/ Best ice climbing technique book

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George1924 02 Dec 2019

Dear Forum

I'm looking to get into ice climbing this winter and have booked a trip to Rjukan. I want to read up a bit about some of the techniques and tips that would be advisable before going.

I'm a keen rock climber and have done some alpine routes so I need less instruction on building anchors or rope work techniques. I am more interested in a book which describes how best to tell the conditions of the ice apart.

Can anyone recommend any good books so I can learn this stuff before getting there?

Thanks for your help

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GarethSL 02 Dec 2019
In reply to George1924:

Art of ice climbing - good overview of everything, plus some updated "science" about ice falls. 

Will Gadds ice and mixed climbing - pretty much covers all the bases and is enough of a start point for anyone. 

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TobyA 02 Dec 2019
In reply to George1924:

> I am more interested in a book which describes how best to tell the conditions of the ice apart.

Apart from some very basic stuff, that is what you really only get through experience - and getting experience is really hard for most of us in the UK. Even for Highlanders, its still super rare to get the big water ice features that you get in Norway for example. 

Ice differs hugely with temperature, with aspect, and lots of other things. Good luck - getting out there and giving it a go is the only way really!

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Bwox 02 Dec 2019
In reply to GarethSL:

>  Art of ice climbing - good overview of everything, plus some updated "science" about ice falls. 

>  Will Gadds ice and mixed climbing - pretty much covers all the bases and is enough of a start point for anyone.

Ditto to both of these - though possibly Will Gadd's book is no longer in print.

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climber34neil 02 Dec 2019
In reply to George1924:

Perhaps watch Jeff Lowe's waterfall ice film(s) on you tube

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asteclaru 02 Dec 2019
In reply to Bwox:

> Ditto to both of these - though possibly Will Gadd's book is no longer in print.

I got my copy from Amazon earlier this year. Currently shown as 'Back in stock on 10th of December'

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George1924 04 Dec 2019
In reply to GarethSL:

I have come across Will Gadds book but it's good to know people have confidence in it. I haven't heard of Art of ice climbing so I'll look into that as well. Thanks to everyone who responded, this has been really helpful.

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Big Lee 04 Dec 2019
In reply to George1924:

If it's ice climbing technique that you're primarily interested in then take a look at the animated gif that's currently at the top of Will Gadd's Instagram page. It's taken me years to get this sequence of movement right and without doubt the major factor towards me feeling far more confident on sustained, steep ice. On WI3/4 it's easy to get into bad habits, such as placing both axes high and then bumping the feet up, but those sort of techniques don't work well steep ground and will leave you out of balance and/or massively pumped. If there's one thing that I should have focused more from the start it would be this.

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