UKC

Hello, what do people attach their axe lanyards to when soloing?  I've always worn a harness for harder routes but am thinking I should probably make up a simple webbing waist belt with a loop at the front to simplify things.  Ideally it should be strong and load-bearing just in case.  Anyone else made something like this or adapted a sling/daisychain?

I either take my ultra light alpine harness (especially if I expect to abseil) or, on steep neve or easy mixed stuff, I am happy to go without leashes, since I figure that if I drop a tool I can probably get down with only one. The only times I've ever dropped a tool so far have been a couple of times when trying to fiddle gear in, which is not an issue when soloing.

I'm interested to hear other people's responses though.

get a really light alpine harness, some around 150g!

Pre stretchy lanyards , I always attached my lanyards to rucksack shoulder straps or a sling worn as a bandolier.

Forgot to add .

Mick Fowler was once saved by his rucksack attached lanyards to get a sneeky rest on an FA in glencoe.

However, have a plan. I was almost caught out once , using the no rucksack, bandolier method. Pumped stupid on an overhanging crack , one axe was hooked above my head , but I had no strength left to pull up or unhook it. I tried to slip out of the bandolier to fall off but it caught up on my helmet. 

Very nasty hanging from the helmet strap  until I managed to free it off .

I now link the bandolier to my harness.

Even if soloing , a harness is always nice to wear to keep all your clothes snug especially if there is an updraft.

Thanks for the suggestions.  I have a fairly light alpine harness which I use regularly, but just feels a bit overkill for easier stuff.  I would ditch the lanyards altogether, but they certainly give a feel of security and I also stop to take photos so it's nice to feel connected when letting go completely.  As for the Mick Fowler rest on rucksack straps - I remember reading that!

Are your axe lanyards load bearing?

Generally if I am soloing I use leashes, it adds some security. If you lose your footing, get smashed in the face by a piece of ice or some other thing happens that causes you to let go of your axe you are still attached. At best a belay in each hand. At worst some faff you can take off. 

A friend of mine made me some load bearing tethers so I might use those in future although there would still be more impact on the axe if you slipped than there would be using a leash. 

I don't solo things where leashless would give any great advantage though. If you like going for it leashes might not be so great. 

I still use a 50cm sling worn as a bandolier, I find it stops the occasional clusterf*ck of lanyards and ropes tangling up.

Perhaps see if you can get hold of a cheap/old harness and cut the leg loops off to make a belt and leave the belay loop on for an attachment point? 

Hi Roger, I have the Grivel Double Spring lanyards - axe tethers only, but certainly beefy enough to give a sense of security should a foot slip. 

I actually climbed with my old leashes (Charlet Saf locks) on Friday and found them a step backwards in terms of freedom of movement, especially when reaching into my pocket for the camera - I had to reposition the axe closer to my body or let it dangle completely.  Nathan, I like your idea!

I thought it was West Central Gully? A pretty grim rest all the same... 

A sling knotted in the middle then over the shoulders like a makeshift chest harness. Can be retied as a harness if needed too.

Pretty sure you are right.