame, Guilt and Remorse.

For the missing weeks, I didn't record my training (and there wasn't much to record) so rather than try and record retrospectively I'm going to write them off!

Last week was better, although still feel like my training mojo is missing. I've been struggling a bit with motivation and discipline since getting back from the big trip in August. Not quite sure how to get the psyche back -different goals, different training methods? Or just MTFU?

The only good thing about my shoddy training regime over the last couple of months is that it has highlighted just how much good my previous training had been doing! Since dropping the consistent routine my dodgy shoulder and bad back have returned and I've found runs longer than 10km tiring for the first time in a year! So I know what I need to do... just need to do it!

Last Week:

M: Alpine start for a long day of work.

T: Road Run. 45 min Z1. 8.6km at 5:15 avg. Flat.

W: Road Run. 73 min Z1. 13.3 km at 5:30 avg. Flat.

T: Shoulder rehab. Much needed!

F: Long work day.

S: Great day on the slate. Scorpion (XS 5b) -pretty alpine!

S: Rest

This Week:

180 min Z1

2 Core sessions

2 Strength sessions

1 Climbing day (is anywhere forecast dry this week?!)

Goals:

May have a rethink on some of these to try and get some inspiration back...

Thanks for doing the stats Dan. I'd be happy to do the stats for the week of the 9th, if Tyler is happy to do the weeks after that. It might be posted on a Monday rather than a Sunday though, as I am hoping to be climbing that weekend. I could probably find time to put up a placeholder on the Sunday.

I did indeed make it up to Scotland and had a cracking weekend. Well worth the journey!

Last Week (Base Week 5/30):

M: Rest.

T: 30min Z1 treadmill.

W: Rest.

T: Ice/mixed climbing max strength w/aerobic warmup and core maintenance session.

F: Rest. Journey up to Scotland after work.

S: Walked into Sneachda for a few moderate routes to blow away the cobwebs. Climbed Pot of Gold (V 6), which was good fun and then moved together on Fingers Ridge (IV 5) which I'd never got around to doing before.

S: Early start to get a route done before heading home. Left the ski centre car park at 6:50 and climbed The Hoarmaster (VI 6). Superb route. Back at the car park for 13:00, back to Manchester for 19:30 and then a short train back to Euston. Tired now!

Last week's goals:

[1/2] 2 ice/mixed max strength circuits w/core routine warmup (reduced intensity)

[x] 100min Z1 (most of which was approaches this weekend)

[x] 1-2 days climbing-specific training

Goals:

This week

• 180min Z1
• 2 ice mixed max strength circuits w/core routine warmup
• 1 day climbing-specific training

STG (End 2018)

• [3/10] 10x Scottish winter routes
• [1RM: 25kg] 1RM pull-up w/30kg...? 

MTG (April 2019)

• 2x Scottish VII O/S
• 3x WI6 O/S
• 1x M8 O/S

LTG (End 2019)

• New route in the Cordillera Blanca
• Bugaboos trip
• Caucasus trip

The perennial training dilemma (for me, at least)... Do you have a trip planned for next year? I can't imagine training if there wasn't something concrete to be training for (I envy those who can!)

Cheers Dan. Lots of focus on trying to get all my planned sessions done, I’ve always been good at coming up with plans just actually doing them is a bit of a failure point. So thanks for the positive feedback and thanks for doing the stats! As a quick aside, I get a 403 error when I try to look at the historical posts (iPad)...

Saying that, managed my target again this week of two fingerboard sessions. Next (this) week I’m going to up the game and do three - last week of pure strength training before moving onto power. Bit of a life distraction mid-week as I have the small matter of a PhD viva on Wednesday.

Goals:

STG (end 2018): 1) finish at least one of two long-term projects (weather depending) - Beltane (7b+) or Deliverance (f7B+); 2) complete planned strength and power sessions for the next 5 weeks (60%)

MTG (April 2019): Climb >10 7s (sport) - off to NZ in April so ideally before then but always scope to add some there if I can find a partner (>24 in terms of equivalent grades)

LTG (end of summer 2019): Depends on winter progress - either a 7c or an 8a.

