UKC

UKC FitClub week 618

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 Tyler 20 Jan 2019

** I can’t do intro next week as I have a big work thing, can someone take over **

Well this weather’s a bit of a disappointment! Things looking up for those with an interest in Scottish climbing though…

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last week’s thread can be found here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_617-69877...

Posters:

Biscuit – Which Moonboard are you going to? I went to Rockover on Wednesday to reacquaint myself with it. Enjoyed it but it’s hard. I need to tap you up for some doable 6b+ problems as the grades are all over the place. I’m guessing that despite the drop in temps there’s not been enough snow for skiing in Scotland this weekend?

AJM – Back three training seems very specific, is this for a particular route? My little fingers are so short and gnarled there’s little difference between back three and mid 2! You and Bones should post up photos of your front lever progression, so we can all judge.

Alan Little – Shit sessions are an inevitability and it looks like you’d done quite a lot through the week, I wouldn’t say to do fewer sessions (especially if you are building up for a holiday where you are probably going to be climbing 2 on 1 off) just put up with the dips in form.

The sheep – Are you putting off the speed work because you don’t enjoy it? Once you’ve done a few sessions you might start to enjoy.

Tom Green – Grinshill is an interesting venue, what made you go there? I’m guessing you might have risked a trip to Scotland this weekend?

Alexm198 – Thank you very much for taking time to reply to my questions, I meant to reply in the thread as I read a couple of articles about it. I think the first thing I need to do is try and do some Z1 to see what it feels like, what I imagine it to be might be quite different in reality; I’m certainly never going to change my diet sufficiently to be fat adapted!  Loving your goal of All Along the Watch Tower, that’s some route.

Ardo- You don’t need me to tell you that the stretching is the most important thing to be doing right now so hope to see a report of at least 30 mins per day this week….

Somerset Swede Basher – Lots going on there but the decision to dial back a little to avoid injury is probably the most important, always a fine line to tread.

Guy127917 – Turning into a full on comp boulderer! Sounds like you did quite well, did you carry that form into Blocfest?

Dandan – I didn’t realise DIY Club was an actual thing! Are you usually stronger on middle 2 than front 2, I’m the other way around by some margin and assumed that was the same for everyone.

SFrancis – I applaud anyone who goes out on routes at this time of year. Is paragliding a big thing with you or was that a one off?

Ally Smith – Another with a knack of finding dry rock despite the gloomy weather around here. 7C+ is a pretty good sighter at this time of year, this week’s gold star I think.

Mattrm – Are there showers at work? The 4 mile walk could be usefully done at speed or with a backpack but not if you have to spend the rest of the working day sat in your own sweat! I’ve not been able to fall on mats since last July so I feel your pain, it’s surprising how much you have to drop your level to be certain you won’t fall. It’s still worthwhile but it’s pretty dull.

Bones – Great progress on the pull ups and I’m look forward to the promised details (along with a comp report, particularly keen to see if you beat guy). A double whammy of Paris and Bath, you are spoilt.

Powederpuff – We need to know details of the max hangs, this is a thread for training nerds after all

Ianstevens – Belated congrats for Beltane. So nearly a classic day’s bouldering, hopefully you’ll get back to them before you forget any crucial beta.

Rebecca Ting – I went to Castle rock (Cleeve Hill?) once, managed everything except the E4, the holds were pretty positive so it lent itself to soloing. This was pre-mats era but I recall it’s probably reasonable high ball height?

Climbthatpitch – Since starting this I am being reminded of so many places I still need to get to, the Brecon Beacons being one of them. I hope the weather is good for Scotland and you can organise something for the alps.

 SFrancis 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks for doing a comprehensive set of stats.

I'm hoping the paragliding will become a big thing, turns out for learning its more dependent on conditions than climbing. In order to get insurance for the UK sites, usually part of the access agreement, you need to have completed two 5 day (could be more, as you need to tick off skills) courses to get Elementary pilot (EP) and Club Pilot (CP) rating. I completed EP in spain last year, but opted to do CP in the UK, as UK has some of the harder flying conditions and a lot of people learn in easier conditions in the alps or spain then come back and have an accident, witnessed a minor accident that ended up in A&E last week. The drawbacks of UK is the lack of perfect learning conditions, you need low windspeeds, and can only take offf and land in to wind, so the aspect of the flying site is critical as well. So its a slow process, but ive had a few soaring flights in the UK, and the feeling undescribable. So i'm going to keep at it, with the idea of hike n fly being the ultimate goal.

