16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left-hand arete of the central cave to ledges, then the thin crack (poor small wires) to a bolder exit. Finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Mithen 1976

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s

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UserDateNotes
lithos 14 May Show βeta
βeta: number 2 superlight is bomber high in the crack by crux, 4 offset at bottom of crack and other small wires in the middle
 
Show beta
βeta: number 2 superlight is bomber high in the crack by crux, 4 offset at bottom of crack and other small wires in the middle
Fiend 24 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like the vote distinctly place this between HVS and E1...hmmm... Quite a tricky little number. There is one great wire placement where you need it, thankfully, as the move to get past it is pretty poky. Not to be sniffed at.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like the vote distinctly place this between HVS and E1...hmmm... Quite a tricky little number. There is one great wire placement where you need it, thankfully, as the move to get past it is pretty poky. Not to be sniffed at.
Jus 6 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Needs a reachy symbol... HVS 5b if you can reach the crucial holds. Dodgy gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs a reachy symbol... HVS 5b if you can reach the crucial holds. Dodgy gear.
Iggy_B 21 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Gear in the crack is...interesting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gear in the crack is...interesting.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
martinbettridge06 1 Jun Lead O/S
Ian Saxton 1 Jun 2nd
Puma 14 May 2nd
with lithos
with lithos
lithos 14 May Lead good climbing, I found the move hard to figure out but not too bad to do. I slipped off(fell) when downclimbing for a rethink which is v.annoying. Above crack micro cams help but the climbing is much easier
with Puma
good climbing, I found the move hard to figure out but not too bad to do. I slipped off(fell) when downclimbing for a rethink which is v.annoying. Above crack micro cams help but the climbing is much easier
with Puma
althesin 20 Apr TR O/S
with Pet Z L Shunt
with Pet Z L Shunt
Hidden 30 Mar 2nd rpt
Sam W 30 Mar 2nd
with ebdon
with ebdon
Pero 26 Sep, 2018 TR
pie_eater_pete 1 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 19 Jun, 2018 2nd
andrzej kierzek 26 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mailys, tarasanthi
with Mailys, tarasanthi
mike8331 6 May, 2018 -
Hidden 6 May, 2018 TR
dewiturton 28 Aug, 2017 2nd
with keitht
with keitht
keitht 28 Aug, 2017 Lead
olllie26 20 Jul, 2017 2nd
The Reaper 20 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 19 Apr, 2017 2nd
Alex Hyde 2 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Slipped while moving though the crux, fortunately had a solid wire placement so the fall wasn't so bad, but great climb
with Sam
Slipped while moving though the crux, fortunately had a solid wire placement so the fall wasn't so bad, but great climb
with Sam
Droyd 9 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Soft if you have micros (which I did), probably terrifying if not
with Theo
Soft if you have micros (which I did), probably terrifying if not
with Theo
mat cooper ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Markheighton 25 Nov, 2016 2nd
Alex_Derbyshire 25 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
Hannes B 2 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Aidan
with Aidan
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf
Pete Wimbush 15 May, 2016 Lead
with Richard Williams
with Richard Williams
PeteWilson 6 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with Hillson
with Hillson
Hillson 6 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Si ?Oct, 2015 Lead
Hidden 13 Sep, 2015 2nd β
Hidden 4 Sep, 2015 Lead β
No? Yes! 4 Sep, 2015 Lead Very hard to protect crux ! Matt then led it
Very hard to protect crux ! Matt then led it
augustus trout 28 Aug, 2015 2nd
with Dave H
with Dave H
Tim_C7 19 Jul, 2015 Lead Relearning how to climb grit, good fun
with Luke Williams
Relearning how to climb grit, good fun
with Luke Williams
London Luke 19 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Tim_C7
with Tim_C7
DMC 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 30 May, 2015 2nd Dan got 2 small normal wires in the crack. Both looked sound when I took them out. Micro's not required.
with DMC
Dan got 2 small normal wires in the crack. Both looked sound when I took them out. Micro's not required.
with DMC
AJ007 20 May, 2015 Solo O/S
TobyA 17 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
with Tom R
with Tom R
ralphio 8 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Got three micro's in the crack. Only one of them would have held a fall. Crux move felt soft 5b.
