/ Training For Winter Climbing

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RobScotland - on 11:05 Thu

Can anyone suggest books or websites that give good advice about training for winter climbing (steep ice and mixed)?

When I started out we just got up the ice by some combination of toughness and bloody-minded determination but sports science and training have developed a lot since then so I'm interested in how training techniques have developed.

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hwackerhage - on 11:37 Thu
In reply to RobScotland: Hi Rob, we did a blog entry many years ago that at least shows some of the training methods that we used. 

http://graniteandice.blogspot.com/2009/01/conditioning-for-scottish-mixed-winter.html 

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alexm198 - on 12:05 Thu
In reply to RobScotland:

This is a really good resource from House/Johnstone's Uphill Athlete website; https://www.uphillathlete.com/training-ice-mixed-climbing/

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planetmarshall on 12:09 Thu
In reply to RobScotland:

> Can anyone suggest books or websites that give good advice about training for winter climbing (steep ice and mixed)?

In general see TFTNA and Uphill athlete as already referenced. 'Winter Climbing' though is a broad church. In Scotland it could involve a 3 hour slog into Beinn Eighe to climb 3 pitches of Grade VIII, in the Alps it would probably involve a lot of Skiing, and in Canada it might be several pitches of roadside vertical ice.

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Exile - on 14:36 Thu
In reply to RobScotland:

I have found all the following, among others, useful:

Ice and Mixed - Will Gadd

Ice World - Jeff Lowe

Extreme Alpinism - Mark Twight, (the Old Testament)

Training for the New Alpinism - Steve House (the New Testament)

The New / Old Testament bit is me being tongue in cheek - some of Twights endurance training ideas have been debunked by the ideas in House's book, but it is still full of good information.

Dave MacLeod's utube channel also has a good film on mixed training.

On a personal level I replace one of my climbing wall visits with a dry tooling session a week (on an old railway bridge) and up the running a bit through the Autumn.  These DTing sessions are more about remembering what you can stand / pull on and how to stand / pull on stuff, than about fitness.

Post edited at 14:41
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