Week 14/01 - 20/01

Work took its toll this week, early starts and late finishes. Managed most of my plan completed, but didn't really work on my goal of increasing sleep quantity and quality. I'm off to Ecrins next Saturday, so i'm cramming a bit with getting all my work sorted and last bit of training.

Mo: aero 4x4s upto 6c indoors, trying not to get pumped., 2 x 5 I,Y,and Ts on TRX and 3 x 20 push ups.

Tu: Lunchtime gym session, Bench 3sets x 3 - 60kg, Deadlift 3 x 3reps - 110kg. P.M ~25min run (~5km).

We: 10 min ARC and warm up.  Max hangs 1/2 crimp - 98kg, 5 x 10s, completed all with ease. A lot of boulders upto ~6Cish.

Th: ~25min run (~5km)

Fr: Late finish at work. So unfocused bouldering session, but good fun.

Sa: 10 min ARC and warm up, a few goes on some harder routes indoors (7a+/b), 3 x 3 offset pull ups, 10s hangs on small edges 5 reps, 2 x 5 I,Y,T. 

Su: Nothing rest. Possibly fit in a ~25min run.

 AlanLittle 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

I still have another session on the agenda for today, so watch this space. Meanwhile a couple of observations on your comments to other people:

> Dandan – ... Are you usually stronger on middle 2 than front 2, I’m the other way around by some margin and assumed that was the same for everyone.

I'm definitely stronger on middle 2 than front 2, and always assumed that was normal. But as a Frankenjura semi-local I'm something of a pocket shape connoisseur, and sometime front 2 just fits better & feels more secure.

> Mattrm – Are there showers at work? The 4 mile walk could be usefully done at speed or with a backpack but not if you have to spend the rest of the working day sat in your own sweat!

When I had a 20th floor office I experimented with walking back up after lunch. But I found I couldn't avoid breaking a sweat no matter how slowly I went.

 AJM 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> AJM – Back three training seems very specific, is this for a particular route? My little fingers are so short and gnarled there’s little difference between back three and mid 2! You and Bones should post up photos of your front lever progression, so we can all judge.

Nothing in particular, no. I think the continuation of it is because I'm seeing progress and therefore have something to aim for. I think the start point was a session where I just couldn't be arsed with hanging loads of weight off me (either faff or a sore back, I forget), which I do on the AA and rail crimps on a bm2k for a 4 finger crimp. So I figured I'd go fewer fingers instead, and I don't do front 3 that much since getting a flexor unit strain a few years ago so went for back-3, which was actually the main hang I worked on when rehabbing that injury when my son was first born. It wasn't very scientific, but musing afterwards I suppose holds where you don't need to add much weight make it easier to isolate the fingers as the limiting link in the chain, whereas once I'm adding 25-30kg or whatever there's always the risk that the shoulders are contributing to failure as well. 

I'll see what I can do about photos.

I can also do next week if you want and get no other takers.

A good week for me this week - no outdoors, but fairly active and some decent climbing training, plus week one of the main stress fortnight is now done.

Monday - walked to/fro work, 4 miles or so

Tuesday - walked to work. Left work fairly late (not quite 7pm) but pushed on to the wall .not the longest session, but a strong one, ticked a few things I'd struggled with previously and made progress on a few more. Managed a few laps of the traverse wall to finish too in an effort to keep some fitness going.

Wednesday - I forget if I walked to work. I definitely had to get a taxi straight to nursery through some quality overrunning disorganisation.

Thursday - fingerboard. Again basically focusing on back-3 in the AA, up to 88kg. Might start to get some heavy 4 finger action on this hold soon as I think it forces more of a half crimp than the lattice rung, where my half crimp is definitely at the lazy end.

Friday - walk to work, 2 miles. travel to oxford.

Saturday - urban ambling round Oxford for mrsAJMs birthday. 

Sunday - back home in the afternoon. TRX session, some good flies, and some I/Y (face down) reps - sacked doing it from my feet and went for knees instead as feet seems to really aggravated my lower back. Does anyone else find this? Also a few token front lever progressions. Also some planks, pushups and so on.

 Cyan 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Sorry for being AWOL last week.

Mon: Routes. Destroyed myself doing laps and whimpered the whole way home.

Tues: Boat shopping.

Wedns: Rest.

Thurs: Rest.

Fri: Wall. Routes followed by bouldering. A bit carried away and trashed myself again.

Sat: Blokfest. 

