The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the tricky, thin crack to a recess (and a cop-out lower-off). Battle up the awkward, leaning chimney to a ledge and possible stance on the left.
2) 4c, 20m. Escape easily to the left, or take the scruffy ramp rightwards to the summit ridge. Awkward descent from here. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts just right of "Claw Left-Hand".
1) 5a, 21m. The thin crack (tricky) to the chimney. Climb this to a stance on the left.
2) 4c, 20m. Finish as for "Claw Left-Hand".
(First Free Ascent J.Street 1967)
A.Critchlow, R.Hassal (1pt) 1965.
Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Laddow)