UKC

Black Spout - Lochnagar, tomorrow (wed 18/2)

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 DizzyVizion 18 Feb 2020

Hello. Avalanche report for southern cairngorms today is moderate risk. The forecast for Lochnagar tomorrow is windy but decent visibility. Has anyone been up Black Spout gully in similar conditions?

I've got a day off work tomorrow and so does my brother. We'll be heading for Torridon in 3 weeks time to take a look at Deep South gully and Morrisons gully (with a traverse of Beinn Eigh as a backup), so ideally we'd like to get a gully done before then.

Any advice for Black Spout gully tomorrow would be greatly appreciated.

 girlymonkey 18 Feb 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

We triggered a (thankfully, very small) avalanche in black spout gully a few years ago when avalanche forecast was showing low risk on all aspects. It was windy though, but the old heuristic trap of a good avalanche forecast convinced us it was fine. Thankfully, we were all ok other yhan being very shaken and retreated very carefully.

I haven't looked at tomorrow's forecast, but whatever you decide to do, don't just trust the forecast. Make a decision based on what you see.

Edit: just had a look at the sais forecast and I wouldn't be heading up there. Moderate risk on lower slopes and considerable about 900. Not the forecast that I choose for gullies

Post edited at 19:04
OP DizzyVizion 18 Feb 2020
In reply to girlymonkey:

Thank you for that. I'm glad you're still here to tell the tale!

We may end up going for Ben Lui instead to traverse the East and North East ridges (in strong wind and poor visibility).

But if we go for Black Spout then it'll be in the expectation that a decision will be made on the day. Cheers!

Gone for good 18 Feb 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

I'm hoping to get up Ben Lui on Thursday.  I would be grateful if you could post a conditions report if you do venture up there tomorrow. 

OP DizzyVizion 18 Feb 2020
In reply to Gone for good:

Will do. I was actually up Ben Lui 4 weeks ago doing the East Ridge route (grade 1). I backed off near the top due to being solo and suffering from a cold, plus the turf wasn't frozen either - making it feel quite precarious at times. It was very windy then as well. Ho hum.

Post edited at 20:30
 Scomuir 19 Feb 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Hope you are having a good day, wherever you ended up going.   One of the things often overlooked about Black Spout (and other gullies), is that the approach slopes can be as dangerous, if not more so when show is suspect.   A ridge alternative in the area is The Stuic, but even then, be aware of the snow shelf at half height during periods of poor stability.

Morrisons is the most straightforward of the 3 gullies you mention.  An excellent combo, in good snow conditions, would be up Morrisons Gully, then down into the corrie, and up Fuselage Gully.  The amount of wreckage in Fuselage to be bypassed varies considerably in height depending upon build up.  It can completely disappear.    I've done the reverse on skis a couple of times (Fuselage first, then Morrisons), so know it would be good the other way.  Deep South is narrower with a couple of points which will require a little thought.

OP DizzyVizion 20 Feb 2020
In reply to Scomuir:

Thank you for the great info. We just hope we get the conditions for it.

We didn't get out yesterday. The forecast changed the night before putting the day out of consideration. Too far to travel in the slight hope it might be ok'ish so we went a walk up the Pentland hills; east kip and west kip. Some deep snow on the east facing slopes made it quite a fun day.

Thanks again

OP DizzyVizion 20 Feb 2020
In reply to Scomuir:

> An excellent combo, in good snow conditions, would be up Morrisons Gully, then down into the corrie, and up Fuselage Gully.

We were thinking after Morrisons gully, a bit along the ridge, of dropping down left and trending towards Fuselage gully at the point where turns and enters the buttress proper. Would that be a viable option? Rather than dropping all the way down to the coire?

​​​​

 Scomuir 20 Feb 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

I think you can, but imagine it's not the best approach. You could aim your descent from Sail Mhor to target the entrance to the gully.  It's not a great loss of height, and you get to do the whole gully then.

OP DizzyVizion 21 Feb 2020
In reply to Scomuir:

Sounds great. Just wasn't sure if that was possible. Thanks for the help!


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