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UKC Fitclub Week 777

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A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_776-7436...

Hi All,

Some thought provoking discussion around periodisation/prioritisation etc on the thread this week. Makes you really appreciate the training resilience of those that operate at the highest levels in sports like heptathlon where there are multiple things to be good at.  Especially when you consider how close to world class their performances are in each individual event too.  Inspiring stuff.  Also, to biscuit’s disliker – feel free to post an opposing viewpoint, we welcome discussion and would genuinely value your input.  This is a place for positivity and psyche though and not for unsubstantiated dislikes so if that’s what you’re here for then jog on.

AJM – good to see the aerobic stuff not being neglected.  Good work on the project, maybe always take the edging shoes just incase?

SidH – did you try Dick Williams while you were at Secret Garden?  I’d be keen for a session on that if you are heading that way again to finish off zaffs.  I’ve heard its fairly steady at 7B+ but needs a few pads and a descent spot.

Alan Little – Glad you are enjoying the skiing, you could even consider it conditioning as I’m sure it must burn through a few calories!

Biscuit – sounds like you’ve earnt your deload week there!  Thanks for your comments on improvements.  I’m going to have a think on what I want to improve at then hit it twice a week rather than trying to cover everything all the time once a week.

Ross Barker – I don’t remember the approach to that high terrace being particularly long, double not very much is still not very much, no? Rigpa is sounding tantalisingly close now.  The longer the siege that greater the victory…

Derek Furze – well done for keeping things ticking over while having to work lots.  Hopefully your next quiet period will coincide with some good weather.

Randy – you are very good at consistent training, well done.  I’m looking forward to seeing this deployed at the rock when the time comes.

Ally Smith – Exciting break through at the Cave, sounds like a game changing beta discovery.  Don’t be downhearted by the front 3 disappointment, its only first session back, you’ll still need to redial that move.

The sheep – at least you got the swims in.  You’ve had some bigger than usual run weeks recently so it’ll all average out.

Tom Green – being wimpy on lead at the mo is almost certainly a good thing as it wont be back up to full strength yet!  Don’t be afraid to be the top rope tough guy!

Liam P – I’ve no idea what Rjukan conditions are like at the moment but hope you have a great trip.  Get used to the nursery lurgies, there’s more where that came from!

Steve Claw – congrats on the max hang progress.  Hope the back injury allows you back out on the rock soon.

SteveJC94 – wow, snow looks amazing. Glad you’re having fun too.  I’ve never known anyone to take a portable finger board on a ski trip – dedication!

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Mon. rest.

Tues. a bit undecided whether to head out to Burbage with the lamps or go to the wall... so i went to Burbage!  Glad I did too as i managed to finish off Zaff Skoczylas Right-hand (f7C) happy days!  Had a play on Velvet Crab after which seemed good but a bit high and insecure to commit to in the dark without a spotter so i dropped off.  Took a look at Monochrome afterwards.  I've tried this a couple of times before but never worked out the beta.  The solution seemed obvious today (I jumped!).  I almost did the whole problem but puntered the easy top out. It felt so secure that I was convinced it would go next go but I never found the right spot for the right heel again before the rain rolled in so it remains one for another day.  It is a brilliant problem though so I'll be happy to go back.

Wed-Sun. Small swedes diarrhoea and vomiting found its way to me and I'm only just starting to feel better.  I've definitely lost some weight.  I didn't eat anything for two days and I feel like muscle has fallen off me but its probably all in my head so we'll see how next week goes.

 Si dH 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB. And commiserations for the guts, sounds bad! No, I didn't try Dick Williams but I would definitely be up for a session on it if I go back and do Zaffs. It depends on me getting there without my son though probably, as he's probably unlikely to want to stick around long enough for a full session on it. I'll let you know if I see an opportunity coming up!

