UKC

UKC FitClub Week 786

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 Liam P 10 Apr 2022

UKC FitClub Week 786

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_785-74599...

Morning FitClubbers,

Covid frustrates many but looks like lots of people made the most of good conditions. Running, swimming, skiing, winter climbing, hard boulders, sport, trad, and Lumberjack Cosplay…another week in FitClub.

Stats:

Derek Furze: I’ll give you the March Goal Tick Derek. Good effort. Seems like your steady approach has worked with the bursitis. I’ve also got the same plan, Sport to get the fitness back, Trad to get the fear back.

Randy: Strong commitment projecting a route 2.5 hours away! Especially with today’s fuel prices. Plus a plateau-busting pinch sesh. Good week. Enjoy the deload.

Ally: Oh no! Hopefully it hasn’t hit you too hard. 2BW Deadlift is a good target and a basic 5x5 plan should get you there pretty quickly if you’re already at 168%. The only thing I find with heavy deadlifts is they completely fry your CNS so I schedule them on their own or as late as possible/before bed.

Alan: More progress with the Ski-Touring and good to see the Lockdown Box Step-Ups were worth it!

AJM: Nice start on the Campus Board. I’m also a bit weary of getting back on it with the dodgy finger but I do miss it. The Wishlist looks epic! Too far out my paygrade but let me know if you want a belay.

Steve Claw: Solid 4 sessions and a bout of trad-induced hot-aches. No excuses required now the weather is improving. Time to cash in the winter training gains.

Biscuit: Well done on the Kendal problem - 30+ goes is a solid commitment and going strong after 3 hours is fit! Sunday sounds delightfully sketchy!

SidH: The Font holiday sounds well timed. A week of climbing, croissants and wine should bring the psyche back. Hopefully the Covid hasn’t caused too many issues.

SSB: Happy days. Looks slopey! Couple of dry days this week so fingers crossed for Anston.

Tyler: Exactly. It’s all about the Gongs! Should be a good sociable event too. Also, having recently shattered a heel whilst solo-bouldering I’d say that’s a very healthy fear to have. Now if we’re talking Lumberjack Cosplay, I think you need to fully commit and get the red-check Fur Trapper Hat.

SteveJC94: Nice. 2x E2s and 3x Training Sessions. Not surprised you felt wiped. Fingers crossed for Tremadog.

Ross Barker: Sounds like PE to me. Maybe try Biscuit’s ‘20 problems in 20 minutes’ session and see if that helps? Could also recreate a similar length, but easier, problem indoors and do laps. Slowly increase the difficulty when it starts getting too easy. 

The Sheep: If driving aggravates it then being Dad Taxi isn’t ideal. Time for an automatic? Again, you win the FitClubconsistency award.

Ger_the_gog: Glad to hear there are no serious implications. Now Covid is out the way, time for training!

Tom Green: Good effort. Looks like being a captive audience has paid off with the upper-body strength gains. Snow + Climbing = Winter Climb Tick - it’s also one more Scottish route than I got this season. Spring ice routes are looking amazing at the minute…this is where you make everyone green and say you climbed Point5/Orion/Hadrians….

JCK: A short session is always better than none!

I’m away visiting family so writing this on my phone. Let me know if there are any bloopers and have a good week!

 Ross Barker 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Happy Sunday everyone, nice job on the he stats, Liam!

> Ross Barker: Sounds like PE to me. Maybe try Biscuit’s ‘20 problems in 20 minutes’ session and see if that helps?

I tried "6 in 6" as per the Crimpd app this week and it felt about the right intensity. I'm not sure I could manage 20, I'd be absolutely boxed!

> Could also recreate a similar length, but easier, problem indoors and do laps. Slowly increase the difficulty when it starts getting too easy. 

I would be tempted to try this, though I don't have access to a spray wall. The problem density at my local gym is greater than big modern gyms, so I might be able to do something with that. At least I won't be hogging a single problem for 6 minutes at a time!

Training tribulations aside, another low-volume week, but topped off with my best day of outdoor climbing to date! Normally I'd be dead pleased to do just one 7B in a session, so doing that before lunch and then doing another few 7s after was really pleasing to see.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Gym. First time in over a month, was decent. Tried hard on a couple of things then tried to do "6 in 6" for AnCap. Gave up half way through the third set as skin was becoming a major limiter! Dodgy finger gave no grief, even on small holds.

W - Rest.

T - Rest.

F - Rest.

