UKC FitClub Week 790
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week’s thread:
Great week this week and some pretty hard climbing getting done. I think Tyler gets the Golden Star this week for cracking the Snowdon Half. Great effort!
Sheep: Oh no! Have you had it looked at? I slipped a disk a few years ago and sympathise with the agony!
Randy: I had a similar Covid experience - thought I was over the worst then it came back with vengeance. Fingers crossed you’re finally feeling better and can get back to training.
Ross Barker: Two big days bouldering there. Ramp Up down and straight on to City Life! Weather isn’t looking too shabby so hopefully you got out this weekend.
AJM: Was meaning to respond to you earlier but forgot! Shoulders back and down, try to rotate your hands outwards (as if you’re trying to bend the bar) to keep everything locked in. Only lower until you can keep good form as I’ve twinged my thoracic in the past by going too low too quickly. I’m no physio but would suggest against stretching a muscle tweak? Sounds like your body saying it needs time to recover. Was the 6C ‘World’s Best Mono’? I’m still scared of putting my finger in it!
Alan: The urge to drop an inuendo after reading about your exertions on Mt Wank is intense…but I have resisted. 590 vert meters per hour is a good effort! Thought of any short-term climbing targets yet?
Biscuit: Bit of a turbulent week - hope the family are ok. Good effort on the Sunday sport session. Looking strong and ready for some big trad routes!
SSB: Well done on Electrical Storm - that landing looks pretty grim! How’s the skin after the offwidth debauchery?
Tyler: Another…GET IN! I genuinely think it’s true that the biggest barriers are the ones we place in our mind. You can often surprise yourself by just having a go. I think entering the race has served its purpose as motivation. However…it would be sad not to draw a line under it and get it done!
Steve Claw: Ultimately the goal is to enjoy your climbing so if time is short then it’s a wise decision. ‘Bouldery’ and ‘slopey edges’ aren’t two descriptives I like to see in a guidebook! Great effort though. 7c Project sounds epic. Where is it?
Derek Furze: Quality day at South Stack. Can’t remember if I climbed Pel or Rap but that whole wall is amazing. The ‘three day party’ is giving me hangover-induced anxiety just reading about it!
Tom Green: No apology required. Glad you’re back out enjoying your climbing. Great effort on Elder Crack. You two have gone full debauchery recently! Good to see you got on Arc en Ciel as it’s been on your goal list for a while. Any plans for a send go?
Ally: Great to see you’re back on top-form. 2x 7c in a week! As FitClub Pinch Master, what do you think of the new Lattice Pinch Block?
SteveJC94: Wow. That Saturday sounds amazing! Few more routes on the Sunday/Monday so made the most of the weekend.
Planet Marshall: Think you posted on last weeks FitClub by mistake. I grew up not far from Pex but never went. Heard it’s quite a humbling venue but great for Malc Smith style fingers! Keelhaul looks amazing and unlikely at that grade. One for the project list?
Have a good week FitClubbers!
Cheers Liam. Life must be easier now you are back at the keyboard. Are we still planning to swap over at the first Sunday in June?
Training still fairly low key with two sessions of max hangs, pull ups and push ups only. Still sticking with plus 17 kg, which is at least 15 kg below my best, but really trying to keep it steady. Pull ups 5x5 and push ups 5 X10.
Work meant only one day out, but had a decent session at Wilton with Central Route and Dawn amongst some others. Glad to do Central Route as it is distinctly uphill - a decent test of runner placing, half-rests and pressing on.
Yes please Derek!
Back on the training wagon.
Thanks Liam though it looks like I might have peaked too soon and my climbing is worse than it’s ever been!
M: Returned to Tramstation crag and tried to warm up on the soft 7a as the draws were in, dropped it first go got it next go. Did a couple of 6b/+ which weren’t too bad but hopefully that’s it for that crag (sorry Tom!)!
W: Thought I’d investigate the local gym and was delighted to see the climbing wall still there only to be told it’s being removed, pity as although it’s not great I recall the traversing wall being useful. Did some weights (bicep curls, OH press, bench and then two deadlifts before feeling like I was tweaking a hamstring). 6km fast on treadmill
S: Pen Trwyn, couple of TR warm ups them had a couple of goes to investigate White Hopes, a long way to go but got the moves. Then went to Hornby Crags and did 4 routes at 6b/+ in the sun, some of which were good.
