In reply to Removed User: Phew...I went to Cogne last year and while I was there, one Brit got killed and another ended up in hospital, badly injured. They were avalanched off a s/w facing route in the 'warm' of an early afternoon. The local guides were furious, they had to spend several hours doing the rescue under very unstable ice.
It was basic moutaincraft, and I'm not proud of myself here either. Our crew were about 200 metres away on the same side. Sometimes you get lucky...and sometimes
It's March now and the season is over, however, put a note in your diary (I'll put one in mine)to put this up again next November...and every November. It just might keep us all a bit more sober with our ambitions. There was one post a while back about ice climbing and it said 'climbing is not a falling off sport'; this I keep absolute forefront in my mind when I'm in the chilly season.
More getting killed and injured. This is an issue not just for ice climbing but Alpine climbing and off piste ski-ing in general and my call is simply that it is now easily accessible for almost anyone. You go ski-ing, see the ski sunday adventure section or an 'extreme sport programme', head to the shops and buy gear that is relative to incomes actually cheap.Find the guidebook, look for the hardest route (cos you do 6a on a wall) and away you go. You get there, (low cost airline), you've got two weeks and you want to perform!!
I am older and in the 70's and 80's, gear was (income relative) eye wateringly expensive, information was scarce, no internet, no cheap flights and getting a car to Chamonix and back without breakdown etc would have been a miracle. People therefore relied on 'who they knew had been there'. They would have been to Scotland or Wales and got in the odd pickle there, that all provided experience/apprenticeship whatever you want to call it.
There are of course a whole slew of generalisations here, and I for one am not advocating 'the good old days' (they weren't). They do however use a phrase in Aosta (well the people I talk to do). You can go the Mountains when they are ready for you and not when you are ready for them. The common feeling is that the pressure to perform in your 'holiday slot' sometimes overwhelms sense, add lots of people and you will get more accidents, just by the statistics.
20,000 attempt Mont Blanc every year and 300 on average die in the massif area.