S - Rest. 77.3kg weigh-in.

S - Big Burbage day out! First hit was at Higgar Tor, managed Piss (f7B) reasonably quickly after finding a leg sequence to gain the high foot. Trudged on over to Burbage North through hail. Rehearsed the top half of Monochrome (f7B), then a short rest and got it from the ground - got a nasty pebble slice on a fingertip on the topout though! Then Boyager (f7A+), was trying the left toehook beta but couldn't get it to stick, so committed to an outrageous cut-loose, which just about worked. Phew, what a day! Some good distance covered from parking at Higgar.

Next Week:

M - Rest

T - Gym. Will try to make extended problems if the setting allows, otherwise maybe 6 in 6 again.

W - Rest.

T - Rest.

F , S, S, M - Hopefully a little extended weekend trip somewhere, weather looks reasonable!

Goals:

Rehab finger.

The Ramp Up.

 SteveJC94 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Thanks for the stats as ever Liam. Quite a good week for me:

M - Rest day.

T - Endurance session (7:3 hangboard repeaters @40% of max. 10 sets of 6 reps. Followed by 1 minute on 1 minute off on the circuit board).

W - Good news from the Physio. The pulley is fully healed now and any pain I've got is just tissue sensitivity which will fade with time. Finally given the go ahead to start board training again, albeit starting gradually and working up to max over a few weeks.

T - Celebrated the previous days news with a warm-up boulder pyramid, followed by "Board 10" Crimpd session, starting at font 6A and working up 6C.

F - Rest Day.

S - A bit cold for mountain trad so took a punt on the Roaches and took a friend on their first day outdoor climbing. Managed to get three routes in before the fingers went numb between bouts of hail and snow! Right Route Right (VS 4c)The Bulger (VS 4c) and War Wound (E1 6a). Hopefully I've not put him off outdoor climbing with a promise that it doesn't always snow! 

S - 80k zone 2 bike ride with 1,200m of ascent. Bonked spectacularly with 20k to go and was revitalised by a boost from a kit kat and a can of coke at a petrol station.

Plan for next week:

M - Rest day.

T - Endurance session on the circuit board followed by some strength and conditioning

W - Routes endurance session

T - Rest day. 

F - Weather permitting hoping to get out on the grit, possibly working some projects at Lawrencefield.

S/S - the folks are up visiting for the weekend so unlikely to get much climbing in. 

Hope everyone manages to get some good climbing in over the bank holiday! 

Post edited at 15:57
 Randy 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

> Strong commitment projecting a route 2.5 hours away! Especially with today’s fuel prices. Plus a plateau-busting pinch sesh. Good week. Enjoy the deload.

It is definately easier when you have a partner who also has a long term project at the same crag

Recap of last week:

Monday-Friday: Rest, or to be more precise, worked 70h and slept 5-6h on average so no sure how much i really rested

Saturday: Short Fingerboard session. Did not bring any chalk with me which is hindsight was a mistake. Nevertheless, the session was ok as a maintenance session. Also did some one-arm lockoffs and finished the session with 15 pullups with somewhat decent.

Sunday: Checked out a local climbing gym. The gym was small and old school. Basically one spray wall with some defined boulders but no grades. Of course i did the stupid westener mistake and went at 1pm after having a chilled morning and a huge breakfast buffee. Gym had no AC, temperature was 37-40° and i felt that i lost 2-3kg over the 2 hour session. Nevertheless, was good to get some exercise in.

 Steve Claw 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Thanks Liam.  Just noted that the club is 16 strong, so good effort for following what everyone is doing!

I've had another week that is quiet on the training, but when I do go for it, I'm feeling stronger, so hopefully the extra rest is working. I do need to get a routine back.

Thurs - Put a top rope on a new route that I had failed to do first go on lead the previous week, after pulling a key hold off and cutting my palm. Original estimate was 6c+, worked out to be more like 7b

Fri - Indoor session - All auto-belay as new set.  2hr power endurance session, repeating routes around 7a with short rests, keeping a moderate pump going.

 AJM 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

> AJM: Nice start on the Campus Board. I’m also a bit weary of getting back on it with the dodgy finger but I do miss it. The Wishlist looks epic! Too far out my paygrade but let me know if you want a belay.

Cheers Liam, will do. Had a few good short sessions in the week, then travelling to Font this weekend.

This week has been the saga of the ferry…..

