/ Information about Cogne?
I am out here now. nothing has been done in either of the main valleys since sunday. 2 days of constant heavy rain (yes rain!) over the weekend followed by very heavy snow triggered avalanches of all types down to the valley floor in both valleys including across the roads. I’ve snowshoed into both the valleys as far as i can get. Many of the routes have been washed out and there’s been no access to anything. visitors this weekend will have their work cut out getting in. People are only getting in with snow shoes or skis and that’s just the valley base not the climbs. meanwhile the skiing conditions are superb, snowshoeing is an alternative sport and the pizza restaurant’s still open. room for improvement.
Doesn't bode well for my arrival on Monday...
the snow’s getting more stable every day and the weekend will have people bashing routes into the climbs. then we’ll find out
Thanks for the update , we are en route right now a party of 4.
Thanks - that’s reassuring , fingers crossed - temperatures look good too. I’ve been looking forward to my annual week of ice climbing , was worried it might become a week of bouldering...and I’m rubbish at it!!
thank you for the info, please let us know what conditions look like next week
Conditions are improving. The weekend crowds from Turin have done their job and ploughed paths through to at least some of the climbs. It’s very cold so the snow’s stabilising and routes are rapidly refreezing. You’ll have a great time
I should be arriving sometime Monday, will post updates on conditions whenever I get chance
Some local info, I’m here until next Sunday. Very cold over night, -11 this morning at 9:15 in champlong, Today we have climbed cascata di champlong, we pitched the bottom pitch, then waded through very deep snow to the last but one pitch which is a beautiful ice pillar guide book lll/3 but felt more of a 4. We have made tracks for future parties. Note....... we have left two v threads In situe, there may be bolts but I couldn’t find them as there’s just so much snow. Will post on tomorrow’s adventures
Climbed Gran Val today. Did it in two pitches, couldnt find the bolts at the top of P1 so started up the fun bit to P2 to get to good ice. P2 was ok but P3 and 4 are just snow. Lots of running water behind the ice and a open hole at the base of the first pitch.
As nation1 mentions, we too couldn't find any anchors as there was so much snow. So some downclimbing and v-threads (ours were naked) to descend. We saw upto 20+ people on Patri today and a couple on Repentance (Matthias Scherer & Tanja Schmidt report brittle ice). Most of the ice in Valnontey is in to some extent, but there is a lot of snow. Almost every gully has avalanche debris at the bottom which makes getting to the base of routes a chore.
Climbed sentiero dei troll today, climbed 3 pitches then abseiled off, slightly different conditions to when I climbed it last year, plenty of ice but not very steep, calf’s we’re burning a wee bit so not very pleasant from a personal point of view. As I remember from last year it was pretty much easy angled ice from pitch 3 upwards until the last but one pitch which was a very short ice pillar so we sacrificed the short steep section for a beer ????
Mooched up Valeille today, but found most routes in 'not worth the effort' condition. As with Valnontey lots of avalanche debris and one really impressive mud/rock/tree slide.
We settled on Cascada di Champlong having seen the crowds on Lillaz (went back to do the 1st pitch in the afternoon).
Was very warm today with rain/ snow forecast for tomorrow, freezing at 1800m apparently.
Chains are shit, they break all the time and you keep having to take them on and off. Winter tyres are the staple imo.
Bump. Anyone got any more recent update than Monday. Just packing for next week, and wondering whether I need to take a Scottish rack to build my own belays etc.
Don’t know re conditions but most of the belays on the popular routes are bolted. Obviously save a couple of screws for the ones that’s aren’t (can’t always tell but sometimes you can).
Thanks Misha, but I've been out to Cogne a few times. I would agree the belays are usually bolted, but there were reports a week ago that the belay bolts/chains were buried in snow and hard to find.
On the popular routes belays are quite ok to find. Just a few were buried. We haven't needed any rock gear yet but do have a few nuts and a couple of cams handy should we need them.
The avalanche danger is currently at 4, and there have been a lot already, including one set off by a climber on the approach to Monday Money.
Valnontey is ok for most of the routes, Valeille is much thinner, but going back up today to see if there is anything safe.
Temperatures for next week are not the best. We had +6°C in cogne yesterday and it's getting much warmer over the weekend apparently.
have been in Cogne all week, climbed Lillaz Gulley, Cascade de Lillaz and Patri plus a load of routes at the small crag next to the river half way up to Lillaz. We had little trouble finding the bolts at belays on the multi pitch routes but some did need digging out
What have the masses been up to this weekend?
I left on Thursday evening I'm afraid but forecast didn't look great for Sunday / Monday (snow/rain) so suspect it'll all have changed by today. Good luck if you are heading out - stay safe.
Thank you, we got here Saturday and will be here until the end of the week.
We’ve climbed Cascate de Lillaz (busy on a Sunday, quelled surprise! Bit slushy in the 4th pitch) and Cascate di Champlong so far (WI4 in its current condition but nice to do something new for us). Also walked into Valnontey on Monday: teams were on Acheronte and Patri but I didn’t see anyone on anything else. In addition, in last few days we have seen plenty of cars in the pull off for Molina (below the road between Cogne & Lillaz): 50’ wide section of ice reported with ~6 lines available. Plus, in the Bar Licone log book: Repentance was climbed.
The tracks have been well tramped into Valnontey as far as Patri/Acheronte but no further - I did another flat 1/2 mile over the bridge but snowshoes/skis are needed. Loads of old avalanche debris all along the valley, the weather’s been mixed but ok so far with some fresh snow, a morning of drizzle and then bluebird skies today. Out if the sun it’s been below zero degC all day today.
Replying to myself as we’re leaving tomorrow - but not a lot to add to the list above apart from what’s on the Hotel de Balme website. It’s dropped about 1-2 inches of light snow today which will change things up a bit - skiing in Pila (above Aosta) was a useful distraction. Good weather forecast to return on Sunday
Overlooking the village of Tremadog, the sun-blessed cliffs of Craig Pant Ifan and Bwlch y Moch offer over 300 routes ranging... Read more
Expedition Kit Hire offer high quality clothing (inc B2/B3 boots) and equipment for any type of expedition, e.g. from Polar,... Read more
The seventh annual Arc'teryx Alpine Academy, which ran from Thursday the 5th to Sunday the 8th, drew to a close last week in... Read more
Emma Twyford has made the 5th ascent of Steve Mayer's E8 6c on in the Llanberis Pass. The route features sustained technical... Read more