Last week:

Mon: 1) Yoga; 2) Core: Windscreen wipers, dish hold, floor leg raise (both with ankle weights), weighted sit ups (up to 20kg for 6 reps), TRX rollouts from the knees (tried from a plank but not quite!), side planks with lift (12.5kg for 6 reps), kayaker (20kg for 6 reps).

Tues: 1) Yoga; 2) Fingerboard - some extra weight on. 3) Shoulders - presses, frontal/lateral raises, bicep curls.

Weds: 1) Yoga; 2) Bit of a stroll round Cadair for an undergrad trip

Thurs: 1) Yoga; 2) Franco Cookson “Slabstaclass” - good fun to think about some weird and wonderful methods for slab climbing. 

Fri: 1) Yoga and a bit of a rest.

Sat: 1) Yoga; 2) Fingerboard - more weight again, felt strong. 3) TRX session - roll on, roll off; jacknives, rotated leg pull (put strange pressure on my Achilles so not very many...), wings (all from Gimme Kraft). 

Sun: Went outside and had a go at Beltane (STG). Close to the top on a couple of goes but it was a bit cold and numb fingers meant I over-crimped everything and got pumped by the top bolt. Limited on goes as people i was with weren’t to keen to watch me dog all day. Followed up with some low 6s. Nice to get out in November but don’t know if work/weather/partners will align again this year!

Having tried the Plum myself with that exact same illness, good effort. I nearly threw up by the layback flake.

Good lord. I did some early repeats of stuff on the Rack Buttress in Huncote back in the 80s. It was great. I had heard that Croft Quarry had reopened & swallowed it, but had no idea how huge it was, or has become.

At first I assumed you were referring to Bardon Hill - which also had some routes documented in the 1970s yellow pamphlet. What's the state of play there? There were some very nice little routes in Whitwick too, long since landfilled.

Charnwood Quarry hadn't been discovered yet when I was still living with my parents. Fortunately for me, probably.

Thanks for the stats offer Alex but Rebecca has already offered to do the 9th as penance for her whining ways!

AJM and Tyler can fight it out for the weeks following that and then we can have another look once the dust settles in the new year.

I do like all the caveats coming out about knowing very little about training, it really has very little bearing on doing the stats! I might train a lot but it doesn't mean I know that much about it, that's why I pay someone else to make my plan!

I think that’s part of the problem... I’ve no single big goal and I keep switching dates around for trips due to life stuff which makes it feel like I don’t have anything solid to aim for. Need to sort my life out!

It will help when my new tools turn up and I can get to White Goods. 

Hmm, I wriggled up the crack as an off-width - but it had nearly the same effect

Hi,

I've injured my rotator cuff again, so there goes that.  I've rested it for three weeks so far but I still feel it so I'm basically out for the rest of the year.  That Dervish thing is absolutely not happening any time soon.  Not being able to do the thing that makes me happiest, is my main source of exercise, stress relief and social interaction is absolutely kicking my arse.  Would appreciate any advice.  Ta

Hi Lorna,

I tore my rotator cuff 3 years ago, bouldering with AJM & hms on Portland. I was climbing in a roof, with my ear close to my shoulder, so i actually heard the tear - very unpleasant!

Climbing was completely off the agenda for a couple of months, but I discovered that in a particular position, I could still hang on a fingerboard, pain free. I went on to make some very decent gains in finger-strength and even fitness (Tom Randall, pre-lattice, wrote me a plan).

Alongside this, I was seeing a physio, paid for by my work health insurance. They were bloody useless and had zero understanding of what climbing asked of my shoulders. They basically said there was nothing wrong with my rotator cuff in my left shoulder as it was already "strong enough for any sports" - they retracted this once they compared it to my right shoulder...

In the end, it was a chance encounter with an 8c climbing physio would had more than a passing interest in the shoulder joint who gave me a bunch of unstable exercises that got my rotator cuff firing again in a suitable way. For anything but initial rehab, silly little elastic bands in well controlled positions are not going to help for climbing specific strength!