Got three micro's in the crack. Only one of them would have held a fall. Crux move felt soft 5b.
Hidden 7 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
Canyak ??, 2015 -
Hidden 2 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
cookie-doo 2 Dec, 2014 2nd
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 2nd
Paul ablitt 12 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Gudge 2 Oct, 2014 2nd rpt
with Lenny
with Lenny
Lenny 2 Oct, 2014 Lead G/U Ground Up
with Gudge
Ground Up
with Gudge
Hardcore Pat 4 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
with Chris Vanderz
ashtond6 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
Hidden 6 Jun, 2014 -
dannyboy83 6 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S
Gudge 14 May, 2014 Lead O/S Solid enough wires (micros help) - laced crack. Nice route!
Solid enough wires (micros help) - laced crack. Nice route!
sianais 5 May, 2014 2nd
climberchristy 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S More like top end of HVS if you've got microcams or micro wires. Nice little climb.
with bencole
More like top end of HVS if you've got microcams or micro wires. Nice little climb.
with bencole
Haydn Jones 28 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with neil jobling
with neil jobling
bencole ?Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2014 2nd
the power 3 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 3 Mar, 2014 Lead
with phill ukc
with phill ukc
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Ben Bransby ??, 2014 Lead
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
Hidden 10 Jul, 2013 -
cobweb 15 Sep, 2012 Lead rpt i seconded it previously when it was very hot , much easier when a bit cooler
i seconded it previously when it was very hot , much easier when a bit cooler
Hidden 29 Jul, 2012 Lead
max_chan 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Nice route. HVS in BMC guide, which seems correct.
with Steve Carty
Nice route. HVS in BMC guide, which seems correct.
with Steve Carty
will_benfold 10 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt
with Caroline Culwick
with Caroline Culwick
Hidden 10 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
Helen Gibson 22 May, 2012 Lead
Hidden 22 May, 2012 Lead
chrisbussell 22 May, 2012 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
with Tim O'Neill
nigel pearson 20 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with Robin
with Robin
Hidden 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2012 Lead
cem 1 Apr, 2012 Lead rpt
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 1 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
with cem
with cem
Steve Waters, Mynydd 31 Mar, 2012 2nd Praise be for Wild Country Superlight Rocks !!! 3 bombers in the crack. The move up above to the break was thin. My foot skittered but I managed to slap and hold on.
Praise be for Wild Country Superlight Rocks !!! 3 bombers in the crack. The move up above to the break was thin. My foot skittered but I managed to slap and hold on.
mtempest 31 Mar, 2012 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
will_benfold 25 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
mes32 25 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
theotherpetehill 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Mark Sheridan
with Mark Sheridan
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
mark20 19 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
bigdrew 19 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S
with mark20
with mark20
Hidden 18 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 18 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Si 2
with Si 2
Hidden 9 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 19 Jun, 2011 2nd rpt
Jim Slater 19 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with loundsy
with loundsy
AMarchant 28 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 26 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Had some bomber micro wires so soft E1, must feel bold and certainly E1 without. Nice climb :)
with Becky E
Had some bomber micro wires so soft E1, must feel bold and certainly E1 without. Nice climb :)
with Becky E
Becky E 26 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
nadeem 18 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with Sophie Miller
with Sophie Miller
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Oliver Houston 24 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt
Martin Haworth 17 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt You can get a good wire in before the crux, but it is only a micro.
with Pete Harris
You can get a good wire in before the crux, but it is only a micro.
with Pete Harris
Tony Holdsworth 13 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S A mean difficult to protect route.
with Peter Harris
A mean difficult to protect route.
with Peter Harris
eduardo 5 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S OK-ish nuts in the crack, easy once reached the break above.
