UKC

/ Nomics repair update.

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Dave Kerr - on 12 Jan 2018

A while back I posted about repairing wobbly Nomics with a second rivet. I've now done several routes with mine and thought I'd post an update.

The one I was using was initially repaired by leaving the original rivet in and adding a second. Unfortunately this started to wobble again after just two routes. I drilled out both rivets, packed the shaft/head with araldite and put in two new rivets.

I've now done 6 routes with this (all snowed up rock so it's had plenty of abuse) and there's no sign of movement. Still keeping a close eye on it but early indications are good that it's a long term fix. I found rivets hard to get hold of and as a result now have a box of 200 so if anyone wants to try the same let me know and I'll post you a couple.

alexm198 - on 12 Jan 2018
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Thanks for the update Dave, had been following this with some interest. 

I'd be really keen to repair mine so would really appreciate it if you wanted to mail me some rivets -- I'll message you.

neuromancer - on 12 Jan 2018
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Possibly a stupid question, but how are you going to change the picks if you have araldited the heads in?

 

George Fisher - on 12 Jan 2018
In reply to neuromancer:

I imagine he’s glued the head into the shaft rather than the pick into the head. 

GarethSL on 12 Jan 2018
In reply to neuromancer:

They're bolt on. He used Araldite to help fix the head into the shaft then drilled an extra rivet through the shaft and head to prevent wobble.

coldwill did something similar (though without a second rivet): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/nomic_loose_heads_the_cure-673956

Post edited at 13:55
Dave Kerr - on 12 Jan 2018
In reply to George Fisher:

> I imagine he’s glued the head into the shaft rather than the pick into the head. 

Yes, this.


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