4months post injury i had a 4 day trip to Chulilla; 7c OS on first day, 8a+/b RP 2nd day, 8a OS 3rd day and much red wine jollity.

During the rehab period, I felt quite liberated and able to dedicate time to other activities, i did a bunch of road cycling, saw non-climbing friends i hadn't caught up with for yonks and even started internet dating. This final one has worked out very well indeed, thank you very much

Well I look forward to hearing what you plan! 

Did you go to the ACG meeting on Saturday night, by the way? I had planned to go but the siren song of Scotland was too much for me...

Sorry to hear that Lorna, any advice I give now is going to seem unnecessary after Ally's impressive words of wisdom, but I would echo the idea that there are lots of antagonistic, related exercise you can still do (or possibly even fingerboarding), as well as a lot of cardio activities if you're into that kind of thing!

Go and see a GOOD physio, get a cast iron rehab program and take it slow and steady, you can't rush these things.

I feel your pain, I've dislocated my shoulder 5 times, so I know how demoralising it can be, but I've come back 5 times too so I know it's possible.

Did some routes on Bardon "north face" a good few years back. It was somewhat loose! Distinctly remember leading one route that went up a broken up wall and finished up a slab. Led it without an issue. However when my second came up and began to climb up the slab a massive sheet of rock gave way under him and slid off the climb. Think we called it a day after that route. The place is still working but we never had any trouble at weekends.

Charnwood quarry is a great place, although i remember doing some new routes there that were more like swimming up a rock waterfall than climbing 

Thanks to you and Ally - I've seen a physio at Uni where I work but the exercises he gave me were contrary to what I'd been told before and seemed to make it worse, at least in the short term (he told me my left shoulder was higher than my right and set me stretches to rebalance, but it's clear to everyone who looks that my right is actually higher than my left).  I've stopped doing his exercises and I'm seeing a climbing-specific physio tomorrow.  I'm hoping he tells me I can start doing some light climbing but I'm braced for more rest. 

I've started thinking of other things I can do to prevent the weight gain that followed my first RC injury but the linked depression is making motivation tricky.  Current plan is to go easy on myself until Christmas, because it's not like I'm missing outdoor climbing opportunities.  Then in the new year I can maybe build back up gradually.  

Thanks for the stat-ing DD. Can heartily recommend El Chorro and may go back there soon.

Complete rest week after holiday, with only sciatica stretches and walking, to assist transition back to ‘normal’ life. Didn't put my usual half stone on whilst away, so must have ate better or done more. Back on it next week, probably.

Yes, went along to the ACG meeting. A bit dry, but think everything’s been sorted that needed sorting now. Not as much fun as the Northern corries  though! Hoarmaster is a nice early season tick. 

Oh yeah, I need to post too don't I...

M: Rest

T: Gym; half session so half sets of everything, pull ups 5 x 8 at +10kg, lock offs 2 x 8 at 5secs, shoulder press 2 x 6 at 20kg (pb), squat 2 x 4 at 85kg, Bench 2 x 4 at 70kg.
Indoor boulder; project session.

W: Fingerboard pockets; 7 sec hang on 2 finger pockets at about 80% max intensity. 4 reps on front 2 and middle 2
Fingerboard; 10 sec hang on AA edge at 90% max (99kg) 8 reps with 90 sec rest. not looking forward to doing 100% of max next week...

T: Indoor routes; 2 on 1 off, pitched this just right and completed all reps but not without putting in some proper effort.

F: Portland; Didn't do anything in the 7's, wasn't really feeling it so we just did some easier bimbling, the highlight was Ocean Rock (6c+), very anti-style for me, being a vert tech-fest on flowstone but I thoroughly enjoyed it. It's in a less travelled sector which has some great looking lines on it.

S: DIY club, made some serious sawdust.

S: Indoor boulder; 4 reps of 10 move problem with 20s rest between reps. 4 sets. The route I made was probably a touch easy as I improved my beta throughout the reps.

