/ Nomics repair update.
A while back I posted about repairing wobbly Nomics with a second rivet. I've now done several routes with mine and thought I'd post an update.
The one I was using was initially repaired by leaving the original rivet in and adding a second. Unfortunately this started to wobble again after just two routes. I drilled out both rivets, packed the shaft/head with araldite and put in two new rivets.
I've now done 6 routes with this (all snowed up rock so it's had plenty of abuse) and there's no sign of movement. Still keeping a close eye on it but early indications are good that it's a long term fix. I found rivets hard to get hold of and as a result now have a box of 200 so if anyone wants to try the same let me know and I'll post you a couple.
Thanks for the update Dave, had been following this with some interest.
I'd be really keen to repair mine so would really appreciate it if you wanted to mail me some rivets -- I'll message you.
Possibly a stupid question, but how are you going to change the picks if you have araldited the heads in?
I imagine he’s glued the head into the shaft rather than the pick into the head.
They're bolt on. He used Araldite to help fix the head into the shaft then drilled an extra rivet through the shaft and head to prevent wobble.
coldwill did something similar (though without a second rivet): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/nomic_loose_heads_the_cure-673956
> I imagine he’s glued the head into the shaft rather than the pick into the head.
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Overlooking the picturesque slopes of Wharfedale is a climbing destination of national significance. The distinctive Cow and Calf... Read more
Extensively researched by local activists with many years of rock-climbing experience on the coast of West Cornwall, this... Read more
Cracks and jamming techniques can be found in every type of climbing, so whether you're a bouldering beast, a crack climbing... Read more
Jeff Mercier, Simon Chatelan and Ron Koller have established two impressive new mixed lines at the Oeshinenwald sector above in... Read more