The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Climb the thin and fierce crack, then continue through the right-hand side of the black bulges above. Follow the groove to reach the diagonal break of The Claw and finish direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Takes the fierce thin crack 4m to the right of "The Claw".
Follow the crack through the right hand side of the overhangs. A groove is then followed to the diagonal break of "The Claw". Finish direct.
(There are two variant starts - 5c, the wall 2m right of "The Claw"; 5b, a crack left of Bill Baley - variously by D.Jones, J.Codling and N.Longland)
D.Jones, R.Cope 1979.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)