The knuckle has been slowly improving this week, it's at the point where it doesn't bother me while climbing and doesn't seem to be made worse even by bouldering quite hard so i'm happy that it will be ok.

STG (Last week)
Keep an eye on the knuckle again - Looking ok
4 hamstring stretch sessions - 0/4 boo!

STG (Next week)
Keep an eye on the knuckle again - 
ANY hamstring stretch sessions - 
All sessions on plan - 

MTG: (up to Margalef in December)
* Onsight 7c in Margalef
* 8a in a day in Margalef
* 7c in a day on Portland - TICK
* Squat 100kg and Deadlift 130kg - Sq-85kg DL-120kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 180/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3 * tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 7/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - Missed the boat
* Get to December without any new injuries - meh
* reasonably static muscle up -
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last - skipped due to it being in Scotland

BHAG:
* Onsight 8a+/Redpoint 8b+ in a day by March 2022 (40th Birthday)

666 Goals:
Horny Lil' Devil/Mark of the Beast/Camino a la Perdicion
+66kg weighted pullup - +60kg
666 one-arm pullups 44/666
666 'good' handstands; 25/666
66 routes at 7a and above including 6 routes at 7c+ and above. 4/66 0/6

Is that bodyweight plus 99kg? 

And there was me thinking BW+67kg was impressive! Think i might need to buy a dipping belt to spread the load - some unsightly marks on my hips this morning

What?! No chance! That's total, so 65kg BW plus 34kg added. This week i have to do 110kg (+45kg) and I doubt i'll manage all 8 reps.

+67kg is mind blowingly impressive however you look at it!

The Project gym has a dipping belt that is a 6-8 inch wide belt with just a D ring at each end and a chain, it sits beautifully on the hips, no marks at all. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XQZ72KN/ref=asc_df_B06XQZ72KN57153183/?tag=g...

oh...

I did BW+36kg on the BM2K lower rail crimp edges last night - felt like I had a bit more to give too.

This really confuses me - how on earth do you hang >BW on the Lattice rung with 1-arm but think 1.7xBW (~110kg) with 2-arms to be challenging?

I guess it must be a mix of lots of things, firstly I vastly prefer the Lattice edge to the AA slot, I could probably hang +65kg or more two handed on the lattice rung I reckon, and equally i can't one arm hang the AA slot (I don't think)

Secondly I don't think my finger strength is at it's highest right now so that's probably skewing things.

I'm very limited in grip types that I use, I basically use a slightly open half crimp at all times (I think due to finger length), so the Lattice rung must suit that particular grip more than the AA slot does.

It's a weird one, it almost suggests my shoulder stability is better on one arm than it is on two, which would just be bizarre.

Noob question here - which one is the AA slot?

Stuff an AA battery in the big slots directly below the 45 slopers on a bm2k

Which way?

I think this is normal. My two arm max on the lattice edge is only about 170% of my single arm max.  Someone else asked about it on one of the facebook groups recently and one of the lattice team (can't remember who) responded that it was common,  with some reasons. 

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - Too scared to weigh myself (yes, it's that bad)

M - Rest

T - Crappy HiiT

W - T - Rest

F - Crappy HiiT

S - Rest

S - Crappy HiiT

My dead hanging is definitely improving now.  Longer and more reps, which is great.  So yeah, the HiiT stuff is at least keeping things the same.  So it's good I guess.  The diet has dived off a cliff.  It's horrific.  Didn't make the wall again this week.  The house move is still a bit in the air, but hopefully it'll firm up soon.

Ok, cheers. So those weights are with the battery in there? F*ck I'm weak if so...

That's the badger.

However, take heart, I was consistently on-sighting Euro 7c when i could only hold bodyweight + 10kg in those holds

Not too concerned - nice to have a comparison and I know my fingers are weak

2 evenings on Pete's board, he's re-sent the 30 degree and it's mint for me, it's got some nice sharp holds that force me to crimp rather than drag. 

At the weekend managed a short session at BUK doing easy stuff (still can't risk falling on my ankle) followed by massive dinner the on Sunday another massive dinner for F in L's 80th