S: Went for a last longish run before next week’s event, blew up after 10km which was disappointing, seems I won’t beat my time from last week and there’s a danger I won’t get near it so think I will take it easy on the day to ensure a finish.
> Quick 90mins at the wall. Aimless junk miles really but first time back in ages so didn’t mind. Climbed up to 6c
I wouldn’t worry about the junk miles, it’ll be better than nothing and I’m pretty sceptical of it anyway.
Thanks Liam. A low motivation week in general, but did get one decent wall session and a bike ride in so better than nothing.
STG: (Still) need to start thinking about climbing plans/targets.
MTG: <insert 2022 climbing goal here>
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658
T: Was just getting ready to ride my bike to the wall when an apocalyptic hailstorm rolled in. Stayed at home.
W: Managed to avoid today's hailstorm en route to the new bouldering wall, where I resumed my campaign to build my 2022 plastic bouldering base by ticking the whole of "level 3". Hmm. About a dozen to go, but they include a horrendous volume shuffling traverse - in the kids' room no less! - on which I made a whopping half a move of progress today. I may have to rule the kids' room out of scope.
S: Rainy weekend - 3 hours afternoon mtb in the woods after the rain stopped. Less muddy than expected.
Feeling a little guilty that I just looked at the local weather forecast and immediately abandoned the idea of going climbing this weekend, and then heard from friends that weather & conditions up in the north end of the Frankenjura were good. Otoh, treating climbing - a hobby - as something I have some kind of duty to do whether I feel like it or not probably isn't a good idea either. And having put in a lot of travel over the ski season, spending a little bit of time not dashing about hectically every weekend might be just what I need.
I have to admit that I have no time to train at the moment and what I do get I am spending outside enjoying the rock in the good weather. Rather than withdrawing from posting, I am just going to post what I call "Fun Club" until I get back on the training.
I am currently trying to spend 2 sessions a week trying something hard (7c ish)
M - nothing
T - nothing
W - Sport - 7a+, 6b, then made all the moves on Bladder Ladder (7b) before running out of time. Its lost a vital hold on the crux, so goes at about 7b+/7c on slab, where the skill of levitation is required to get upward momentum on holds the size of nail heads.
T - Sport - easy stuff in the 6's after work
F - Nothing
S - TRS session in Avon. 2nd visit on Defining Limits (E6 6c), found new beta and got it clean, which considering the warm conditions was great!. Followed by Pongo Sid Chilli (E3 6a) to exit at the top. Both quality routes of different styles, will be back to lead them.
S - Nothing
Thankfully it is not a slipped disc
unfortunately I have had previous issues with my core. A few years ago I went into have my appendix out and woke up from supposedly keyhole surgery to find I had been completely opened up from chest to waste and a significant part of my colon removed too
Unfortunately not long after the operation my daughter in her enthusiasm for having birthday presents jumped on my stomach and when I doubled over in pain my discs went
However you take the positives and as that retired me from playing rugby my wife got me into running and then I found I really love Trail running and triathlons so all is good
I had always enjoyed cycling and swimming anyway
Not back to 100%, but finally feeling better and i did a Covid test on wednesday which was negative.
This week was still rest from monday till friday, but i a managed to go outside to Weissenstein on saturday. Just did a bunch of easy routes in the 4s and 5s region. Power, Endurance, Technic and skin was as expected gone, but it felt good to be outside and moving again after being locked up inside my flat for 14 days.
If hope my recovery continues next week and that i can back to some easy training, though i definately needs to take it slow and listen carefully to my body.
Evening all, solid statting Liam.
> Ross Barker: Two big days bouldering there. Ramp Up down and straight on to City Life!
Cheers, figured it's probably a good course of development, having done the 7B, and now 7B+ through the big roof, why not try the 7C as well? Then once that's done I'll move onto the 7C+ though that's definitely cruxier!
> Weather isn’t looking too shabby so hopefully you got out this weekend.
Yep, managed a cracking morning at Craig Peniel, and I think I've enough of that steep walk-in for a little while!
I didn't manage my "finger bulletproofing" sessions this week, went to the gym but it was like climbing in a sauna. Grim!
M - Rest. Weigh-in at 77.1kg, that 200g saving must by why I'm on form lately
T - Moonboard Power Hour. Only pottering on 6B+, and cut it short to 45 minutes as it was just too bloody warm in the gym. The hangboard felt like a slip'n'slide!
