UKC

Mixed and ice - carrying screws and 'soft gear' safely

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 mcawle 07 Mar 2023

So I'm not very experienced in ice or mixed climbing although I have done a little bit.

I've experimented with a few different carrying systems for ice screws but basically I am wondering how people manage sharp ice screws around soft goods, particularly slings on alpine draws and quickdraws.

Generally speaking I am using ice screw clippers attached to harness clipper slots, where there are 2 clipper slots in front of the front gear loops and 2 more in between the front and rear.

So far I have gone with the approach of two clippers, one between the front and rear gear loops on each side, as I haven't needed to carry more screws than that.

In this scenario I find that the screw ends hang at about the same level as the quickdraw/alpine draw slings and it makes me think there is at least some chance of the screws compromising the slings.

This is more apparent when carrying a larger rack as harness loops are not just carrying draws but also nuts, cams, hexes, longer slings etc. 

If I am just carrying a small number of screws (2-4) this is less of an issue, particularly on easy alpine where I often leave the screw caps on as they are really only there for contingency on glaciers etc.

But with a bigger rack the proximity of sharp and soft makes me a bit nervous. Haven't tried the front clipper slots but that could be an option.

How do more experienced people tend to rack up for ice/mixed when carrying larger numbers of screws and/or other gear? Bandolier is obviously an option; I've never tried one.

Or am I over-thinking this?

Post edited at 15:09
 LucaC 07 Mar 2023
In reply to mcawle:

I think you may be over thinking this. I often take 14 screws across two DMM Vault ice clippers and have no concerns about the other fabric items on my harness. I usually have quickdraws on a bandolier as I find it easier than accessing the back of my harness when fully racked in winter.

OP mcawle 07 Mar 2023
In reply to LucaC:

Thanks!

Pedantic question - where are the Vaults positioned on your harness? 

 LucaC 07 Mar 2023
In reply to mcawle:

I have a Petzl Sitta and there are only two ice clipper slots, one each side positioned just behind the front gear loops. They're in an awkward place for me and would be better further back and clear of the gear loop, but it works. 

OP mcawle 07 Mar 2023
In reply to LucaC:

Understood. Thank you!

 John Lyall 07 Mar 2023
In reply to mcawle: I use flutes on a bandolier. This protects your clothing, other gear and the ice screws from getting damaged knocking against each other or other metalwork. Screws last much longer that way and your clothing isn’t shredded.

 neuromancer 07 Mar 2023
In reply to mcawle:

Honestly I just leave the plastic caps on and take them off with my teeth before placing. 

 TobyA 07 Mar 2023
In reply to mcawle:

I think you are over thinking it. For years I just ice climbed through the winter, predominantly single pitch water ice, so generally carried a rack of screws and quickdraws and little else. In what must add up to months of climbing every day, I've never had a problem with screws snagging on anything besides trousers occasionally. 

Bandoliers can be good for quickdraws in winter if you are doing any weird moves - just wait until you catch one of the rear heel downward points of you crampons in something hanging off your harness - I've managed it twice - once on a Scottish mixed route, once on a little Finnish icefall - total nightmare! I just use a thin 60 cm sling as a bandolier. In the distant past I have a padded purpose made one from Wild Country, they just seem to spin round so end up with the padding where you are trying to clip things on or off. Some money for something that doesn't do what it is meant to do. Just use a 60 cm sling! 


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