/ Training For Winter Climbing
Can anyone suggest books or websites that give good advice about training for winter climbing (steep ice and mixed)?
When I started out we just got up the ice by some combination of toughness and bloody-minded determination but sports science and training have developed a lot since then so I'm interested in how training techniques have developed.
This is a really good resource from House/Johnstone's Uphill Athlete website; https://www.uphillathlete.com/training-ice-mixed-climbing/
> Can anyone suggest books or websites that give good advice about training for winter climbing (steep ice and mixed)?
In general see TFTNA and Uphill athlete as already referenced. 'Winter Climbing' though is a broad church. In Scotland it could involve a 3 hour slog into Beinn Eighe to climb 3 pitches of Grade VIII, in the Alps it would probably involve a lot of Skiing, and in Canada it might be several pitches of roadside vertical ice.
I have found all the following, among others, useful:
Ice and Mixed - Will Gadd
Ice World - Jeff Lowe
Extreme Alpinism - Mark Twight, (the Old Testament)
Training for the New Alpinism - Steve House (the New Testament)
The New / Old Testament bit is me being tongue in cheek - some of Twights endurance training ideas have been debunked by the ideas in House's book, but it is still full of good information.
Dave MacLeod's utube channel also has a good film on mixed training.
On a personal level I replace one of my climbing wall visits with a dry tooling session a week (on an old railway bridge) and up the running a bit through the Autumn. These DTing sessions are more about remembering what you can stand / pull on and how to stand / pull on stuff, than about fitness.
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are...
This week's Friday Night Video is from UKC regular David Linnett. The short clip features Johnny Dawes climbing the Roaches classic Chalkstorm, although in Johnny's modern style: hands-free.