UKC

/ Shortest winter route

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estivoautumnal on 10 Mar 2018

There have been a few photos in the gallery this week of some very short ice routes. Some look no longer than 3 or 4 body lengths (although that may just be a foreshortened view). Is there a general consensus for the minimum length of a winter route?

A few of the 'routes' photographed qualify for what some old timers would have called 'the approach".

mrphilipoldham - on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

It's the new sport of ice bouldering developing, surely?

Wayne S - on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

So climbing some variable form of frozen water to not even the top of a mountain, by perhaps a non-logical line using steel aid for hands and feet needs more arbitrary rules? 

Minimum length is the distance required to give the climber a good experience!

2
Niblet on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

The problem with ice bouldering is that the mats wear out too quickly.

Mark Collins - on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

Applying rock climbing standards works for me. I think the shortest I've ever seen is 4m.

Ghastly Rubberfeet on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to Niblet:

> The problem with ice bouldering is that the mats wear out too quickly.

Go "Old School" and loose the mat!

 

Fergal - on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet:

Winter bouldering is where it's at !  maybe my warped sense of humour, find this very funny, comedy gold from Birkett. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNrdI1nUPmM

Post edited at 10:46
marzi - on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

Aladdins mirror direct when banked up, I watched Andy nesbit climb up past me in about three moves once, while I was struggling at the end if a rope

climber34neil - on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to Fergal:

Brilliant!!!

profitofdoom on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

> Is there a general consensus for the minimum length of a winter route?

Yes. Two inches

estivoautumnal on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to Wayne S:

> So climbing some variable form of frozen water to not even the top of a mountain, by perhaps a non-logical line using steel aid for hands and feet needs more arbitrary rules? 

Not unless you want to apply them? I was wondering how long a route needs to be before a first (or subsequent) ascent(s) can be claimed. By your logic a simple step on ice can be a route if the experience was good. 

GarethSL on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

I will admit to having logged "From Culvert to Tree" it gets 12 m but in reality its probably closer to 6. In my defence however, I did continue up the ice line from the tree.

From culvert to tree (III)

Smith42 on 13 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

I saw the photos with three lines drawn on a tiny patch of ice and felt a little sad.  Get a grip guys.

Alternatively there are few thousand first ascents still waiting for you on Ben Nevis.

 

petegunn on 13 Mar 2018
Big Lee - on 13 Mar 2018
In reply to petegunn:

6th March climbed,

6th March logged ay FA,

7th March someone states they previously climbed it.

Nothing like a bit of research before claiming a first ascent!

Claiming three routes seem a bit silly. I think it's pretty normal with ice just to count it as one route unless there's a clear obvious feature that is harder and regularly forms as such.

To be fair the actual climbing on Aladdin's Mirror Direct is about the same length. 

 

French Erick - on 13 Mar 2018
In reply to estivoautumnal:

but really who cares? It's not the last "great problem" has finally succumbed, is it?

 


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