UKC

Anyone taken a look this weekend? We're heading up midweek and hoping to find conditions after a few days of forecast freeze. Salamander, Fahrenheit 451, Sunshine, Quartzvein? Or will we be scratching up West Buttress, if not driving to Glencoe?

Also anyone been up Central Gully, Ben Lui? Cornice?

Drove up today, Orchy hills looking okay with snow and some rime on N and NE facing cliffs but should hopefully get topped up over the next few days. Cold at sea level again today so should be something to climb mid week but I wouldn't expect ice routes to be there yet. Central Gully on Ben Lui non existent today with a light dusting of snow but most of the grass and scree still visible from the quick glance we got from the road. Maybe worth while punting for Ben Cruachan instead, a few grade III's and Toxic Brew is meant to be good at the grade. 

Snow in the Coe but looking a bit superficial at the minute other than some of the mixed stuff on SCNL being worth a look. 

Thanks Nathan, hope you’re doing well, young fella

If we rock up in Coire Daim on Udlaidh on Thursday morning and the ice hasn't formed, can anyone recommend which route goes as mixed climbing (preferably II/III) to avoid wasting the day? Thanks

Dothaidh may be a safer bet - if lots of snow prone to avalanche though but loads to go at 

Aye. Climbed there a few times previously. Determined to have a look at Udlaidh though.   Never been and a hard freeze has set in so must be worth a punt.

If the classic routes are still a bit thin in Udlaidh, then head into West Gully which should offer some good fun in thin conditions

http://www.climbnow.co.uk/blog/2019/01/beinn-an-dothaidh-12

Its snowing at moment in Oban (Tuesday) so will be dumping higher up inland.

Really helpful, thanks

I've done that route in far worse condition (swamped under a big dump). Basically a solo on the day. No gear unless you count the in situ peg belay half way up (see photo link).  Very interesting link, thanks.

Anything to report from Udlaidh? Or anyone done anything in the area? Looking for a climb with a short walk in that isn't too far from Glasgow!

Isn’t everybody?

North Wall Groove/Traverse, Gibber Crack, Cobbler. A hard going walk today through powder.

I would imagine Beinn an Lochain, Bakerloo Line or Purple Blaze, would be in similar good climbing conditions. 

Stuart

I've not climbed on Beinn an Lochain but walked up it yesterday. A lot of soft wind-blown snow about on the NE Ridge but the turf was firm at crag height. Kinglas Crag looked to be not too snowy but possibly a bit borderline conditions-wise? Couldn't really tell. The higher crags were much whiter of course. Inset bits like Monolith Grooves looked pretty buried but steeper stuff would have been good I'm sure. I liked the look of Edge of Darkness too. But not the easy gullies (so I just walked). 

Thanks for the replies everyone. We went up to Udlaidh yesterday and plenty of ice is forming but only Sunshine Gully was sufficiently icy throughout its length so we climbed that. Overhanging water ice and shifting, slanting, unconsolidated ledges made for a heart-stopping grade III. Well worth a look at the weekend though when more routes may be in firmer nick.

And Salamander Gully today. Stunning sunshine and decent ice the whole length of the route. A perfect outing.