1. Tuesday - had an email informing me that the ferry from Poole cancelled. After much flapping, we rebooked on a ferry from Portsmouth, arriving later. Far less convenient, but we thought that we could still just let the kids sleep in the car at the far end and maybe get to font by say midnight body clock time.

2. Wednesday - a further update to say they’ve cancelled the ferry from Portsmouth and put us on a new one. After a moment of panic, it became obvious that this was just a really unhelpful way of telling us they had swapped for a bigger ship

3. Friday - had a further update saying that due to technical problems our sailing had been delayed. ETA in Caen now 11pm, Font significantly after midnight. Also received an update that one of the restaurants was going to be closed onboard.

4a. Saturday - the morning of travel, a further update pushing departure back another hour.

4b. Saturday - when we arrived at the terminal, we discovered another hour and a half delay! So in the end we arrived in Caen at 1am French time, out of the port just after 2am, font by 530!

So over the course of the week my journey downgraded from a ferry that leaves 10 minutes from my house, arriving in France mid afternoon in time to reach Font comfortably by bedtime, to a ferry over an hour from home that was nearly overnight in the end.

Monday - nothing. Long day, worked much of the evening.

Tuesday - short evening wall session. A few new things - a problem which felt quite “outdoors” - lots of sidepulls and half blocked footholds and so on, a few things on the comp wall, plus ended trying a comp wall problem where I got to use at least three knee bars in the (successful) pursuit of glory (or the long shuffling upwards of a left kneebar from place to place, to describe differently!). Good short session.

Wednesday - short wall session with miniAJM. A good session. I did some campusing, and managed to hit several times and tickle several times 1-4-6 on the jugs and the big rungs. My best ever effort, when I was probably lighter than now, has been 1-4-6 on medium rungs, so not a terrible outcome to be covering the distance on bigger holds. I also tried some wide blob campusing which I think would probably be good for me and had one go (to avoid risking finger on anything more) at 1-3-5 on the small rungs, which I could never do on my home campus board. I didn’t manage it, but it felt far closer than my best home efforts which is promising. I also made a little progress on an actual boulder project I had been trying for a while.

Thursday - rest

Friday - usual manic last day at work trying to tidy everything off. Then time to start packing!

Saturday - travelling, see above

Sunday - a slow start as befitted not getting to bed until 6am (plus an hour sleep in the car whilst my wife drove). After a lazy morning around the gite, we ventured to a very busy Elephant in the afternoon where I did some problems to about 6A.

 biscuit 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Thanks Liam.

The problem was a run and jump so 30 goes tired my legs out not my arms!

I’m feeling back in the swing of things now. A good week.

M Half hour jog in the morning.

Squats to bench due to sore knee 3 x 10 @70 kgs 

Lock offs 3 x 10 seconds each side with assistance

TRX sweeps - 3 x 10

Wrist/elbow weights

15 move circuit on the woody. 1:1 - done 10 times. Need to introduce a harder rep or two next time.

Lancaster Wall bouldering - OK session, but feeling a bit lacking in top end power still. 

Circuits - 6c x 2 with 5 mins rest then did 6b x5 continuously.

Bicep/tricep weights 

Foot on Campus - without boring everyone with numbers i smashed my previous measure from 6 weeks ago. First rep was 1.40 this time 2.35. Happy with that.

Lock offs - as Monday, Arnold press @ 6kgs 3 x 10 and wrist/elbow weights 

Deadlift 5x5 @ 110kgs

Benchpress 5x5 @ 55kgs

Got on the body composition machine at the gym. 14% fatness and 71kgs.

Built a 12ft trampoline. That was hard work. Especially when i realised it wasn’t aligned and had to take all the springs off and put them back on. Then it got worse as I’d over compensated and needed to take them off and put them on again. My arms and back were wrecked.

Supposed to be trad - ended up at Malham. Not been for around 8 years i figured out. Had a TR on consenting and then on Something Stupid. That felt do-able so i had a lead and fell off the last move. I then started thinking rather than just climbing and never got back to that high point again despite 4 more tries. 

Optimistic me says that’s quite good i nearly got it second go. Pessimistic me says i really should have got it and that would have been a nice quick tick. 

Still avoiding trad with a trip to St Bees. Lovely day. Did a couple of V5’s and a V5/6. Still failed to do the hardest V4 in the world that I’ve now been attempting for 12 years.

Beer and a night in a pub for the first time since COVID.

S Well needed rest day today

Next week more of the same leading into the Easter weekend.

