UKC

Lakes Sport & Slate - A Different Angle on Lake District Rock Gear News

© FRCC / Wired Guides

The Lake District is considered to be a bedrock of traditional rock climbing, as detailed in the rock climbing guide LAKE DISTRICT ROCK, published jointly FRCC GUIDES and WIRED GUIDES.

The acceptance of sports climbing in the Lakes has been a long and often contentious journey. Slowly bolts appeared on routes sometimes individually like on Android at Chapel Head Scar, or routes were equipped in a way that was described as "sporting". Today most climbers accept that well-equipped "friendly" mode sport venues are the norm.

In the South Lakes the crags of Chapel Head Scar, Scout Scar, Humphrey Head and Millside Scar have seen much development over the years and now have a wide spread of routes.. They are worthwhile destinations on their own as well as being useful should the weather in the Lakes be unfavourable.

The slate quarries near Coniston came to prominence in the early 1980's with the discovery, by climbers, of Hodge Close – the big hole in the ground – with many excellent routes climbed here and in other nearby quarries. Some of these routes are now bolted, but the full trad-slatefest is still on offer for you to savour!

Other crags have been developed in Cumbria on a mixture of rock types: the sandstone of St. Bees by the sea on the west coast and Coudy Rocks, in the Eden Valley.

In the early 1990's the sprawling micro-granite Bramcrag Quarry, near Thirlmere, attracted attention for a short while. Interest was rekindled in 2009 by Colin Downer who set to with his pals to transform the quarry. The 200 or so mid-grade routes here are described in LAKES SPORT & SLATE and Bramcrag Quarry has become the most popular sport crag in the District.

Dry Tooling has gained popularity and the development of The Works and Bakestone Quarry has provided a testing venue for this particular art.

Lancashire is renowned for its many gritstone quarries and the limestone crags around Silverdale. Visible from the M6,Warton Main Quarry has a long-standing bolted section. A recent agreement means that improvements will be made to lines with fixed gear in the Main Quarry extending the scope of the sport climbing here.

In 2007 the Cumbria Bolt Fund (CBF) was set up to replace old bolts and a team is now involved with rebolting, bolting of new routes and also retro-bolting existing routes. LAKES SPORT & SLATE has re-ignited interest in new development, with a dozen new popular-grade lines at Scout Scar and a complete makeover of the forgotten Runestone Quarry. In parallel with the new guidebook the CBF website will be the place to find out about the state of the bolts on all the routes in Cumbria as well as new routes.

LAKES SPORT & SLATE includes an interesting mix of climbing styles on four distinctive rock types- well worth acquiring and having on your bookshelf!


For more information FRCC



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