W - Rest.
F - Rest.
S - Rest.
S - Spigoglys (f7B+). First time trying the first few moves, took a little working out to find the crucial heel-toe cam. A few goes later and there I was at the top! Later walked up Craig Y Hyrddod to top-rope Silence of the rams (f7B). Couldn't find my rope protector so used my bag, which was then promptly tore up under the weighted rope. Oops! Need to get that sorted...
M - Rest.
T - Might finish off Wacky (f7A)?
W - Rest.
T - Rest.
F - Finger bulletproofing. Honest, I will!
S, S - A little moorland grit action, perhaps?
> AJM: Was meaning to respond to you earlier but forgot! Shoulders back and down, try to rotate your hands outwards (as if you’re trying to bend the bar) to keep everything locked in. Only lower until you can keep good form as I’ve twinged my thoracic in the past by going too low too quickly. I’m no physio but would suggest against stretching a muscle tweak? Sounds like your body saying it needs time to recover. Was the 6C ‘World’s Best Mono’? I’m still scared of putting my finger in it!
Cheers Liam. I’ll give those cues a go next time I do it. Yes it was, although I am not sure if I even used the mono in the end, there’s an ok hold to the left and I just bumped right hand up a bunch of crimps and edges until I hit something ok. I might have used it as an intermediate, I can’t remember in the end.
Got some more things ticked outdoors this week, but it was family days where it’s hard to get that much time actually climbing and certainly hard to get time to really try anything hard, so moderate stuff. It’s obviously good to be out on ropes at all but I’m hoping I might be able to do a half day or evening of actual focused climbing time one weekday in the next few weeks. Indoor/home training still a bit patchy, busy week at work and definitely lacking energy in the evenings.
Monday - mega family faff day at winspit. Went to west quarry and ticked the 3 ** routes amidst general faff (6a+, 6b, 6b+). MiniAJM enjoyed messing about on the rope as a swing too which is a good thing, first time he has been persuaded into his harness or onto a rope and he professed enthusiasm for more. Pint and pie in the Square afterwards in the sunshine.
Tuesday - miniAJM off school, but we were both feeling pretty lethargic. Lots of grumbling from the little one about tired legs, I think we wore him out as I nearly had a mutiny on my hands when I suggested we were going to walk to the bus stop to go out rather than go in the car! We mooched about, went out for lunch, and then did a trip to the wall where I did a bunch more things and fell off some harder stuff.
Wed - Fri - nothing. Busy at work (my Tuesday “off work” was mostly a time shifting exercise where I did the same amount of work but over the weekend and on the Tuesday and Wednesday nights), pretty tired (I definitely crashed pretty hard Thursday night), just couldn’t make the space. I need to try to find a way to fit things into the morning or lunchtime really, because the energy is lacking by the end of the day.
Saturday - another mega family faff day at Winspit. Set up a good rope swing for miniAJM off the lip of Lunacy Booth which he thoroughly enjoyed. Managed to do a 5 and then a 6c (second go, I went down a blind alley on the onsight), both **.
Sunday - did some RDL rehab, not 100% sure I’ve got it right still but I could definitely feel it doing something to my right hamstring so it must be close enough. Also scraped my way through 100 pushups in a variety of sets, I am so rubbish at pushing.
Whilst I’ve been getting out a bunch, I’ve not yet had much time to put a lot of time into stuff, so I’ve been working on a secondary goal of improving my ticking of the graded list, which is basically the ** and *** routes. So far, I think I’ve done: 2 fr7s, 11 fr6s, 4 fr4/5s. I’m a bit rubbish in particular at doing variety of easy routes especially when projecting as I tend to choose a decent warmup and just use that each time. A variety of styles is probably good for me, so the short punchy blocky Swanage quarry routes have probably been good for that.
Thanks Liam, some kind soul has done a bit of block tessellation on the landing so it's not too bad now. It's pretty low too, we had 3 pads and were fine.
Not much to report this week as yet another sickness bug came home from nursery. We've all had our head in the toilet at some point this week but in the plus side my fingers got the long awaited propper deload!
Mon-Fri nothing. Mon was a planned rest day, Tues and Wed I was ill and off work, Thurs and Fri I could have gone out but wasn't psyched. Given my usual high levels of psych I figured that probably meant I should rest, so I did.
