UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

41m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the tricky, thin crack to a recess (and a cop-out lower-off). Battle up the awkward, leaning chimney to a ledge and possible stance on the left.
2) 4c, 20m. Escape easily to the left, or take the scruffy ramp rightwards to the summit ridge. Awkward descent from here. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts just right of "Claw Left-Hand".
1) 5a, 21m. The thin crack (tricky) to the chimney. Climb this to a stance on the left.
2) 4c, 20m. Finish as for "Claw Left-Hand".
(First Free Ascent J.Street 1967)

A.Critchlow, R.Hassal (1pt) 1965.

Ticklists

Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

65 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 26 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 10
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cave Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Laddow)

Loading Notifications...