Goals:

- Maintain my physio rehab on finger/shoulder every week and aim to stay uninjured

- Subject to above, maintain a consistent pattern of 2 fingerboard sessions per week until at least the end of March (starting with 3/6/9 protocol but I plan to move to one arm max hangs at some point)

- Go climbing once a week, have fun, try hard and maintain movement skills

- 3 Font 7s in Font at Easter, assuming we go

- 2 Font 7Bs across the year

These goals feel fairly modest but let's see how it goes... I will plan to review them post Font.

Fingerboard rest week this week (aiming for 4 weeks on / 1 off.)

M: rest

T: evening - shoulder/bicep rehab.

W: lunchtime - short board session then shoulder/bicep rehab. Board session was good, I just wanted to do some climbing rather than train per se and wasn't trying anything really hard, but felt good.

T: rest

F: rest

S: morning session at the Hangar combined with son No.1 going to rock club mini. Pretty good session. I did 4 out of the 5 new whites and the last one was total antistyle for me - quite a stiff pull to a thin left hand crimp, then pull through on that with poor feet and nothing for the right hand to enable me to use any sort of opposition or bring the shoulders in to play. I just wasn't strong enough on the crimp. Shoulder/bicep rehab afterwards.

S: rest again I think (had planned to get out with son No.1 if the weather was good, but it isn't, and yesterday's session was quite hard so I've decided to make it more of a proper rest week ahead of getting back on the fingerboard on Tuesday.)

Si

Post edited at 11:00
 Derek Furze 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB and well done with the bouldering results!  

I also found last week's discussion inspiring - really thought-provoking stuff and it does indeed make the standards of anybody achieving 'world class' genuinely humbling.  Biscuit's contribution was (as ever) a helpful perspective amongst the others, so I'd assume any 'dislike' was an accidental thing while someone was eagerly scrolling.  I did nearly respond, but I've been busy and am in danger of becoming a fit club stalker...  There was a thread about physio and I hope he spotted that?

Done okay with running with three spread across the week including one from my hotel mid-week, but didn't manage to visit a wall while away this time.  However, I will try again this week.

Bookended the week with max hangs, push ups, pull ups and stretches.  Kicking myself for not doing stretches at least in my hotel room, but I was absolutely knackered much of the time as I sleep less well while away.

Nearly didn't get anything done yesterday either, but found 30 minutes late in the day before heading out for the weekend debauchery.  Experimented with a pyramid approach to max hangs, so did plus 18.1kg, 19.2kg, 20.3kg, 21.4kg and 22.5kg over five sets.  The last of these felt hard, but I think I need to reset upwards anyway as I've lost 3 kg of bodyweight over the last three weeks.

Lastly, the clinical evidence on fasting (plenty about nowadays) indicates that you don't lose muscle in the short term (indeed most studies show small gains).  The drop in insulin levels drives ketosis and the body fuels itself on its stored fat - at least until you are genuinely starving and stripped of fat, so I reckon you can relax and start targeting 8A now.

Yes - hoping for some reasonable weather in mid-month as will have most of the week to play with at last.  Things then ease at the end of the month, giving me two days a week to get out.

 Randy 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for the stats SSB. I hope i can start the outdoor session soon and see how much of the hangboarding strength will carry over to real rock. At the moment it is still too cold and wet, but i am hoping that end of february it should be possible to get back to my project.

Recap of last week

Mon: Rest

Tues: Fingerboard repeater session, 6 sets of 6x7s,3s with ~ 3:30 min rest between sets: 

  • 20mm egde:  60,4 % of BW average with right hand, 56,9% of BW with left hand
  • Pinch Block with 11,5 kg
  • Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 82% of BW, 4 sets of 20-25s at different angles (170° -45°)

Wed: Rest

Thurs: Fingerboard repeater session, 6 sets of 6x7s,3s with ~ 3:30 min rest between sets: 

  • 20mm egde:  59,2 % of BW average with right hand, 52,4% of BW with left hand
  • Pinch Block with 11,5kg
  • Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 82% of BW, 4 sets of 20-25s at different angles (170° -45°)

