UKC

Thinking of a trip to do the Northern Pinnacles. How much technical climbing is there on the route? What length of time will the route take?

In reply to KennyWright: pretty bloody technical and lots of it! hardest winter ridge/scramble ive done (lean conditions). superb mountaineering day out

In reply to KennyWright:

when you thinking???? can i come!

In reply to Neil Mackenzie:

Maybe Wednesday. Are you free?

Im wondering if something shorter with less technical ground might be a better choice as there still isnae much daylight at the moment. I dont want to be trying to descend the mountain in the dark!

In reply to KennyWright:
Time variable, bit like tower ridge, some parties take 2-3 hours (once on the ridge proper) in good conditions, others all day. A very good outing.

Consider your approach, given preceeding wind direction and potential avalanche risk. Both the Glas Toll bothian approach to the west, and coireag Cham approach east are relatively sheltered so can collect wind slab. But give you two completely different aspects to approach via. There is also the direct approach via Terminal buttress, which gives harder climbing and makes a longer day.

In reply to ScraggyGoat:

Thanks for the info; can anyone suggest a shorter, similar mountaineering style day out in the north-west? I have done the An Teallach traverse and Liathach traverse recently

In reply to KennyWright:

Black Carl's on Beinn Eighe would be an option. If you progress quicker than expected you can head on to the summit. Bit loose in summer, much better in winter, grand setting.

Don't dismiss the northern pin's they are harder than the two other ridges you've done recently and certainly more imposing when your on them, but the most time consuming part of the day (assuming not swamped under powder) will be the approach. Maybe keep an eye on the weather for some good neve.

In reply to KennyWright: Very enjoyable & good value at grade 2, we walked round the back then after completing the northern pinnacles, reversed the traverse.

In reply to KennyWright:

Easier than you're after, but the Beinn Alligin traverse is always good fun.

In reply to Caralynh: How hard are the hard bits on The Traverse of a Chioch on Beinn Bhan? would this be a shorter day than the Northern Pinnacles?

In reply to KennyWright: It's a wee bit easier and slightly less committing-feeling than N.Pinnacles, and the approach is shorter. Still a big route, and the final few pitches are not easy for the grade. Feels like more of a 'climb' than Liathach traverse for instance.

In reply to KennyWright:

no free on wed unfortunately - enjoy whatever you do mate! and enjoy your party at the weekend, sorry i cant make it!

Traverse of Allign is to be recommended!

In reply to KennyWright: I'm not sure about shorter but Clah Glas/ Bla Bheinn traverse woulsd be a cracker. IV I believe.

In reply to Cameron94:

Both longer and considerably harder!

In reply to KennyWright:

Might go for the Forcan ridge as it is a shorter day...

In reply to Neil Mackenzie:

I did the Alligan Traverse a few years back in perfect conditions so I don't think I should ever go back in case I spoil the memories!

In reply to KennyWright:

There is an abseil off one of the pinnacles, how long is it?

In reply to KennyWright:

Did it on Sunday a 30m rope is just long enough, good day out.

In reply to KennyWright:

Sorry last post was regarding the abseil on the forcan ridge.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I did say I wasn't sure how the length compared. I also stated the grade as well, it's not like I physced it up to be a shortish grade II mountaineering day.
It would be a good one to do regardless though!

In reply to KennyWright:

You can down climb the section if you want, although an easier route to the south can be used to exit off the pinnacle you are thinking of. A 30-40m rope would suffice if you want to abseil it.