UKC

/ Un Poco Loco direct (Again)

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Alasdair Fulton - on 04 Feb 2018

Un Poco Loco (VII 7)

Direct start, direct "finish", direct...  I think it's time to get to the bottom of this once and for all!

From this thread https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/winter_climbing/un_poco_loco_church_door-443849) it seems quite clear (from Stuart and Andy, the first ascentionists) that the "Direct Start" climbed a wall on the left of the Crypt Route Chimney then ascended twin cracks, not, passing a spooky loose block. Let's call this "Original Direct Start". They suggested VI,7.  Possible the cracks above Tim's head in this video at 01:16? 

https://www.vimeo.com/207296487

It seems as if numerous parties (us included) have climbed what we thought was the direct start, but was actually a little left of the line Stuart took. Stuart has suggested here (http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=6364) that this could be "crack line" which they did the FWA of in 2006. Tim has a look at climbing the offwidth crack/groove on the right side of the pinnacle (the way I went yesterday) at 01:25  but then climbs the left side of the pinnacle a few seconds later.  My feeling is that most people now climb this line thinking it is the direct start as the "spooky flake" has been mentioned on numerous occasions - you can see Tim standing on said flake at 01:41. This line has really nice climbing and keeps you well away from Crypt Route...but has the death block! (which must be well keyed in since it's been like that since pre 2006...).

Then there is the "direct finish" which is the strangest name for a variation to a middle pitch of a route...but hey ho! This is the logical continuation of the direct start, as it just flows nicely in style and direction. Some have mooted that doing the direct start and direct finish is called "Un Poco Loco Direct". However, in my opinion this is a bit of a misnomer as it really only shares around 4m of the first 60m, plus the final (less interesting/classic pitch).  Surely it's time for that route to gain status as an independent line?  

I don't think it can be called Crack Line as that also goes left, rather than up through the whole as in this photo:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=249940

Any thoughts on this web of confusion?

 

Post edited at 16:54
Dave Kerr - on 07 Feb 2018
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Was whoever was seconding not tempted to trundle the death block?

Alasdair Fulton - on 10 Feb 2018
In reply to Dave Kerr:

There was a party at the base of Crypt. To be honest, it's pretty keyed in. I think you'd want a long level and be well anchored above.


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