OK-ish nuts in the crack, easy once reached the break above.
Brian Rodgers 5 Sep, 2010 2nd
with eduardo
with eduardo
Oliver Houston 11 Jul, 2010 Lead dog slipped off sweaty slopers... onto a very nice brass offset :)
slipped off sweaty slopers... onto a very nice brass offset :)
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Tez29 31 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S
SarahW1979 30 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Pilch 7 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Went for it after a bit of hesitation.
with Graham
Went for it after a bit of hesitation.
with Graham
buxtoncoffeelover ??, 2010 2nd
Hidden ?Dec, 2009 -
Boy ?Nov, 2009 -
with Fiona Fullwood
with Fiona Fullwood
thomasadixon 18 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S
with Lisaaa, andy
with Lisaaa, andy
BeccaSnowden 18 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S V good route
with Andy
V good route
with Andy
Neil McA 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with Andrew James, martin cooper
with Andrew James, martin cooper
sadams 10 Oct, 2009 Lead
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
perfectlynormalbeast 4 Oct, 2009 2nd dog One stupid fall, the key move is actually quite easy. Trying to speed up before the rain came down.
with Rich Lines
One stupid fall, the key move is actually quite easy. Trying to speed up before the rain came down.
with Rich Lines
Dom Whillans 20 Sep, 2009 -
with a.crook
with a.crook
RCrockford 19 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Felt like HVS - good gear where it counts, crux move went fairly easily (being tall helps).
with Diggler
Felt like HVS - good gear where it counts, crux move went fairly easily (being tall helps).
with Diggler
Diggler 19 Sep, 2009 2nd
Hidden 19 Aug, 2009 Lead
highrepute 8 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Ben Sidsaph 25 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
with Guy Buckingham
blahblahblah 25 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dovydas Urbanas
with Dovydas Urbanas
rd2904 15 Apr, 2009 Lead
with Darren Southcott
with Darren Southcott
Ross Davidson 15 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dazzlin
with Dazzlin
cem 29 Mar, 2009 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Si dH 21 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S Thought this was HVS, please to see it gets E1 in rockfax but dont really agree. Micro wires help though.
with Neil Furniss
Thought this was HVS, please to see it gets E1 in rockfax but dont really agree. Micro wires help though.
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 21 Feb, 2009 2nd O/S
simonp ?Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
reg_measures ??, 2009 2nd
with neil and claire
with neil and claire
Hidden 9 Dec, 2008 Solo O/S
PennyL 12 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Nick Willis
with Nick Willis
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 25 Sep, 2008 2nd
with MarkWesterman
with MarkWesterman
Hidden 25 Sep, 2008 Lead rpt
darren1 13 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Andrew Doney
with Andrew Doney
Mark_RMC 24 Aug, 2008 Lead After a month without climbing, I decided to warm up on an E1, becuase it looked like a great line. It was. A delicate crux section above a "bomber microwire!" . Reaaly pleased with the lead.
with Alex Ford
After a month without climbing, I decided to warm up on an E1, becuase it looked like a great line. It was. A delicate crux section above a "bomber microwire!" . Reaaly pleased with the lead.
with Alex Ford
SR1970 ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
TomHaigh 15 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
adam carless 29 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S Definitely not fun for the short - a couple of pretty sketchy moves needed before the "smile" comes within reach. Good enough gear though if you don't mind tiny nuts.
Definitely not fun for the short - a couple of pretty sketchy moves needed before the "smile" comes within reach. Good enough gear though if you don't mind tiny nuts.