Fri: L-Sit (floor) 2x15-20s, Handstands against the wall, 2x10-12 pike push-ups,  2x10-12 fingertips push ups, 15 Lunges, 2-3 pistol squats on each side, 30 normal pushups, 45s V-Sit-Ups

Sat: Fingerboard repeater session, 6 sets of 6x7s,3s with ~ 3:30 min rest between sets: 

  • 20mm egde:  58,5 % of BW average with right hand, 59,5% of BW with left hand
  • Pinch Block with 11,5kg
  • Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 84% of BW, 4 sets of 15-25s at different angles (170° -45°)

Sun: L-Sit (floor) 2x15-20s, Handstands against the wall, 2x12 pike push-ups,  2x10-12 fingertips push ups, 15 Lunges, 3-4 pistol squats on each side, 30 normal pushups, 45s V-Sit-Ups

Felt a little bit sick at the start of the week and thus reduced intensity. Luckily it improved quickly and i felt much at the end of the week. I also made a big step foward with my handstands. Using the wand for assistance to get into the hand stand position, i could hold it once for more than 10s with decent albeit not great form. I am still struggling a little bit to get into a stabil position without any wand assistance as i still tend to slightly overshoot. But with a couple weeks more training i think i could fix that and cross the first of this years goals.

 Liam P 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Cheers SSB. Another boring week of rehabbing injuries and trying not to get new ones.

M

  • Weighted Pull-ups (+12kg) 3x 9

T

  • Heel Rehab
  • First cardio (beyond pram-shunting) since the heel break. 2km on the Rower (8:30) - bit depressing! Started thinking about an early season alpine trip so really need to work on this.

W

  • Weighted Pull-ups (+12kg) 3x 10

T

  • Heel Rehab
  • Core Circuit

S

  • Weighted Pull-ups (+12kg) 3x 11,10,10

Just landed in Oslo so should have a more interesting post next week!

 Ross Barker 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Evening all, cheers for the stats as always SSB. Low volume week from me, two short sessions with minimal hard stuff done. Getting very psyched for next month's Font trip, but I'm getting antsy about my still-not-quite-pukka middle finger. I think I'll dedicate the next 4 weeks to rehabbing and general body conditioning. Still going to try and get outdoors on weekends but the midweek focus will be shifted a bit.

> Ross Barker – I don’t remember the approach to that high terrace being particularly long, double not very much is still not very much, no?

It's not awful, no. 7-8 minutes previously to about 15 now. Can make those really time-strapped sessions a bit shorter though. Also makes the walk of failure back to the car a bit worse I may have not been in a great mood when writing that entry...

> Rigpa is sounding tantalisingly close now.  The longer the siege that greater the victory…

I wouldn't say so to be honest. Doubt it'll be this winter. Still going to give it a good couple more sessions though.

Feel like the finger tweak progress has stagnated a bit - possibly due to my recent negligence with rehab tasks thinking it'll heal itself. It's 95% done but I think I need to rebuild some structure to feel fully confident again.

As Nessy is microcrimp central I'll not be visiting too frequently until I'm happy that my fingers are nice and healthy.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - Cholesterol Traverse (f7A). Big dinner beforehand left me feeling slow and heavy. Snapped off a hold, fortunately there are others and it's not on the hard section. Found some microbeta for the first hard move (index finger on spike!), but linking all 4 hard moves feels living end. Two of them feel 6C on their own, and the holds are very complex and hard to catch correctly. Fingers definitely the weak link at the end of the day on this one.

T - Rest.

F - Rest.

S - 45 minute Moonboard session. Shoulder was weak from previous night's axe throwing, so mostly just a bunch of 6B+ bits. Amazing how hard the board feels after almost 2 months without it!

S - Rest.

Next Week:

M - Gym.

T - Rest.

W - Rest.

T - Something. Might be gym, might be a cheeky grit excursion.

F, S, S - Valentine's weekend. Hot tubbage!

Goals:

Have a bloody good time in Font!

