/ UKC FitClub week 616

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Placeholder while it dawns on me that it was meant to be me picking this up again this week... I realise I didn’t really sort out anything beyond last week so will put it together when I get home. Sorry! 

Is anyone able to take over from next week for a bit? 

Powderpuff on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Hey Rebecca, no worries!

Wed: first time back at the wall for 3 weeks. Ran there and bouldered up to v4. 3 sets of 20 push ups 20 leg raises 20 sit ups 10 eccentric wrist curls. Ran back home.

Sat: max finger board hangs at home,  completed 6 hangs and then did 20 pull ups open handed in the 30mm slot.

Overall just glad to be back climbing 

 

guy127917 - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

I can't do next week easily but I could do 20th and 27th?

Monday: Rest day (planned). I feel so restless on these days

Tuesday: NYD- 20km run about z3. Bouldering session, sent my first v7 (3rd session trying it I think)

Wednesday: Morning calisthenics, Aerocap, 4x8 on 8 off, definitely starting to feel fitter

Thursday: Morning calisthenics, bouldering, finally sent blue v5 in the mez which had been bugging me for ages. 

Friday: Z3 40 minute run. 90 minutes hot yoga... heinous as always.

Saturday: Limit bouldering on the wave- progress on both green and grey routes (both v7ish I think). A few goes to get a horrible black v4 on the new slabs set.

Sunday: Z3 45 minute run. Bouldering- dispatched a couple of niggly orange circuit routes and did some slabs. Finally stuck the first move of pink v7 in the pen which I've been trying for a while. 

 

Pretty good week- could/should have run a few more miles but Tuesday was the longest I've done for a while. Starting to feel tension in left IT band build up so need to stretch more. Shoulders are creaking from the bouldering volume as well (hence yoga). I've been much better about warming up before climbing with the theraband etc but need to be better about warming down rather than just pelting home, and the same after runs. I've also been fairly conscious during bouldering sessions to end the session when I feel finger strength dropping off to avoid any injuries.

5 climbing sessions- 2 more than my target of 3. Bouldering is going very well- definitely getting stronger and progressing through the sets at the castle, and really enjoying it. This week will be less volume- just an autobelay session on Wednesday and Hackney Wick on Thursday. I also plan to get 3 runs in but they will all be fairly short. I'm thinking of starting a proper training plan after Bloc fest on the 19th, so next week will involve a little planning for that.

alexm198 - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Thanks for doing the stats, Rebecca. 

Week started pretty slowly for me as I struggled to get back on the training wagon. Managed to squeeze in all the workouts scheduled but had to condense the number of days I did them across. Also did the first muscular endurance strength session which was seriously nails. Total full-body soreness the day afterwards! 

I had asked for a foam roller for Christmas so now I'm looking for the best way to structure this into my days. Every night for 10mins before bed? Every other day? Only when sore? Anyone have any suggestions?

Last Week (Base Week 11/30):

M: Rest. 

T: Rest.

W: 90min Z1 run

T: AM 60min Z1 run, PM ice/mixed muscular endurance session as described here. I felt pretty gassed after the second warmup and the main workout kicked my ass. Nice to be doing something a bit different though.

F: 80min Z1 stairmaster

S: Evening session at the wall. Warmed up (pull ups, offset lock offs on axes, deadhangs, TGUs and dips). Bouldered up to V6, made a conscious effort to work on my weaknesses so spent less time on the slabs and more time on the steep stuff. Noticing a big improvement through having a stronger core.  

S: Rest

Last week's goals:

[x] 230min Z1

[x - I put 2 but only supposed to do 1, so calling this a tick] 2 ice/mixed muscular endurance workouts

[-] 1 abbreviated ice/mixed max strength workout

[x] 1 day climbing-specific training

Goals:

This week

  • 240min Z1
  • 30min Z3 hill climb
  • 1 ice/mixed ME workout
  • 1 abbreviated ice/mixed max strength workout
  • 1 day climbing-specific training

STG (March 2019)

  • [3/20] 20x Scottish winter routes (inc. 2 VIIs)
  • 3x WI6 O/S in Ecrins
  • 3x Alpine routes

MTG (July 2019)

  • 3x alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos 
  • Push rock climbing grade, aim for 7a O/S

LTG (End 2019)

  • All Along the Watchtower, North Howser Tower
  • 5x5000m peaks on the Bezengi wall, Caucasus. 
Tyler - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

> Placeholder while it dawns on me that it was meant to be me picking this up again this week... I realise I didn’t really sort out anything beyond last week so will put it together when I get home. Sorry! 

