UKC

Suggestions please. Mammoth traverses, tight squeezes, etc. I'll get the ball rolling:

Crab Crawl, Creag Meagaidh
Crypt Route, Bidean
The Clanger, Ben Nevis
Anything on Southern chalk

In reply to Mr. Lee: george - liathach

In reply to Mr. Lee: The Alpine Ridge in Fairy Cave Quarry,I`m sure somebodys done it but I`ve not seen a photo of it yet.

In reply to Mr. Lee:
Post Box Gully, Sgorr Ruadh
Gardyloo Gully, Ben Nevis

In reply to KA:

But don't assume it will be II...

In reply to MG: II,4 I thought.

In reply to KA:

Probably about right, yes. Good route.

In reply to MG: Or even II,4a. The tunnel involved more rock climbing than winter climbing, and you're right, good route.

In reply to Mr. Lee: Black Cleft on Cloggy, though you need a really hard winter.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Couple of peak options come to mind:

Blue John Rib, or anything else on Mam Tor.
Matterhorn Ridge/Elbow Ridge

In reply to Mr. Lee:

What about that thing on Ladhar Bheinn?

Also Direct Nose on Sgurr an Fhidhleir.

In reply to Southern Man:


Esoteric? It's a modern classic.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Doesn't see so many ascents though. Not VII 7 either but totally brill.

In reply to DaveHK:

What grade is it then?

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

VI 7 imho.

In reply to DaveHK:

Hmmmmm... that moves it from the "pipedream" to "long-shot aspirational" category, although I'd still need to improve!

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Have you done it in summer Jamie? It made a massive difference to how long we took as I knew exactly where I was going. Also, I only remember 2 hard pitches but both were quite high up (last and second last?). One was getting onto the slab with lumps of turf and the other was the top 5a crack which is tech 7 but very well protected.

In reply to DaveHK:

Can send you some pics and beta if you really want to blow the onsight?

In reply to DaveHK:

Not bothered about the onsight, or for that matter a bit of Aid on that top pitch! I'll take you up on the beta if and when it seems like a serious proposition.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Route 1 , Rannoch wall, an offering from the fox of Glencoe, deserves to see more ascents, classic steep mixed.

Astronomy, another from the old master, fantastic and ephemeral, strike while the iron is hot.

In reply to Mr. Lee:
Fear of a flat planet, rannoch wall: just love the name. Never heard of anyone climbing it.
The sea the sea, slioch: nevewr heard of anyone either.
Some of them ice routes on Fionaven: I think they're called stuff like waterfall I, II... from memory.
Vishnu, eastern rampart, beinn eighe. Been there several time to climb stuff and it was nowhere near in.
The cul, cul mhor, wester ross. Has been talked about a few times with my usual partner in crime.
Purple blaze, beinn an lochain, arrochar
Rapunzel, somewhere weird in the coe (name?)
There are so many less well known routes really...when should I stop.

In reply to French Erick: Hasn't Postie Stuart done Purple Blaze? Maybe even the FA?

In reply to French Erick:

It would be great to see Fear of a Flat planet repeated, i like the fact that it was climbed in summer as a Bridge to far and given E2!, the hard start, a bulging crack has reasonable hooks, but little for the feet.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Fair enough, God knows it's waaaay beyond me.

In reply to Southern Man:


Why?

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Esoteric in terms of never seems to come into nick then how about the Wabe or Mome Rath Face Route on Gearr Aonach in Glencoe?

Or else those waterfall routes on Foinaven; they look superb!

Dalness Chasm ?

Never done it but must meet the 'esoteric' criteria........

In reply to TobyA:
Not FA but an early repeat. I did it on his recommendations and absolutely loved it. It comes with a note of warning though. The finish is really out there: not hard, delicate and really run out.

Quagmire: I really fancy this route... I'm wary though. It's a Garth route and it's on the buachaille (flat hooks) I bet it's stiff for the grade. May be this winter? However, I already need a rematch with the crux pitch of Raven's edge (10m lob from just below the finishing ledge as seen on the SMC winter climbs...still fuming).

To OP: I really fancy doing a remote Wry Gob route. I need to MTFU for one of these pieces though.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Once In A lifetime, Labyrinth, The Ozone Layer, Cir Mhor.

Nuis Chimney, Beinn Nuis.

Fingals Chimney, Fall Out, Aonach Dubh.

Stuart

In reply to French Erick: Give us a shout for ravens edge Erick, would travel west for a look at that, or some of your earlier NW thoughts!

Andy

In reply to Mr. Lee:
Plenty of the routes on the S flank of the Aonach Eagach are pretty esoteric... never climbed any of them myself!

In reply to Only a hill: My wife proposed to me after leading the second ascent of Donald King's Midget Gem in there (yes, it was a leap year).

In reply to Mr. Lee:
- Crypt route definately. If you are chubby diet first or you will have to diet whilst climbing!
- Glen Esk...

In reply to AlH:

Wasn't that on the North side? Or did Alex make a slip of the keys?

