In reply to Erik B:
I did it last year in fairly plastered nick.
My pal led out across the slab but couldn't see any more turf blobs, and no further obvious gear so tried to retreat and took a big swing. Luckily no harm done. But not much gear and fairly sustained does not a V, 6 make (imho)... unless we missed something obvious...
I then thought I would try direct above the belay over the big overlap. I couldn't free it so it was at least tech 7 and pumpy, but definitely do-able if it hadn't been the first route of the season.
I would have thought nowadays that the direct route seems more obvious but obviously raises the grade a couple of notches. I wouldn't disagree with VI, 7 for this direct.
I also though Sesame groove was well hard for IV, 5 - I also agree with tech 6 via the higher, safer route. Can't be IV, 6 though as its not exactly overhead gear is it (traversing well away from it).
Numbers numbers. Whatever. Great route up a cool cliff.
B on H's login