> Is anyone able to take over from next week for a bit? 

Was it? I assumed it was and have already written one but just not posted it!

Cyan - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to guy127917:

Wick comp on Thursday??

Tyler - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Welcome to the first Fit Club of 2019 don’t forget there is a review of the year thread started by Ally as well:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_2018_review_of_the_year-698081

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_615-698159

Posters:

The sheep – Consistency is key so well done for getting out on Christmas day and boxing day.

alexm198 – Thanks for the Z1 explanation, I was being deliberately mischievous calling it Kool Aid but I do have some further questions: Is a few hours a week really enough to be fat adapted, I see lots of people running at something that must approximate to Z1, will they all be fat adapted? Secondly if that’s all it takes why does it take such an all or nothing approach for a similar adaptation to occur through diet? Keto diets seem incredibly prescriptive and if you fall off the wagon slightly it apparently ruins the whole thing so why does anyone bother when all they have to do is go for a few slow jogs?

Alan Little – Glad you didn’t take my comments the wrong way. I actually got stronger as well as fitter when ‘just’ climbing outdoors on my route despite what the received wisdom says. Its probably due to the ineffectiveness of my indoor training, maybe you are the same (I try harder outdoors I think?).

AJM – Depot is ace for getting loads done and if its anything like the Manc one there’s plenty of burly problems to make you feel enjoyably worked. How are T-Crack and Jerry’s Trav bearing up, are they looking worn?

Ally Smith -With the Substation and Boulder Hut opening up where you are you are a bit spoilt, I’m jealous, I’m increasingly finding BUK no good for my needs.

Somerset swede basher -  I think you win this week’s gold star for getting stuff done, well done.

Tom Green – Hope the lurgy is better. I grew up a few miles from White Goods and went to visit it as a potential new route venue, I wrote it off as I didn’t think it would still be standing in a couple of years, that was in 1988!

Ardo – I must be being a bit thick but what do LB, MH and IDH stand for?

Climbthatpitch – Welcome back, a couple of impressive days out there, training for anything in particular?

Cyan – I’m very interested in your boat but I guess I should say something about the training….erm, Years Around the Sun looks good! Is the boat in the sea or on a canal?

Guy127917 – You have a board in the loft? That must be pretty unusual for London? Your routine seems like the sort of thing I’d like to get into but never will.

Bones – Good job on the V7, that’s huge! Pull ups worked for Stevie Haston, thanks for the link, its depressing how easily I can be placed into one of those groups ?

Ianstevens – Did you get on Beltane, is it any good? I have unfinished business with Geordie War Cry and if there are a couple of things to do I might make a special trip. Does it seep?

Powederpuff – out of the rut and back on trck hopefully.

Tom Green – Hopefully you too are feeling better, seems like there is a bit of it around.

Dandan – I think you are the only one making steady progress on your 66 goals, good effort.

Alexm198 – another who has drunk the TFTNA Kool Aid, hopefully someone can explain the Z1 thing to me….. Good to see you psyched for the pull ups

Biscuit – Hope the term gives you some time for play/training, maybe having so much to do will help with the routine.

Rebecca – I guess these trips are when we find out if all the training has paid off, I hope so.

guy127917 - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to alexm198:

Foam rolling when sore is extremely unpleasant. I think that unless it is thoroughly ingrained into a daily or post workout routine then the chances of actually doing it (properly) when you really need it are very low. If I were you I'd start with a few minutes a day with a basic structure (for example 3 different areas on both sides for 30 seconds each) and increase a bit when that feels like no effort at all (like brushing your teeth). I don't think you can over roll, but of course at some stage you would be better off spending your time doing something else like stretching etc.  

Did you get one of the beasty-ridgy ones or a straight foam one?

Post edited at 18:23
guy127917 - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Ha no the loft is a bouldering area at the castle. There isn't enough space to swing a cat in my flat. 