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

I love it when a route enters or re enters this category.

Big thanks to Ice Factor for our *session* where blind eyes were turned and clocks ignored to give the bears a mammoth session well over the allocated time.
It's shit like that that keeps you coming back!!! Cheers.

In reply to Stuart the postie:

Ahhh, The Ozone Layer......

And any of the routes on Nuis deserve to be considered esoteric, especially that chimney/gully at the left-hand end (sorry, the name escapes me), and Gully 3 has one of the finest through routes out.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Oops you are right! My brain assumed he was talking about the side that sees less climbing action. Blu Riband on the south side is much sought after and was well worth the wait.
I remember when I lived in Glasgow day dreaming about the Nuis Chimney...

In reply to Only a hill:


Has anyone climbed the incredibly obvious chimney at the East end of the South flank? Anyone who has climbed in Glencoe must know the one I mean as its so regular and obvious. I heard back in the 90s people had been into it but not made much progress, but I imagine in past recent winters when the Blue Ribband has been in good nick, that line would have been too.

In reply to Mr. Lee: It won't often be in condition, but in the south west Salute to the Admiral http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=237692

In reply to Mr. Lee:

The road cuttings on the way up the A82 have seepage lines down them that iced up two years ago. I didn't do the Lomondside ones, but I did about 12 on the overtaking straight to the north of Inveraran. They probably fit the bill for the shortest winter route and easiest access from the road. I have pics somewhere, but never stuck the routes in...

In reply to TobyA:
Fairly sure Arthur Paul climbed that.

In reply to Mr. Lee:
Anyone mentioned Mick Fowler's St Pancras Station frozen toilet outflow route yet? Must be still waiting on a second ascent.

Not in the same class of difficulty as most already mentioned, but Fuselage Gully in Coire Mhic Fhearchair with the aircraft debris is reasonably esoteric. I've certainly never belayed off a propeller since that climb.

In reply to Al Walker:

The Ozone Layer strikes me as an improbable, superbly timed, voyage across granite slabs, in an outstanding location! Knowing this face, I'm amazed it's they're at all, I'll bet you enjoyed being on it!!!

Nuis Chimney and Gully 3 are the same route. I know someone who done it a few years ago, describing it as 'amazing', probably climbable more often than the ferry timetable allows!!

Do you know anything about Once In A lifetime VII,6, you were on the scene around then???

Thanks

Stuart

In reply to paul-1970:

I went to one of his talks last year, and I'm pretty sure he said the overflow has been fixed so it doesn't come in any more. An ex route.

In reply to davidbeynon: When I was a student in Birmingham ages ago one of the drains off the railway embankment in Saltley used to freeze fairly often into a perfect 20 foot vertical ice pillar. Might still do?

In reply to Southern Man:

Tir Nan Og? That's been on my wish list for a while. I think a right good adventure could be had by kayaking across from the other side rather than marching for a day from the east.

In reply to Murko Fuzz:

Shhhhhh.... let's talk.

In reply to Murko Fuzz:

Possibly the best route I've walked past! (sorry Jamie)

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Cliviger Gorge near Burnley - was good a few years ago.

E

In reply to Stuart the postie: Nuis chimney is indeed brilliant. The whole experience with the ferry etc made it all the sweeter. Although the face catches lots of sun, the gully is really enclosed so will hold snow well and benefit from lots of water trickling down it. Pure thrutching heaven.
I climbed it in a cold spell of not a particularly cold winter so as you say probably in condition more than you think.

In reply to Stuart the postie:

Sorry Stuart
I was away from home and had a brain freeze. I actually meant Gully 5 on the Nuis Face. Anvil Gully is the other one which is vaguely character building. Actually, Gully 4 is worth it too. None of them are hard, but interesting in their own way.

Being in NZ now, I don't know what Arran Winters are like these days, but the place does come into climbable condition more often than folk appreciate, you just have to be flexible about where you go. Like when we did The Ozone Layer, we went over to have another try at South Ridge Original (stories there too), but the turf and snow on that line looked far better through the mist. It would be good with well frozen turf and a light covering of snow. The middle pitches were really good padding up cleanish slabby grooves.

Once in a Lifetime is indeed as good as the name suggests. Unfortunately, it's also in what we would have considered climbable condition less than you might like. For quite a few years that line was the one we were looking at and waiting for on Arran. Graham and Dave were better with their timing and got it. Modern gear and attitude might make it climbable more often now. Knowing the face from old, nowadays I would be going back there as soon as the turf froze, and would be placing less reliance on the ice we used to wait for.

Hope that helps, there are still a few gems over there waiting to be unearthed.

Al

In reply to Mr. Lee:
The Clam on Lochnagar. Has anyone done this? It sounds pretty entertaining in the guide and maybe is quite hard at V.

Breech of the Peace, Edinburgh Castle

In reply to Mr. Lee:
Salmonella on aonach beag
Moonstone on Meall Garbh
Enigma on Mainreachan buttress.
Anything on creah an dubh loch

In reply to Stevos:

The Straight-jacket as well. Does NOT sound like an easy one!


