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Route Advice

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 Jackspratt 18 Jan 2019

So I'm heading up to do Suilven with my Father in Feb with the plan being to do a couple of days around Fort William first to dust off the cobwebs, Day 1 I was planning on heading up CMD as I've done it before and its a decent length day with enough to keep me interested but not so much to put my Dad off.

I was looking for advice/route suggestions for the second day, CMD aside my experience has largely been with winter climbing around Fort William and not so much winter walking, I'd like a decent length day but with some interesting features, more akin to scrambling I guess.

Bit of Background my Dad was an army climbing instructor and went on a few alpine trips including the Matterhorn so he's experienced but he's not up for any climbing anymore due to recurring shoulder injuries.

 

Also if anyone wants to chime in with any Suilven advice then it'd be more than welcome

Thanks, 

Jack

 spenser 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

I enjoyed doing the Ballachulisch Horseshoe recently, some nice scrambling on Schoolhouse ridge, there are several steps which are 3-5m in height.

Not too hot on other routes around there as I've not done much in the area.

 peebles boy 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

Ledge Route - if he's spot on with CMD then Ledge Route would be a good step up to a graded climb that still feels like a scramble (snow condition/avalanche caveat etc...)

 aln 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

> I'm heading up to do Suilven with my Father in Feb with the plan being to do a couple of days around Fort William first to dust off the cobwebs, Day 1 I was planning on heading up CMD as I've done it before and its a decent length day with enough to keep me interested but not so much to put my Dad off.

> I was looking for advice/route suggestions for the second day, CMD aside my experience has largely been with winter climbing around Fort William and not so much winter walking, I'd like a decent length day but with some interesting features, more akin to scrambling I guess.

> Bit of Background my Dad was an army climbing instructor and went on a few alpine trips including the Matterhorn so he's experienced but he's not up for any climbing anymore due to recurring shoulder injuries.

> Also if anyone wants to chime in with any Suilven advice then it'd be more than welcome

> Thanks, 

> Jack

That's better.

 

3
 BnB 19 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

Excellent grade 1 route and a shorter day than the CMD arête to the Ben which is a lengthy, if easy, outing. Therefore a good combination.

http://scottishwinterroutes.com/chaorainn.htm

 Tom Last 19 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

Forcan Ridge is lovely, about a grade 1 as I recall? There’s an abseil in it too from memory if that makes any odds.

Might be a bit out of the way unless you actually plan on heading up the west coast, but it is a lovely place and a nice route - plus it’ll be much quieter than anything on Ben Nevis, probably. Whether there’ll be any snow on it though, who knows. 

3
 Michael Gordon 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

The full Suilven traverse involves a bit of scrambling on the descent from the eastern peak (potentially nasty in proper winter conditions?), but is straightforward if you just go up to the middle col.

If you're heading for Suilven I'd look at other stuff in the same area in preference to things like the Ben. The area is amazing, might as well do more there. If you're after mountaineering ground but without the technicalities of stuff like An Teallach and Liathath, then Ben More Coigach and the Fiddler gives a nice wee round from the west, with a narrow ridge and a little scrambling. Same with Ben Mor Assynt if you continue on to its subsidiary top. And if you're just looking for good ridge walks without any scrambling then Quinag, Arkle, Fionaven, Seana Bhraigh etc are all great days out.

 Michael Gordon 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Tom Last:

Forcan Ridge in winter may be a bit on the technical side for the OP's criteria. 

 Euge 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

Ring of Steall... Fantastic

 Jasonic 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

This is good- could descend from the bealach after Stob Ban to make it a shorter day;

http://scottishwinterroutes.com/stobban.htm

Forcan ridge in winter is graded II with an optional absail - 

In reply to Jackspratt:

Check out Ring of Steall - an absolutely fantastic ridge walk.

 

 GrantM 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

Zig-zags on Gearr Aonach in Glen Coe is a grade I route, if you continue the ridge to SCNL there's a bit of scrambling higher up or you could branch off and have a look at Broad Gully etc. From SCNL you can continue to Bidean and return by the lost valley or just head down the tourist path if you're feeling worn out after the CMD Arete.

 Pkrynicki1984 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Michael Gordon:

what a great list that is!

 AndrewJoyce 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

Have fun on Suilven! I assume you're planning to go for the main W summit via the bealach... If you're thinking of doing the E-W traverse, I can share some beta if you wish (I did it a few months ago - it's an awesome scramble, but as someone else already mentioned, there are two short sections at the eastern end of the ridge that could be tricky if there's snow / verglas).

 Tom Last 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Fair dos. 

Post edited at 18:03
 Gawyllie 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Jackspratt:

a few other options that I don't see mentioned

The North ridge of Sgorr Ruadh

A traverse over Beinn Alligan and the Horns

The Black Carls on Beinn Eighe

The south Ridge of Mullach Fraoch Choire

Post edited at 16:45

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