UKC

This wonderful piece of writing just surfaced on Facebook and I thought it might interest many here: https://www.climbing.com/people/ben-nevis-accident-ice-climbing/

Very entertaining anecdotal writing, but I can't help feel phrases like "Only one more rap to freedom" don't sound natural for a English climber in the 90s

Great find!  Very well written and rather amusing.

If it were written in 2012, perhaps it's the result of more modern language influences on the retelling?

Depends who he has hung out with and where he’s climbed.  I remember in the late 80s and 90’s using ‘rap’, and the Americanism ‘dirt me’ as the local club had an American in it and we constantly took the ‘piss’ out of each others climbing cultural references.

doesn’t sound to me that the lexicon is wrong.

Could just as easily be an editorial change by someone at Outside, with 'ab'/'abseil' in the original, just as a British editor would as a matter of course change 'sidewalk' to 'pavement'.

Good point

Colin wrote for years for the UK mags as well for the US ones. I have a feeling I might have read this story before somewhere - but anyway, I'm sure he simply submitted it the text to Climbing where, once accepted, the editor would have changed abs to raps celsius to Fahrenheit etc. because it was being published in a US magazine.

This was the first thing hat occurred to me. 

He is forgiven then 🤣

It's amusing and well-written and maybe a 'the one that got away was this big' exaggeration but to me seems wildly irresponsible, especially when being responsible for a novice.

I'm not a winter climber though so this may be my value judgement - would you have done the same and gone up a multi-pitch route with dark approaching and little contingency?

^ please don't just downvote - please explain! It's a genuine enquiry about whether this mindset is normal for a sport I'm interested in learning more about

To many people on the high street in Fort William, winter climbing at all is wildly irresponsible.

Well no - but I don't live in 1996, I'm not really a winter climber myself and I'm famously a massive scaredy-cat. Climbing (of all disciplines) is full of characters of all varieties, and that is what makes it such a colourful (non-sport, non-hobby*) pursuit.

No downvote from me, by the way.

* for the benefit of those who think climbing is neither sport nor hobby.

Thanks for the helpful response

(I'm coming at this from a mainly fellrunning background and it's as much as sport as that - testing my strength, fitness and technique against the landscape)

I do consider myself a winter climber and in the winter of 95/96 I lived in Glasgow and regularly did all sorts of probably in retrospect, stupid things in the Highlands in winter! We didn't have a car, so you used to take the bus out to the Highlands. I distinctly remember running* in crampons off Beinn an Dothaidh (*note to beginners, don't ever run in crampons - particular above large cliffs!) because we had to get down to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel in order to get the last bus back to Glasgow. People should read Mick Fowler's first book - very similar in tone to Colin's article - about the ridiculous things they did to get winter routes climbed when he and his climbing mates all lived in London! IIRC, Carless who still regularly posts here was quite involved in some of the great stories.

Generally winter climbing is a wildly irresponsible thing to do, it's probably why some of us love it so much. 

I’m not really a Winter climber either, I’ve got a few low grade routes under my belt and a pair of criminally under used vipers under my bed. What I’m very familiar with is the mixture of exhaustion, unfounded optimism and low key desperation that often results in poor decision making. 

No judgment of the author (or your post) from me.

I winter climbed in Scotland  regularly for about  20 years and still do bits and bobs although hardly any for the last few years . I can’t remember  more than a handful of days out that didn’t involve adventure of some form , from mild to full on epics , with more of the latter than the former . And that’s the draw of winter climbing . Hope this doesn’t come across as mean , as it’s not meant to , but it doesn’t sound to me  like winter climbing is for you . 

 I can’t remember  more than a handful of days out that didn’t involve adventure of some form , from mild to full on epics , with more of the latter than the former . And that’s the draw of winter climbing .  

I came to the conclusion that unless the day felt like an epic then you couldn't really chalk it up as a good day! T

Thanks - not mean at all. I'm probably of a similar level to the novice in the article. With full knowledge of what could unfold I wonder whether he would have carried on.