Hidden 29 Jun, 2008 Lead
feilx 11 Jun, 2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 21 May, 2008 TR
Stig 18 May, 2008 Lead rpt Hard for the short and then more like E1.
with Jonathan Teale
Hard for the short and then more like E1.
with Jonathan Teale
Hidden 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Rob84 10 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Dave Ripley
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 5 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 17 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 17 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
Ian Parnell ?Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden 12 Oct, 2007 Lead rpt
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
jimdanson 27 Sep, 2007 2nd
with Martin Ibbotson
with Martin Ibbotson
frost 9 Sep, 2007 -
NeilGriffiths 9 Sep, 2007 -
with frost
with frost
Mattyk 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S One move at the top really.. plenty of gear in crack, none of it bomber but maybe one piece would hold?
One move at the top really.. plenty of gear in crack, none of it bomber but maybe one piece would hold?
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 Lead
Hidden 3 Jun, 2007 2nd rpt
Hidden 24 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 21 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
dangerousoldfool ?Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with WimC
with WimC
Hidden 16 Jul, 2006 TR
Hidden 16 Apr, 2006 Lead
Owen W-G 9 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S Did this as a less scary-looking alternative to the main target of Counts Buttress. Found the crux moves pretty hard and the highest nuts not quite as good as I'd have liked them to be. Surprised to see it given HVS in some guides.
Did this as a less scary-looking alternative to the main target of Counts Buttress. Found the crux moves pretty hard and the highest nuts not quite as good as I'd have liked them to be. Surprised to see it given HVS in some guides.
Jack Symmons ?Feb, 2006 Lead Bloody pumpy
with Chris T
Bloody pumpy
with Chris T
ArnaudG ??, 2006 -
Hidden ?Dec, 2005 2nd
Hidden ?Dec, 2005 2nd
steveb2006 13 Nov, 2005 Lead
with Pete Carter
with Pete Carter
Hidden 29 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S
david morse ?Oct, 2005 2nd
with chris todd
with chris todd
Hidden 20 Mar, 2005 2nd
Gus 1 Nov, 2004 Lead
Smelly Fox ?Oct, 2004 2nd
with Gus
with Gus
Stig 16 Jul, 2004 2nd O/S I backed off this on the day.
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
I backed off this on the day.
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ken Taylor 1 Jun, 2004 TR
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
Ben1983 ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 5 Oct, 2003 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20 Sep, 2003 Solo O/S
andybirtwistle 20 Sep, 2003 -
Hidden 23 Jun, 2003 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Feb, 2003 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall ?Aug, 2002 Lead Not sure about the date
Not sure about the date
Trobbo 20 Apr, 2002 2nd
with mike sissons
with mike sissons
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Strong Steve 13 May, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2001 Lead
Hidden 13 May, 2001 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2001 2nd
Hidden 9 Sep, 2000 TR
The Reaper 13 May, 2000 2nd rpt
Hidden 13 Jun, 1999 Lead
Coel Hellier ??, 1999 Lead
Mick King 21 Jun, 1998 2nd
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
Hidden 9 May, 1998 2nd
Roget 26 Jan, 1997 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead
Podling 5 May, 1996 Lead
The Reaper 23 Jun, 1994 TR O/S Shunt
Shunt
crater 29 May, 1994 TR
Martin Bennett 3 Oct, 1993 -
with MT, Simno
with MT, Simno
Stoney Boy 28 Apr, 1991 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
with Colin Hughes
Chris Ellis 24 Mar, 1991 2nd
with Andy Barker
with Andy Barker
Hidden 27 May, 1990 2nd
Hidden 3 Aug, 1989 Lead
Andy Say 1 Jan, 1989 Solo
goi.ashmore 5 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
with Dave Forster
craig h 22 May, 1988 Lead O/S My first route at Stanage
with Charlie and Matt (Stalybridge)
My first route at Stanage
with Charlie and Matt (Stalybridge)
BRUCESTRAC ??, 1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Hidden 22 Aug, 1985 2nd
ajtay ??, 1985 Lead
mark-abz 15 Nov, 1984 TR
Rick51 4 Jul, 1984 2nd
Hidden 25 Feb, 1984 Lead
andy gittins ??, 1982 -
Hidden 24 May, 1981 2nd
Hidden 15 May, 1965 Solo
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 52
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set