Rehab finger tweak.

A Mon With A Spade.

Rigpa.

Brass Monkeys.

 AlanLittle 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

I do indeed log a guesstimate of the time I spend actually skiing as "cardio" hours. Four this week.

STG: ??
MTG: 1H 2022: onsight 6c+
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    
T:    Wall, Boulderwelt, Bouldering.
W:    Half an hour stretching
T:    Wall, Heaven's Gate. Poor attempt at a bouldering session, feeling fat & weak.
F:    Took the day off work in expectation of more amazing snow conditions in Austria. Not quite as amazing in Alpbach today as in Fieberbrunn last week, but still a good day. Feels like the skiing is starting to come together (unlike the bouldering!)
S:    Wall, Weyarn. Token autobelay endurance "bouldering emphasis but not full linear periodisation" session
S:    Skiing, Alpbach/Wildschonau. In which ski piste grades are about as consistent & reliable as indoor boulder grades, as I discover - and run laps on - probably Austria's second softest "black" run.

 Derek Furze 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Ross Barker:

Don't forget to build the hot tubbage into your programme!  Good for sore muscles...

 AJM 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> AJM – good to see the aerobic stuff not being neglected.  Good work on the project, maybe always take the edging shoes just incase?

Yes, I won’t be making that mistake again! The shoes came with me on Saturday even if they didn’t get used… 

Having not really done much aerobic climbing - just dws really - the last few years and with trad and sport more in mind for this year I’ve got to do sometching to get the aerobic base back in the game. Plus I can do it without aggravating my finger, which continues to be a nagging concern.

Monday - random errand walking plus a lap of the park. Managed to do 2 sets of dips on the bars in the park - 10 then 8 - before it started spitting so I had to head back. Finger feeling pretty angry.

Tuesday - more random errand walking and another lap of the park, but no dips this time. Finger feeling much better.

Wednesday - office day then miniAJM unwell, some sort of ear problem that left him a very unhappy lad. Nothing done.

Thursday - busy day at work with miniAJM stuck round the house. Nothing done.

Friday - nothing done

Saturday - Cuttings with Mike, Si and miniAJM. The wind was getting in a bit, but it wasn’t too bad until mid afternoon when the sun disappeared behind the crag and the cloud! Hoovered up a few easier multi starred things that I hadn’t done before, ticking a few things off the graded list. Hardest thing I did was 6b, plus fell off a 6b+ with numb hands. Usual techy cuttings numbers, nice to be on a rope again and moving on rock. I hadn’t expected at all to be getting on a rope at this point in the year - miniAJM is proving very tolerant - so I’ve just been enjoying getting out. Might start looking at some harder things after another session or so.

Sunday - after far too much time trying to juggle work and childcare as covid slowly worked its way through the house, and with visitors this coming weekend, today has been an admin day of cooking, tidying and cleaning. Hoping to get back on the indoor wall bandwagon this week, hopefully tomorrow, after a few weeks away from that too.

 Steve Claw 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

>congrats on the max hang progress.  Hope the back injury allows you back out on the rock soon

Thanks SSB.

The back is much better, but I'm still being super careful when bend to pick anything up.

Did a max hang assessment this week, as it seemed appropriate.  I have found that I am using a more open grip, with the index finger almost straight.  Does anyone know if this makes any difference? Should I be strict with the half crimp?

M - Play on Global Solutions (7c) but it feels nails for me and really shouldery.  Also played on another project I have at Brean, but its all hard work on rope solo.

T - Indoor Training - Max hang test.  Just about got to +30kg with an "open grip".  I'm 75kg so this is a total of 105kg (140%). I compared this to my friends recent Lattice assessment he is at 155% (we are about the same build and climb about the same grade)

W - Outdoor easy sport mid 6's

T - Rest

F - Worked an Avon project on sharp tiny crimps, got it on TR with bleeding tips. I think it'll go at 7b+ for the tall, 7c for everyone else.

