Rockfax Description
The soaring white arete to the right of the corner of Last Exit to Torquay is a stunning line. Start as for Gates of Eden.
1) 4c, 20m. As for pitch 1 of Gates of Eden.
2) 6a, 27m. Move up the corner until level with a small overhanging groove on the right wall. Pull across the groove, past an old peg in the groove and a good peg in the wall to the right, and climb steeply up the slim overhanging groove above to a block on the arete. Move up the right-hand side of the arete for 5m and transfer to the left side where it steepens, peg out left. Fingery moves up the wall on crimps and pockets access the final wall that is taken rightwards to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Dexter JW 17 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block at the top of the headwall removed with a few tactical kicks from Will from above. A jug is gone but it won’t kill you or your second now. Other options still available. Still bold through the headwall. Large set of micros probably wouldn't go amiss!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose block at the top of the headwall removed with a few tactical kicks from Will from above. A jug is gone but it won’t kill you or your second now. Other options still available. Still bold through the headwall. Large set of micros probably wouldn't go amiss!
Ed Babs 5 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Flake block on the headwall near the top is worryingly loose. Take care with it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Flake block on the headwall near the top is worryingly loose. Take care with it.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Will Mortimer 16 Jun, 2019 2nd
Dexter JW 15 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S First E4 lead. Meaty little number. Few ups and downs at the top before committing. Hard sequence reading. Bold top.
First E4 lead. Meaty little number. Few ups and downs at the top before committing. Hard sequence reading. Bold top.
Sophie Nunn 5 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S P1
with Ed Babs
P1
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 5 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S P2. Hard initial wall, so I prevaricated for an age at the ledge on the arête whilst scoping out the head wall. Fortunately it paid off with a lovely sequence of moves to the top.
P2. Hard initial wall, so I prevaricated for an age at the ledge on the arête whilst scoping out the head wall. Fortunately it paid off with a lovely sequence of moves to the top.
NinaR 21 Apr, 2019 2nd dog Hard
Hard
JendeHoxar 21 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 21 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Brian H 2 Apr, 2017 2nd One fall when I pulled a hold off on the lower part of the arete. The top section was hard to read - needed beta from Ed.
with Ed
One fall when I pulled a hold off on the lower part of the arete. The top section was hard to read - needed beta from Ed.
with Ed
burto 14 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with rozzy
with rozzy
Luxulyan 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Abi
with Abi
aiyer 14 May, 2016 2nd dog Lots of rests! God only knows how Rich lead it!!
Lots of rests! God only knows how Rich lead it!!
Hidden 15 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
ferdia 7 May, 2015 Lead G/U An 'experience'. Very good climbing, hard to read in lower section. Same with the gear, which appears but is pumpy to place. Got boxed and fell off below midpoint ledge on first go, lowered back to belay ledge and then just managed to pull it out the bag on yo-yo attempt, runout from the last peg at the top!
An 'experience'. Very good climbing, hard to read in lower section. Same with the gear, which appears but is pumpy to place. Got boxed and fell off below midpoint ledge on first go, lowered back to belay ledge and then just managed to pull it out the bag on yo-yo attempt, runout from the last peg at the top!
Andy Moles 7 May, 2015 2nd
with ferdia
with ferdia
andy gittins ??, 2014 2nd
with Mark Carnall
with Mark Carnall
Russell Blackaller 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd dog Led pitch one. Luke led the second. Got to the head wall clean but couldn't see holds due to the sun shining straight in to my eyes. Bad excuse i know. Had to weight the rope twice. Fantastic line but terrible exit at the top. Got stung all over!
Led pitch one. Luke led the second. Got to the head wall clean but couldn't see holds due to the sun shining straight in to my eyes. Bad excuse i know. Had to weight the rope twice. Fantastic line but terrible exit at the top. Got stung all over!
kingholmesy ??, 2013 AltLd O/S Led the top pitch. The rest around the right of the arete detracts from the route slightly, but the moves up the headwall are excellent.
Led the top pitch. The rest around the right of the arete detracts from the route slightly, but the moves up the headwall are excellent.
Hidden ??, 2012 -
John Mcshea 28 Sep, 2011 2nd rpt
Hidden 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
jameshiggins 23 May, 2011 Lead dnf Jumped on this straight away after a frustratingly long journey south. Flash pump and a very lame attempt. Sustained.
with Neil Adams
Jumped on this straight away after a frustratingly long journey south. Flash pump and a very lame attempt. Sustained.
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 23 May, 2011 2nd dog Too hard for me!
Too hard for me!
Hidden 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 24 Jul, 2010 2nd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Toby Dunn 17 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S tricky, pumpy and runout
with Alex Hughes
tricky, pumpy and runout
with Alex Hughes
Dave Searle 15 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S briliant climbing but a bit loose in some places.
with sim
briliant climbing but a bit loose in some places.
with sim
Tim M ??, 2000 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 1997 Lead RP
Nick Biven ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Rich Whitwell
with Rich Whitwell
FATBOYFAT ??, 1994 2nd dog Ridiculously cold on the belay ...
with Dave Henderson
Ridiculously cold on the belay ...
with Dave Henderson
Hidden 26 Jun, 1993 2nd
Hidden 26 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead β
ecowaller ??, 1990 -
Hidden 8 Oct, 1986 2nd O/S
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set