I feel like things are going in the right direction. I just need to get some mileage in and get to where I feel like I’m moving well on rock and placing gear well and I think I’ll have a good trad season.

Post edited at 19:34
In reply to Liam P:

Thanks Liam, the weather turned out to be worse than forecast so didn't get as much done this week as id hoped.

Mon+tues. Rest.

Wed. Shrugs, Max hangs (+29kgs), 5x5 pull ups, 3x10 press ups.

Thurs. Equivalent of 25km on the bike in the rollers.

Fri. Dodged the showers with a first trip to  Grinlow Hill (Solomon's Temple) about 20 or so problems including a couple of 7As and a 7A+.

Sat. Travel to Spain. 

Sun. Lots of walking around and exploring, very excited kids needed wearing out. Had hoped to hit the local DWS venue but ran out of time in the end. Should squeeze some climbing in next week. 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Mega Sunday! Well done. 

 AlanLittle 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Thanks Liam. The run of excellent late season snow conditions continues to delay the start of my climbing season - back on the normal piste planks today.

A slightly frustrating week health-wise. Very slight cough/headache/sore throat during the week. Not enough to keep me off work, but enough to make me feel guilty about going to a climbing wall. So I didn't. 

STG: One more skiing weekend, going high up on a glacier at Easter. Need to start thinking about climbing plans/targets after that. MTG: 1H 2022: onsight 6c+
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    rest
T:    Had planned to go to a bouldering wall, but had a bit of a cough so stayed at home and consoled myself with the good old lockdown staple instead: beastmaker, working on my crimp form as recommended by Ned in his book.
W:    
T:    Once again, beastmaking at home instead of going to a bouldering wall
F:  
S:    Decided to stop over in Innsbruck for the night in order to avoid the pain of an alpine start for tomorrow's forecast of excellent snow conditions. Was feeling better, so spent the evening bouldering at the huge & amazing climbing wall - although I must say it's mainly the lead sections, indoor & out, that are huge and amazing. The bouldering less so, although still ok

S:     Skiing. Stubai Glacier. Immaculate snow conditions as forecast, powder on the piste, although also still very poor visibility in the morning. I get easily disoriented in whiteout conditions - already did back when I was a somewhat competent snowboarder, all the more so now I'm a beginner again on skis - so that made the first couple of runs stressful. Was going great once I could see though.

 Tyler 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

> Now if we’re talking Lumberjack Cosplay, I think you need to fully commit and get the red-check Fur Trapper Hat.

I think I’m better suited the Monty Python version though concerned about the health and safety aspects!

M: Deserved rest

T: Plas Y Brenin, got there late so only had 90 mins, managed 4200 points not my highest score but was pleased as I climbed pretty continuously. 
W: Lazy, should have gone for run

T: PyB - shocking performance only managed 2100 points and literally could not hang on the big holds by the end presumably/hopefully the result of 2 sessions in three days.

F: Lazy, should have gone for run

S: Pen Trwyn with Tim and Toby. Dismal performance hoped down to the cold and board sessions. Moved around to Tram Station for a bit of warmth and came as close as possible in sighting a 7a although I expect it was on the soft side….

S: Thawed but not recover from yesterday but Toby wanted to go to Tremadog despite my protestations. I’d successfully avoided Falcon (E1 5b) for 30 years and it turns out to have been a wise decision! I was only seconding I’m firmly in the ‘E2 camp for Falcon’ but only because there isn’t an ‘E3 for Falcon’ camp. We then did Scratch Arete (HVS 5a) which I’m sure I’ve done before but none of it seemed familiar.  Unfortunately by this point my toes and ankle were too sore to enjoy the amazing top slab.

Hopefully my deteriorating climbing this week is the result of doubling what I have been doing, so I might do less and step up the running again. If anyone is looking for a climbing partner in N Wales next Friday, Saturday or Sunday then so am I. 

 Tyler 10 Apr 2022
In reply to Tyler:

Sorry for the typo Tom!

 Ross Barker 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Just noticed I accidentally said it was Sunday when it was actually Saturday - too late to edit now, not that it matters in the long run!

 Ally Smith 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Thanks for stat'ing  

Predictably little done this week. Just about on the mend now. Taking it easy to try and lessen the chance of prolonged illness.

Week 14

M – Felt wiped out again.

T – Nothing. Lost my sense of smell. Bonus for nappy changing but otherwise a negative

W – Also nothing.  Still strongly LFT +ve.

T – First day attempting to work. 

F – Felt a bit knackered again. 45min snooze in the middle of the working day!