S - Rest

S - Indoor Training - Max Hangs 6*10s +17.5kg felt hard and only got to 8s ish. Was going to do some more training, but everyone seemed to want to use the area for warm down yoga, so went for a short play on the woody.

 SteveJC94 06 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> SteveJC94 – I’ve never known anyone to take a portable finger board on a ski trip – dedication!

Thanks SSB, gotta keep on top of those marginal gains!

Last week was spent skiing some of the best powder I've seen in years but its back to normality this week. Off to see the physio for a follow=up review of my pulley injury on Tuesday and hoping to be given the go ahead to start training again. 

Plan for next week is a couple of sessions on Zwift, a couple of core/antagonist muscle sessions and if the physio gives the go ahead, resume finger strength training

 Ally Smith 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Week 5

Week off work so not much training and far more getting out and doing.

M – Grinshill Dug Out. Managed the FA of Crumble (Post Break) (f7C) since all the good holds fell off. 7B+ ish?  Then got very pumped trying and failing on the last 7C there I haven’t done.

T – Nowt.

W – Tremeirchion. 6A and 6C warm-ups then gradually trying harder on 36 Chambers (f7C). I got pretty close, and a definite improvement on the last time (8 years ago?) I tried it, but close isn’t really enough, is it? I did manage 22 Chambers (f7B)and 36 Flags (f7A) as consolation prizes when my power was fading.

T – Rest. Squiggle-free 8km walk and pub lunch with my wife.

F – Bit of a weird one. I set off with intention of going to Manor crag, but in the car park saw msg’s from my boss chasing slides for Monday, which put me in foul mood and made the rest of the day feel rushed. Rain sealed the deal and I ended up back at the cave. Got shut down by Rocka again, but at least made some micro improvements to beta. Last weeks 7B+ to 7A+ beta was back to 7B+ and I couldn’t repeat it but I did smash out a few well wired 7A-Bs at the end of the session.

S – Early morning Squiggling made me feel tired. 1-arm jug hangs/scap engagements for shoulder rehab. Full bodyweight for 30s Crimpd Bar Core “A”

S – Hour of power. 2x 7B+/C Moonboard problems and very close on a 3rd 7C.

 AlanLittle 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Steve Claw:

> Did a max hang assessment this week, as it seemed appropriate.  I have found that I am using a more open grip, with the index finger almost straight.  Does anyone know if this makes any difference? Should I be strict with the half crimp?

More than 20kg difference in my case, and consequently (and having started to read Beastmaking) I'm making an effort to move towards strict half crimp and reduce that deficit.

 Randy 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Steve Claw:

> Did a max hang assessment this week, as it seemed appropriate.  I have found that I am using a more open grip, with the index finger almost straight.  Does anyone know if this makes any difference? Should I be strict with the half crimp?

My open hand grip is also stronger by about 10%, so i don't think you are a raw exception

Regarding the other questions, i am not sure if there is a general consensus on that. The lattice guys always recommend training and testing with half crimp, but there are also other assessments that don't specify a grip type. Hence, it would probably make sense to test both and see if you can decrease the spread between the two.

 Randy 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Some thought provoking discussion around periodisation/prioritisation etc on the thread this week. Makes you really appreciate the training resilience of those that operate at the highest levels in sports like heptathlon where there are multiple things to be good at.  Especially when you consider how close to world class their performances are in each individual event too.  Inspiring stuff.  Also, to biscuit’s disliker – feel free to post an opposing viewpoint, we welcome discussion and would genuinely value your input.  This is a place for positivity and psyche though and not for unsubstantiated dislikes so if that’s what you’re here for then jog on.

I did not have time to read the book that was suggested by biscuit yet, but i did a short internet research about it. Generally, i think biscuit's and my opinion are not that far away from each other as it looks on the first glance. As far as i understood it, the prioritasion approach is just a little bit less strict than a full periodisation approach and keeps some maintenance work in the plan to have a higher average performance level but with a lower peak.