Sun: Two hours sleep and a day full of drama. Needing to crash out as soon as possible.

In reply to Tyler:

Hi Tyler, thanks for the stats. This week I had a grumbly elbow after Mondays session so done easier stuff and endurance for the rest of the week and some physio exercises to sort it out. I get a golfers elbow flare up every now and then and respond really well to the right exercises so shouldn't take long to shift. A massive pile of work is going to land on my desk Tuesday afternoon so I won't be able to enjoy the plentiful training time I've had the last few weeks anyway. 

Mon. Finger board session  

Tues. Did the black circuit at the works, about 35 problems 5+ to 6a+ I think. Mostly flashed but one I couldn't do at all. Nice social session. 

Wed. Short core session. 

Thurs. 30km on the road bike. 

Fri. Circuit board session. Managed 3 laps of the 7c inside 8mins at the Peak of the pyramid. Probably should work out the beta on the 7c+.

Sat. 8km on the mtb moving kids to the park. 10km on the roadbike collecting my harness from the foundry, apparently its been there for the last 3 weeks! 

Sun. Autobelay session at AW Sheffield. 10mins on 10mins off x4. Always climbed down rather than lowering off. 6b-6c on the way up and 6a-6b when downclimbing. 

 Tom Green 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Hi All. Thanks for statting again Tyler.

I could potentially do the stats next Sunday, but it would be a bit late as I'm away for the weekend.

Grinshill is my 'local' -a bit of a niche venue but good to have on the doorstep. The 'positives': nice mix of sunny and sheltered, really nice setting, some really aesthetic problems, sandstone pockets and slopers that are perfect for honing fingers of steel. The 'negatives': soft rock that needs a good 48hrs of drying to avoid snapping flakes and disintegrating crimps, some of the problems are quite eliminate, some of the best lines are terrifying highballs with bad landings.

Week 3:

Ticked Z1 goal, core goal, bouldering goal. Missed one strength sesh and didn't fit in the tooling sesh.

M: Rest

T: Hill run. Only 7km but v hilly and technical. 340m ascent. 50min Z1/2.

W: Rest.

T: Indoor bouldering at Boardroom. Ticked the V0-1 circuit then flailed around on some V3-4 achieving one satisfying tick and two tweaked fingers (resulting in a temper tantrum and grumpy drive home).

F: Rest

S: Short warm up run, Core and general strength. Increased weights/resistance on most exercises. Need to buy more weights for deadlifting.

S: Hill run. 12.5km, v hilly and technical in thick fog. Beautifully brutal, complete with falls, gorse bushes and an extra two hills due to my mental map and compass disagreeing with the real world. 480m ascent. 85 mins Z1/2.

Week 4 Targets:

130 min Z1.

2 Core and General Strength sessions.

2 days trad.

Keep up shoulder/elbow prehab.

STG/Q1:

Scottish Tech 7

3+ classic Cham mixed routes.

1+ SkiMo summit.

Average 300m vertical on weekly runs. (Tick! -rolling avg: 346m/wk)

MTG/Q2:

Lancs Aretes (666 goal)

6C in Font 

Average 300m vert running per week

Bowland run/climbathon

Welsh 3000s

LTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Lancs aretes (666 goal)

Average 300m vert running per week

Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, etc...

 

 the sheep 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> The sheep – Are you putting off the speed work because you don’t enjoy it? Once you’ve done a few sessions you might start to enjoy.

Pretty much, need to grasp the nettle now other wise i wont be getting any quicker! Managed to do something every day again so happy with volume at least.

Monday, 2km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 5k run, put a 500m segment in to run at 20 min/5k pace so i can get used to it, then will extend the distance. Didnt die, result!

Wednesday, 2km lunchtime swim. Run club intervals session in the evening, still covered 8km, didnt die again. Result 

Thursday, 2km lunchtime swim and stretch class

Friday, away at a conference all day so just a 5k evening run

Saturday, 6.5km trail run and 1km swim

Sunday, 8km trail run

 Ally Smith 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> Ally Smith – Another with a knack of finding dry rock despite the gloomy weather around here. 7C+ is a pretty good sighter at this time of year, this week’s gold star I think.

Thing is, I didn't tick the 7C+! A soft-touch 7C was had, but that played to one of my more obvious strengths (lank). Several 7C+ and 8A projects coming along nicely at the moment, but aerobic fitness has taken a bashing as a result. Not done anything to correct that imbalance this week either...

