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using auto beley as training tool

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 llanberis36 26 Jan 2014
Am just starting out on a training programme, and need to get a lot of routes in, building stamina mainly. Not always having people to climb with, has anyone got experience of using auto belays to train on, seems like it might work, doing multiple ascents etc, although need to be climbing in the 7s, and unsure if auto belays at walls are at those grades
In reply to llanberis36:

Bouldering is the only solo climbing you'll need to get better at climbing. I just use auto belays to warm up on.
OP llanberis36 26 Jan 2014
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Was thinking that although training for routes not bouldering, and need to be spending at least 10 minutes climbing, and unsure if can do that bouldering. I boulder a lot as well for power etc
In reply to llanberis36:

where you based?
OP llanberis36 26 Jan 2014
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

peak, and go to awsome stockport and sheffield, foundry and others
In reply to llanberis36:

from what i remember, there are some good long circuits at stockport that would be ideal for building stamina on. but you are right, there's no real substitute for doing steep routes but boulder traverse/circuits are as near as damn it.
 winhill 26 Jan 2014
In reply to llanberis36:

That's a high grade for building stamina but if the routes are too low, start maybe missing out a few holds to make it more difficult.

In the peak area Awesome walls sheffield has a single (soft) 7a route across all 3 autobelays, nottingham has a single english tech 6a on its.

I guess you could down climb occasionally to vary things a bit.

Leading would be better because it slows you down more etc.

 TonyB 26 Jan 2014
In reply to llanberis36:

Long circuits on the boulder wall are probably the ticket. The wall I climb at in Loughborough has several of about 30-40 moves. I link multiple laps of circuits to train stamina. 4 laps gives me nearly 10 mins of climbing and 10 mins on 10 mins off works really well for stamina. There is a similar wall at the Climbing Works.

I haven't used autobelays very much but I don't think you'll find very steep routes on them.
OP llanberis36 26 Jan 2014
In reply to winhill:

thanks thats useful advice
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