I really liked the idea that a plan is only working if the athlete is likely to follow it. What is the best approach probably depends a lot on the invidual climber and the anwers to the following questions:

  • Do you want to perform all year or do you have clear peak times and offseason (e.g. climbing trip, decent condition on the project, etc.)?
  • How much freedom do you want to have in your plan?
  • How much can and how much do you want to invest in it?

Looking back at my last year, i am probably do a mixture of periodisation and prioritisation. When conditions or personal life duties don't allow for outdoor sessions, i am usually use a strict periodisation approach. But when conditions on rock are good it is sometimes more a prioritised approach. E.g. last summer my focus was on improving max strength and i did two max hangboard session during the weekend. On the weekend i was mostly lead climbing outdoors on power endurance routes because i was more keen on that.

 Si dH 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Randy:

> My open hand grip is also stronger by about 10%, so i don't think you are a raw exception

> Regarding the other questions, i am not sure if there is a general consensus on that. The lattice guys always recommend training and testing with half crimp, but there are also other assessments that don't specify a grip type. Hence, it would probably make sense to test both and see if you can decrease the spread between the two.

For a long time (pre Lattice) the received wisdom seemed to be that half crimp was the best grip to train the most because gains carried over at least partially to open hand and to full crimp. However it was also commonly believed to be important to vary things too. Then Lattice realised as they were growing that they really needed everyone to fix on the same grip type when doing testing on their edge, so they could make their data better. They pushed half crimp pretty hard for a while. As lots of people were using their testing results to set loads for training sessions, there was more incentive to just train with half crimp. Lattice are a much broader organisation now than they were then, and probably have all the half crimp lattice edge data they want anyway. More recently I've seen them promoting training with multiple grip types.

Anecdotally I think pocket strength has little crossover with half crimp, but n=1 etc.

Post edited at 13:21
 AlanLittle 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Si dH:

Apart from producing standardised benchmark results, half crimp seems to me to be the least mechanically efficient grip - longest lever arm - and therefore (a) the most training bang for the buck per kilogram-second hung, but also therefore (b) the last thing anybody should want to use whilst actually climbing.

 Si dH 07 Feb 2022
In reply to AlanLittle:

>  (b) the last thing anybody should want to use whilst actually climbing.

This is fundamentally dependent on your hand shape though. On the vast majority of crimps (ie things with an edge and less than two joints deep) I am stronger half crimping than open handing, but the number of holds I am physically able to wrap my thumb over and full crimp is tiny. It does happen occasionally, but probably no more than once a year do I find a hold outside on which I am able to, and get benefit from, a full crimp. My thumb is too short and/or my hand is just the wrong shape.

Post edited at 17:46
 AlanLittle 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Si dH:

You're probably right. I'm a natural open-hander with short thumbs, which has probably been good for my pulley longevity, but problematic when I do occasionally need to really bear down on something small & sharp.

 biscuit 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB.

Yes it took me sometime to feel recovered and then i felt tired again at the weekend.

Just 3 climbing sessions

W - BUK - flashed V6 and got a V7 after a few goes. It was a vert one and grim, it was great.

F - Lancaster wall - boulder league. Flashed the ones I think I could flash. Will come back for the others next time. 

S - routes at Kendal - second day on for the first time in a while. 6a, 6b, 6c+, failed on an Emma Twyford 7a, 6c, tired, went home.

Wednesday and Friday sessions were long, without me realising it. I'm guessing that's a sign of my increased fitness but it caught up with me on Saturday.

Back to a full week this week and build up to the trip on March 19th. Just under 6 weeks to go.

 the sheep 07 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Hope you are feeling better.

Covid once again has invaded the sheep pen so not going to be reporting much 

All is fine and no one in the house reporting anything more than your normal cold type symptoms 

 Tom Green 08 Feb 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Hi Everyone. Thanks, as always, for the top statting, SSB.

I think top-rope/shunt will be the default for a while, but with the angle of Jaz it's just as safe (and more practical) to just crack on with the lead. 