Week 3

M – Stretching and elbow eccentric prehab

T – max hangs session. Pinky flexor still grumbling, so again no all-out 4-finger efforts.

Grip                 PB        Session#3        Session #4       Next session?  Goal

BM2K-AA          67kg     20kg (ache)       30kg(dull ache)  +10kg?             +BW

Front-3              38kg     36kg                 38kg                 +1.5kg?            +45kg

Back-3              36.25kg skip                  15kg(dull ache)  +5kg?               +42kg

Middle-2           44kg     42.5kg              44kg                 +2kg?               +50kg

Crimp               33kg     20kg(ache)        30kg(dull ache)  +2kg?               +40kg

Front-2              41kg     40kg                 41kg                 +1kg?               +50kg

Back-2              25kg     skip                   5kg(dull ache)    +5kg                 +30kg

W – Gym. 60min aerobic shizzle. Brief pull-up & bench press session (3x12@45kg)

T – Limestone boulder. Very cold, low humidity and glassy rock. Grit would have been better.

F – Stretching and elbow eccentric prehab

S – DIY club.

S – DIY club, then another limestone boulder. Less glassy, and made a highpoint on 2x 7C+ project, but no cigar on either. Need to work on my finger strength, core tension and flexibility…

 AlanLittle 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

STG: ?
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project 
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: 
T: Didn't make my usual weekday evening routes session because of a deadline at work. Squeezed in a decent max hangs session before bed.
W: 
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Well blow me. I haven't tried to boulder hard since April and now I get back on the moonboard & suddenly have no ability to pull hard. Funny how that seems to happen. I did, however (not on the moonboard) save the evening by burning a friend off on a problem involving a heel toe cam - not bad considering I'm an old codger who regards any footwork more complicated than tiptoeing on brick edges as esoteric newfangled wizardry.
Bike to & from.
F: 
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Project bouldering: already felt better than Thursday. Trying to stay off the vert crimping & get my upside down on as much as possible.
Bike to & from. Only wearing my second warmest gloves turned out to be a mistake.
S: Wall, Freimann. Aerobic route mileage. Definitely not firing on all cylinders due to bouldering yesterday (and cycling for an hour through the icy wastes to get there), but still a surprisingly decent session - distinctly better than last week. And as Tyler says, in any case I need to get better at woking hard two days on.

It turns out to be a bit of a pisser that I decided not to learn to ski this winter, and focus exclusively on training for sport climbing instead,  given the sudden arrival of the best snow in a decade. At least the roads are clear enough that I was able to ride my bike to the wall a few times for a total of 5½ hours of Z1.

 biscuit 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Cheers Ash.

Kendal moonboard. But it's back to the winter league there for now. I just picked the ones the app said were easy. It's got the full newest set of holds on.

Not a bad week. Climbed 2 times. Did the easy problems for the Kendal boulder league (and some harder volume ones that didn't need crimping)  and a really good visit to BUK where I got 3 V6's in a session. Two of them aren't V6 (one more like hard V4 and another benchmark V5) but i'm claiming the other one as it was nails and a vertical one - my nemesis. Green on the panel nearest the desk on the side facing the comp wall. Please don't tell me it's a well known soft touch. Did some of the new easy circuits after the boulder as well.

Had a ride to uni so 24 miles done on the bike.

Took the skis for an extended walk on Saturday but then all the snow arrived on Sunday and we managed a fantastic day out up the pistes and down Coire Na Ciste.

Discovered a new exercise for my shoulder(s) and invented another one (probably not but I've never seen it before) and it had an effect after about 3 or 4 days of doing it. I realised how much my left shoulder holds me back when it was painless and feeling strong again. I'd like more of that.

This week:

Shoulders were a bit tweaky after consecutive climbing days. Rest and rehab.

Hard Depot problems

Maybe hard Kendal problems

No biking I don't think

Try and fit a ski in at chill factore

 Powderpuff 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> Powederpuff – We need to know details of the max hangs, this is a thread for training nerds after all

Hi Tyler, your wish shall be granted!

M: ran to the wall and continued to try and build a circuit of problems. Climbed v4 x3 and 1x v5. Then 2 sets of 20 reps on leg raises, sit ups, press ups and 2 sets of 10 reps on leg raises and eccentric wrist curls.

Th: wall again...surprise surprise! Climbed v4 x4 and v5 x2....good to experience some progress in building this circuit.

Sat: .....here goes i hope this lives up to Tyler's expectations!