I've found it's amazing what doing 1 pull up in the morning does for me... I literally go from a mental place of 'I'll probably just skip the workout today and eat breakfast instead' to all-in motivation just by doing the first rep. Really my goal should just be do 1 rep every single day, like never miss a day, because I will always have time to do 1 rep, and it's enough to get me going and doing more most days.

guy127917 - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Cyan:

Are you asking me if it's on on Thursday or if I'm going? Yes to both.

In reply to Tyler:

Phew thanks  all yours until you give it away then! 

Post edited at 18:39
Bones [:B - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Hi Rebecca,

Running feels much better after just a few weeks. Getting faster and haven't suffered from any neck/headache problems in the last couple of weeks. This week has been disturbed by babysitting for my friend's kids for 5 days but managed to get out for a very tiny bit of increased heart rate and limited the nutella intake to mornings. Feel like I am treading water waiting for the real training to begin. Back on Tuesday and have another comp next Thursday.

Mon: rest

Tues: Run 7.48km/45:40min, 6.06min/km then boulder session. Worked on another v7 and got a little further. Definitely feeling stronger.

Weds: Run 7.13km/42:27min, 5.57min/km

Thurs off to Bath to babysit for 5 days so a little captive indoors.

Fri: rest

Sat: A very tiny 1km hill run, plank, sit-ups, push-ups

Sun: A very tiny 1.5km hill run, plank, stretching session

Bones [:B - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to guy127917:

> Really my goal should just be do 1 rep every single day, like never miss a day, because I will always have time to do 1 rep, and it's enough to get me going and doing more most days.

Great strategy. 

Bones [:B - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> Bones – Good job on the V7, that’s huge! Pull ups worked for Stevie Haston, thanks for the link, its depressing how easily I can be placed into one of those groups ?

Thanks Tyler.

I am slowly getting into a routine of running and pull-ups but need to refine it to progress. Also on a weight-loss mission which has gone off the rails with all the kids food around at my friends house.

Unfortunately, I also know where I currently fit into those groups. I was surprised the other ones actually existed.

Cyan - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to guy127917:

Either way that's a win! See you Thursday

Cyan - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

More interested in boats ATM to be honest!! On the river but possibly canal soon...

Mon: Rest etc.

Tues: ???

Wedns: Rest.

Thurs: Drinking, some singing...

Fri: Wall. Lots up to V4.

Sat: Lots of wandering round town in the cold.

Sun: Wall. Boulder, up to V5.

Back on it next week. Along with the rest of London...

alexm198 - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers for the advice. I've just been using it on sore muscles and to relieve tightness etc. so far. It's painful but in that good, brutal sports massage sort of way. I like the idea of just making a habit of it, so will probably start there and see where it goes. 

Went for one of the beasty ridged ones! It has flatter sections too though, so I can wimp out when necessary. 

AJM - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> AJM – Depot is ace for getting loads done and if its anything like the Manc one there’s plenty of burly problems to make you feel enjoyably worked. How are T-Crack and Jerry’s Trav bearing up, are they looking worn?

T-crack certainly has some worn holds. The feet on Jerry's you can definitely see get a bit of use too.

Monday - 7.5km walk

Tuesday - the long drive home. Did a random load of light weight stuff when I got home

Wednesday - first day back at work, got distracted, embarrassing Sharkathon fail only a few days in. Oops .nothing done.

Thursday - walk to and fro work so about 4 miles round trip. Also some front lever progressions, pushups etc in the evening

Friday - 2 miles to work

Saturday - all plans thrown off track by confirmation .that the wee man has chickenpox. Day degenerated into a faff of organising grandparental babysitting, since (despite having given it to him) nursery won't of course want anything to do with him until it's gone, prepping for a potentially stressy week ahead before he got too antsy, and all that. Right old faff. 

Sunday - more of the same. I'm hoping to do something later though to try to make up for today and yesterday.

Who knows what next week holds. We have visitors all week, basically, and whilst he seems surprisingly unbothered by the whole thing at the minute it's anyone's guess as to how long that lasts. May well be a week of nothing. 