Week 5:

An ok week, but didn't quite manage all sessions.

M: Rest. Pretty worked from yesterday.

T: Rest -enforced due to v long work day, but probably no bad thing as still a bit knackered from Sun.

W: Max Hangs. Pull-ups. Prehab -shoulders.

T: Core. Prehab -elbows and shoulders. Leg rehab.

F: Max Hangs. Pull-ups. Prehab -shoulders.

S: Core. Leg rehab. Prehab -shoulders.

S: Short hill walk. Cryotherapy -aka, a quick swim in the pools above aira force. Sooo cold!

Week 6:

5 x Prehab -including new leg rehab plan from Process Physiotherapy.

2 x Core 

3 x Max Hangs & Pull-ups

2 x Conditioning

2 x longer walks and maybe a climbing sesh.

STG -end March:

Run my usual running loop.

Max Hangs: 90kg total.

Pull-ups: 95kg total.

Some Scottish winter routes -no longer fussy what... just anything white on tools!

2022 Arbitrary training goals:

Roll over of last year's running targets: 35km vert and 1000km.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel (7a) The Jim Grin (7a))

ALL of my local must-do list: 0/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 0/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham, Almscliff, Caley, Slipstones (Going to solidify this to 3+ days at each -a bit more measurable!)

At least two days from big mountain list: 0/2.

Late summer/autumn alpine trip.

 Derek Furze 08 Feb 2022
In reply to Tom Green:

Intrigued to know what is on the  'local must-do list' and where are the 'why haven't I climbed here' destinations?

Other than that, some good consistency with the plan!

 Tom Green 08 Feb 2022
In reply to Derek Furze:


I posted the full lists at the beginning of the year, but thought people would get bored of me including them in long-form every week!

My local must-do list: Fallen Arch (HVS 5a) The Prow (E1 5a) Stewker (E1 5c) First of Many (none 5b) Borboletta (none 5c) The Lion King (HVS 5c)Hara-Kiri (HVS 5a) Top Gun (HVS 5a) No Prisoners (none 6b) Wombat (E1 5b)Sphinx Nose Traverse (S 4a) The Night Watch (VS 4b) Otter Hill Eliminate (E1 5a) Countdown (HVS 5a) Gauche (VD)

My 'why haven't I climbed here' list: Lundy, Kilt Rock, Neist, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Shelterstone (in summer), Ben Nevis (in summer), Scafell, Napes, Hen Cloud, Kilnsey, Range West, Grinah Stones (shh!).

My 'I should climb more at this crag' list: Carreg y Barcud, Stennis Head, Gogarth, Cloggy, Cromlech, Welsh Slate, Malham, Ilkley.

The climbs in the original post have the logbook links, but I don’t know how to copy them across and keep the link, so you can find them here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_772-7426...

 Derek Furze 08 Feb 2022
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom - it did occur to me that you might have posted the details, but only after I had sent the query.  One of the perils of aging!

By way of support, I went to Lundy in 1998, having said I wasn't really interested.  I absolutely loved it.  It is top of my 'why haven't I been back here?' list (alongside Scafell), though I think I probably know why really.  Brilliant and quite unique place, though Harvest mites are a challenge if they are in season.

Yes to everything on your 'climb more' list, though I can't think I've got much to do at Ilkley these days.  Malham should be on there - I have got plenty to do there - but I would have to go back on Slender Loris, which as it is the scene of my biggest ever fall, will take some fitness and a good deal of sloper training first!

I don't know any of your local list, so clearly some esoteric delights!

 Tom Green 08 Feb 2022
In reply to Derek Furze:

Good tip about the harvest mites… I bloody hate harvest mites so if I do head to Lundy I need to time it early in summer. Or late.

Slender Loris sounds like a good grudge match! 

Yep… that local list is probably pretty niche for anyone outside the moors! Although The Nightwatch is touted as one of the best single pitch VS routes in England according to the cognoscenti!!


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