UKC

Odd one this as I can't actually work it out. I started doing a bit of campusing recently. Not something I've done very much but I noticed I get vastly different result depending on what arm I lead with. At first I could not do 1-4-6 with either arm. Quickly tho I could do this leading with my left arm but not right. Figured it would come but it it didn't. 1-4-6 came fairly routine leading with left and today I did 1-4-7 leading with left. But still can not do 1-4-6 the other way. I can just about touch the rung but not enough to grab it. 

I'm actually starting to think the bottom arm is the key one? I.e it's my left that's noticeably weaker. Or I cannot quite get the technique right the other way as I'm right handed? 

It's strangely hard to get a feeling for which arm is holding me back

I'm weaker if I go right arm to 4, then left arm to 6/7 than the other way round.

For me, the weakness appears to be in the shoulder and wrist of my right arm as I lock it off  rather than in the left arm that is throwing for 6/7.

This is also evident for me in one arm hangs where my right arm needs more assistance than my left.

I did a finger strength test last year and they were fairly similar. If I recall correctly  I needed 3.3kg of assistance for right and 4.4kg for left for a 7 second 1 armed hang on a pretty big fingerboard edge. But this is pure finger strength so not sure it tells me much. This feels like a  power issue. As soon as I latch 4 with with my right hand something  just doesn't feel right. 

I am right handed but i can do a one armer with my left weaker? arm and not my right. 

Someone said it's cos you rest your left arm more, not holding cups of tea, writing, texting etc. so it becomes stronger.

Neither. 

It's the head! 

When I said it was maybe because I was right handed it was more to do with coordination. There is  defo a technique to campusing, well at least campusing without getting injured? I doubt this is the issue as I've not noticed this climbing but it might be there. I shall have to try on one of those symmetrical boards maybe. 

I'm right handed but one-armers always felt easier with my left hand. Not that much in it though really. I'm guessing the arm that isn't responsible for fine motor control may be a little less constrained in developing more straight-line strength.

Presumably your left is weaker as you can’t lock off sufficiently to reach as far as you want with the right. 

Other way round. I can do 1-4-7 leading with left to 4. But yeah that was my original thought, the leading arm does most of the work so right is way weaker. But odd since it has stronger fingers. Which may explain why I have never noticed this when climbing. Not sure how I go about correcting it since I can't really overdo campusing and doing more sets with my right hand leading sounds like a recipe for injury.  Might just do some lock off training with my right arm on a bar.

Ha, one armers with both arms I actually did a one armer once when i injured my knee and could not climb. I said I'll just do this on a bar until I do it. It took about 6 weeks. And it had only the very feintest of French starts. I was proud enough though I probably would have been disqualified by the one armer police. It was enough for me though and I never tried it again. Pretty sure it was my right arm that is now showing to be weak! 

That's nothing. To this day I can still do multiple one-armers with both arms ...

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... at the same time

Sorry, that’s what I should have said. I’m no expert and don’t to campusing because (1) I’m too lazy and (2) I don’t want to get injured but as you say, lock off training seems like a safer way to improve. I don’t tend to do campus moves when rock climbing but big moves when dry tooling can be similar and it’s the lock off strength that I tend to lack there. 

Blimey I've only got two, I suppose it's very useful though.

Get yourself one of these, they a good laugh, especially at a climbing club meet, where competition can sometimes get out of hand.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01421AUBQ/ref=asc_df_B01421AUBQ58665140/?tag=g...

Might Amazon prime that and then send it straight back

You can get them cheaper elsewhere, not sure of the accuracy, but have tested the repeatability and it's pretty good.

Like I said, if you're in a club, or maybe have a lot of mates, they're bring out the competitive side of people and it's very funny.

At our last AGM we charged £1 for two goes, one go on each hand, winner got a £5, a ladies and gents competition, the rest went to charity. We got £30+ for the RM  out of 22 people.

If you're ever in the Oxford area, you can have a squeeze on mine if you like.

I think its normal to have one stronger than the other.  I can lock well with the left but struggle on long moves where I have to lock the right.

do bench presses to failure. that will tell you.

My right arm is apparently weaker than my left - which bemuses me as I am right handed and had assumed that as I used that more it would be stronger...?

Oh no. I've still got harrowing memories of being taken to a gym by a mate who lifted weights. I was so weak I couldn't lift the bar with any weights on it, so he made me just lift the bar. Like some sort of gym moron. I never stepped foot in one again until recently whilst in the states. That went the same way. They had a basketball court so figured I'd play for a bit. I'm 5'5, obviously crap at basketball. In rolls alot of people who ask me to play with them as I'm occupieing half the court. I agree. They were absolutely not crap at basketball! To be fair they were incredibly polite and didn't laugh at me. And even occasionally passed the ball to me. Was funny to be fair.