Ah yes. Wonder how many folk would give this a go if it came in?

In reply to Mr. Lee:

To me esoteric means the road less traveled, two that come to mind for me are Hidden Ridge on Ben Starav and Flaky Ridge on Creag Coire an T-Slugain.

Both share certain characteristics, but are longer, infinitely better and a bit harder than the over-travelled Dorsal Arete (the antithesis of esoteric). Well worth seeking out!

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
If not already mentioned i thought flaky ridge was hard for the technical grade. More III,6. I guided it under powder so may have missed some hooks on the short crux but it was harder than 4.
Nice corrie though.
P.s. lots of snow in the Straths today, looking reasonable for combat this weekend.
James e

In reply to James Edwards:


I thought is was bloody hard too!

In reply to James Edwards:

Do you mean the wee wall that you step down and left onto, maybe 2/3s of the way up? Remember that being tricky, but I think the hooks were good.

In reply to James Edwards:

Great wee crag, super-accessible from the Fort or Inverness but still virtually unknown. Have also done Hong Kong there, which I thought was very good. Keen to explore Druim Shionnach next!

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

I enjoyed Hidden Ridge, but think Crypt Route is way more esoteric! More like that please!

In reply to jonnie3430:

The Beast's Lair, Glas Bheinn, (Glen Carron) 200m of contortion, well maybe not the full 200 but quite a lot!

In reply to rogerwebb:

Here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11643 ? Very interested

In reply to jonnie3430:

That's the right hill but not quite the crag, it's the next one on Sgurr A'Gharaidh, Greenhorn Gully on Creag Na H-Iolaire is very good too.

Beast's Lair just needs cold, Greenhorn needs some build up. Short walk ins but low.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
I can't remember anything about stepping down and left ; I remember a couple of awkward steep moves straight up with a hoolie's worth of powder in my face. I was expecting it to be a mear speed bump but it was more of a red light!
The other corries are good too, but I haven't been that way for a couple of seasons now.
James

In reply to James Edwards:

It always feels harder guiding, but you probably did miss a hook. I don't solo tech 6.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Ghlastail GTX. The very acme of esoteric.

In reply to petemacpherson:
Was thinking about marathon corner... but I wanted to mention only things I can actually try.
When you did the 2nd ascent...I was still delusional enough to think I could. Was working in Thurso and knew it was in: thankfully my partner told me to get lost

In reply to DaveHK:

Tell me more; very keen to explore that area.

In reply to petemacpherson:

Now that does sound good!

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Not done it Jamie but ran past it the other week and was most impressed. Only an hours walk in from Strath Conon but obviously needs a long low freeze. Mates went to do it during one such freeze a few years ago and found the top pitch not sufficiently iced.

In reply to French Erick: Hi Erik, Get on it, its not all that hard for VIII. Its quite bold in places, infact myself and Ian place about half a dozen nuts in the whole route! Having discussed the route with Guy we seemed to have got more ice on the crux pitch (pic of Ian on it in my gallery) which i reckon would make it a bit easier. The amount of turf on that route is beyond a joke so take loads of hooks...

Cheers,

Pete

In reply to DaveHK:

Just looked it up, an "up and coming classic" apparently. Presumably when it achieves this status it won't be esoteric anymore?

It is however water-ice, and therefore fundamentally wrong; having picked up that guide I'm now much more drawn to Sgurr na Muice and a great pic of The Sorcerer. Anyone done it?

In reply to rogerwebb:

Just the route for you Roger, all you need is a few 16foot slings and a sense of humour. By the way, next week could be good for some leftfield routes...

In reply to French Erick:

Dude, I never said you couldn't climb VIII just that you needed to do some training so that you had the strength to climb the route AND place gear too.

Call me old fashioned but that's important to me.

In reply to DaveHK: Marathon corner isn't strenuous so training isn't required i would say. Theres not that much gear to place either, mind you falling of would definately not be a good idea. Its sort of the opposite of climbing on say Beinn Eighe.

In reply to DaveHK:
Aren't you old fashioned? Who else would be riding fixed wheeled bikes...aren't they a 19thC thing?

I found a couple of VIIIs to train for the big ones (short and well protected...and far from the laughing crowds), perusing books this am. Shin and neck aching (from fall and carrying).

In reply to DaveHK:
Don't thinks so - straight forward ice climbing with a wee steep bit unless you count belaying on trees in places.

In reply to rogerwebb:
Don't believe it Roger the photo is upside down!

In reply to Lone Rider:

Remote(ish), beautiful location, rarely in nick. Works for me.

In reply to petemacpherson:

You wouldn't happen to have Thursday off would you?

In reply to rogerwebb: No such luck Roger, i'm a weekend man these days. I hope sundays good, would be good to nail one of the big ones off the list!

Cheers

In reply to Mr. Lee: Pillar Chimney on Clogwyn Du probably fits into this category, a proper grovel!