About 2 months to Font now. Still heavy at the minute - 75kg today - but when I've been to the wall I've felt like I was going ok - not peak performance, but certainly not terribly. So hopefully if I can try to glide back downwards over the next few months that will help. 

Onwards.....

AlanLittle - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Rebecca and Tyler

STG: Get over bastard perma-virus. Seem to be pretty much there (touch wood)
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project 
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: 
T: Max hangs & wrist extensors. Managed one more set at max hang weight than previously - a good start to the year.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Aerobic route mileage. Was climbing with a friend who declared in the bar afterwards that for him, taking victory whips without clipping the anchors is the best part of the evening. Certainly not a view I agree with, but one I could benefit from getting closer to.
T: 
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. Horrible session : whereas Wednesday was quite decent, today I just felt heavy & weak. Win some, lose some.
S: 
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldering with my son. Another spectacularly weak session: being able to do basically nothing except fingerboard for a month may have led to me reaching max hang pb's, but it has left me totally unable to pull or move properly. This will improve again though. The wall was absolutely rammed too - the sooner all the new year's resolutioners feck off again the better.

Ardo - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Hey Tyler, firstly, thanks for statting. Second, they are my abbreviations for Lattice board, Max hangs and intermittent dead hangs. I spend a lot of time on this thread wondering what the acronyms/abbreviations/TLAs are, so I feel more of an insider now someone doesn't know my training slang. ;-)

Mo:    General walking, 8.5 miles. Rest day.

Tu:       General walking, 7.6 miles. 6 trad routes to start the new year.

We:    General walking, 8.5 miles. 4 trad routes.

Th:    General walking, 8.0 miles. Rest day.

Fr:    General walking, 7.4 miles. 2 trad routesl.

Sa:    Urban walk, 9.3 miles.

Su:    Country walk, 8.1 miles. 2 trad routes.

Quiet New Year's Eve, then straight on the trad. Some classic Stanage on Tuesday, a couple of days at Millstone, dispatching some of the HVS's that are on my to-do list and trying moves on an E5, which culminated in a failed lead attempt, but pleased to have the psyche to even get on it. Couple of routes at Stanage today and a walk along the edge complete the New Year break. Child size bottle of wine tonight, in order to ease the pain of tomorrow's return to work.

AJM - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to AJM:

> Sunday - more of the same. I'm hoping to do something later though to try to make up for today and yesterday.

Actually a surprisingly good fingerboard session.

Feeling reasonably strong on offset "front 3 on AA hold and front 2 on little rail" hangs @78kg.

Also good perfoance on back 3 in the AA hold - about 7s at 84kg. I did a bout of this about 2 years ago, and peaked at about 10s at 89kg on the lattice edge. I find the AA hold a lot worse (for me, it just does not compute that one is said to be a proxy for the other), and am at the start rather than end of a fingerboard cycle, so am fairly encouraged by this and it gives me something to focus on as well which is good. 

Somerset swede basher - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Tyler and Rebecca for the stats. On holiday last week, glad it showed! This week has been about pulling hard then resting then pulling hard some more!

Mon. Wave session at the foundry. Started at the level 1s and worked upwards. Unstructured but did lots even with a social natter too.

Tues. Rest.

Wed. Outside to Anston Stones Wood, started working Bullet at bullet roof. Managed all the individual moves, only managed crux once though.

Thurs. Rest.

Fri. Back to Anston, linked floor to crux throw but didn't manage crux today.

Sat. Rest.

Sun. Returned to Anston. Conditions poor to start with but ok after a brush, ticked Bullet 7C! Strong and positive start to 2019!

Clocked up about 20km on the bike during rest days ferrying the mini Swede bashers to the park and back too.

ianstevens - on 06 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Cheers for the stats again Tyler.

> Ianstevens – Did you get on Beltane, is it any good? I have unfinished business with Geordie War Cry and if there are a couple of things to do I might make a special trip. Does it seep?

I did indeed - few quick laps (clean) on a top rope to give it all a brush and tick the blind feet, then got it done. First of the grade so always hard to judge quality, but I enjoyed it. Quite technical climbing and some big spans of both the legs and arms in places. Doesn't seep, but doesn't seem to dry quite as quickly as other lines on the slate - needs a few hours. RE: Geordie War Cry, it's wet, and even seemed wet in the middle of the drought in the summer - I suspect the drainage up top may have changed since it was done. FWIW there are quite a few routes in the 7b-c range in Bus Stop, and they are of course hyper-convenient walk in wise.

