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Last updated on 19/Sep/2016

Overview

Aleksandr Klenov - climbing instructor, international route setter and coach.

Was born in Kazakhstan
In 1980-1985 education in the Ural Polytechnical Institute

Sport tourism:
From 1981 till 1985 was a head of faculty Mount tourist club

Rock-climbing:
Since 1984 is a member of Sverdlovsk area on rock-climbing team.
Till now keep 8B level in free climbing

The trainer:
In 1984 has finish school of rock-climbing coaches.
More than 10 years worked as the rock-climbing highest category trainer in the Ekaterinburgs Olympic reserve mountain school
In 2008-2009 head coach trainer of the national rock-climbing team in Kazakhstan.

Mountaineering:
Has started mountaineering in 1986 in SKA 17 (Ural military sport club).
Became the master of mountaineering sport in 1991
The international master of sport since November 1995.
The deserved master of sports since 2003

Participation in the championships of the USSR:
1 place - 2 times
2 place - 1 time
Participation in Russian championships
1 place - 6 times
2 place - 4 times
3 place - 2 times
The many time champion and the prize-winner of Army championships .

Twice was the nominee of the international award "Gold ice axe".
The owner of the Russian award «Gold edelweiss» for the best ascension of year
Has many ascens of the highest difficulty category, including new routes.
Several years is number one in Russian national team of a technical class and in the rating of the best Russian climbers.

Route setter:
International route setter since 1995
Worked as route setter on:
World Cup in Moscow, 1995,
The youth World championship in Moscow,
World Cup in Ekaterinburg, 1996.
The youth championship of Asia (Almaty), 2009

Chief forrunner:
Youth climbing Cup of Europe in Apatity, 2000,
Youth climbing Cup of Europe in Bulgaria, 2002.
The youth World championship in Bulgaria 2003
The youth European championship in Kaliningrad 2009

Was a lider of russian national route setters school
Was a lider of international route setters seminars on a natural rocks in Russia, Macedonia, Kazakhstan, bolting a lot of sports routes in different areas in the world.

Public work:
Since 2004 is the representative of Russia and Kazakhstan in UIAA Youth Commission
Since 2004 is initiator and the head of the program «Rocks For Everybody» and the international rock festivals “On-sight Marathon”
Since 2012 living in Macedonia. The leader of the sports club "Klisura". One of the active organizers of International Outdoor Festivals in Demir Kapija. The main route-setter in area.

Some of best ascents:
2013: Roraima wall (Venezuella)
2007: first ascent on unclimbing wall Shingu Charpa (Pakistan)
2005: free climbing ascents on the Angels waterfall wall (Venezuela)
2002: new route on the wall of Grate Sail Peak (Canada, Buffin Island)
2001: winter ascent difficulties’ route in Spain on the peak Naranho De Bulnes
Summer 2001: attempt of ascent to west wall of Latok-III. The expedition has been interrupted because of destruction one of the participant near the top.
Summer 2000: New route up to Spantik peak. Participant of International "Golden Peak-2000" expedition
February 2000: new route in party with Alexander Klenov up to Petit Dru - "Dream of summer".
May 1999: New route on the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6905 m)
February 1999: new route on Grand Capucin in party - "Russian winter".
1998: Petit Dru, N.Face, in party; Grand Jorass, N. Face.new variant, 6A in party.
1997: Aksu, first climb on N.Face 6B, not repeated.
1996: Aksu, first climb on the diretissima of the N.Face pillar 6A (?!!!), not repeated.
1995: Petit Dru, NW Face, American diretissima in party.
1994: Two 5B on "3850", two 5B on Asan, 6B on Slesova and 6B on "4810" for 15 days.
1993: Slesova, first climb on NW Face 6B, not repeated; "4810" first climb on E Face. 6B.
1992: first climb on peak "Steep Wall" in Archa-Kanysh, 5B; Sauk-Dzayliau E. 6A; Sauk-Dzayliau C., first ascent, 6A, not repeated.
1991: Asan, 6B; Slesova, 6B; Block, 6A; Admiralteets, 6A.
1990: Asan, 6A in party; Asan, 6B in party; "4810", 6B.
1988: First climb on peak Block E, 5B; peak
More information http://www.campingmacedonia.com/about-us

1989: Kyzylbash, 6A in party; Asan, 6A in party; peak 26 Bakinskikh kommisarov (6834 m) on S. Face, 6B.

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