S – Starting to feel a bit better. Snot monster but not super fatigued. Full day of car shopping powered by multiple cups of dealership coffee.

S – LFT -ve :-D 30min of gardening and 25min of board (basically a warm-up).

 Tom Green 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Hi Clubbers. Thanks for a strong stat game, Liam.

Yes, relatively happy with the recent strength gains. Now starting an endurance phase, although need to work out a bit of a plan to maintain strength whilst building the ability to hang on for ever. I may be asking for Fit Club tips on this! 

I didn't manage to get up to Scotland at the end of the week, so am officially drawing a line under it for the season!

Week 14:

M: Rest. Embarrassingly tired after a couple of fairly low key mountain days!

T: Fingerboard. First repeater session of new training phase. Need to fine tune the resistance.

W: Elbow and Shoulder Prehab.

T: Nowt.

F: Trail run. 11km, 385m vert, 6:55/km. 

S: Tyler kindly let me gatecrash his LPT sesh. Really enjoyed getting on stuff that I'd normally not consider... makes me realise that although these routes are too hard, they aren't too hard by too much. Need more days of pulling hard, with no real agenda or pressure. Also, need to go back for the 7a that Tyler nearly onsighted... it felt very doable, so I need to get on it before it gets downgraded!

S: Fairly chilled walk. 8 miles (probably count as junk miles!)

Week 15:

Two runs.

One hill walk.

Fingerboard x2

Strength sesh x2

Core x2

Climb x 2

STG -end June:

Arc en ciel.

Ultra distance hill run. 

Eight of my big mountain day list (at least two on consecutive days). (0/8)

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees).

MTG -end Sept:

Two big alpine routes.

2022 Arbitrary training goals:

Roll over of last year's running targets: 35km vert and 1000km.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink)

ALL of my local must-do list: 0/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 0/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 0/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

Late summer/autumn alpine trip.

 Tom Green 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Tyler:

No worries! For some reason, my phone is constantly autocorrecting Tom to Tim, so there are probably people out there who think it's my real name!

 Tom Green 11 Apr 2022
In reply to SteveJC94:

> Managed to get three routes in before the fingers went numb between bouts of hail and snow! Right Route Right (VS 4c)The Bulger (VS 4c) and War Wound (E1 6a). Hopefully I've not put him off outdoor climbing with a promise that it doesn't always snow! 

It won't be the snow that puts him off... it'll be The Bulger (VS 4c) ;-p

 Tom Green 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Ross Barker:

Great week! Nice one!

 Derek Furze 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Excellent statting again Liam!  It does look like number are growing a bit, so well done for keeping on top of it while also under the weather.

Weather has been rubbish while I have had time off, so not very productive on the climbing front.  A shame, as I want to get plenty of sport mileage in and consolidate before hitting the trad.  However, I have done two, fairly light sessions of max hangs - the first for ages - and no sign of any problem with my elbow.  I just did three sets of plus 17kg, which is a fair bit lower that I was doing, but I want to reintroduce fingerboard work carefully.  I will aim at the same this week, but some pulls ups and push ups into the mix as well.

Weight target going along brilliantly.  Now down to 66kg and think I will probably hit 65kg by Easter!  This is 8 - 8.5kg lighter that I was at Christmas (and double my original target), so very pleased, especially as the change of eating pattern has been a breeze.  Might have to consider how to stop losing weight soon!  Max hangs felt hard, but I don't think this was anything other than getting back to training.

 the sheep 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

> The Sheep: If driving aggravates it then being Dad Taxi isn’t ideal. Time for an automatic? Again, you win the FitClubconsistency award.

Cheers Liam, sadly finances wont spring to a new car just to ease stress on my knee 

Relatively light week gone by;

Monday, felt crap, couldn't get warm so no exercise

Tuesday, 1km swim 

Wednesday, 1km swim and 9k trail run

Thursday, 1km swim and stretch class

Friday, 1km swim

Saturday, taxi duty 

Sunday, spent the day shifting flags and gravel and laying turf. Pretty good full body workout!!

 Derek Furze 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Tom Green:

Good insights re getting on stuff - I agree that it can be surprising how things are possible when it seems like they shouldn’t be.  Mind you, the reverse happens well!

i think we need a route name for any soft 7a at Pen Trwyn!  I could do with a target over there 

 Tom Green 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Derek Furze:

Haha! Get it on the soft touch list!

