UKC

I'm wondering what to do to sharpen an ice axe when the front edge has retreated to a point where you have no clearance. The only thing I can think to do is to take it back to the next tooth but even then the angles don't seem to be right?

I've attached a photo showing a new pick profile on the left and what it looks like after it's been sharpened a few times on the right. The blue outline is the 'correct' as new profile. Do you just keep filing until you can reproduce the new profile typically? Or do most people have a sharp set of picks and a 'banger' set of picks?

 

I just file down the "small tooth" as and when the front of the pick reaches one - if that makes sense. I'm sure my mixed picks are at least 2/3 teeth shorter than when they were new (20ish years ago!) and they still climb and bite perfectly.

Remove the remainder of the tooth and probably the next then file a half moon into the pick. It won't make them like new but will still function well enough.

Pick below is borrowed from MP and is done on a new pick but you get the idea.

Take a half round file and remove the first small tooth behind the tip of the pic. This will give you the clearance to put whatever angle you want on the tip. 

A lot of drytool/ competition/ mixed picks are ground like this to begin with. Its also very good for small edges, preventing the second tooth from pushing the tool off the  crap placements 

Picture is probably more aggressive than you want but you get the idea. 

This is basically what I do Tim. Take the first tooth off and then you've got a bit more profile to play with. 

They never come out as a good as new picks, and the geometry changes somewhat, but they're very usable. I use the old, re profiled, picks for less technical climbing. Cruddy soft snow ice on the Ben doesn't really require razor sharp picks.

Get a nice new set for when you need them on good quality ice. 

I also have a set of mixed picks for when I know I'm going to be on rock most of the day, saves blunting the ice picks any further, plus the fixed thickness and pick angle on dedicated mixed picks makes them a bit easier to climb harder snowed up rock routes.  

In reply:

Never given it much consideration, but what does that clearance before the first tooth actually provide in an average climbing scenario?

It's not so much about clearance between the tip and first tooth, more that the tip is lower than the tooth. You need that tip of the pick to be able to sit on a hold without the tooth getting in the way and pushing it off.

Once the tip is filed back it quickly becomes too short and the first tooth will then be the part resting on a hook. 

I've attached a photo that hopefully shows what the problem can be... 

This can be a real problem if you start with a low grip which tilts the head point down and then transfer to a higher grip which rotates the pick point up. If the secondary point then lifts the main point away from the rock, you could lose your connection point (and I presume it's why having sharp secondaries can be important... )

A bench vice makes the job so much easier. An old mate round the corner from me has one and I'm glad I make the effort to pop over,  much easier than locking the tool in a wrestling move.