Goals:

OLD STG (end 2018): 1) finish at least one of two long-term projects (weather depending) - Beltane (7b+) or Deliverance (f7B+);  2) complete planned strength and power sessions for the next 6 weeks (missed one session out of 18); 3) 600 hours of training this year

Did the lot, except Deliverance, but I'll allow myself the "or", given that I live 4 hours from it. With other goals in mind I'll take it off the list for now. New STGs required.

NEW STGs: 1) Max Hangs on the AA slot to 90kg (currently 85.9kg) by 3/2. 2) Get up any 7A boulder - been struggling with these across the board of late; 3) Complete all planned sessions for weeks up to the start of March (3 climb, 2 hangboard, 2 strength, 2 runs) 4) Triple figures of points in the CWIF (in the 70s last year IIRC).

MTG (April 2019): 1) Climb >10 7s (sport) by the end of April. 

LTG (end of summer 2019): Depends on winter progress - either a 7c or an 8a. 7.5 hours for the Snowdon Skyline race (Sept 2019).

Last Week:

Gold standard one this week - all sessions completed.

Monday (NYE, shade hungover): Did Beltane (STG). Slithered around in Lockwoods Chimney to celebrate the calendar change.

Tuesday: Rained and sleepy. Yoga.

Wednesday: 1) Yoga, 2) Boulder projects at the wall. Cut short on the realisation two days of bon con were inbound.

Thursday: 1) Yoga; 2) Bouldering at Tanygrisiau - continued to be unable to do Tempest (f7A) but got a lot closer than previously, and should really have done it; 3) Run, 600m efforts x 5 @ 120 secs

Friday: 1) Yoga; 2) Bouldering at Nant y Fedw - slow start and nearly got up Spiderpig (f7A) but it got damp/dark. Scouted some possible new problems.

Saturday: 1) Parkrun - down to 18:56, first under 19min 5k in a while; 2) Yoga; 3) Lattice Max Hangs on AA slot; 4) Strength: shoulder shrugs (<+20kg), Pull ups (<+10kg), Shouder Press (<14kg); Bicep Curl (<19kg), Wrist Flexor (<10kg), Wrist Extensor (<5kg)

Sunday: 1) Walk in the hills, 8km/630m; 2) Yoga; 3) Lattice Max Hangs; 4) Continuous Core 12 min (a combo of dishes, crunches, leg raises and planks, hurts like hell but with a good rest should be doing at least 2 laps)

Next Week:

Same again. Another week of just climbing stuff (mainly indoors I suspect) before a 6 week strength-power block leading the the CWIF/Outdoor season. Sessions as per goals.

Tom Green on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Hi All. Thanks Rebecca and Tyler!

Wk1 has been a bit of a write off due to festive lurgy. Despite being a bit dismissive of other people's lurgy I am utterly pathetic about my own! Fortunately I appear to be through the worst of my (fairly innocuous!) cold, so can restart the new year's plan from this week!

White Goods is pretty crumbly! -definitely a better tooling venue than trad/sport venue! I expect a lot has fallen down since you visited Tyler... in fact a few bits have fallen off since I was there last year! Awesome venue for training though -I always come away feeling like I've had a good full body workout.

Week 1

M: Lurgy

T: Lurgy

W: Shoulder prehab

T: Lurgy

F: Lurgy

S: Felt a bit better, decided to rest.

S: Bouldering at Grinshill, shortish session but quite productive given that I felt week as a kitten. Up to (UK)5c including a lot of traversing and repeats to get forearms and fingers working. Shoulder prehab in eve.

Week 2 Targets

120 min Z1

2 Core and general strength sessions

1 Bouldering session

1 Tooling session

STG/Q1

Scottish tech 7

3 Chamonix classic mixed routes

1+ SkiMo summit

MTG/Q2

Lancs Aretes (666 Goal)

6C in Font

Bowland Run-Climbathon

Welsh 3000s

LTG/Q3

Cuillin Ridge Traverse

Lancs Aretes (666 Goal)

Some of: Westgrat Salbit, Cassin (badile), Grand Montets ridge, Cordier Piller, Etc

 

 

Ally Smith on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler & Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Week 1

M – Nuthin’ but some urban walking.