Although it actually isn’t at Pen Trwyn, but over the other side of the Orme at Tramstation. Tyler described the quality as ‘Objectively not bad’ so I’ll leave you to decide whether it’s worth going for a look based on that! ;-p 

 sulkysaluki 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Hi fit club,

I used to post on here quite a bit on another account, pleased to still see some familiar faces. After a few years of life getting in the way, I’ve drifted quite a bit from where I’d like to be fitness wise. Hitting the big 4-0 has focused the mind somewhat, basically it’s not getting any easier from this point, I think the mantra for the next decade needs to be start moving and don’t ever stop. That, and start doing strength training because you need to use it or lose it. With that in mind I’m keen to rejoin for a bit of mutual support and accountability.

(FWIW the new account isn’t particularly to be incognito but because it’s a bit easier to start with a blank slate and not constantly be reminded of past glories (relatively speaking) every time I log in.)

Season Goals

  • General - ditch lockdown pounds: <70kg (75kg currently)
  • Climbing - Onsight 7a in Kaly September (6c currently), re-RP a 7a (probably Portland) by end of May
  • Cycling - Get Alps fit - FTP 3.7 (eg 260W @ 70kg, 3.0 currently), get back to regular (ie monthly) 100km rides, at least one century, actually ride with the club a bit

Key Priorities

After putting on a stone during lockdown, on top of the gradually accumulated stone from the previous few years, and goals which almost all involve going against gravity, shifting the weight and keeping it off I think is the key priority. 

Like the weight management, core and flexibility are going to benefit both, and will need to be addressed at some point.

At the moment aiming for either 2/3 or 3/2 of climbing/cycling sessions per week. I’m keen to start making the actual content of those sessions more structured (most likely 2x fingerboard and possibly a deadlifty-type gym session, and I might get back on the TrainerRoad plan for the bike) but over-committing and making things really complicated and then finding that life has gotten in the way and I haven't done any of it, are things that my personality struggles with, so I think just establishing habits and routines that are sustainable when I'm not hyperfocusing on them is probably the priority for at least the next four weeks. With any luck that'll deliver results before thinking about making thing more structured.

Weekly accountability

  • 5x exercise sessions per week, cycling or climbing
Post edited at 15:24
 Derek Furze 11 Apr 2022
In reply to sulkysaluki:

Welcome (back)!  Much of what you have written touched a chord with me. Having lost 7.5 kg I can speak to that at least!  I wanted to shift some and thought about ketp as a short sharp method.  However, it is basically so easy that I won’t go back now.  I don’t strictly measure carbs (you are meant to go below 50g of carbs to guarantee nutritional ketosis, but I do avoid any processed carbs and minimise starchy stuff like potatoes in the week.  I combine this with an eight hour eating window, which feels surprisingly normal, as this also encourages ketosis.  The result is that my body fat is falling off and I am leaner than at any stage in the last twenty years.  Our approach sort of sticks with the pattern at weekends, but we are always out partying so usually have more carbs in wine form!

 sulkysaluki 11 Apr 2022
In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks. Nice one, it's encouraging to hear other people succeeding. The keto is a good shout, it seems to work really well for people - I've given it a lot of thought in the past but it's fuelling the cycling that nixes it for me. Plus I think I enjoy carbs a bit too much. But I'm definitely keen to shift toward fuelling more with protein in general and keeping the carbs for fuelling/refuelling specific workouts.

 JCK 12 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Thanks for the stats Liam!

Life is getting in the way quite a lot at the moment, hoping to get back to some sort of routine in the next few weeks.

Otherwise an ok week for me, trying out a couple of bouldering walls to find one for regular sessions.

Mon: Rest

Tue: 1,5 h bouldering session, not strong enough to do a lot of the problems but still enjoyable.

Wed: Some antagonist training, core and lower back.

Thu: Another 1.5 h bouldering wall. Pretty much rinse and repeat of Tuesday.

Fri-Sun: Rest

This week probably won’t see any climbing but hopefully a decent Easter weekend in the hills!

Have a good week all!

 planetmarshall 16 Apr 2022
In reply to Liam P:

Totally lost track of time over the past couple of weeks as things with work have been a bit in flux.

Last Week

Didn't get much done but a couple of highlights,

Next Week

Moving onto the endurance phase of Neil's plan.

  • Work on some gritstone traverses while the weather is good. Basically anything from the Rfx guide with the "forearm" symbol...
  • 20km trail running
  • 1 Strength and Conditioning session

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