The all-round comfy climbing shoe is something we don't talk about much. Performance is cool, performance shoes look cool, and people performing feats of amazing strength are cool to watch. But for most of us, bread and butter days out climbing are far off the cutting edge. Here's where the low-to-mid-grade shoe comes into its own. 

For me, comfy climbing shoes represent the heart and soul of climbing. Those days out with friends doing steady boulder circuits, big mountain routes, or an afternoon at Stanage climbing classic after classic. The Unparallel Engage is more a 'heart and soul' kind of climbing shoe: it's not fancy, it doesn't have bright coloured leather and there is no crazy six-letter acronym to explain some fancy tech. It quietly gets on with the job at hand and doesn't complain about it. The Engage comes in either a lace-up or a velcro model; we've been looking at the former.

In Use: 

The Engage has all the elements that you want from a comfy no fuss shoe. It's flat lasted, which means your foot sits in a very neutral position inside. The heel cup nicely grips the back of your foot without driving it aggressively into the toe box, and the leather upper is soft and breathable.

A key element that I think stands out from other comfy-fit shoes is the toe shape. It's accurate and precise, which in all honesty I wasn't expecting. There is an element of performance here that has perhaps rolled over from the heritage the Unparellel brand shares with Five Ten shoes and specifically the old Anasazi toe shape. As a result, this is a more fitted toe box than you'll tend to find on shoes in this category. Comfy shoes normally give your toes space, and as a result, they aren't very precise when it comes to standing on footholds; but the Engage has a more foot-hugging fit. As a result it's more precise but it does sacrifice some comfort. Of course this is not necessarily a bad thing, it just depends what sort of fit you are looking for.

Upper:

As you would expect of a shoe like this, the fit is generally forgiving and pretty relaxed. But the lacing system comes down far enough that you can adapt it to your foot type and tighten up the laces for when you need that extra bit of performance. The metal eyelets at the top of the shoe allow you to undo the laces and quickly loosen them so the shoe can be taken on and off relatively easily. With the bottom 3rd of the lacing system passing directly through the leather upper, this bit is harder to adjust quickly, but it does hold everything in place with very little slippage.

The upper is an unlined US leather which I find very pleasant and soft. As the shoe is unlined it does stretch a bit, particularly the first few times your feet get hot and sweaty, but overall I've not had any problems with them becoming baggy. The tongue is leather with a synthetic padding on the inside that protects the top of you foot nicely when you pull the laces tight or shove your foot sideways in a big crack!

The construction of the Engage is 'old school'. There is no wraparound last or fancy midfoot support. It's just a flat full-length sole with a bit of tension rubber that joins the heel to the arch of the foot. Don't get me wrong, this is a tried and tested way of making rock shoes and it's worked for many years. But there isn't much refinement in the Engage. It does the job, but I do think there are some improvements that could be made here.

Sole: 

When it comes to stiffness Unparallel says these are a medium-stiff shoes, but I personally think the Engage is at the soft end of the spectrum. I don't see this as a negative as these shoe work well on less edgey rock types like grit or sandstone, and are good down at the climbing wall, but the softer midsole is something to be aware of if you want the support on more edgy rock types or the midfoot stability for long mountain days.

When it comes to rubber Unparallel make some of the best stuff around, and the 4.2mm RH rubber on the Engage is no exception. The RH is a more durable compound and fits well with the intended use of the Engage. What these shoes lack in their construction is partly made up by the rubber's quality and stickiness. The 4.2mm thick rubber also helps with the longevity and durability of the sole.

Fit: 

The Engage lace is a medium to narrow width, with a pretty regular volume. Being fully laced, this shoe will adapt to lots of different foot types and you can reduce the volume. However, if you have a wide foot you may struggle. As ever with footwear, try before you buy.

Summary: 

These shoes do feel more 'old school' than some of the equivalents from other brands, but I think they will work for people that have been used to a more traditionally constructed climbing shoe and particularly those who have fond memories of less techy FiveTen shoes from a decade or so ago.

These shoes are best suited to low to mid-grade climbing both at the climbing wall and the crag, but there is some extra performance in the toe box if you pull the laces up tight. For more relaxed sessions or long easy days out, I've got on well with them.