4 Max hangs on a beastmaker 2000:

i) rh on 45 degree sloper no nestle, Lh drag on smallest slot.could barely hold my weight, hang lasted only 2-3 seconds..dam!

ii)Lh on 45 degree sloper with no nestle, rh drag on smallest slot. 8 seconds...success!

iii)rh on 45 degree sloper with nestle this time, Lh drag on smallest slot.held for 8 seconds ,  correct level of  intensity as it was hard but not so hard i came off!

iiii)Lh on 45 degree sloper with no nestle, rh drag on smallest slot. 8 seconds and a pull up....too easy...poo bags!

At this point I thought "am I done" i put this down to lazyness and tried another hang....ouch! Lh index finger pretty much gave up the ghost and I felt pain, so stopped the session there. Always listen to your body kids! It's so important! Good i find this difficult. 

I feel this portion of the post though detailed makes me seem crazy.  I can only apologise and reassure the reader I am of sound mind.....sort of

 

 

 alexm198 23 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks for doing the stats Tyler, and no problem for replying to your questions. I quite enjoyed thinking about it all. I'd be interested in hearing what the articles you read suggested. And yeah, AATW is a hell of a line! Can't wait to get stuck in. The Howser Towers look incredible.

My week was really good until Sunday, when I was struck down with the dreaded FC lurgy. Been off work since Monday and am only just starting to feel better now. 

Last Week (Base Week 13/30):

M: 90min Z1 stairmaster. 

T: Inadvertent rest. Only realised when I was already kitted up in the gym training room that I'd forgotten my trainers

W: AM 60min Z1 stairmaster (carried over from Tuesday), PM wall session. 50/50 mixed intensity laps from Crimpd on the circuitboard and the miscellaneous bouldering, focusing on steep things.

T: Core maintenance session.

F: AM 60min Z1 stairmaster, PM 30min Z3 stairmaster (w/18kg pack). Brutal.

S: Morning session at the wall. One of those sessions where everything goes well. Warmed up with some sets of pull ups, dips, and deadhangs. Then worked on a variety of problems I'd been making progress on last time. Got 5 things done that I couldn't do before, up to V6. Finished with 50/50 mixed intensity laps from Crimpd on the circuitboard. 

S: Intended to do a 60m Z1 workout but felt the beginnings of lurgy so binned it.

Last week's goals:

[x - did 210 and couldn't do the last 60m workout due to illness] 270min Z1

[?] 30min Z3 hill climb

[? - this should actually have read 'core maintenance'] 1 abbreviated ice/mixed max strength workout

[? - did two!] 1 day climbing-specific training

[?Foam roll every evening

Goals:

This week

  • Shake the lurgy
  • easy aerobic sessions where n is the number of training days missed due to lurgy.
  • Foam roll every evening

STG (March 2019)

  • [3/20] 20x Scottish winter routes (inc. 2 VIIs)
  • 3x WI6 O/S in Dolomites
  • 3x Alpine routes

MTG (July 2019)

  • 3x alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos 
  • Push rock climbing grade, aim for 7a O/S

LTG (End 2019)

  • All Along the Watchtower, North Howser Tower
  • 5x5000m peaks on the Bezengi wall, Caucasus.
 Tom Green 23 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Oh crap! A new Manual of Misery (TM) has been written...

https://www.uphillathlete.com/why-we-wrote-training-for-the-uphill-athlete/

As if the infiltration of FitClub by TFTNA wasn’t enough we now have TFTUA!

More Z1 madness for you Tyler!

 Dandan 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> Dandan – I didn’t realise DIY Club was an actual thing!

Yeah it's on an odd part of the internet where (mostly) men of a certain age get all excited about lumps of timber...

>Are you usually stronger on middle 2 than front 2, I’m the other way around by some margin and assumed that was the same for everyone.

Historically I've always used front 2 preferentially, but once I started training both I did end up stronger on middle 2, yes. I think that is the expected outcome for most people due to the arrangement of tendons.

The week started off well but I decided to ease off towards the end of the week to let my shoulder chill out for a while (which seems to be working). The shoulder issue is only very minor but i'm determined to keep it that way! Then I got a cold over the weekend so the end of the week was a washout too. 
I'm low on training motivation at the moment, I've cancelled my Lattice plan as of mid-February, but i'm not even sure i'll bother doing the last couple of weeks of sessions. I'm really keen to climb, i'm just not so excited about the training side of it so I think some time away just doing what I want will be good.