Sat. Headed down to chee tor and redpointed Spanned Out Ballet (7c). Got it 3rd tie in with all the beta going from my partner who had been on it a couple of days before. Almost got the 7b+ next door too but ran out of beans on my redpoint go. Will finish it off if the cornice is still wet next time I can get out but am happy having done it in 3 if not.
Sun. My planned run became a walk when my run partner hurt his knee but it was nice to be out. Redmires to high Neb and back.
Cheers Liam, felt good to dust off the sea cliff cobwebs with a great first day!
A decent week all things considered:
Tuesday - rest day.
Varied ARC session (3 x 8min ARC intervals).
Max hangs, 3 finger drag on a 20mm edge. 10 wooden board problems, from 6B+ to 6C+.
Had planned a rest day but the sun was too tempting so opted for a short 30k spin on the bike.
Plan for next week:
M - More hangboarding and bouldering
T - Rest day
W - Routes endurance
T - Rest day
F - Hangboard repeaters
S - Rest day
S - Wooden board session
Keep forgetting to report on runs - not doing loads, but am doing some again. 5.5 km on local trails twice this week.
Also had an interesting forced dietary experiment in that had two grandchildren staying all weekend, so chose to switch back to a diet that included the usual carbs and mealtimes. Apart from gaining 1.5kg, the striking effect was feeling hungry, despite eating more often! Hope that a swift return to our normal approach will do the trick.
Hi all. Thanks for statting, Liam.
Slightly mediocre week this week... haven't been very disciplined on the training side of things, and also had a few little niggles which interfered with my plans. Hopefully get back on Arc en Ciel this week whilst the beta's still fresh!
M: Leg rehab. Elbow and shoulder prehab.
T: Missed session due to work then lack of psych!
W: Hill walk. Was supposed to be climbing but the forecast turned out to be more optimistic than realistic, so got some mileage and height gain in with a heavy bag. Annoyingly, somehow tweaked my left calf, which seemed to worsen through the week, shutting down my running plans.
T: Trad at Shepherds. I've not been to Shepherds for ages, due to avoiding the crowds, but a weekday with poor weather on the mountain crags was a great opportunity to get back there. Unashamedly ticked through the easier end of the Rockfax Top50s!
F: Fingerboard and strength sesh.
S: Leg rehab. Elbow and shoulder prehab.
S: Bouldering at Captain Cooks. Made progress on First of Many (none 5b) but bottled the crux moves -still a bit tentative about falling on to pads.
M: Run. Prehab.
W: FB, strength, core, prehab.
T: Run. Leg rehab. Prehab.
F: Maybe back on Arc en Ciel?
S: Hill walk.
STG -end June:
Arc en ciel.
Ultra distance hill run.
Eight of my big mountain day list (at least two on consecutive days). (1/8)
Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees).
MTG -end Sept:
Two big alpine routes.
2022 Arbitrary training goals:
Roll over of last year's running targets: 35km vert and 1000km.
Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.
Max Hangs: 95kg.
Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.
2022 Climbing goals:
7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink)
ALL of my local must-do list: 0/15
Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 0/5
Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8
Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 2/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.
(For lists see FitClub 772)
Late summer/autumn alpine trip
> M: Returned to Tramstation crag and tried to warm up on the soft 7a as the draws were in, dropped it first go got it next go. Did a couple of 6b/+ which weren’t too bad but hopefully that’s it for that crag (sorry Tom!)!
No worries! It's on the way to Anglesey so I'll get it done at some point!
> W: Thought I’d investigate the local gym and was delighted to see the climbing wall still there only to be told it’s being removed,
Sounds like an opportunity for buying a pre-built home wall?!?
Quality routes! Both absolute gems. If you liked those, then you should get on Ann too. I need to get back to the Lancs grit soon -it's so good, I'm getting all wistful just thinking about it!
Yes - I have done most things at Wilton back in the late 70's, but enjoying going back to them again. Amazing how dirty some of the areas away from the Pros and Chimney Buttress are though - Virgin's Dilemma looked unclimbable and we used to consider that a decent route. I've never done Wipe Out or Max so I will add them to the target list. Egerton on Friday
> Planet Marshall: Think you posted on last weeks FitClub by mistake.
D'oh - didn't even notice that.
