Dorset Bouldering - page 3

Battleship Edge is one of the most popular sport
climbing venues in Dorset. Nestling beneath,
somewhat unnoticed, is a collection of large
boulders home to close to 110 boulder problems.
With reasonably easy access, quality rock, and
good climbing across the grades, Battleship Beach
deserves far more attention. Landings are rocky and
sometimes uneven, so bouldering mats are essential
- in fact the more the better if you are going to push
your grade.
Conditions
The area is extremely pleasant on a calm sunny day.
Humidity lingers on overcast days and sunshine is
necessary to dry boulders submerged at high tide.
Approach 
Also see map on page 78
Following a huge landslip in 2014 the Battleship
Edge approach is no longer possible. Instead the
southern approach above the Veranda Cliff must be
used. Drive through Weston to a small roundabout
and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the
second traffic calming installation. Follow a wide
track behind houses and go right at the crossroads.
Follow the track, past farm buildings, to the cliff-top
path. At the cliff edge bare slightly left to a grassy
gully. Descend this with care to a terrace above
the Veranda Cliff. Follow this north (right looking
out) towards the distinctive and massive Battleship
Block. Immediately before Battleship Block follow an
indistinct path seaward. A flat grassy area is reached
just before the final drop onto the beach.
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Rip Croft
Shops
Farm
building
Grassy
gully
81
Battleship Beach
About 500m
Weston
Southwell
GPS 
50.534080
 -2.449243
Battleship Beach
W.Weares
Black. Fort
Black. Beach
Battle. Beach
Coast. Beach
Pulpit Rock
Obelisk
Red Crane
Broad Ope
Longstone
Neddyfields
Southwell
New Cuttings
Cuttings BF
Lulworth
St. Aldhelms
Dancing L.
Promenade
Peveril Point
Agglestone
Blacknor Beach
p.60
scan for
map
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