M: Fingerboard pockets - Middle two still flagging slightly but improving, less burning pain down the tendons this time!

T: Gym - Squat and deadlift felt great, reps at 80kg and 120kg respectively, but the shoulder was tweaky on the pushing exercises so I did a resistance machine analogue of bench press and shoulder press to be safe.
Worked a couple of tough problems on the wall.

W-S: Not a lot of climbing, one trip to Calshot for some routes but I felt weak and feeble which was probably the onset of the cold I now have. Lots of DIY club though.

I'm even tempted to step back from the FitClub for a few months, as there really seems little point logging unstructured climbing sessions. It seems a shame to entertain the thought of quitting because I've posted pretty much every week since FitClub 344 (a little over 5 years!), so it's very much a part of my weekly routine. I'll see how I feel about posting next week.

 guy127917 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Blocfest went ok yes, really enjoyed it despite the enormous crowds. Scored 180/275, (in line with recent comps), came 43rd in senior mens out of 90. I flashed all the problems I completed, and there was only really 1 other I could conceivably have got in one session I think. Next comps are feb 7th and 9th. 

Monday: Morning pressups, pullups, abs. Bouldering I think 

Tuesday: Morning stuff, skipped run as wasn't feeling 100%

Wednesday: Morning stuff, brief routes session

Thursday: Morning stuff only

Friday: Morning stuff, 45 mins run

Saturday: 45 mins hungover run, Blocfest

Sunday: Rest

Generally last week didn't go so well- skipped out on my long run, routes session was cut short because the castle was rammed, and generally didn't feel 100%. That said, I'm aware my 'demotivated' weeks aren't complete trainwrecks so should still be making some progress.

This week is another relatively easy week- I am benchmarking finger strength and will start a new finger board program for 12 weeks from next week. There is also a new wave set at the Castle, so will try and do that at least once every week in that 3 month period and see if I can make some progress. It's supposed to be a more 'progressive' set than previously, so maybe I can do a bit more than usual.

 ianstevens 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> Ianstevens – Belated congrats for Beltane. So nearly a classic day’s bouldering, hopefully you’ll get back to them before you forget any crucial beta.

Cheers. As with all my attempts at 7A/+ boulders at the minute, close but not quite. None of them are especially beta intensive - basically grab a small hold and pull on it. 

Goals

 STGs: 1) Max Hangs on the AA slot to 90kg (currently 85.9kg) by 3/2. 2) Get up any 7A boulder - been struggling with these across the board of late; 3) Complete all planned sessions for weeks up to the start of March (3 climb, 2 hangboard, 2 strength, 2 runs) (3/9) 4) Triple figures of points in the CWIF (in the 70s last year IIRC).

MTG (April 2019): 1) Climb >10 7s (sport) by the end of April. 

LTG (end of summer 2019): Depends on winter progress - either a 7c or an 8a. 7.5 hours for the Snowdon Skyline race (Sept 2019).

Last Week

Mon: 1) Max Hangs, AA slot 6 x 10 sec @ 79.3kg

Tue: 1) Yoga; 2) Run, 11 x hill efforts (8km, 279m)

Weds: 1) Yoga; 2) Repeaters (Beastmaker 7Aish x 2 with various weight on/off); 3) Strength: Shouder Shrugs <+22.5kg, Pull ups <+12.5kg, TRX Single arm rows, Shoulder press <15kg, Bicep curl <20kg, Wrist extensor 10kg, wrist flexor 6.5kg

Thurs: 1) Yoga, 2) AA Max hangs 6 x 10 sec @ 79.8kg

Fri: 1) Yoga

Sat: 1) Yoga; 2) Parkrun, 18:56 again; 3) Repeaters as per Weds; 4) Core: jacknifes, l-sit to reverse plank, TRX press ups, rollouts from the knees, weighted crunch <27.5kg, windscreen wipers

Sun: 1) Yoga; 2) Run/scramble - Siabod, Pen-y-Gyrwd, Glydders, back to capel curig - 21.8km, 1384m - hard work becasue of the snow!

 Ally Smith 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Dandan:

Hi Dan. I'm in a similar place; psyched for the climbing, but zero to little structure to training/ climbing despite a potential trip just around the corner. 

However, I know I need to maintain at least some of the training to keep progressing. A WhatsApp discussion with an ex fit/power clubber this week confirmed my year on year fingerboard progress so I'll stick with those. 

Fit/fat club will hopefully keep me on track even as happily married life with work stress threatens my waist line...