T – Walking lap of Cheddar gorge ~5miles.

W – Recovery BFR fingerboard at lunchtime – testing out flexor unit strain – feels okay. Later, gym; 400kcal X-trainer 175BPM. Bench 3x 2rep @45kg + bar. 2x 8rep @30kg + bar. Wide lat pull downs 2x 8rep 79kg. 2x 20rep 39kg. 50kcal bike warm down.

T – Warmed up for garage aero-cap but realised forearm was still achy so left well alone. Stretched.

F – Stretching only.

S – Frogatt bouldering. Pig Heart Boy, 7B in a few goes. Worked My Orange, 7C+ for a couple of hours. Got the start sorted (partner said crux) but struggled with a big cross-over move in the middle that felt a bit shoulder tweaky, so tried alternate beta but foot kept slipping. Hot Toddy 7A/+ 2nd go. Downhill Racer Direct 7A+ - fail! Shoulders very beat up from carrying lots of pads and occasionally todlers.

S – Life-admin and ~25km road bike.

the sheep - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Cheers, Back to work so a bit more pool time over the week gone by which was nice.

Monday, no exercise. Getting the kids packed to go visit the inlaws whilst the wife was at work and generally running around

Tuesday, new years day, had the day to myself so went out for a hilly 15km trail run

Wednesday, back at work so the usual 1km lunchtime swim

Thursday, 1.5km swim followed by stretch class

Friday, 2km swim

Saturday, 5km hilly trail run

Sunday, 10km social run with the wife and some folks from her run club

Just need to get back out on the bike now!

 

biscuit - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax and Tyler:

Cheers guys.

Yeah i'm back to maintenance and irregularity. But there's a light at the end of the tunnel. I've realised what I am most looking forward to when I graduate is having a routine. I will (hopefully) have set work hours and life will be much easier. I've kept setting goals and failing as there are some things I just can't plan for atm.

Anyway i'm feeling motivated to get back on it with my sleep, diet and climbing sessions with some structure to them. I can control that and stick to it.

I did bugger all this last week. Kids on holiday, work, Xmas lethargy andlooming return to uni meant no exercise other than a couple of leg and shoulder physio sessions.

Targets for this week:

2 x climbing sessions - will be boulder based. Depot WBL volume session for one and a structured str session for the other.

2 x  bike commutes to uni - 50 miles

Leg/shoulder exercises every day

Possible proper bike ride of weather is good later this week. 

DQS of 20+ per day

Sleep - 7.5 hrs+ per night

Goals for this year are going to be based on local sport climbing (Chapel Head etc) and mountain trad. At what level will just have to be decided at the time. 

Oh and the Haute Route.

 

alexm198 - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Glad you’re feeling better!

Seems we have similar STGs — let me know if you ever need a partner for alpine stuff or Scotland. Always keen to get out!

Forgot to add it to my post but I’m also hoping for a skimo summit or two in Q1 (though you are probably a far better skier than me!)

Tom Green on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to alexm198:

Hi mate,

Just pinged you an email.

ianstevens - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to biscuit:

> Cheers guys.

> Yeah i'm back to maintenance and irregularity. But there's a light at the end of the tunnel. I've realised what I am most looking forward to when I graduate is having a routine. I will (hopefully) have set work hours and life will be much easier. I've kept setting goals and failing as there are some things I just can't plan for atm.

If you want some reassurance on this, I finished my studies in September and swapped for a regular job. Since then I've had structure in my life, been able to train in a proper fashion and hence have improved a lot. There is light at the end of the tunnel! 

SFrancis - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Hi I posted in the review of my year and this will be my first time posting in Fitclub.

Ive added my 2019 goals, not bothered putting in all the route names as i have a large wishlist, definitely got some routes i'm inspired to do this year.

