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Quick access Ice/Winter Routes in Aberdeenshire

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 benhedley 27 Feb 2018

All,

Probably know the answer to this already, but is there any good winter climbing within a couple of hours drive from Aberdeen with a short (<1hr/1 /2hr) walk in that's good for either after work or quick trips when you're short of time and don't want to commit to Lochnagar and the likes. 

Crag finder didn't show much, so suggestions welcome.

Cheers!

 Scomuir 27 Feb 2018
In reply to benhedley:

Southern sector of Lochnagar is accessible, with short routes.   Coire Kander on Carn an Tuirc.  Clova.

 Simon Caldwell 27 Feb 2018
In reply to benhedley:

Glen Clova?

 Michael Gordon 27 Feb 2018
In reply to Scomuir:

> Southern sector of Lochnagar is accessible, with short routes. 

Still a couple of hours walk though, even in good conditions.

 CurlyStevo 27 Feb 2018
In reply to benhedley:

This could be an option too when its really cold  Clachnaben

 Scomuir 27 Feb 2018
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Depends how fast you walk....  In "good" conditions, can be at the base of the routes in 90 minutes, and they are only basically 2 pitches.

1
 CurlyStevo 27 Feb 2018
In reply to Scomuir:

Thats good going its 6k and 500 meters of ascent. even if you were walking at 6k an hour on average on the flat the 500 meter ascent should take another 50 mins roughly.

Personally it would take me a minimum of 2 hours but the approach often drifts up and can take a lot more in poor conditions..

Post edited at 16:56
 Scomuir 27 Feb 2018
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Depends on conditions, as I indicated.  By "good", i meant the paths basically snow free, or the snow solid.   Anything else slows things up a lot - i've taken a lot longer to get into the corrie!   When basically snow free, i find it quicker and much less tiring to walk in wearing trainers, and swap them at a suitable point.  If you want to save a little bit of time again, cycling to a few hundred metres beyond the Allt na Ghiubsaich can help.   Doesn't save a lot when factoring in faff with bikes for such a short distance.

 Sophie G. 27 Feb 2018
In reply to benhedley:

I know it's Angus not Aberdeenshire, but try South Craig in Glen Prosen. Park at the end of the road at Runtaleave, cycle about 5k up the big landy track, walk another 4k to the foot of the crag, climb Spanish Dinner or similar, return.

Or again, Corrie Farchal and Corrie Clova in Glen Clova are very quick to get to.

1
 Gawyllie 27 Feb 2018
In reply to benhedley:

There's Funeral fall and Kneez are good on Broad Cairn Bluffs.

 

If you can take a bike up the side of Loch Muick it should be within an hour and half

 Michael Gordon 27 Feb 2018
In reply to Scomuir:

I often bank on 2 hours to get to the col (and that's not wading through powder obviously!)

 CurlyStevo 27 Feb 2018
In reply to Michael Gordon:

ive walked in to eagle ridge twice and other routes around there in summer and I’d normally go for 2.5 hours to base of routes in that area and winter is generally slower. 2 hrs to the col if the path isn’t drifted up in winter sounds like my standard time too. Not done a lot in winter there (2 successful routes I think). But one time the drifts were so bad it took us well over three hours to the col. The drive in was a mare too. Firstly the dual carriageway from Dundee was a scalectrix track with iced runnels and the undercarriage scraping on neve. Then we had to wait for the access track to be cleared too. Seem to remember getting to the col a bit before mid day and calling it there and then. Quite a hard work venue in my book. 

It’s not as hard work as the higher routes on the Ben in general but it’s way harder to predict on all counts. There is a genuine risk of getting your car drifted in there too if your are late off the hill imo.

Post edited at 23:36
 andyinglis 28 Feb 2018
In reply to benhedley:

Another 4 or 5 days of sub zero temperatures and Cambus o May quarry / Crag X (or is it Pannanch Hill I forget) may be worth a look. Otherwise there is the c30m high crag on the Lochnagar approach, the Gravelstone or something like that. Or as a rogue shout the Dubh Loch approach path stream (1/2 hr walk above Loch Muick west end) will be well frozen over now so probably grade II/III ish at a guess....?

Andy

 Scomuir 28 Feb 2018
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Factoring the A90 into whether to go to Lochnagar specifically or not is a little unusual...  If you go in there in conditions where you are likely to get the car stuck, then it's possible you will get stuck.  That's what weather forecasts are for.  Without wishing to state the obvious, any walk in in deep drifted snow is going to be hard work and slow wherever it is.

In lean times, I figure hour and a quarter to the col.  Getting to the southern sector stuff from there is quicker than the main corrie.  You can also go onto the plateau, and descend Red Spout if conditions allow.  Probably comparable in timing.

1
 Michael Gordon 28 Feb 2018
In reply to Scomuir:

1 1/4 hrs to the col is really quick in winter. No way I could do that carrying half a rack and rope (plus everything else)!

OP benhedley 01 Mar 2018

Cheers all, that's really helpful info. Looks like Glen Clova, plus some of the Lochnagar Outliers could be a goer. Might head up and see whether the Clova ice routes are in this weekend! 

Post edited at 16:31
In reply to benhedley:

Short crag about half way along Loch Callater, on the north side, has some (obviously) short routes. Can't recall the name.

Loch Callater is only 5k from the A93 and access could be quick - bike or ski - though ensure the snow gates are open at Braemar

 

 Simon Caldwell 01 Mar 2018
In reply to benhedley:

> Might head up and see whether the Clova ice routes are in this weekend! 

I expect they are probably in excellent condition, if you can find them under the snow...

OP benhedley 02 Mar 2018
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Yep, all roads seem to be up the creek. Might investigate Clachnaben instead, failing that there was rumour on here of a small falls on the coast near Findon. Reckon that has to be rubbish tho, but hey, people were climbing on the beaches in Cornwall today! 


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