 

 Dandan 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Agreed, I think 5 years of training is a hard habit to break so I imagine what I call unstructured climbing will still have some pseudo-sessions in it that should keep me from dropping fitness at the very least.

For example I enjoy fingerboard sessions and have reps and sets memorised so it will be almost zero hassle for me to do 1 of these a week, I even somehow enjoy certain core sessions that I would throw in now and then.
I'm just looking forward to a lack of "you must do this, this and this", and just going with what I fancy at the time with no pressure. Knowing me that sense of freedom will become worrying pretty quickly and i'll be banging on Lattice's door again!

 Climbthatpitch 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks for doing the stats

The Brecon beacons is lovely for some walking and nice easy stress free days out.

Really good week for me this week climbing. I managed to do my hardest climbs to date and I shouldn't say this but they felt easy. 1 of them I was falling of consistently last year. I'm going to put this down to losing weight as I haven't got stronger as I have probably been lucky to climb once a week until the last 2 weeks.

M - Rest

T - Rest

W - AM - Run, 9.6km, 183 m accent, 06:15 min per km, z1

       PM - Indoor Climbing - Trying as hard as I can on Boulders up to v4

T - PM - Indoor Climbing - Routes up to 6b+

     PM - Run, 10km, 149m accent, 05:22 min per km, z1

F - Rest

S - Run, 10.8km, 241m accent, 05:41 min per km, Most z1 some z3

S - AM - Climbing at Wyndcliff Quarry, Climbed The Sun is Shining Down (6a+), The Toaster Man (6a), Better Pepper Feta (5b), Amused? (6b+) and Shin Gi Tai (6b+)

      PM - Run, 10.8km, 347m accent, 07:38min per km - Os maps said there was a path but most of the time was spent bush whacking. Really wish I was wearing trousers and not shorts

 

Last year I tried Shin Gi Tai and fell off every time and this year it just seamed to flow nicely

 

Lee

 

 

 

 

 Bones [:B 24 Jan 2019

-In reply to Tyler:

>Bones – Great progress on the pull ups and I’m look forward to the promised details (along with a comp report, particularly keen to see if you beat guy). A double whammy of Paris and Bath, you are spoilt.

Hi, thanks for the post this week. I am so spoilt! Paris was a birthday present and was awesome.

Dropped half a kilo - probably from being ill rather than exercise this week. I managed one pull-up session on Tues and two runs and two climbing sessions before coming down with stomach cramps and a cold/fever thing.

Mon: Bouldering - good session did v5 and v5/6 climbs on the back wall

Tues: 6.28km 6.21km/mile run then pull-up improvement session. So, the 41.5 pull-ups mentioned last week were made up of:

- three pull-ups in the warm-up with a bunch of other exercises

- then my max pull-ups = 8

- followed by 8 sets of max reps/2. For three of the sets I only managed 3.5 pull-ups. 

Weds: 7.05km 6.49km/hour run which involved a mile walking home due to stomach cramps. Then a short climbing, lead session at the Castle

Thurs: rest

Fri: rest

Sat: Blokfest!!! - got 177 out of a possible 275 points (joint 30th for women). Can't remember what Guy got but you will be disappointed to hear it was more ;p Really good afternoon with some great problems. There were at least two climbs that were very close for me and two that I think another time I might have flashed, perhaps if I hadn't been ill?....but actually I felt pretty strong on the day. I think with just the teeniest bit more work and more consistent climbing I could get over 200. I know I need to work on my dynamic climbing - I always lose a whole climb (often a gimme for so many others) because I am so uncoordinated! Anyway, all that said I really want to do another comp!!

Sun: rest

This week's goals are to recover and go climbing. I'll do two pull-up sessions too. 

Post edited at 17:30
 planetmarshall 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

A quick summary of what I've been up to and some new goals for 2019 - 

Last time I checked into FitClub was just before I departed for the Himalaya back in November. I'm happy to say that I successfully summited Ama Dablam, at 6715m a new altitude record for me. It was a fairly humbling experience and I have a number of conflicting thoughts regarding the nature of commercial expeditions and the expedition style in which we climbed. Hopefully I'll put this into a blog post or something at some point, especially since I now have lots of desk time (see below).

In January I headed off to Chamonix for a couple of weeks in my quest to become some sort of skier. It was going fairly well but on the third day of the course I fell, I went one way and my skis went another, resulting in a multiple fracture of my left tibia. The results were not pretty. In approximately two months or so I will be permitted onto a bike or into the water, and three months after that I should make a full recovery. I am not yet sure how climbing fits into this.