I'm trying to understand what's normal, so I can decide how far to take my skills course-level experience. Frankly if winging it is normal, I'm oot

At the end of the day, winter climbing can be, and often is, sketchy as feck. Often more so at lower grades. If the thought of terrible snow anchors, massive run outs, epic benightenments and fear like you have never known isnt your cup of tea, then perhaps winter climbing is not for you.

I had a funny moment last year when my wife joined me in a state if some distress at the belay on low grade cairngorm classic, she tearfully exclaimed "winter climbing is cold, painfull and scary". I had no words of comfort for her, it is, and that's why its great.

A while back I purchased Andy K's Tor De Force book on descent, called 'Down'.  It has largely remained on the bookshelf where I assume that all of his knowledge will gradually transfer into my brain by some sort of osmosis.  However, I have got through the first few chapters and he makes some very good comments about basically keeping it together when you get tired / cold / scared / close to the bottom.  In fact, it is all the more important to keep things together when you are in this state.  The wonderful article that you directed us to is a very good example of that I think.

Epics are not obligatory but avoiding them requires knowledge of the required skill sets and an honest awareness of your own competence in those skills together with understanding which venues apply a premium to which skills.

(A lesson it took me a couple of decades to learn)

Often (usually?) grade of climb will not be the limiting factor as to what you are or are not competent to do.

If in doubt chicken out. 

There is an excellent summary of the skills and kit required in the new SMC selected guide to the West Highlands.

It is the sport of Kings and Queens. (Walk off after a great day and you will know what I mean)

Give it a whirl.

I wonder if trying to second with one crampon would have been the better option. Depends how steep it was and perhaps not really an option for a beginner. 

Ready for work a bit early and having a read of my old posts and I think I owe you an apology . Above I said  “maybe winter climbing isn’t for you” . I completely take that back and think that Roger s reply above is much better than mine . If you I are interested  in winter climbing you should definitely have a go . In 35 + years of climbing I’ve dabbled in most aspects of it ( bouldering to climbing  The Himalaya and all points in between) and have had sone amazing experiences in all of them .however  Of all of them I think that many of best experiences have been winter climbing in Scotland ( and the lakes ) . The point I and others were making is that often winter climbing involves being cold ,wet ,terrified ,exhausted , hungry , thirsty ( there must be a few others to go with that list ) and often for much longer than planned in atrocious conditions . Collapsing into a warm dry bed afterwards is an amazing thing . However my point here is that just because it can be all of those things it doesn’t have to be . Having the skills to safely climb an “easy “ ( obviously this is very subjective ) gully to the top of Scottish hill could lead to many many amazing days out . I think having a cautious  attitude to what can be a deadly pastime is no bad thing .I think you should do a couple of days winter skills with a guide or an instructor who is understanding of your caution . If you are lucky enough to get sone good weather and conditions ( that means very lucky ) you may find  you are hooked . It doesn’t have to turn into sketching  your way up grade 7 horror shows . You might never feel the need to go beyond grade 1 s and 2s, but that could well be enough . As Roger above says - give it a go .

No need for an apology - but that's a brilliant response. Thank you.

"being cold ,wet ... exhausted , hungry , thirsty ... and often for much longer than planned in atrocious conditions" - sums up my winter running. The "terrified" bit is the point of difference!

Good old fashion type 2 fun which acquires an increasingly shiny patina as the years go by. I wouldn’t ever not have had those days out.

Sure, I have been cold, wet and terrified and yet keep asking for more. It’s the «necessary mastery » which is attractive- first finding the conditions, then overcoming the challenges (mental and physical) while keeping your partner and yourself safe, last but not least, the sheer beauty of the places you find yourself into.

The  only downside for me is the  frustration it creates when nothing aligns and you find your day off is one day out of good conditions. Keep running and maybe save yourself some heartache… however it seems a pity to avoid it just on that ground.

Winter climbing is best enjoyed if you haven’t got a family and when having a very flexible job with regards to last minutes annual leave… but can be enjoyed with a smaller rate of success in all walks of life.

 I simply love it and keep returning to it despite a decreasing annual yield.

.

Superb

What a cracking article, thanks for sharing.