Now that travel restrictions are lifted in Scotland come the weekend it may be possible to get a winter climb (or two) this season - but where to go?
Looking for something easy, low grade, haven’t been out this season so just want to get out - Ben Nevis seems to still have stuff, as do Cairngorm Corries (is the ski car park open now?), some stuff done at the weekend on BoOrchy hills so may be an option, as does GlenCoe?
Where to head this weekend?
It's easy to find low grade options: Ledge Route, gullies on the Ben, Dorsal, Curved. Hell, there's always Tower in alpine nick or Green Gully. The Norries will be mobbed, they'll resemble that de rigeur scene from every zombie film, when the zombie mob is rushing at the film's protagonist.
I was this evening mulling my systems and thought processes for some easy soloing. The biggest hazard I could identify is..... everyone else heading out of lockdown!
All those grade I gullies..... only safe if no one is above you! One slip from a frustrated winter climber above you....
I could be wrong but it seems to have been timed for the end of winter. Last weekend would've been perfect. But I hope you get out and something good done. Higher would be better I'd have thought.
Other risk for the grade I gullies is that it's now prime skiing conditions!
Thumbs down eh? That baffles me!
Good old UKC eh?
> Thumbs down eh? That baffles me!
> Good old UKC eh?
Clearly someone without access to mountains
I've not given a thumbs down but I do think that everyone should just stay in. Scotland's crap these days, full of bloody humans leaving their filth behind. I can't bear the thought of returning
> I've not given a thumbs down but I do think that everyone should just stay in. Scotland's crap these days, full of bloody humans leaving their filth behind. I can't bear the thought of returning
Full? Have you seen the size of the country?
Scotland has a similar population to Singapore. Singapore is the size of Skye. Scotland is far from full of humans.
> Clearly someone without access to mountains
Everyone in the UK who can't go on a leisure trip to the Alps then?
Go high, go to a location that has a large plateau drift catchment above so will likely have a good depth of snow above to feed water for ice and more chance of the route being complete, go very early, stay in the shade and treat the route as a bonus to the day out. Have south facing rocky scramble option unthreatened by cornices as a back up. Getting away from the honey pots plenty and miles on your legs, a few options on the east.
Castlegates on Shelter stone (though at risk of skiers)
Braeriach, Corrie of the chockstone, or sphinx ridge area (I cannae predict what the cornices will be like), fall back being Angels ridge for something rocky south facing in corrie Brochan.
Or exploration in Braeriach Northern cories at grade I on the way to the above.
Beinn a' Bhuird all four corries will offer grade I or II (again canne predict the cornices).
Lochnagar a quick Central buttress, or romp up Black spout and then down and up the stuic.
I did Central Gully on Ben Lui last Sunday - pretty good conditions and with the warmer days and cold nights this week, the top layer of hail from the snow showers of last weekend will have gone. It's a brilliant mountaineering day out - but a long walk out for the unfit!
It was a simple concept: invite 100 women trad climbers to a week-long meet to celebrate the centenary of the Pinnacle Club. And the venue had to be North Wales: the club held its inaugural meeting in 1921 at the Pen-Y-Gwryd Hotel below...