Currently, being in any position other than with my feet up is extremely painful, I am told this is due to soft tissue damage and should subside in about a week or so. At which point - 

STG

Recovery and monitoring.

MTG (Beginning Feb 2019 onwards)

See what upper body gym work is possible - start with something like the basic Strength and Conditioning plan from TFTNA, bodyweight exercises etc. Do some tests on the Beastmaker.

LTG (June 2019 onwards)

Complete recovery of leg injury
June 2019 - Pabbay trip

FitClub 666

666m of single pitch E2

 guy127917 25 Jan 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

Saw the photo of your leg... looked horrendous. All the best for a quick recovery! Look forward to reading about Ama Dablam, your insta photos showed the pretty side for sure.

 Climbthatpitch 25 Jan 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

Congrats on Ama Dablam. Seen the photos on Instagram looked amazing. 

All the best for a quick recovery with your leg. 

Put up the link for your blog when you write it. I'd love to read it 

 Tom Green 25 Jan 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

Aw mate, bad times. Hope you have an uncomplicated recovery. 

In reply to Dandan and Ally Smith:

I'm sure those of us who have never managed structured training but still hang out here for the moral support will let you both off :p

 

 Bones [:B 25 Jan 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

Congratulations on Ama Dablam, the pictures look amazing. I would be really interested to read your thoughts on the commercial side in your blog.

Hope the leg recovers quickly, it looks incredibly painful! Impressed to see that you are looking to make the most of your recovery time. 

 Ardo 25 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Not hitting 30, but getting 10 minute morning and evening stretches in, so 66%. Will try harder.

Mo:    General walking, 7.9 miles.12 probs, MH, (4*12/180), IDH, (5*4*10:10/60), back to backs lead routes * 2.

Tu:       General walking, 7.6 miles.

We:    General walking, 8.0 miles.

Th:    Commuting walking, 7.5 miles.

Fr:    General walking, 10.0 miles.

Sa:    Urban walking, 8.4 miles.

Su:    General walking, 7.5 miles. 1 trad route, (HS).

Physio on Tuesday: acupuncture, (a first for me, though no miracle cure), continue alignment stretches/exercises and review at appointment next week. Got stood up by climbing partner on Friday and Sunday was wet, so no psyche. A pretty meh week really.

 Ardo 25 Jan 2019
In reply to Dandan:

> For example I enjoy fingerboard sessions and have reps and sets memorised

Wierdo.

 mattrm 26 Jan 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Tyler - if you want to come to the Brecon Beacons, I live right on the edge of the national park, you've an open invite for a walk.  That goes for any fit clubber, just drop me a line!

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 7lbs

M - 4 miles walk

T - cHiiT

W - cHiiT

T - Rest

F - Chopping firewood

S - Rest

S - cHiiT

Quite a good week I guess.  The walk to work includes a train journey in the middle of it, also while there are showers at work, they're grim so I'll give that a miss.

I'm pretty keen on getting up the hill behind my house.  Not a big one, but there's a 500m ascent or so.  About a 6 mile round trip, so that's a good bit of exercise.  Also it's a good wodge of motivation.

Dan/Ally - I've had similar urges to step back from UKCFC a few times.  Psyche for training has been low for various reasons for a few years.  I'm keen on climbing still, but even then that's iffy.  But I've kept on trudging and eventually it pays off a bit.  So I'd recommend keeping on going.  It's easy to loose motivation in Jan/Feb/March, but just keep logging stuff and it'll come back when the weather improves.

SFrancis - I've fancied doing paragliding and gliding for a while now.  I did a bit of PPL training a few years ago and that's super conditions dependant as well.  My dad was a parachutist and that's just the same.  The UK is just a bad place for that sort of thing it seems.  Just take care, don't fly if it's dodgy and keep current. 

planetmarshall - Well done on Ama Dablam.  That's one that's on the list, but I doubt  I'll ever do it.  Sad to hear about the leg.  Hope you're back up and climbing asap.  Would love to read your thoughts on the exped style stuff.

Tyler - do you still need someone to do stats?

 AJM 26 Jan 2019
In reply to mattrm:

> Tyler - do you still need someone to do stats?

I said I could do it; I'm not sure if anyone else did. I'm out tomorrow during the day - it looks sunny - so won't put anything up until the evening, so if you want to do it then you're very welcome!


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