UKC

Overmitts for winter climbing

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 James Gordon 31 Oct 2021

Anyone used a thin and dexterous over mitt to put on over lead gloves for belaying?

I don't want a big bulky mitt (of which there are numerous ones). I’m after something that gives enough warmth with a thin glove underneath.

Ive been searching for gloves like XC ski or biathlon gloves eg. Hestra. Has anyone got ME Sentinel mitts? They look a little bit more dextrous? Ive used dachies but tbh the dry time is boring!

Many thanks for thoughts.

Post edited at 15:16
In reply to James Gordon:

Yes, ME Mountain Mitts.

Stuart

In reply to James Gordon:

Hestra do a shell pullover mitt. They also do a Primaloft liner with 600g fill that fits inside the same size mitt. It's a great modular system, so you can use them as fat mitts or just as shells for warmer days. Tbh though I can't imagine the slight warmth improvement of a shell would be worth the dexterity trade off when belaying. 

 CantClimbTom 31 Oct 2021
In reply to James Gordon:

Put these over your dachstein or thinner gloves and your fingers will be toasty

https://www.terra-nova.co.uk/gloves-mitts/gore-tex-gloves-mitts/tuff-bags/

And the company is based in Chesterfield!

 Robert Durran 31 Oct 2021
In reply to James Gordon:

Montane pertex and pile mitts have worked almost miraculously for me. Much lighter and less bulky than others I had previously used.

 NottsRich 31 Oct 2021
In reply to James Gordon:

I use a shell overmitt with no extra insulation. Makes a huge difference on long belays. Be careful with iced up ropes and slippery shell mitts. 

 DaveHK 31 Oct 2021
In reply to James Gordon:

What gloves are you leading in James?

I think the problem with that approach is thin lead gloves might be damp after a hard pitch and putting anything over damp gloves leads to cold hands. That's what happened when I tried something similar. It's not perfect because nothing is but I think there's a lot to be said for the thinner lead glove/big bifter combo where you take the thin gloves off at the stance and stuff them down your jacket.

Edit: If you just want a thinner insulated glove, I've used the Montane Prism ones. Don't know if they still make them but there was one with a hypalon (sp?) palm. Very light indeed and just enough insulation but I always took the lead gloves off as they felt warmer that way.

Post edited at 20:05
 jasonC abroad 31 Oct 2021
In reply to James Gordon:

Plus one for the Tuff Bags, though I find them okay to actually climb with though I usually take them off to place screws.

 Robert Durran 31 Oct 2021
In reply to DaveHK:

>  I think there's a lot to be said for the thinner lead glove/big bifter combo where you take the thin gloves off at the stance and stuff them down your jacket.

Yes, this is the key. You want to be able to move your fingers around in the mitts to keep them warm, while your several pairs of thin inners are warmed up deep inside your clothing.

OP James Gordon 01 Nov 2021
In reply to DaveHK:

Absolutely Dave, I use Mtn Eqpt direkt gloves to lead and do exactly that and thankfully have toasty hands (until I have to put them back on in a blizzard 😂)

But bc it can be a footer at belays taking them off I wanted to experiment with a thin mitt over the top. However you’ve said out loud what I know will be the case and burst my bubble of self delusion! I’ll try it in case a miracle happens but you’re right dry gloves are the key!

 rogerwebb 01 Nov 2021
In reply to James Gordon:

Lots of gloves or drop the grade until you can climb in mega super fantastic can't bend your fingers toasty gloves.

I used to do the former now I have found that the latter works really well too... Your choice

On a separate point am I alone in thinking that gloves under cuffs is not a great idea? Works fine until you have to take a glove off to do something after which it doesn't. 

OP James Gordon 01 Nov 2021
In reply to rogerwebb:

Haha! Sage indeed Roger. Yes, no silver bullet basically.

Gloves under cuffs, for me pros: cuff tightens glove, works well with thin leading gloves. Cons: with thick gloves/mitts yep it is a nause when you want to take em off. 


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