2019 Goals:

STG - Q1-2

  • Improve sleep / flexibility
  • Maintain aerocap / strength training. Back to and surpass+50% BW half crimp and attempt one arm lock off. Maintain 2 x cardio sessions / week
  • Some more winter climbing - Ice trip booked to Ecrins (End of Jan), hopefully a weekend or two in Scotland
  • 10 day ski trip to Utah in booked for Feb - Ski some powder and stay safe
  • Finish off some unfinished sport 7b-c /boulder (7A/+) business - A few to finish off but may focus on HoM in the short term, and a bit of light trad if weather permits. 
  • Finish paragliding course, booked most days all depends on weather

MTG Q2-3

  • Maintain some sports strength - a sport trip, currently Turkey looks likely, possibly a weekend to Berdorf again as this worked well. 
  • E1-E3 mileage - specifically cracks.. - I have a full ticklist of classics to work through.
  • Something in Huntsman's leap and Scotland
  • Something of the big route list - Grand capucin / Cassin piz Badile / motorhead / visite obglitaire
  • Something snowy - possible forbes / migot / chere.
  • Swanage DWS

LTG - by the End of the year

  • Consistent E3 all rock types and a E4 o/s- ticking off the long list of classics on my wishlist.
  • Boulder 7B got a few on the radar, tick >4 x font 7s - Font trip?
  • Build up pyramid aiming for a 7c+/8a tick
  • Strength (1-4-7, one arm lock off, +70% bw 1/2 crimp, 5 x bw benches, +80%bw pull up, 2 x bw dead)

Last Week

Mon: Quick hit to Carrock Fell, had a pretty comprehensive session in the works doing a fair few wasps on Sunday after an aborted grit sesion, so wasn't optimistic. Ticked "Novia Scotia Arete" at softish 6C but felt quite committing with no spotters, one mat and terrible landing. So had to do all moves in control, made it feel 6C.

Tues: Hungover, nothing.

Weds: Back to Carrock Fell for ~1hr, got on Rouse's Wall one of the classics of Carrock. Worked out the tech start, but jumped off as didnt want to commit to highball with out checking top. Checked and cleaned top, and then proceeded to fall off the tricky body positiony start, feels easy when it goes, classic balance and core. Ran out of time.  Walked up a couple of fells.

Thurs: drove home. Quick ARC and 1min/1min off aerocap.

Fri: Rest

Sat: 3 x 8min ARC sessions.

Sun: A damp cuttings. Did all the moves on HoM, no chance of RP attempt as groove was damp, got worse during the day, when even the easyish top felt slippy. Will be back but will keep an eye on conditions, bit of seepage in the groove but i think the humidity was the issue. Quick play on Relativity to finish, humidity meant I couldn't do next move after making the big move to the sloper. Imagine it would be a quick tick when i'm fresh / good conditions.

Post edited at 14:00
biscuit - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to ianstevens:

Cheers. That's good to hear. I'm at that horrible stage where finishing seems very close but also miles away. I know it's coming......

ianstevens - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to biscuit:

You’ll get there - keep at it and it’ll be worth it in end

In reply to Tyler:

A week of two halves and the warmer half with simple living and almond blossom, gorse and not being utterly freezing was much the better half. We got some great long trad routes done and I felt so much healthier when we got back from good sleep, good exercise, sensible eating, low stress etc. Time to get back to house-selling, moving, work reality...

M - Morocco rest day (multipitch HVS)

T - Morocco last day. Went for it on the multipitch E3 The Shining (E3) and led my first British tech 6a (all my previous E3/4 have been tech 5c) pitch feeling good. Stunning techy smooth corner groove that I've been eyeing up since my first visit thinking 'oh I'd never manage that' but it was fine. So next time I will inflate the ambitions on the ticklist!

W - F travel then back in the UK feeling cold and grumpy

S - Boulder Climbing Unit. Body not working in damp cold. Volume on the easy red - pink circuits.

S - Boulder Wirksworth then some outside fingerboarding (lappage on Lower Traverse (f7A)) as indoor fingerboarding holds no interest at the moment.

 

In reply to Cyan:

Worth keeping an eye out for Emily Nicholl (WCS acro/handstands coach/circus performer) as she is often on her boat around Hackney and up for a Wick comp.

 

Cyan - on 08 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

I know Emily well!

In reply to Cyan:

Fab. Of course all the cool people know all the cool people

Dandan - on 08 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler and Rebecca:

Thanks for the stats to the both of you,

> Dandan – I think you are the only one making steady progress on your 66 goals, good effort.