> Keelhaul looks amazing and unlikely at that grade. One for the project list?
I don't think it will take much projecting, just a bit of commitment is required I think.
Last day at Pembroke. A bit damp after the previous day's rain but went with an optimistic approach. Abbed into Ultravixens (E1 5b) which you can walk into at low tide but otherwise is only accessible by abseil. Found the bottom (which looked to be the crux) to be sopping wet so prussicked back out again. Note to self, bring proper rope ascending gear, or at least a tibloc, if the likelihood of having to do this is anything other than zero. Improvising using slings is a massive PITA.
Salvaged the trip with Wishful Thinking (E1 5b) after some unexpected sunshine in the early afternoon coincided with low tide. Great fun, absurd and unlikely terrain at the grade (but fair).
Giving the skin a bit of a break so went to Depot Manchester and did laps on the woody circuit board. Not being set by the routesetters the grading is all over the place but managed to get a good workout.
Went to Cratcliffe Tor with the intent of getting on Fern Hill (E2 5c), placed some initial gear and tried the first move which I just found to be absolutely nails! Retreated and I think I'll save this one till I have a few more E2s in the bag. Guide says "Lower end of the grade". Bullshit!
Got on Tom Thumb (E2 5c) instead which I really enjoyed but then fluffed the final moves on the overhang. A bit frustrated by that but fairly pleased that I at least committed to the move - a combination of poor footwork and not engaging my core meant I didn't hold the swing and fell out of the crack.
Last Week's Goals
Return to training
Next Week's goals
> Note to self, bring proper rope ascending gear, or at least a tibloc, if the likelihood of having to do this is anything other than zero. Improvising using slings is a massive PITA.
Indeed. My one attempt to ascend an 8mm rope using dyneema slings was a very limited success.
M - Iffy weather and a team of 3 meant a sport climbing day. We went to Trow Gill which is in a right state with fallen trees everywhere. I was hoping for pimp with a limp, but the upside down dead tree dangling over the top (held in place by another fallen over dead tree) meant it wasn't do able.
T - Elbow and hip flexor exercises
W - Stretch, nothing else
T - Stretch and gym and 30 min jog. i bought some wrist straps as holding the bar was a limiting factor on my deadlifting if I wanted to do higher rep ranges. This felt much better. But also meant I could do more reps with more weight. Because it no felt so secure I decided to do romanian deadlifts as well. 4 sets of 8 reps at 100kgs. This was a mistake. The DOMS lasted until Sunday. Felt really good though. I upped my benching too and started some calf work as they have been cramping when heel hooking recently
F - Bad weather meant a visit to the wall. I did unexpectedly lose foot tension a couple of times, which I put down to my posterior chain being toasted the day before. Otherwise I had a really good bouldering session. No grades as it was a comp set. I know the holds and the wall and the setters and I looked at a couple and thought there was no way I could do them and then did them. That's always a good feeling.
S - Rest - had a jog
S - Trad day in the Duddon Crag Band Led Alexander's Crag Time Banned (E1 5a) (which climbed a lot better than it looked) and seconded Bandstand groove (E1 5b), led Reckless Abandon (E2 5b) (which climbed exactly how it looked and is worth a star I think), seconded Head band (E1 5b) (again a nice route) and tried to lead Crown Jewel (E2 5c). It has a glued on hold that is used for the crux gear, hands and the only foot hold through the crux. It wobbled when i slung it so I backed off. It is also used by another E2 on the same buttress. Dodgy! It was Severe climbing to a fabricated crux and then more Severe climbing. So I don't feel like I missed much.
A shame as i wanted to get a 5c route in but it will have to wait. I felt like I was climbing Ok and confidently so my trad head is still going along as I want it to.
3 week to Reiff so hope to get out another 4 or 5 times tradding between now and then.
> I think Tyler gets the Golden Star this week for cracking the Snowdon Half.
Sorry, didn’t see this earlier. This is a bit embarrassing, I didn’t actually do the race last week, it’s this Sunday. I did do the full course so in that respect I did crack it and I’ll take the applause as this week I’m falling apart (hip and blister issues) so might end up limping home.
Fern Hill is an odd one. When I first did it, I thought it was low in the grade. I've done it since and failed on it as well in between times! That first move doesn't get any easier! Boot Hill has got similar characteristics - great climbing, but with a move that always seems somehow incomprehensible.