I think that might just be because i'm the only one that opted for some cumulative goals! If you look at my handstand and 1-arm pull up progress over time, I am way, way short of hitting the target...

M: DIY club, got stuck into my side gates, old fence destruction and hole digging mostly.

T: Portland; Started the year off right by heading outside, it was a pretty cold day but to make sure we fully froze our appendages off, we found a crag in the shade for most of the day. Mrs Dandan got stuck into England's Dreaming (7a+) which she made good progress on, I repeated it twice in order to refine my sequence and climb it better, something I think is a useful practice and want to do more of.
I decided to have a pull on Freaky Ralph (8a+). I'd dismissed it for a long time as I heard it was basically a boulder problem with a massive span, but recently I'd heard whispers of a short persons sequence so decided to take another look.
A few people have been working it this last year so it was well chalked which may have helped, but I found the whole route moved really well, most of it on decent small crimps and ok feet. The crux is tough, around V8 maybe, and completely perplexed me on this visit but the route ignited my interest so I was super keen to get back on it.

W: Indoor boulder; Linked boulder - 14 move problem repeated 4 times with 2.5 min rest, 3 sets with 5 minute rest.
Gym; Bench, squats, shoulder press, pull ups.

T: Fingerboard pockets; 5 second hangs on various 2 finger combos, 4 reps of each 2 min rest.
Aero; 8 on 5 off x3

F: DIY club

S: Portland; back to Blacknor despite even colder temps. Mrs Dandan ticked England's Dreaming, and I stood in a 5 deep queue to get on Freaky Ralph! Seriously, this route has a dozen entries in the logbooks over the last decade, and on Saturday there were 5 of us trying it! Local strongman Phil Belcher is on the hunt for the redpoint and everyone else was still feeling it out. I solved the crux for me, (with a lot of beta advice) and satisfied myself that I know how I want to do every move, despite not actually completing one of them. I only got one tie-in in the end, but I feel a lot of progress was made, both on the wall and by watching others. I'm really keen now to put some proper effort into it, I think linking it in 3 or even 2 overlapping halves is already feasible, and if I can get a rock solid sequence on the start and finish, it's just a case of hitting it until i stick the crux move, right? Feels good to have a local project again.

S: Fingerboard; AA edge at +34kg (90% max), 10 second hangs 90 sec rest x8

I need to create some new goals for this year, i'm a bit stuck on this one, as I move away from being totally grade obsessed and focusing more on having fun and improving as a climber, it makes objective goals harder to come by, despite the end target being the same (climb harder!) Freaky Ralph will go on the list of course, but aside from that i'm short of ideas that are specifically climbing based. Antagonist goals are 10 a penny, gym goals, rings goals, pull up goals, I can pick a load of those out of a hat, but the climbing goals are a bit harder, i'll have to do more thinking.

Climbthatpitch - on 09 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks for doing the stats.

Nothing planned yet but I do what to do a 50 miler soon and I'm really enjoying multiple days out in the hills currently. Completed my first fast pack on the weekend and defiantly plan to do more with a long term goal of the spine race (sounds cold and painful so right up my street but need a good 5 - 10 years of training first).

M - Rest

T - 10km, 271m accent, 05:58 min per km, Z1

W - AM - 10km, 173m accent, 06:29 min per km, Z1

      PM - 5km, 56m accent, 04:21 min per km, Z3

T - 14km, 213m accent, 05:58 min per km, Z1

F - Bouldering on the v3 - v4 circuit at boulders Cardiff

S - Fast Pack day 1 - 20km, 961m accent, 08:35 per km, Stayed in a bothy in the black mountains. First time in one.

S - Fast Pack Day 2 - 35km, 725m accent, 07:56 min per km, z1

Lee

 

mattrm - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Still not much.  Hopefully not so much DIY Clubbing.  Don't have the time with the baby around.  This house was supposed to be all sorted, but the list keeps getting bigger everytime I see it.

Again not much, still sorting out the house after the move.  I guess lugging boxes and putting up shelves and curtains counts.  Also been for a few walks by the river.  It's definitely very pretty in Abergavenny.


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